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Made in us
Krazed Killa Kan






State of Jefferson

Folks,
Having some issues getting cyanoacrylate to stick to the FW resin. Ive used some GS with good results, but I think it just may be that mold release stuff that needs to be washed or is it molecular and therefore why bather (see what I did there?)

Lastly, one of the models is incomplete. Should I call or email FW for fastest results?
[Thumb - 20160710_121859.jpg]

   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

Yes, you absolutely should contact FW about missing parts.

Did you wash the parts before gluing? Some often need a light sanding also.

(Some FW models could just benefit from a good overnight soak in MEK just to be sure, though ... yeah, I'm still salty about that all-resin abortion that was the valkyrie)

I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.

That is not dead which can eternal lie ...

... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut




Depending on the mold quality you can really have issues with fw as well. I recently got a fw vulture and it was in pretty bad shape with parts not fitting together well and a loss of details or incomplete details in some areas. It was almost counterfeit quality however I heard the vulture is getting its mold redone so unless I wanted to wait a few months for a new model I'm just going to have to work out the model I do have with greenstuff and some elbow grease.
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Nottinghamshire

Email with your order number and photo of the model. They should get back to you inside a couple of days.


[ Mordian 183rd ] - an ongoing Imperial Guard story with crayon drawings!
[ "I can't believe it's not Dakka!" ] - a buttery painting and crafting blog
 
   
Made in us
Krazed Killa Kan






State of Jefferson

Thanks buttery.
   
Made in gb
Fireknife Shas'el





Leicester

gungo wrote:
Depending on the mold quality you can really have issues with fw as well. I recently got a fw vulture and it was in pretty bad shape with parts not fitting together well and a loss of details or incomplete details in some areas. It was almost counterfeit quality however I heard the vulture is getting its mold redone so unless I wanted to wait a few months for a new model I'm just going to have to work out the model I do have with greenstuff and some elbow grease.


I highly recommend you contact FW anyway; they're likely to send you a new kit when they have one available, but don't normally require you to return the old one. With a bit of patience and elbow grease you can probably end up with two for the price of one.

DS:80+S+GM+B+I+Pw40k08D+A++WD355R+T(M)DM+
 Zed wrote:
*All statements reflect my opinion at this moment. if some sort of pretty new model gets released (or if I change my mind at random) I reserve the right to jump on any bandwagon at will.
 
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka






Make sure you wash the resin, as many people have mentioned.

Two other thigns: it's important to pin pieces which are heavy, that don't have a large contact area to glue. Remember that resin pieces aren't generally hollow and weigh a lot more than plastic. Also, it's important to hold the two pieces stationary while the superglue sets, AND that thicker/stronger superglue takes longer to set. Usually, a vice, or some other apparatus to hold the model together or at least the pieces stationary, is very helpful.
   
 
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