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Made in us
Hungry Little Ripper





Whidby Island Washington

I have painted a few models now and with all of them the only thing I have done to the bases are a few touch-ups to get rid of off color paint marks.

How do you guys normally finish the bases?

Is having just an unaltered black base acceptable?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/09/19 23:09:11


Hello. From. The. Other. Side. 
   
Made in us
The Marine Standing Behind Marneus Calgar





Upstate, New York

For many years I just cleaned up my paint slop with black paint and just played like that. While not ideal, and not formally finished according to some, it at least looked uniform and tidy. And no worries about style clashing with the battlefield.

These days I mostly flock, with some tufts and rocks tossed in. Arctic for my Ultras, Grass for my Eldar. With scouts swapped (infiltrating the enemy position!)

It’s not hard to do and gives the army a bit more character. And for armies like Eldar, where you might not have as much unifying color on the minis, it helps tie them all together.

Edit:

Here is a write up I did for my process.
Snow bases:
Paint rim black, top white.
Glue tutfs/rocks to base.
Mix PVA and water at about a 1:1 ratio.
Add flock to form a paste, not too thin, so it can fill gaps and retain some shape.
Apply paste to base (with offset spatula/knife). Add a little dab to tops of rocks, or other places snow might collect.
While still wet, swish base though dish of loose flock to coat.
Shake excess flock off, wipe rim clear.

Grass bases:
Prep base (cover slotta gaps with green stuff)
Paint rim black, top Goblin Green.
Glue rocks to base (not tufts).
Mix PVA and water at roughly a 1:1 ratio.
Paint top of base with glue mixture
Stick on tufts.
Swish through flock
Shake, wipe any excess of rim.
Plant wildflowers

Putting the tufts on after the glue helps keep them clean. I don’t mind a little snow getting stuck on the arctic grass, as that is more appropriate, but I don’t want to see the meadow grass with stuff stuck on it. Some might still happen, but putting them on after the glue minimizes it. What does get caught will eventually come off, as it’s not glued.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/09/19 19:10:18


   
Made in us
Hungry Little Ripper





Whidby Island Washington

Right on, those are really great ideas! I probably would have never figured it out. I will have to try these out.

Hello. From. The. Other. Side. 
   
Made in us
Librarian with Freaky Familiar






Black bases are fine.

Depends on the look im going for.

easiest and really good looking is to spread on some Armageddon dust, let that sit over knight, dry brush on Screaming skull, put some bushes on there, and paint the ring the squad color (Just for my sanity sake on the field.) and boom call it done.

To many unpainted models to count. 
   
Made in us
Hungry Little Ripper





Whidby Island Washington

I have heard about "color coding" squads/formations for easier identification. I should probably do that, I think it will help me out in the beginning.

Hello. From. The. Other. Side. 
   
Made in us
Sneaky Striking Scorpion





WA, USA

Hello!

Just so you can have a few other options to try, I also have a fun and relatively easy method for doing an orangey Martian sand base. I generally do a swampy snow base for my Eldar, but Nevelon's method will give you nice results much faster than mine.

Martian Sand

1) Prep Base
- Paint rim black (you don't have to paint the top, but you can if you want)
- Fill in slotta holes with greenstuff
- Greenstuff soft mounds or dunes or other details on larger bases

2) Prep Sand
- Add about equal parts PVA glue and paint (use cheaper acrylic from a big-name craft store - they have nice burnt sienna and umber tones that work great for this) to a small cup.
- Mix in fine grain sand until coated and batch has a gritty consistency that is spread-able but holds shape (if you want extra interest, use 2 colors of paint and do not mix to a consistent color)

3) Spread Sand
- Using a toothpick, popsicle stick, or sculpting knife (depending on base size/space), apply sand mix to base.
- Let dry (generally 24 hours will do the trick)

4) Optional Fluff
- add any large rocks, small bushes, or what-have-you at this point (unless you want it partially covered in sand - then add in step 1)
- If the sand is too mono-chrome, throw a Sienna or Brown wash over it (use a low-quality brush - pushing too hard may encourage a few grains of sand to come loose)
- If desired, seal base with watered down PVA after everything is dry

~ Craftworlders ~ Harlequins ~ Coterie of the Last Breath Corsairs ~ 
   
Made in gb
Steady Space Marine Vet Sergeant





United Kingdom

I have this blog bookmarked as a reference. It's a basic (base-ic?) basing tutorial, but what I really like is how the same method is painted 24 different times to show 24 different bases.

It's really great to just look at and see what the base will look like before you paint it.

   
Made in us
The Marine Standing Behind Marneus Calgar





Upstate, New York

On the topic of comparison pics, here are two links I found helpful when determining how to snow base:

http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2010/01/details-8-ways-to-base-with-snow.html
http://hakomike.blogspot.com.au/2014/08/snow-basing-materials-reference.html

   
Made in us
Hungry Little Ripper





Whidby Island Washington

These are great! Thank you guys for the references and replies!

Hello. From. The. Other. Side. 
   
Made in gb
Speedy Swiftclaw Biker





I have been going for snow bases which are very quick. I tend to do a batch at once and attach the models after.

Simple:
- Mix bicarbonate of soda, PVA and some cheap white acrylic paint in a pot.
- You can choose the consistency but I aim for something that won't run off the edge but will level out the bumps slightly.
- Apply to the top of the bases without the miniatures attached with a spatula/coffee stirrer/piece of sprue...
- Once dry clean up any splotches on the edge of the base with paint
- Pin the models to the base

More complicated (but worth the effort in my opinion):
- Superglue one or two small stones/gravel to the base
- Paint and drybrush highlight these stones
- Mix and apply snow as above but 'drift' some snow up and on top of the rocks
- Once the snow base has started to set and formed a skin, I push the feet of the model into the snow to make an impression. That makes it look like the feet are slightly sinking into the snow and disguises any gaps under the feet

   
Made in us
Hungry Little Ripper





Whidby Island Washington

!!! I must say imagining the little foot prints on the model base made me giggle a bit. That is quite genius!

Hello. From. The. Other. Side. 
   
Made in us
The Marine Standing Behind Marneus Calgar





Upstate, New York

If you use a thicker glue/flock/whatever mix you get the effect of standing in the snow as well. Just because when you layer it on, it comes up the boots a little bit.

Heh. Thinking about that, one of the things keeping me from building more marines is the lack of legs. Now I want to built one sunk to his mid-chest in a snow base.

I can hear him swearing into the vox-net now. “Quit laughing and give me a hand!"

   
Made in us
Librarian with Freaky Familiar






IMO to get the best snow effects you want to use secret weapons crushed glass, they have a video on how to do it.

But you need to wear gloves and a mask when applying it, it is glass and you dont want it on your skin or touching it until it drys, this is mostly for display quality models.

To many unpainted models to count. 
   
Made in us
Hungry Little Ripper





Whidby Island Washington

Nevelon That is a hilarious idea ^.^ I am picturing him with an arm posed up and his head tilted lol

Backspacehacker That does in fact look pretty epic. If my skill level ever gets close to display worthy I might try it!

Hello. From. The. Other. Side. 
   
Made in gb
Alluring Mounted Daemonette




Soviet UK

I make Rocky bases simply, get Vallejo grey pumice a huge tub is 6 pounds spread onto base into any shape you want.
While wet add a couple of rocks or actual small bits of slate.
When dry , undercoat
Paint dark grey but rocks a few shades lighter.
Put shade ink on.
Dry brush a few lighter shades of grey getting lighter on the brush strokes as you go.
Static grass if you can be bothered.

Also the new citadel gloss shades can be added at the end to simulate water or dampness, although it is dirty water not clean

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/09/22 06:40:12


For mother Soviet scotland oh and I like orcs  
   
 
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