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Made in us
Guarded Grey Knight Terminator






I've been trying to figure out a good way to do writing on purity seals and parchment, and came across micron pens. Does anyone else use these, and what size works for these?

"Glory in our suffering, because we know that suffering produces perseverance; perseverance, character; and character, hope. And hope does not disappoint"
-Paul of Tarsus

If my post seems goofy, assume I am posting from my phone and the autocorrect elf in my phone is drunk again 
   
Made in us
Contagious Dreadnought of Nurgle






I have done this before, I think in 0.3mm tip size. The ink turns out kind of glossy, but it looks OK after a matte varnish. If you can manage writing with a brush, I still believe it turns out better.

 
   
Made in us
Ship's Officer





Dallas, TX

I think I’ve only seen 1, 1 example so far of writing on parchment done right, the rest are just messy scribbles by illiterate children, you’re better off using decals, either pre existing ones or send your requirements to a decal maker. I’ve just leave mine blank, that’s one thing I haven’t got around to it doing it right for a passing grade.
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Beaumont, CA USA

It works OK. I prefer decals from Ginfritter like I used on my chaplain, but the micron pens work about as well as a small brush
[Thumb - S4200012_zpsil92n3tg.jpg]

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2017/12/22 22:13:42


~Kalamadea (aka ember)
My image gallery 
   
Made in us
Imperial Agent Provocateur




They're ok. I'd recommend 005 size, but it looks like they now also make an even smaller 003 which ought to be fine too.
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





I bought a set of micron pens to have a go at writing text. In the end I found a fine paint brush to be better.

Got myself a Raphael 4/0 (they make down to a 6/0 I believe but my local art store didn't have any in stock) and the trick is to use both flow improver and drying retarder. Flow improver lets the paint come off the brush easier and the drying retarder is because you have so little paint on the brush it'll end up drying between the palette and the model if you don't add something to slow the drying.

If you're trying to do actual text (like the "ZAEL" and "SCIPIO" in the pictures below) then I found it helpful to use oil paints, just because you can clean them off if you make a mistake. Don't thin the oils too much, they paint quite well (easier than acrylics) even when thick. But I know people who do better text than me using acrylics, so maybe the oils are just a bit of a crutch for me.

I spent a few hours with the micron pens, have a set with 0.3, 0.1, 0.05 and 0.03 and never got a result that I found either better nor easier than simply using the fine brush.

These were all done with a hairy brush...



This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/12/23 01:11:17


 
   
Made in us
Abel





Washington State

They work great! I also occasionally use them to fill in panel lines on larger models. Ancient Chinese Secret!

Just hit the area with a dullcoat when you are done as they do dry a bit glossy.

Kara Sloan shoots through Time and Design Space for a Negative Play Experience  
   
Made in us
Ancient Venerable Dreadnought




San Jose, CA

i just picked up the army painter psycho for this exact use. really interested in these pens if I can't get a good result from the brush.
   
Made in au
Regular Dakkanaut




Australia

I use one and I love it!
   
Made in us
The Marine Standing Behind Marneus Calgar





Upstate, New York

I use the 0.20mm one (005 on the cap) for all my black squiggle needs.




 Tamwulf wrote:
They work great! I also occasionally use them to fill in panel lines on larger models. Ancient Chinese Secret!

Just hit the area with a dullcoat when you are done as they do dry a bit glossy.


My Eldar grav tanks aprove this message (and I don’t mind the gloss)

   
Made in us
Utilizing Careful Highlighting





at the keyboard

Microns are great - I use the .005 one for most my small stuff.

All my checker patterns are done with them.

For writing and such, I've only done books really but the principles the same. You want to do more of a pointilism method - ie dotting, than you would with a brush. It also helps keep it from smearing.

Yes it's glossy when finished, but matte varnish or testor's dullcoate as mentioned take care of that.

The most important things I've found when using them is:

1. Allow plenty of time to dry before you try to paint over, or especially, varnish them. They can smear when wet.
2. Don't be too rough with them, you can take off paint if you're not careful.

Honestly tho, those two things aren't that hard and they're much easier than a brush.

   
 
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