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A little ink (Dark Tone over the Pig Iron, Strong Tone over the gold, Baal Red over the Kador Red)



Then some touching up with Morrow White where my brush has strayed or the ink has run. Then painting the base black and applying some sand.



Et voilà!

Next up for my Khador forces are the Battle Mechanics. These guys are pretty useful when running jack-heavy lists.

Started off with Army Painter Black undercoat



For the clothing portions, I used Vallejo Model Color Russian Uniform WWII (suitably Soviet, I feel)

Over the Russian Unform green, I applied a coat of GW Thrakka Green wash.



For all the metal, I used P3 Pig Iron.

Next up, for the leather base coat, I used P3 Bootstrap Leather.



For the flesh base coat, on went P3 Midlund Flesh

I highlighted the flesh with P3 Menoth White Hightlight

P3 Ironhull Grey was used as base coat for the fur collars

For the hair, I used P3 Greatcoat Grey



For the base, I used P3 Gun Corps Brown

Rushed through the last few steps and forgot to take stage by stage photos.
Oops...well, lesson learned.

I washed the base, leather, metal areas, fur, hair, and recesses in flesh with Army Painter Strong Tone.

For the lenses on the goggles I used P3 Cygnar Blue Base.

On the shoulders, I used Khador Red Base, washed with GW Baal Red.

Finally, applied a little white silicate to the base for the snow effect and...



There we have it

And now...for the Menoth Warjacks!

First up, the Repenter, which was undercoated with Army Painter white spray



Then, a coat of P3 Pig Iron here and there...

On goes some P3 Rhulic Gold and P3 Khador Red Base

What a difference some washes make! Army Painter Strong Tone on the gold parts, Dark Tone on the iron, and a little GW Baal Red for the Menoth emblem. Also painted the base flat black.

I really really like the Cygnar colours you've chosen. Especially Allister Caine who looks like a total badass (and I typically dislike Caine in almost all forms).

The Menoth I'm less fond of. I don't know that white would hold up as well under heavy wear and war, but I am quite taken with the Cygnar.

Falhurk wrote:
I really really like the Cygnar colours you've chosen. Especially Allister Caine who looks like a total badass (and I typically dislike Caine in almost all forms).

The Menoth I'm less fond of. I don't know that white would hold up as well under heavy wear and war, but I am quite taken with the Cygnar.

Thanks! I like the grungier side of things for the most part, and I agree with you about the Menites...but I sometimes a clean finish is a nice break. Maybe some unfortunate cleric type chap has the unfortunate job of scrubbing these things back to perfection and making sure the paint and gears are clear of muck, and the spatters and remains of unbelievers. Sacred machines or whatever. Besides...I do not foresee myself using them any time soon. Not my kinda thing.

But! Onwards! Towards the finishing touches.

A quick drybrush of P3 Pig Iron over the metal, then P3 Cold Steel highlights.

The eyes were done with a base of Khador Red Base, highlighted with P3 Heartfire, then washed with GW Baal red.

The base got a quick touch up of flat black, then PVA and modelling sand.

And there we go.

Trundling along to the next Menoth Jack - the Vanquisher!



Undercoated with Army Painter white spray, and ready to play splat the non believer.

Finally got some time to get on with the Menoth Jacks. Here I painted a flat coat of P3 Rhulic Gold and Pig Iron on the metal parts.



Next, on goes Army Painter Strong Tone and Dark Tone washes.



P3 Khador Red Base went on the Menoth symbol and the visor.



I washed the Menoth Symbol with GW Baal Red wash, then applied P3 Hearthfire as a highlight to the visor. Then on went some basing sand to complete the model.



I followed the same process for the Crusader, and here they are, all ready to bring the word of Menoth to the masses.

Hi all! Not dead, just been experimenting with a newly purchased airbrush. Allow me to present my first attempt.

Meet Jimbob. The sacrificial Space Marine. Though I no longer play 40K or buy anything from GW, I still make use of what relics I have. For the last few years this fellow has been the test model I try out new paints, paint schemes and products on. After every outing, he gets dunked in brake fluid to strip it all off, ready for the next time he is needed. And here he is, resplendent in airbrushed Vallejo paints that I am trying out for eventual use with my Retribution of Scyrah battlegroup.




Needs a little work, but positive steps in the right direction!

And now for the new army. Pointy ears and pointy swords, unleash the elves of the Retribution of Scyrah

As ever, I will be starting off with a battlegroup plastic starter set.



Inside, a few plastic bags containing...bits. So many fiddly little parts.



And when separated and cleaned up, there are enough parts to put together four models. The group leader, two light machines, and one heavy.



Let's start small. First to be put together was Kaelyssa, aka 'Night’s Whisper', the warcaster of the group. Only three parts, and the end result is one very nice looking model.

Next to be built, the light Myrmidons...Myrmidons being what the elves call Warjacks.

This is the Griffon, who I posed without any modifications.



For the Chimera, I cut the knee joints and hip joints in order to repose the model into a more dynamic running pose.

For the Manticore Heavy Myrmidon I cut and reposed the hips and added pin reinforcements so I could pose it on the charge, head down, ready to use pure brawn and bulk to smash stuff.



This marks the end of the posing and build portion of this particular battlegroup, and next I shall be seeing about basing them up.

All your base are belong to us! With the Retribution battlegroup assembled, time to get on with basing the models.

I am planning on going for a bit of a forest floor effect with these here elves. So here are what I will be using to detail the bases. I have some basic modelling sand in the jar, and two different grades/sizes of stones in the plastic bags. The last bag holds some brass etch leaves.



Before I start, it is just worth mentioning that for the medium slot bases, I filled the slot with the last of my ancient Humbrol model filler (generic poly filler I think).



I applied a little epoxy to a few areas of the base in order to affix the stones. I tend not to be too stingy when doing this, as I do not want to risk the stones detaching from the base at a later stage.

To add the modelling sand to the base, I first coated all the areas I wanted it with a mix of PVA glue and water.




That done, I covered the whole base of the model in the sand.



After shaking off the excess, I used a brush to dust off the loose sand that had gotten into nooks and crannies and anywhere it shouldn't. Once the glue had dried, I added a thinner coat of PVA/water mix to seal the sand in place so it will not detach when painting begins.

The last touch to the bases for now was adding a few leaves to the bases. These are available in either 1:48 or 1:35 scale so it really is down to your personal preference which you go for. I went for a mix of both. Applying them is dead easy, I just removed them from the sprue with a pair of clippers then put down a little dollop of superglue gel where I wanted them to go.



Using a fine pair of tweezers I gently pressed the brass etch leaves onto the base and then let the glue set.



With that done, I used up the last of my Army Painter black basecoat to prep the battlegroup for painting

For this battlegroup, I have elected to change from my usual tactics, and take the chance to cut my teeth with airbrushing. Using an airbrush is always something I wanted to get into, but has always been a little daunting to me. But the more I thought about it, the more the benefits of having one to hand began to outweigh the initial costs and (most likely steep) learning curve.

The first thing I had to do was select a suitable compressor. As with most things in life, you can spend as much, or as little as you like. There is a bewildering array of compressors out there and they come in all shapes, sizes, types and with as many different bells and whistles as you can think of. For my very first compressor, I went for a basic ‘no frills’ model from China. It is marketed as the AS18 and can be grabbed from Amazon or Ebay for as little as £50 ($80). It comes with a regulator/moisture trap (very important) and operates between 0 – 40 PSI which is ideal for my purposes.



An added bonus with the compressor I bought was that it came with a pair of free airbrushes as well. One suction draw ‘bottom fed’ airbrush, and a top fed ‘gravity feed’ airbrush.I have yet to use the bottom fed brush, and have been using the top fed one exclusively.

After a little fiddling about with all the settings, I began to practice with my new setup and finally figured out the alchemical tricks to mixing and thinning paint for use in the airbrush.

These are the products I used to mix the paint, all of it from Vallejo.



I started off with a drop of the Retarder (which stops the paint from drying too fast and clogging up the nozzle on the airbrush). After that, a mix of about four drops of paint, then added drops of the Airbrush Thinner to it until I got to what I felt was the legendary ‘skimmed milk’ consistency. I cheated a little by pre-mixing up batches of the paints I was going to be using in empty bottles before I began spraying, saving time.

One last thing worth mentioning about using an airbrush. Buy a lot of cleaning fluid and get ready to spend a lot of time maintaining and cleaning the brush. I cannot stress enough how important keeping the airbrush clean is to a decent finish on a model. Spattering, clogging, poor mixing…these are all symptoms of a poorly cleaned airbrush. I now spend more time cleaning the damn thing than I do actually spraying, but I think it is worth it for the finish, the lower costs over time compared to buying aerosols for base coating, and the flexibility of being able to spray my own colour mixes.

I used Vallejos Black Red (suitably thinned) for the first coat.

Over the Black Red, on went a coat of Vallejo Model Color Red (70.926), leaving some of the larger recesses and areas in shadow. This will form the base for the final red, as everything after this will be a highlight of sorts.

I next sprayed a 50/50 mix of Vallejo Gory Red and Bloody Red. This was applied to each model by spraying downwards at a 45 degree angle to catch the raised and top surfaces, but to leave the recesses and undersides in shadow.

To add a little tone and tie the layers and shades together, I applied a wash of GW Baal Red

Next up, I applied a final highlight of straight Vallejo Bloody Red







Automatically Appended Next Post:
And one last last application of red ink into the recesses, and that is the main colour finally finished!

A quick coat of black on all the parts of the models that are not going to be red.

Like the step by step, Mutley. Thanks for going through all the work to show us these.

 Moltar wrote:
Like the step by step, Mutley. Thanks for going through all the work to show us these.

Hey, thanks dude! I have learned so much looking at other blogs, so I might as well show my work in the off-chance that I can help someone else.

Moving on, I gave the fabric of Kaelyssa's clothing and cloak a basecoat of Vallejo Model Air Dark Sea Grey.



This was then highlighted with Vallejo Model Air Light Grey then inked with Army Painter Dark Tone.



Weapons were painted with P3 Hammerfall Khaki



I then drybrushed the weapons with P3 Menoth White Base with a final highlight of P3 Menoth White Highlight.

Kaelyssa's flesh was base coated with P3 Midlund Flesh.



This was then washed with Army Painter Strong Tone



I then highlighted it with 50/50 P3 Midlund Flesh and P3 Menoth White Highlight



The final highlight was done with straight P3 Menoth White Highlight. I painted the eyes black, adding a white dot either side before carefully inking hthe eye sockets with more Army Painter Strong Tone