Curious to hear what people think of the Necron Warriors I started.
Keep in mind they're roughly painted models, and should look better if I decide repaint my army with this paint scheme.
Thanks for any input in advance.

Some brighter pictures are in my gallery page.

that's very cool.
How did you do it?

this would make a badass army.

Undercoated Chaos Black, drybrushed Chainmail, covered 50-75% with blue ink, 1 coat (Think I have enough to repaint my army, even though they don't make it anymore apparently. If any one knows where to find more, please let me know.), painted random parts with Thraka Green, Leviathan Purple, and Asurmen Blue Washes, 2 coats each.

Looks great! Very nice job seriously.

Looks good!

I like.

I use Windsor and Newton inks, although they do result in a glossy finish. They are available from craft and art stores.

Cheers

Thanks everybody, the initial idea came from Blue Ink dipped DE poisoned blades I made way back when. Having a little trouble thinking what color to paint the blade on the gun, the chest marker, and metal tubes (or what ever those things are) that would go well with this. Chainmail or boltgun with shining gold on the marker look ok, but there's a lot of contrast between that and the "Oily" stuff. Not too sure about Tin or Bronze. (Don't have them).
Any Help?

Thinkin' about using the ceramic look on those parts and seeing how much those "Light collecting" (Glow in the dark) tubes and paint cost.

Boltgun metal with a black inking in the recesses.

Blue, purple and green all go well with yellow or white. So I would suggest any sort of gold metallic. A red/green metal like bronze or brass would probably muddy any difference between pieces of the model you wanted to enhance. I would shy away from any black metal completely. Since it's already your base color it would just disappear.

Thats a great idea and a good test mini.

I have had success coating over liquid silver spray with glazes, you just have to mix the glaze from some acrylic gloss medium LIQUITEX make a great set of products for this! Their Gloss medium will actually stick even over gloss spray paint bases!

http://www.liquitex.com/Products/fluidmedglossmedvar.cfm

I'm sure this could be combined with GW washes or even full strength normal colors to make pigments (green, blue and purple) to get the oil in water color idea across.

I have attached some examples of minis I coated (just one color not several like the cool Necron) with this technique. The Exodites in Blue and Black, the Thousand Sons in Black (note the glows in different colors) and the Khorne guys in Red over Gold!

MacGyver wrote:...Chainmail or boltgun with shining gold on the marker look ok, but there's a lot of contrast between that and the "Oily" stuff. Not too sure about Tin or Bronze. (Don't have them).
Any Help?

Starting with a sprayed liquid silver base is a real time saver. Give it a shot, it looks awesome over regular clean plastic, adn will save you hours of brush work painting chainmail etc. over primer.

Also note in my examples the purple on the sorcerer was a glaze I made over stark white from the liquitex product and Lich Purple GW paint and thats it, no shading at all! Glazes can be easily applied specifically and locally when mixed with a thick consistency (not like inks). You could easily make a green, purple and blue set and mix them into models (heh, I guess you have already)

Good luck

Here's a possible complete scheme, quick coated, I came up with, with a friend. Still needs lots of touch ups and detail.
Not sure about the black gun...

BTW, the emblem is white with gray detail, opposite of the blade.

Augustus wrote:
Starting with a sprayed liquid silver base is a real time saver...

I prefer to completely hand paint my models. It's cold here and spray usually doesn't set well.
Thanks for the advice.
-MacGyver

The oily effect you have on the body and limbs of the model is wonderful... so much so that the black of the gun really just falls flat. It makes it look like you got lazy and didn't put any effort into the gun.

Something that I've been doing lately for my Eldar, that may or may not work well for your guns, is to paint the gun shining gold, hit the details with the citadel red wash, then go back and highlight the gun with burnished gold. It gives the weapon a kind of rich coppery look that might go well with the iridescent figure.

great paint scheme look forward to seeing more of this necrons

Wicked scheme really.

Here's an update.

willydstyle wrote:The oily effect you have on the body and limbs of the model is wonderful...

Seconded.

A piece of advise, take your pics against a white background and it will be easier for us to see the details and color variance. You can use a white sheet of paper.

Also I'm sure the glazes would work over regular painted on paint. But it looks like you already have that under control! Good work.

I think the gun parts would look fine in the same multicolor as the necron itself, instead of black, but I think the dark finsihed one is decent too!

EDIT:

Why sand? Looks fine, but curios.

I'll see how it looks on white. Too much light and they're impossible to see, due to reflections.
&
Sand because my DE have purple bases, one terrain set I started a while ago matches that and the other is about this yellowish color already (I really need to start working on those again). My Choas have brownish-red bases, but have no terrain to go with it (Probably won't for a while or possibly ever.). I originally wanted to make a desert and an alien world, back when I only had DE, and this was kind of what I just happened to end up with overtime. Also yellowish-orange (what this started as) was like the exact opposite of my old scheme.
Edit:
In yellow I have only painted the GW moonscape, which could easily be stripped. If you think you have a better idea, please let me know.
-MacGyver

Agreed - might be easier to see with a lighter background. Looking good though.

That's probably the most interesting necron scheme I've ever seen. If you stuck with just blue/purple and applied it just a little more sparingly, it'd look an awful lot like the heat-patina on tempered steel.

Bravo, I say.

*golf clap*

That is the best necron army i have ever seen!

awsome but i'm pretty biased towards necrons as they are the only army i play.

Here it is with quick basing, and a lighter background. I'll probably get to the detail next week. Then mass production begins!
-MacGyver

Can we have more pictures in normal lighting pwease?

Its so dark to see anything ><

LunaHound wrote:Can we have more pictures in normal lighting pwease?

Its so dark to see anything ><

Just realized that after posting, here's a new one (They look darker here than when viewed in a preview).
Edit:
Guess that isn't much better...
Also makes the blade look too light.
-MacGyver

Here are some more (Taken from a different angle.). I have those energy saving bulbs, so I have to use a floor lamp while painting, thus that is the light source.
Edit:
New rear view.
-MacGyver

Too much light gets rid of the oily look...
-MacGyver

Superb. I think you could really do a LOT with a destroyer, because there is so much surface area to play with on the flying body with those.

I have reconsidered the black gun after seeing the lighter background images, I think it sets the gun apart from the necron and makes the piece look more finished.

Very nice!

Thank you, you think a destroyer's got a lot of surface area, wait till I repaint the Monolith!
-MacGyver

I believe krylon makes spraypaint in blue, green and yellow that have the same sort of oily effect. I will have to look into it. I hope I'm wrong though. Neceons need a way of escaping silver rustolium.

when it comes to necrons as long as it's not just drybrushed boltgun metal I like it..

These look amazing, that's an awesome effect you have going on with the oily patina. The only thing that seems out of place is the flat green on the gun, is it possible for you to brighten, or "oil" that up a bit?

Griffsnog wrote:I believe krylon makes spraypaint in blue, green and yellow that have the same sort of oily effect. I will have to look into it. I hope I'm wrong though. Neceons need a way of escaping silver rustolium.

I think you're thinking of pearlescent paint. I think that's the name, someone on another forum mentioned it too. From what I understand, it's very expensive. There's a car around here with that kind of paint on it. It's similar, but my scheme dosen't change colors in the same spot when you change the angle you look at.
-MacGyver

Lint wrote:These look amazing, that's an awesome effect you have going on with the oily patina. The only thing that seems out of place is the flat green on the gun, is it possible for you to brighten, or "oil" that up a bit?

Thank you,
The gun is black (Picture's a little off apparently), and it will be highlighted etc. I only wanted the living metal to look like this, the actual models, the monolith and warscythes etc.
-MacGyver

Accidently made this...
DELETED!!!
-MacGyver

MacGyver wrote:
Thank you,
The gun is black (Picture's a little off apparently), and it will be highlighted etc. I only wanted the living metal to look like this, the actual models, the monolith and warscythes etc.
-MacGyver

The black looks good, I like the contrast between the black gun, and the main coloring. I was talking about the green cables coming out of the gun, they just seem out of place in that flat a shade.

That is a really neat paint scheme ya made there. Very cool looking on a nercron.

Reminds me of Iron-Man's stealth suit.

I think your paint scheme is realy cool. I might have a few suggestions for achieving a similar effect. If you look in my gallery images (I don't know how to transfer them) there are pictures of a Tau hammerhead turret, the back end of the railgun is kind of a metallic purple. It's actually some kind of "mood color changing" finger nail polish I stole from my wife. If that doesn't work or you can't find it Tamiya used to make translucent paint. applied over a silver or gold paint makes a neat color I painted a few model cars that way "back in the day". Hope that helps

Lint wrote:The black looks good, I like the contrast between the black gun, and the main coloring. I was talking about the green cables coming out of the gun, they just seem out of place in that flat a shade

1st caption of this stage Says, "Warrior with all but detail and touch ups." Guess I should have put that on the last picture too.
So, this is painted with the basic colors (Other than the "Oilish" body), needs shading on the green, highlights on the gun, and touch ups here and there.
I'll keep the status updated in every post that includes a picture from now on.
-MacGyver

shrew wrote:If you look in my gallery images... ...there are pictures of a Tau hammerhead turret, the back end of the railgun is kind of a metallic purple. It's actually some kind of "mood color changing" finger nail polish I stole from my wife...

I think nail polish is a little hard to use because it's so thick and would probably easily clog detail and might not allow for dry brushing (Hard to see in your picture. Also, the smell can give me migraines). I like how it looks hand painted and would rather not sacrifice detail for ease (Did that before on this army, to get it ready for a tournament that never happened. Now I want it to be awesome!!!).
Thanks anyway
Note:
Currently working on 21 more warriors.
Should have a starter picture up in the next week or two.
Then details after that.
Then a Wraith & foot lord.
-MacGyver

Here's the beginning of the first 22/66 warriors. Some of the better pictures are the groups of three models (Not the same front and back).
Hopefully I'll get to the start of my foot lord and a wraith later this week.
Note:
I plan to have some more of the models painted "Oily" before I start details.
-MacGyver

Look at all the iron mans!

Mmmmmm.... oily...

I like them. They look great together.

Do they take very long to do?

tallmantim wrote:
Do they take very long to do?

They take a little while if you want them to look good.
Mostly planning where ink and washes go.
Otherwise it just takes time to wait for them to dry repeatedly.
I started using a heating fan on low.
-MacGyver

Wow en'mass they look like a tide of oil coming at you. I really dig the color scheme you got going on. Can't wait to see more!!

These are simply the best necrons I've seen finally an interesting scheme for Necrons. Well done it's a good idea and your executing it on mass wonderful.

Yeah, honestly those are top notch.

something else I thought of... I was either in Walmart or Kmart & saw Krylon has a 2 or 3 part spray kit to make that pearle color changing effect, like some high $$$ asian sport tuner cars are painted. Just something to think about if your going to paint something the size of a monolith. I'm not critisizing your work I think it's awsome & i know it must be alot of work for one figure. I just thought it might be a short cut for something bigger.

shrew wrote:something else I thought of... I was either in Walmart or Kmart & saw Krylon has a 2 or 3 part spray kit to make that pearle color changing effect, like some high $$$ asian sport tuner cars are painted. Just something to think about if your going to paint something the size of a monolith. I'm not critisizing your work I think it's awsome & i know it must be alot of work for one figure. I just thought it might be a short cut for something bigger.

That paint is too light and shiny. Also, doesn't allow for detail and would look weird with other colors, such as green, over it. I think I'm going to do it by hand, but thanks anyway.
-MacGyver

Being MacGyver and all, you should be able to create a Golden Demon quality Monolith with a toothpick, gaffer tape, a used condom and a 1932 bakerlite ashtray!

;-)

I look forward to seeing your work...

Not quite a disaster, but I thought this might be a bit amusing.
I came home yesterday to find Henry, my near 20lb cat had attacked, broken and lost pieces to everything I took out of the stripping bucket two days ago and many other things on the painting table. He had decided to hold onto a recently stripped Immortal without his gun for whatever reason and seemed very pleased with himself (See picture). I think he got into the cat nip as he hasn't done this since he was a kitten.
So expect delays on further pictures.
I was hoping to have put up pictures of the fully stripped & assembled army by this weekend, other than the warriors, which should be mostly legs, torsos and heads, but now may be delayed.
This was the best picture I could get before he bolted.
-MacGyver
Edit:
Pictures originally didn't show.

Holding it for ransom, eh?
Maybe he'll trade for catnip or snacky-snacks.
If he's hardcore,....it will be milk bottle rings.

Sorry for your miniatures..but you have a great looking cat!

aunshova wrote:Look at all the iron mans!

I thought blood angels looked like ironmans, or communists. Never mind they are deffinately secret C.C.C.P. soldiers from Russia.

aunshova wrote:Look at all the iron mans!

Griffsnog wrote:
I thought blood angels looked like ironmans, or communists. Never mind they are deffinately secret C.C.C.P. soldiers from Russia.

It's a reference to an earlier post regarding Iron Man's Stealth Suit, look up.
-MacGyver

looking good!

MacGyver wrote:

Griffsnog wrote:I believe krylon makes spraypaint in blue, green and yellow that have the same sort of oily effect. I will have to look into it. I hope I'm wrong though. Neceons need a way of escaping silver rustolium.

I think you're thinking of pearlescent paint. I think that's the name, someone on another forum mentioned it too. From what I understand, it's very expensive. There's a car around here with that kind of paint on it. It's similar, but my scheme dosen't change colors in the same spot when you change the angle you look at.
-MacGyver

The krypon product is called X-Metals comes in blue green and yellow they are adonized colors so they give that sort of oily glow but it would not look in any way as good as yours. It may be good for monoliths to give it a nice even coat but specialty paints ten to "overcoat" a bit and block out some detail.

Griffsnog wrote:

The krypon product is called X-Metals comes in blue green and yellow they are adonized colors so they give that sort of oily glow but it would not look in any way as good as yours. It may be good for monoliths to give it a nice even coat but specialty paints ten to "overcoat" a bit and block out some detail.

I'd rather paint it myself. I did a 1/2-face test coat of my new scheme directly over the old scheme, before stripping, and even with an undercoat, bolt gun drybrush, blue ink, and watered down regal blue (I used to have a metallic blue army which no longer exists!) and details painted black, boltgun and gold (That's about 4 layers in most places, depending on where, before the new scheme), it didn't clog. So I expect it, without the old paint, to look good.
Thanks though
-MacGyver

Finally, warm enough to spray again...
Here's the freshly-undercoated army, with the exception of the 66 warriors (Doing a little more damaged model work and, for the fourth and hopefully last time, re-stripping the others). I noticed the Monolith and some Destroyers (Which were undercoated earlier) have saw dust on them. Some of this stuff was included with the monolith (Otherwise I wouldn't have a little of everything). The monolith is sticky-tacked from a recent game, until I get the plasticard for reinforcement. Those four things in the bottom right corner (I can't remember what exactly they are or where they came from.) will be objectives, until I make/get better ones.

Hopefully, I can get to the 1st test Pariah this weekend.

For apocalypse, I'm thinking of adding a Monolith Phalanx (If I can find one) or a combo of more Destroyers, Heavy Destroyers, Immortals and Wraiths. Still trying to get a hold of the guy who may not want his flayed ones (Which would change my plans).

I've restarted the terrain set that goes with the army, I should have some unpainted stuff up here in a while.

Note: All Flying bases have neodymium magnets on them. If you get paint/glue on a neodymium magnet, scraping it off makes them rust so, if you can, let it dry and rub them on a piece of denim.
Another Note: If you noticed, I'm missing a Tomb Spyder Particle Projector. If you think you can help, I put a thread in the Swap Shop.
Yet Another Note: I've been using warriors/unused models for stand-ins for quite a while, so there's no more than ten of each. I plan to change that when the Apocalypse list is made.
-MacGyver

I started two lightly battle damaged Necrons. I don't have a lot of experience with green stuff (Just skin over gaps on a Daemon Prince and 3 Obliterators) so I'm hoping future models start looking a little better soon.

One had a bullet hit it in the head (Used "Hobby Drill" for the hole), there's a slope before the divot, which isn't really visible other than color in the picture. The other had some kind of energy weapon skim his leg (I used a foam cutting wire to melt the plastic away), which is in the process of repairing.

I just noticed it looks like the bullet hit warrior has stubble. I think it's shavings from something (They came right off afterwords).

The third Damaged Necron was created as a joke because one of the few unassembled ones was missing the second piece of his gun and I needed a way to have it hidden or I had to make a new one. He was inspired by the character "Frank Vitchard" in the movie "Anchorman", to a degree (I had just watched it again).
-MacGyver

Good idea. I might out some mythril silver or equivalent where there's damage to make it really stand out. That way it could hint at how perfect the necrons really are inder all of the grudge. Contrast=Victory

aunshova wrote:Good idea. I might out some mythril silver or equivalent where there's damage to make it really stand out. That way it could hint at how perfect the necrons really are inder all of the grudge. Contrast=Victory

The idea was supposed to be that the "Oily" (More like heated Copper) color was the outer layer of metal, and there's at least one non-colored layer underneath.
The bullet shot warrior has some metal where hit.
The other has less of the other colors in the swirl to show that it's healing from a hit.
-MacGyver

I really like the look of your necrons! I beleive that a monolith looking like that, or a bunch of destroyers that looked like that would be amazing!! Keep up the good work, and I hope to see more pictures of the like!

I don't know how fiddly of a modeler you want to be, but if you put some small rods or something in the damaged area on that necron's leg, it could look really cool.

willydstyle wrote:I don't know how fiddly of a modeler you want to be, but if you put some small rods or something in the damaged area on that necron's leg, it could look really cool.

I'd like to leave the lightly damaged ones how they are. I have some small speaker wires and other bits from an old stereo in a box I plan to use for models with a bit more damage. I haven't gone through it in a while, but I think the bits should work out ok.
Thanks
-MacGyver

Here are some pictures of the 1st (Maybe last) possible Pariah paint scheme. It's just a rough coat and needs a lot of touch ups and detail work. I used less Leviathan Purple wash because if the midnight blue, and the blades have the same darkened metal with a Chainmail edge as the Warrior's blades, before adding the washes. I added a color key for the Pariah and a picture of the 1st part of the terrain set recently sprayed (Looks like it needs another coat). I'll have enough terrain to cover 3'x4'. I wanted there to be enough for a variety when it's done, or we can play with it on a 8'x6' board for big games. I plan to either remove the palm tree or add "Water" in the attached crater. The terrain pieces were made with "Moonscape" craters, pink insulation foam, liquid nails, light spackling, latex paint (To protect the foam from the spray), bits of straw, beach sand, and small rocks. The terrain will be painted similarly to the flying stand posted earlier.
I'll label and add some pictures of part of the painting process for the Pariah if requested.
-MacGyver

I was able to get a bit of work done last night. Roughly painted the 1st Immortal (Similar scheme to the Pariah), rough painted a Scarab Swarm and fixed up the Pariah's "Oily" colors (his back still needs a bit of work, I'll get to it this weekend). I also added some pictures of them with the scarabs and a damaged warrior.

I'd like some opinions on if you all think I should paint each small panel separately on the Monolith, or paint each face as one big surface. I'm having a bit of a hard time picturing which would look better (I don't have a lot of ink left to test it and I'm still looking for more).

Let me know what you think of them all together.

Thanks,
-MacGyver

I've gotten a bit more busy, so I'll most likely be posting only on Sunday or Monday a few times a month.
Thanks for the support,
-MacGyver

Love 'em! Except the pariah - I like it but it seems a little off to me... Maybe its the position its in or the fact that I have never seen a pariah upclose (One Necron player who only had immortals and warriors, I think. very small army)

~Ramzca~

Here are GW's Pariah pictures, for comparison, if you wish to look. I switched the arms around a bit for variety (I have 10) works with most of them.
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/armySubUnitCats.jsp?catId=cat380008&rootCatGameStyle=#
-MacGyver

Looks like my post was lost during the submission process...
Twice.
Here's another copy:

This was all I had time for...
A friend suggested I put a light coat of wonder wash on my models to make them shine and appear more metallic. Here are some pictures of the start of another Pariah, before and after applying the wash. I also painted stripes on the blades, just to see how they'd look (I don't think I'm going to keep the stripes). I think I'm going to use the wash on finished models.
-MacGyver

That's a really cool necron paint scheme. It looks like they walked out of a large oil tank or something (perhaps they were awakened on a imperal oil world?)

mine is using GW wash color

These new pics really show off the scheme.

I was thinking since your necrons are oily-like, you should make the gun and blade a little rusty, not as in decrepit rust, but more like a machine getting old, which is essentially what Necrons are. Maybe a red wash or ink would help with that. It just seems to fit with oily IMO.

Those look pretty nice. Specially after the shine job you gave them. That really fits on a necron. Everyones ideas gave me ideas for my nephews necrons. IM BUYING THEM TODAY HURRAY!

NICE Macgyver! seeing them together on page 2 looks awesome! Their color reminds me of the optical shift paint they used on the Mustang Cobra flopping between purple, green, and blue depending on the angle you are looking from.

Superscope wrote:That's a really cool necron paint scheme. It looks like they walked out of a large oil tank or something (perhaps they were awakened on a imperal oil world?)

The idea was originally oily/gas-in-water look, it ended up like heated copper because they don't have a "ring" of color (See Picture), which still looks good. The terrain is a dead world barely coming back to life, small bushes made out of mini banana trees and a few palm trees where there's a bit of water, surrounded by desert with small dead trees made out of pieces of straw. Which goes with the heat idea a bit.

LBursley wrote:NICE Macgyver! seeing them together on page 2 looks awesome! Their color reminds me of the optical shift paint they used on the Mustang Cobra flopping between purple, green, and blue depending on the angle you are looking from.

I think it's called "Pearlescent" paint. From what I understand, that stuff's very expensive.
Thanks for the comments,
-MacGyver

Might be a little late to chime in with some comments, but wow, you have executed a very nice faux-pearlescent effect!

Though having said that I have to nitpick that the models look very 'flat' in the sense that the details have become obscured in the darkness, and the gun, on close examination, sticks out like a sore thumb because it's flat black, and nothing else on the model figure shares the same colour to tie it together. The issue is almost nonexistent with the pariahs, as you seem to have brightened them up as well as done the pearl effect on their warscythes as well. (Or it could be the flash, I have no idea)

My humble suggestion, which in no way a criticism of your painting skills, would be to paint perhaps the face-mask of the necrons a contrasting colour such as off-white? I think this has probably been done to death before, but it does give a very good "focus" point for the eye when viewing your models. You could add a little of this colour to the gun to pick it out, then finish the rest of the gun with your faux-pearl effect.

My 2 pence. Regardless of the spare change, you have a very nice looking and unique army going for you there!

ZandrisIV wrote:Might be a little late to chime in with some comments, but wow, you have executed a very nice faux-pearlescent effect!

Though having said that I have to nitpick that the models look very 'flat' in the sense that the details have become obscured in the darkness, and the gun, on close examination, sticks out like a sore thumb because it's flat black, and nothing else on the model figure shares the same colour to tie it together. The issue is almost nonexistent with the pariahs, as you seem to have brightened them up as well as done the pearl effect on their warscythes as well. (Or it could be the flash, I have no idea)

My humble suggestion, which in no way a criticism of your painting skills, would be to paint perhaps the face-mask of the necrons a contrasting colour such as off-white? I think this has probably been done to death before, but it does give a very good "focus" point for the eye when viewing your models. You could add a little of this colour to the gun to pick it out, then finish the rest of the gun with your faux-pearl effect.

My 2 pence. Regardless of the spare change, you have a very nice looking and unique army going for you there!

Just so you know, these are in no way finished models, just tests as they progress over time. I plan to try a bit harder on finished models and still need to add touch ups, detail and such. I'll have at least one finished warrior done soon hopefully. The guns are either going to have just highlights or highlights and a different color, I'm not sure yet.
-MacGyver

I see what you mean, but I'm just wondering what details you would be adding to your finished models to make them 'pop' on the table top.

With regards to the guns, it would be advisable to colour match the guns to something on the bodies at least, even if it is just green glows (which is another idea).

Maybe you could replace the green rods with purple rods? That would make things a lot more uniform and tied in...

ZandrisIV wrote:I see what you mean, but I'm just wondering what details you would be adding to your finished models to make them 'pop' on the table top.

With regards to the guns, it would be advisable to colour match the guns to something on the bodies at least, even if it is just green glows (which is another idea).

Maybe you could replace the green rods with purple rods? That would make things a lot more uniform and tied in...

I plan to put highlights or shading (Depending on what's being painted) on anything not painted with the heated-copper/oily look. Anything else is currently up in the air.
I decided to keep the base of the guns black. I prefer the gun that way and asked a few others who agree it doesn't distract too much from the main part of the scheme. Otherwise they match too much making the scheme too simple. Someone said it would be similar to if an Iron Warriors army didn't have the yellow & black. The only parts that would be different would be green/normal metals. I don't think I'd like to change the rods either. I think it goes alright with the scheme. There's some green mixed in there, more on some models than others. Any other suggestions you have to make them 'pop' would be appreciated, but I think the bulk is figured out.
Thanks
-MacGyver
Edited to correct typo.

This is quite the impressive(original might I add) Necron scheme. If you ever paint a Monolith with this scheme, I would like to see it.

Bloogonis wrote:This is quite the impressive(original might I add) Necron scheme. If you ever paint a Monolith with this scheme, I would like to see it.

Thanks,
I have a Monolith, but because of the length of time it would take, I plan to paint it last or after I figure out how exactly I'm going to paint the rest of the army.
-MacGyver

All I've had time for lately was these seven damaged warriors. I've been working on some Dark Elves as my 1st Fantasy army. The Necron Warriors need Green Stuffing and arms are either not glued or are sticky tacked to allow for easier painting. By the way, due to the fact that I've started Fantasy, this will not become an Apocalypse Army any time soon.
-MacGyver

You sir, paint good necrons.

Those necrons are awesome! I've never seen anything like it

Because GW no longer makes Blue Ink, I've tried out Vallejo Blue Ink. The "Decapitated" model was painted with it. The only difference I can see is that it goes on much thinner than the GW Ink, so you need at least two coats.
I'm also using Didi's Magic Ink instead of Wonder Wash. It's just a bit darker, so it needs a lighter coat (Not used in these pictures).
Because I'm starting Fantasy, this thread will be a bit slower until the Summer.
Thanks for the compliments,
-MacGyver

Accidentally double posted in a glitch. Is there a way to delete this? I couldn't find it.
-MacGyver

no you cant delete a double post but nice necrons

Sorry to not update this for so long, I've been busy with more important things, so I have been unable to do much work other than stripping 10 Flayed ones that have been recently absorbed into the Necron Mob. I'll have a bit more time now that the Summer has arrived, and hope to have a bit more done on this army in my free time.
I'll try to have some new work up by the 1st of June.
-MacGyver

The oily part looks good but I would make some recomendations:

Paint the guns the same as the model and get the tubes in blue instead of green. They will look much better with the model and can be found at most hobby towns (or in their online store). You will have to cut em to length but that is very easy. Clear might look good too.

Oh and I forgot to mention that the guys at the Warstore told me that the privateer press paints have inks that are the same formula the GW inks used to be. I am pretty sure they had stated it was the PP inks. Personally I am not a big fan of the Valejo ones even though I paint a lot with their paints.

Fishboy wrote:The oily part looks good but I would make some recomendations:

Paint the guns the same as the model and get the tubes in blue instead of green. They will look much better with the model and can be found at most hobby towns (or in their online store). You will have to cut em to length but that is very easy. Clear might look good too.

Oh and I forgot to mention that the guys at the Warstore told me that the privateer press paints have inks that are the same formula the GW inks used to be. I am pretty sure they had stated it was the PP inks. Personally I am not a big fan of the Valejo ones even though I paint a lot with their paints.

I think I'd like to keep the Warrior scheme similar to how it is now (All the same color, makes them too simple looking for my taste), and the rods as they are. Making blue or clear versions of the Monolith plastic parts (The portal, gem, and small circle specifically) would be a bit difficult as well. Thanks though.
I'll look into the Privateer Press Inks, when I run out of Vallejo (I have 2 bottles to use and don't want to waste them). Thanks for that, I was looking for a while and Vallejo was the best I could find.
-MacGyver

Your oily paint scheme looks VERY nice.


My son is starting a Necron army and we are trying to figure out a color scheme to go with. Thanks, I think you just found it for us. He has a tomb spider that is ready for paint'n and I think I am gonna give it a try.
I have also talked to my son about getting red tubs to replace the green ones for something different and I too thought it would be almost impossible to replace the parts on the monolith so we are sticken with green.

Stump wrote:Your oily paint scheme looks VERY nice.


My son is starting a Necron army and we are trying to figure out a color scheme to go with. Thanks, I think you just found it for us. He has a tomb spider that is ready for paint'n and I think I am gonna give it a try.
I have also talked to my son about getting red tubs to replace the green ones for something different and I too thought it would be almost impossible to replace the parts on the monolith so we are sticken with green.

I'd like to see what you do with it. Send me a PM if you get some pictures up.
I did have a few experimental models using the same technique with different colors (Already went through the stripper so I could start mass production ASAP), but decided to stick with this one. I found this also works well with oranges, yellows and reds (Not counting the green rods), or green as a base (Better with the green rods). I tried a few others but those two and the original were my favorites. I did like the blue ones a bit more though.
I would suggest experimenting around with color to find your favorite, unless you think you already found it.
If you would like more detailed instructions, let me know.
-MacGyver

Here is what I did last night. The pics are not the best but I think it is turning out ok. The youngster is wanting me to put some silver or metallic stuff on it somewhere. Gonna have to really think about that one.
But I am pleased so far with the way it turned out. Thanks a bunch for the inspiration.

I like how it's turning out. I used silver only where damaged and on blades connected to guns if you needed a reason to use some for him. I couldn't really find another reason to use it.
Glad to be of help.
-MacGyver

I finished it up and it looks cool. My batteries are dead on my camera so I will get a pic here later for ya. I really just used silver on the claw, a little on the face and a little on the gun. I did dry brush a very small amount of mith silver all over and it seemed to finish it off nicely.

You colour scheme is god dman amazing!! and your conversions are lol

@Stump , i 100% liking yours because we are able to see the actual colors in normal light.

Pearlessence paints are cheap , they are like 3x more ML for the same price as 1 GW paint -_-

Here's the start of a Wraith. I'll try to do a bit more work on it soon.

@Luna Hound: I do most of my painting at night, so today I took the pictures in the morning, rather than right after painting. They're in direct sunlight, so if you still think it's too dark, I'll have to mess around with the camera settings a bit more (They look brighter on the camera screen).
-MacGyver

Antique Copper is a cool muted metallic that might look good with that paint scheme. I love the oily look, btw.

I started 2 more Wraiths. Here they all are.
-MacGyver

Wow, these look awesome Actually makes it seem much more likely that they could actually move around with that slimy look to them

Awesome just awesome. I love the way you get that metallic look like you dipped em in motor oil.
Or they kinda look the backs of those japanese beetles. they look awesome. Keep it up

I liked the model but not the bases.

MauleedlovesYakeface wrote:I liked the model but not the bases.

That's not the finished base, just similar colors. I don't have the basing colors totally figured out yet. I may debase the other models and change the color.
-MacGyver

I thought I'd let you all know, I started my three Tomb Spyders, the oily stuff is finished anyway. I didn't put up pictures yet, because it's too foggy to take a picture and they seem come out better in direct sunlight, rather than the light of my painting floor-lamp. I added markings on their backs in heavy ink that I'll either outline or partially fill in with Midnight Blue. The markings weren't painted perfectly, but I did that to resemble bugs in nature, they also don't show too much right now and seem to distract from the oily look, so keep the outline or fill in in mind when I get pictures up. I'm not too sure how they'll look with the markings finished, so a repaint on the shell is a possibility. I think I'm also going to make snake markings on the Wraiths (One seemed to look a bit like "Indian Cobra" markings on it's own).
I'll get the pictures up on the next sunny day that I have time.
-MacGyver

cant wait to see those spiders. This paint scheme is really nice.

I've been thinking about this for a while, and I've decided that if I can get some more Midnight Blue (I have 1/2-3/4 of a pot left), from somewhere, I'll make the guns Midnight Blue to match the extra armor on Pariahs, Immortals, other models, and certain parts of the Monolith (Yes I started it finally!).
Does anyone know of a site where you might be able to get some that's reputable? I did a bit of searching, with no luck.
Thanks,
-MacGyver

I forgot to take the Tomb Spyder pictures (Sorry), I'll get to it soon, but here's the start of the Monolith's front plate. It does have a metallic shining effect, and the custom midnight blue type color has the same shine as midnight blue, but neither effect shows up too well on camera. The custom midnight blue is a 2:2:3 mix of Vallejo Night blue, GW Liche Purple, and GW Blue Ink (I'm going to try Privateer Press ink as a replacement if I need more, but I have a pot and a half, so I don't think I will), making it a bit runny. I received a lot of good feedback from people seeing it in person, so I think I'm going to make the rest of the plates like this, even though I wasn't too sure about it my self.
Thanks for all the support & feedback so far,
Edit: I forgot to add, this isn't exactly totally visible either, the colors move across each face onto the next. I plan to do this on all 4 walls (and other touching parts with the same colors) to try to make all the faces go together.
-MacGyver

WOW!! that looks great!!

sort of looks like Van Gogh's starry night...

So, I decided to give up on taking a "Daylight" picture of the Tomb Spyders, it's been too rainy lately. These were taken while I somehow held up two light sources and took the picture at the same time. Sorry for the weird angle, it was hard to hold the camera between the lights. I'll find a better way to take the pictures for next time. Again, I'm not to sure about the Shell Markings.
Note: Any part that appears to be missing a wash, isn't. It's just the light.
Edit: Wow, you can really see all the imperfections in the metal in these pictures...
-MacGyver

wow awesome scheme! test 3 is definetely the best!

I need to get as much work done on these as possible for a campaign on the 24th. It lasts 9 weeks, so I'll have more time to paint during. I'll be posting less (If at all) until then, while working my ass off. I hope to have some complete model pictures up soon, I'll at least have them up during or after the campaign.
-MacGyver

The picture didn't come out too well, because of the glare, and he will look better when he's painted, but...
Here he is, "Arnold '91"!
Terminator 2 Style (See ending).
-MacGyver

I thought I'd add this as my last post until I have a chance depending on the Campaign,
Thanks again for all the comments and support so far. I originally put this up so a friend who moved to the SF area could see the progress, he moved to WarSeer, but because of all the replies to the thread, I kept it open. I wasn't expecting so many people to like this so much. I really appreciate all the feedback.
Here's the final damaged warrior.
He hath been dubbed, "What the Hell Man!"
He needs a bit of green stuff work (Especially on the hand), he has a number of bullet wounds and holes from every direction.

Also, from my work with "Arnold '91", I'd like to offer a bit of advice when sculpting with Green Stuff, especially in large quantities; use powder-less, print-less, latex gloves, I ran into no fingerprint problems with this one.
-MacGyver

Keeping your fingers and tools coated in petroleum jelly is an alternative to gloves. Gloves will stick to the green stuff as well, so the petroleum jelly is useful for this as well. Clean each layer with a bit of soapy water before painting and/or more sculpting. Green stuff takes around one hour to dry but you should be generous with the curing time, or place your models in a sunny window. There are also methods of making curing ovens to speed this process up even more, but I doubt it is worth the investment. You can make one basically the same way you make a home-made fruit dryer. Alternatively you can slow the hardening process by working in front of a fan or in a cold basement. If you have extra green stuff, you can put it into a bag and stick it in the freezer. I can't guarantee this will keep the green stuff fresh beyond 6 hours. This is best done when you have made a fresh batch, but have something to take care of; avoid using this method on your built models, I highly doubt the effects will be beneficial.

If you prefer to keep things a bit simpler and are not planning great amount of detail, extra hardener can be added when mixing. This will limit your working time by as much as half, so be careful when doing this and avoid mixing more than 60% hardener.

Vaseline can also be mixed lightly with green stuff or milliput to make it a bit less sticky and more clay-like. I don't recommend this unless your materials are not very fresh. Milliput reacts to water, green stuff does not. Alternatively milliput usually responds to sanding and drilling well (carving is a waste of time), while green stuff is basically limited to your one hour of work time. Milliput is a great way to make non-detailed bases.

Wrexasaur wrote:Keeping your fingers and tools coated in petroleum jelly is an alternative to gloves. Gloves will stick to the green stuff as well, so the petroleum jelly is useful for this as well. Clean each layer with a bit of soapy water before painting and/or more sculpting. Green stuff takes around one hour to dry but you should be generous with the curing time, or place your models in a sunny window. There are also methods of making curing ovens to speed this process up even more, but I doubt it is worth the investment. You can make one basically the same way you make a home-made fruit dryer.

If you prefer to keep things a bit simpler and are not planning great amount of detail, extra hardener can be added when mixing. This will limit your working time by as much as half, so be careful when doing this and avoid mixing more than 60% hardener.

Vaseline can also be mixed lightly with green stuff or milliput to make it a bit less sticky and more clay-like. I don't recommend this unless your materials are not very fresh. Milliput reacts to water, green stuff does not.

I should have added to keep the gloves wet, like all other sculpting tools, bye for now.
-MacGyver

Huh, the tips on petroleum jelly sound like a good trick. I'll have to try it.

Wrexasaur wrote:Keeping your fingers and tools coated in petroleum jelly is an alternative to gloves. Gloves will stick to the green stuff as well, so the petroleum jelly is useful for this as well. Clean each layer with a bit of soapy water before painting and/or more sculpting. Green stuff takes around one hour to dry but you should be generous with the curing time, or place your models in a sunny window. There are also methods of making curing ovens to speed this process up even more, but I doubt it is worth the investment. You can make one basically the same way you make a home-made fruit dryer. Alternatively you can slow the hardening process by working in front of a fan or in a cold basement. If you have extra green stuff, you can put it into a bag and stick it in the freezer. I can't guarantee this will keep the green stuff fresh beyond 6 hours. This is best done when you have made a fresh batch, but have something to take care of; avoid using this method on your built models, I highly doubt the effects will be beneficial.

If you prefer to keep things a bit simpler and are not planning great amount of detail, extra hardener can be added when mixing. This will limit your working time by as much as half, so be careful when doing this and avoid mixing more than 60% hardener.

Vaseline can also be mixed lightly with green stuff or milliput to make it a bit less sticky and more clay-like. I don't recommend this unless your materials are not very fresh. Milliput reacts to water, green stuff does not. Alternatively milliput usually responds to sanding and drilling well (carving is a waste of time), while green stuff is basically limited to your one hour of work time. Milliput is a great way to make non-detailed bases.

Thanks for the info on mixing the petroleum jelly with green stuff and mixing in more hardener (I currently use different kinds of putty like green stuff, some harder than others, but less or more might cut down on on the amount of putty stored with my modeling supplies.), that's good to know. I think I will, however, stick with the gloves for print-free sculpting. I'll only need one pair for a long time (Unless they get damaged), so it's hopefully a one time purchase of a box of 10 pairs (More money to the hobby of never ending doom!), I think it would be easier to work without fingers covered in jelly (The gloves seem to have a good grip even when wet), and there's no clean-up afterwords. I also don't like the feeling of petroleum jelly, so I'd probably wear gloves over my hands anyway.
Thanks
-MacGyver

Something important came up (I won't go into details) and it looks like I'll have to skip the campaign. I haven't been able to get more work done, nor will I be able to for a while (As far as I can see). I'll try to get some finished ones up when I can.
Sorry,
MacGyver

AWWWWWWWW!

you did a great job on painting that

they look really good! I like the darkness in them.

It's been a while, but I finally had some time to work on my Necrons.
Here's the start of the Lords. I apologize for the low light, one of my painting lamps disappeared during my recent move.
They still need more blending, but they're coming along.
I'll get more up as soon as I can,
-MacGyver

Those things look pretty awesome.

I copied your technique awhile back and I like yours way better. I bow to the master of the oily necrons.