It reminds me more of the robot from the end of the craptacular Jamie Lee Curtis move 'virus'. In order to distance the look from Wall-E or Short Circuit looks, if you want, you could add in some dangling insect like proboscis underneath, like fly mouth parts... mechanical or organic, would work either way!
Sageheart wrote:i love that demonhunter, i get a walle feel from it. have you tried making your own horror heads?
2000th post btw
My own Horror heads? You mean... With GS?
How do you want me to even consider that?!? My GS-fu is just blurry & sketchy, which may work well on the pics for Nurgle- or flaming- related things, but sculpting heads? That's beyond me, I'm afraid...
Congrats on the post count!
MajorTom11 wrote:It reminds me more of the robot from the end of the craptacular Jamie Lee Curtis move 'virus'. In order to distance the look from Wall-E or Short Circuit looks, if you want, you could add in some dangling insect like proboscis underneath, like fly mouth parts... mechanical or organic, would work either way!
Never saw that film, sorry... Any pic to show the craptacular robot? Wait, does that mean my DP looks craptacular? I had rather like Killtacultar, but, well, yuo know...
As for the proboscis (I learnt a word today, thank you), I'm not sure I understand what you are thinking of.
Something like that?
I'm not really sure, dude...
QUITE-LIKE-AN-UPDATE-BUT-NOT-THAT-MUCH :
After accepting that I uploaded his pic of finished Brother Tanaerum, Gitsplitta suggested that I posted it in my blog, "so that people can vote on him".
So, here I am following the orders of Tanaerum's new Lord, hence this pic :
Gitsplitta's job made it even better than it was, I'm honoured to have had him work on one of my minis!
Sweetness itself Yggs. Everybody should vote and comment on it in the gallery... (hint, hint). Also if there's a lot of traffic on this blog now that it's posted... it might make the side bar photos in the gallery which will give it great exposure!
I didn't work on your mini Yggs... just stuck the Deathwatch pad on and made the base for it. The mastery is all yours!
And just to put you on the spot...
Hey Everyone!! Yggs PROMISED to do a little tutorial on how he does his OSL which is excellent, subtle and very realistic! If you want to encourage him to do so... NOW would be the time to put your thumb on 'im!
No link I can find unfortunately. And just for the record lol, and the robot itself was pretty awesome, imagine a cross between a nurgle defiler and an obliterator type flesh growths! The movie itself and acting were poop though, thats all, Im really liking the mini!
The heads were similar between the robot in that movie and the sensor you chose as the head. The robot hand dangling pincers and other insecty looking parts hanging underneath a fairly boxy head, it looked good. The dangly parts were mechanical though, not organic. Although on yours you could go either way. The fly is afterall Nurgle's favorite beastie!
Seriously, you have never seen Virus? If I can find cheap DVDs of Virus and Event Horizon I promise you'll get them for the Games Day (if you plan to go to the Games day.)
Talking of that, if you go to the French GD, I'd be happy to challenge you for the Scrap Demon
No, seriously, I have never seen Virus, nor Event Horizon as mentioned before...
And though it's really nice of you, I won't be able to go to the GD this year, for I'll be in Afghanistan from April to October... I'm too sad I won't be able to get the GD Skaven Lord!!!
Yggdrasil wrote:No, seriously, I have never seen Virus, nor Event Horizon as mentioned before...
And though it's really nice of you, I won't be able to go to the GD this year, for I'll be in Afghanistan from April to October... I'm too sad I won't be able to get the GD Skaven Lord!!!
Try to grab the DVDs before you leave, I've heard there's not much to do on your free time there (Y'a même pas un bar décent!), it'll be the right occasion to improve your horror movies culture .
Don't worry for the Skaven lord, I don't play Skavens anyway
No fly head from Chaos sprue, your sensor head looks much cooler... just fly like mouth parts dropping from the underside of the sensor, even ones that are mechanical looking is what I mean... Absolutely don't change the head you've already used lol! C'est un question des details additionel au dessous de la tete comme il est pour caser le sillouette un petit peut plus vers un conversion au lieu d'un kitbash... juste des petits details, pas quel'que chose qui va detruire l'effet que vous avez deja reusi. Je pense que c'est difficile a expliquer sans un connaisance de cet monstre en particulier eh???
Hyenajoe wrote:Try to grab the DVDs before you leave, I've heard there's not much to do on your free time there (Y'a même pas un bar décent!), it'll be the right occasion to improve your horror movies culture .
Don't worry for the Skaven lord, I don't play Skavens anyway
I'm not really keen on watching a lot of films, actually... I prefer spending my spare time with my minis, some music, a book, or video games... When I was in Tchad, I have watched no more than 10 movies in 4 months (and there was nothing much to do either uh!).
Still, thanks for the offer on the Skaven Lord, I'll be sure to remind you when I'm back from AFG!! Thx a lot!
MajorTom11 wrote:No fly head from Chaos sprue, your sensor head looks much cooler... just fly like mouth parts dropping from the underside of the sensor, even ones that are mechanical looking is what I mean... Absolutely don't change the head you've already used lol! C'est un question des details additionel au dessous de la tete comme il est pour caser le sillouette un petit peut plus vers un conversion au lieu d'un kitbash... juste des petits details, pas quel'que chose qui va detruire l'effet que vous avez deja reusi. Je pense que c'est difficile a expliquer sans un connaisance de cet monstre en particulier eh???
voting about to commence!
I guess it's hard to explain indeed... I've tried a few things, but they don't seem to work... I'll try & take a pic, and see whether I'm close to what you're thinking of.
Nice French btw!
Earthbeard wrote:Excellent work in here, was a delightful and excellent read from start to finish, liking how the river troll/ daemon prince is shaping up.
Thanks for the kind words...
UPDATES :
Speaking of the Daemon Prince, I've spent a few hours on it, trying to Nurglify the Orky parts, in the manner I did on my Traitor Guards.
In addition, I've followed PDH's suggestion of a Sentinel Heavy Flamer in lieu of his right arm...
That DP is coming along great Yggs! I like MajorTom's suggestion of some kind of mouth parts under the head, would definitely cut down on the wall-e look
I'll try a rear shot this evening, I'm leaving home now (sister's birthday)...
As for the cables, I think they are bass strings, but I bought quite a few (guitar, bass, etc...) some months ago, so I don't really remember... I bend them using some pincers, and a lot of patience to bend them a bit at a time...
As for the "belly tubes"... where should they go to? To the "flamer"?
Thanks for the kind words guys! Have a nice sunday!
Well you could always attach it to the "belly-button" on the mini, It is already pitted there so a tube may ideally be placed there, but that is all I have of looking at the mini for a couple of days.
Hyenajoe wrote:I agree with MajorTom and Monkeytroll: this head needs a mouth to break the Wall-e effect, or more precisely mandibles...think of it...Mandibles...
Yeah, I'll have to post some pics of what I tried with the Aberration Prime mandibles, but I don't think it looks that great... You'll let me know...
@ btemple0, tipios :
Well, I came to quite like that Wall-E feel... lol...
But that tubes idea looks quite nice, it might appeal more to me than the mandibles thing... I still don't know, really...
UPDATES :
Well, after a day of ordeals yesterday (shopping all day long ), I think I ultimately found the perfect Discs of Tzeentch.
Rather than letting you down, I've used the first one of Dyathor-Phakr, the first of my Raptor squad, so I think I can say he's finished now...
Yggs, that disc looks awesome under that CSM! I like how you kept the disc close to the ground and not hovering way up high. That guy and your horror CSM are what inspired my most recent CSM you can see in my blog under my sig. Great work, man.
The white stain is pretty easy to get rid of, just take a soft brush and brush it off. He looks great! And I really wanna see that troll finished up, he is looking very spiffy.
@ all : Thanks for the nice comments & for the glue trick, I'll try it as soon as I get back to my workshop... Tomorrow, maybe... I'll first try & brush it with an old toothbrush, then, if not successful, go with a few washes to remove it all...
@ tipios : the armour is painted in Charadon Granite, washed with Gryphonne Sepia / Devlan Mud and highlighted with Graveyard Earth.
@ Moltar : yeah, I had to cut the airbase rod to have him closer to the ground, I'm glad you noticed!
@ tinfoil : I had thought of him as a Raptor, but, depending on the rest of the squad, he'll maybe get upgraded to a Sorcerer... I'll consider that option for sure!! I'm glad you check my blog, for next is a pic of something that was inspired (some would say, utterly stolen ) by your creepy Harrowed! Of course, I didn't manage to get it as well as you, but I hope you'll help me find what's wrong!
@ _Tim? : ask and you shall receive, my friend...
UPDATES :
Went through a GS session today, focused on the Nurgl-E DP... Here's the result so far (beware, poor lighting) :
I'm happy with the cables hanging from his head, it adds a Chtulhu-y feel to it... Maybe I should call him Chtulh-E?
On the other hand, I'm sad I didn't manage to get the tendrils "tinfoil way" as awesome as their model, but I'm not going to scrap it anyway... Let's hope the paint will allow me to catch up!
The tubes hanging down are perfect. Trying to get tendrils to look as amazing as tinfoil's is a mission, I tried it on my nurgle dread, although i'm also happy with it, it dosn't have the same feel as tinfoil's stuff, I'd say you did a good jobon the flammer, and your painting with your painting skills, this is gona look wicked. Thanks for sharing the colour technique I wana try it for my nurgle dread.
Daemonic Wall-E is oooking great! For the flamer arm, it might help if the tendrils actually went somewhere or sprouted from more places? Still, nice job!
My "goal of the week" is to finish that DP, I'll have to forsake my Xbox for this... And my GF has offered her help in allowing me to evade the girly movies on TV for this week too, so I think I can make it!
I voted on Brother Tanaerum, I am in awe of the Sorcerer riding the Discs of Tzeentch, and I am staggered by the Daemon Prince. But not in the good way. I hesitated to say anything because you are so beyond my own skill and you are a true visionary... but much like when your friend starts going out with someone that you think is terrible for them, sometimes you have to put it on the line, speak your mind, and hope for the best.
Please please please replace that head. Or GS around the sensor housing. Or something. Anything. You are so much better than this. The hoses aren't so much an "improvement" as they are a "distraction". It still looks essentially the same. I looked at it and looked at it and I tried to see what the others see and I just can't. I genuinely hate the head on that model.
No disrespect intended at all, I'm sharing my opinion because I truly felt compelled to do so.
This is a great thread! Not only do I get to see excellent sculpting and painting skills, I also get the chance to practice my translation skills. I'm glad that I stumbled across it.
That Chaos Sorcerer is brilliant. Fantatic detailings with the greenstuff and the paint work is amazing. As a big fan of OSL I really like your work and I am looking forwards to seeing your Daemon Prince painted.
The Daemon Prince looks suitably 'Nurglish' with the decaying flesh and metal. The pipes really help to enrich the model and add an extra bit of Papa Nurgle to it.
I like your version of the disc of Tzeentch, but are those models meant to be for raptors or HQ guys, it seems a bit small to be the one the sorcerers tend to ride.
And now your just filling my head full of ideas for what to do with my 2 weeks off in May with the floating disk of tzeenetch
Hey, I hope you'll post pics, it might be a good inspiration too...
Gitsplitta wrote:Outstanding Yggs, and best of all no girly movies this week! Win for all!
monkeytroll wrote:Oh yes, that looks lovely now. Well, not exactly lovely..you know...
Great job!
Well, as mentioned in some dark, unspoken of, and creepy places, "Father Nurgle loves us all"...
Gathering Storm wrote:This is a great thread! Not only do I get to see excellent sculpting and painting skills, I also get the chance to practice my translation skills. I'm glad that I stumbled across it.
That Chaos Sorcerer is brilliant. Fantatic detailings with the greenstuff and the paint work is amazing. As a big fan of OSL I really like your work and I am looking forwards to seeing your Daemon Prince painted.
The Daemon Prince looks suitably 'Nurglish' with the decaying flesh and metal. The pipes really help to enrich the model and add an extra bit of Papa Nurgle to it.
Thanks for your kind comment, GS... I'm not sure I'll be able to have some OSL on the DP though, but rest assured, I'll try!!!
I wasn't sure about the pipes at first, but people (except Skalk, see below), my GF and I seem to love them, so that's a good point, for I couldn't have removed them without ruining the whole mini...
So feel free to follow this thread, your comments are more than welcome!
Sageheart wrote:I like your version of the disc of Tzeentch, but are those models meant to be for raptors or HQ guys, it seems a bit small to be the one the sorcerers tend to ride.
Actually this was supposed to be a Raptor, but I love that mini so much it might be promoted to a Tzeentch Sorcerer/Chaos Lord...
I'm not that fond of the massive Disc the official mini has, so I guess it'll be enough for now...
In the end, it all depends on whether I manage to pull off the same standard on the other Raptors : if the 8 others are of an equal or better standard = Raptor, if not that good = he'll be an HQ...
Skalk Bloodaxe wrote:Wow, I really need to stop by here more often.
I voted on Brother Tanaerum, I am in awe of the Sorcerer riding the Discs of Tzeentch, and I am staggered by the Daemon Prince. But not in the good way. I hesitated to say anything because you are so beyond my own skill and you are a true visionary... but much like when your friend starts going out with someone that you think is terrible for them, sometimes you have to put it on the line, speak your mind, and hope for the best.
Please please please replace that head. Or GS around the sensor housing. Or something. Anything. You are so much better than this. The hoses aren't so much an "improvement" as they are a "distraction". It still looks essentially the same. I looked at it and looked at it and I tried to see what the others see and I just can't. I genuinely hate the head on that model.
No disrespect intended at all, I'm sharing my opinion because I truly felt compelled to do so.
No worries Skalk, I am on the opposite glad you managed to speak your mind!!! My usual post are usually of the "Wow" or "Awesome" kind, and I find it even harder to give a constructive criticism to another's Plog. In addition, we do not only post our minis for being praised, but also with the aim of enjoying the community's experience & skills to improve our own work!
So your post is more than welcome!
As mentioned when I started the DP, I had been inspired by qOrbin's awesome Daemon Prince , and his has a hood over his head... So that where I was heading all along, sorry I haven't mentioned it more clearly...
Here's the result with a hood & a cloth over his left shoulder :
I have struggled much to reach that point, and am not going to do it all over again, so I hope none of you will find it disgusting... Well, disgusting, I do hope, but not in the "badly executed" way...
Thanks guys, will look forward to your wisdom in further improving it...
tinfoil wrote:Nice work. I'm liking the greenstuff technique with the cloak. Seems very ragged, very "real."
(Sent you a pm, btw. Hope it's helpful.)
I'm trying to digest your pm... I think you had already hinted at your technique, but it seems your "unique" skills are meant to remain that way : unique! Do you see anything I've done wrong on my arm? I know it must be hard to put it into words...
The GS technique on the cloak is to put a thin layer as a piece of cloth, then pull it with fingers or a tool until it shreds... Looks good, I agree, but very, very fragile as a consequence... Hopefully, it should remain shielded from aggressions by the pipes & arms!!
If the model had been mine, what I might have done once I'd laid in the various tendrils would be to take an edged sculpting tool (something duller than an x-acto blade, but sharper than a butter knife), wet it, and (before the greenstuff had dried) gently carve each end the tendrils in half lengthwise, making "Y"s out of "l"'s at each end, then nudged the splayed ends into curving shapes and gently mashed them into the model where they join.
Aaak. It is hard to describe verbally. I'll try to put together a step by step version with pictures and post it in a day or so.
I don't mean to sound all superior, though. I really do like and admire what you're creating here with your own techniques.
In looking at it as you progress though, I think the tentacles around the arm flamer are failing to keep up with the standards you are setting with the rest of the piece.
I think this is because the tentacles do not look like they are bearing any weight from the weapon, and with so many going in all directions it is difficult to assign 'functionality' to them mentally, which makes you question their necessity.
What would you think about taking them off, and then putting 2 or 3 larger, more detailed (rat tail pattern) tentacles erupting from the shoulder and either positioned to hold up the gun, or, alternately, simply looking as if they are interfacing with it and infecting it?
First, your disc of Tzeentch is awesome, and I'm glad to see your "test model" finished (Now you have to make a whole squad of them! )
Then, Cthul-E is turning in a way I didn't expect, an amazing way to be more precise! The tentacles/cables are a nice addition and the rags are so realistic! You have to understand that now no-one would allow you to complain about your "poor GSing skills"
This thread really is a great source of inspiration. Thanks for posting so many great things!
You mean... Doing it all over again? I'm not sure I have the strength nor patience for that... I'm pretty sure this would be the right thing to do, but...
In addition, I've already glued the arm on, so it's going to be hard to reach the inner side of the arm... And I'm not sure I could remove eveything cleanly.
But... I'm having a hard time because of you now...
@ Hyenajoe :
I consider having poor GS skills because everything I achieve is due to sheer luck & laws of randomness... Hence the mishaps on the flamer arm... As I have little guess about what will be the outcome of everything I do, I just roam blindly on the waves on uncertainty... Most of the time, it works... Sometimes, I mess up...
As for the Raptor squad, Raptor #2 is already basecoated... I'll try and have a shot a it later...
For now, I'm preparing for my first bass lesson, it's something I've wanted to do for a long, long time... And here it is...
I consider having poor GS skills because everything I achieve is due to sheer luck & laws of randomness... Hence the mishaps on the flamer arm... As I have little guess about what will be the outcome of everything I do, I just roam blindly on the waves on uncertainty... Most of the time, it works... Sometimes, I mess up...
Just like all of us man! Nevertheless, I assure you your GS skills are great
Yggdrasil wrote:As for the Raptor squad, Raptor #2 is already basecoated... I'll try and have a shot a it later...
I can't wait to see it!
Yggdrasil wrote:For now, I'm preparing for my first bass lesson, it's something I've wanted to do for a long, long time... And here it is...
Good luck, you're adventuring yourself in a domain that'll always be unreachable to me...
Yggdrasil wrote:For now, I'm preparing for my first bass lesson, it's something I've wanted to do for a long, long time... And here it is...
Speaking as a musician I can tell you that learning to play an instrument makes you far more attractive to either sex, musicians are just sexier than normal people
Yggdrasil wrote:For now, I'm preparing for my first bass lesson, it's something I've wanted to do for a long, long time... And here it is...
Speaking as a musician I can tell you that learning to play an instrument makes you far more attractive to either sex, musicians are just sexier than normal people
Nah, seriously, good luck
Musicians, maybe, but, come on... Bass players....?
Yggdrasil wrote:Musicians, maybe, but, come on... Bass players....?
Although band regulations state that you should never pass up a chance to belittle bass players I am in fact engaged to my bass player so I may be biased as to the sexiness of the players of said instrument.
Yggdrasil wrote:Musicians, maybe, but, come on... Bass players....?
Although band regulations state that you should never pass up a chance to belittle bass players I am in fact engaged to my bass player so I may be biased as to the sexiness of the players of said instrument.
I don't know much about "band regulations", but I felt the video from GH World Tour was probably an accurate vision of the bass player community... Maybe that's why I feel inclined to go to that instrument...
Yggdrasil wrote:For now, I'm preparing for my first bass lesson, it's something I've wanted to do for a long, long time... And here it is...
Speaking as a musician I can tell you that learning to play an instrument makes you far more attractive to either sex, musicians are just sexier than normal people
Yeah, I can't remember how many girls I got when I played my good old jaw harp!.......................
You got girls by playing Duelling Banjos? on a harp? lol!!
Oh and YGG, the DP hood is a nice GS job, I like it. On the flamer have you considered rolling up more gs to the size of the tendrils you have already done, then putting them over the top of thoses tendrils and slicing them up ramdomly to get it more like tinfoil's stuff?
Yggdrasil wrote:
I consider having poor GS skills because everything I achieve is due to sheer luck & laws of randomness... Hence the mishaps on the flamer arm... As I have little guess about what will be the outcome of everything I do, I just roam blindly on the waves on uncertainty... Most of the time, it works... Sometimes, I mess up...
You just described the entirety of my GS "skill". It's why Papa Nurgle loves me.
Also, thanks for understanding. I hope you can appreciate the apprehension. I walk amongst gods here.
tipios wrote:You got girls by playing Duelling Banjos? on a harp? lol!!
Well, at least I've tried!
Now, back on topic, I think that none of us has 100% accurate GS skills, but we're all trying to do our best to make our models looking good. The only way we can say someone has good GS skills is when his work includes more good things than awfull gak.
By the way, Yggs, did you grab some new modelling tools?
tipios wrote:Oh and YGG, the DP hood is a nice GS job, I like it. On the flamer have you considered rolling up more gs to the size of the tendrils you have already done, then putting them over the top of thoses tendrils and slicing them up ramdomly to get it more like tinfoil's stuff?
No, honestly, I just want to get some paint on him... I'll maybe try some more complicated GS work, as you suggest & as explained (once again) by tinfoil, but not before the next Nurgle guy...
Skalk Bloodaxe wrote:I walk amongst gods here.
The DP It looks a lot better now, btw.
Then you must be the god of Plague Marines Spam lol... Also thanks, I'm glad you like it now...
Hyenajoe wrote:By the way, Yggs, did you grab some new modelling tools?
Erh, no... Still no occasion to go to Paris or even to a normal-sized town... I've been spending more than half of the time away from home lately, so I usually try to enjoy my few moments home...
Your work with the Skaven kits is fantastic! I've got a soft spot for the little rat folk and you've done them justice with some really cool, interesting and very different models. Keep up the good work buddy!
You have done such a great job making him look thoroughly repulsive , only his nurgle morther could love him The raggidy hood and cables add a great deal of movement , i cant wait to see how paint him up.
Yggdrasil wrote:No, of course not, they're just pretending
THATS why its called fantasy! Makes sense now!
Of course it does!!!
neil101 wrote:You have done such a great job making him look thoroughly repulsive , only his nurgle morther could love him The raggidy hood and cables add a great deal of movement , i cant wait to see how paint him up.
Thanks neil... Priming's done, Badab Black wash too... I'm still pondering about the main colours...
btemple0 wrote:I actually finished painting this skaven warlord one time, but then he got slaved into bieng a D&D enemy for boss characters.....
Hope he has some nasty tricks to land upon the unwary characters... as any Skaven should have!
UPDATES :
No pics for today, for yesterday (Feb, 12th) was my birthday, and I didn't get much time to spend on my minis...
Still, I have tried a bit of airbrushing on Raptors #2 & #3, as well as on the DP... I'll show pics tomorrow (I'm on holiday for a week ).
I'm still struggling with the airbrush on the matters of paint consistency & aiming the nozzle at the right part, I think I'll be stuck with my brushes for eternity... * sob, sob *
On a side note, I should get my bass through the mail tomorrow, so I'm really excited about it!!!
What are you having issues with Yggs? Perhaps I can help. Also, is a looped pliers or clamping tweesers in that second shot? Never seen anything like it...
Gitsplitta wrote:What are you having issues with Yggs? Perhaps I can help. Also, is a looped pliers or clamping tweesers in that second shot? Never seen anything like it...
My issues are :
- I cannot find the good consistency with the paint. Usually I use too much water, which leads to the paint dripping over the mini with the air pressure. When I add in some paint to thicken it, it then starts to clog the airbrush itself, and a significant quantity of paint just dries at the tip of the airbrush, which in turns gets troublesome since it's "on or off", but no transition in the paint!
- I cannot seem to aim correctly the burst correctly, and to avoid the aforementioned problem (watery paint pushed by the air pressure), I have to airbrush from a quite important distance, which again leads to a lack of accuracy. On the model above, you can see a large quantity of blue over brown, and vice versa. If I get closer, the paint spreads over the mini due to the pressure, if I get farther, it just spreads far beyond the parts I want to reach...
- Those drying/clotting/clogging issues happen even when I aim at basecoating a mini. For instance, I tried to basecoat my 5 Gutter Runners with Khemri Brown, and before I could start the fourth one, I had to dismantle the airbrush, clean it, then... I got fed up with it. It seems I cannot even speed up the painting with it!
I must definitely be doing something wrong...
As for the pincers, they're indeed some surgical instruments... My GF has been in a firm that develops surgical tools for 2 years now, and she sometimes manages to bring back a few disposable ones... Quite useful for holding the minis while painting them!
Hyenajoe wrote:Joyeux anniversaire!
I can't wait to see your DP done now!
Thanks... I'm still considering the skin colour though...
Yggdrasil wrote: My issues are : - I cannot find the good consistency with the paint. Usually I use too much water, which leads to the paint dripping over the mini with the air pressure. When I add in some paint to thicken it, it then starts to clog the airbrush itself, and a significant quantity of paint just dries at the tip of the airbrush, which in turns gets troublesome since it's "on or off", but no transition in the paint!
Hmmm.... I would suggest getting a bottle of the "valejo air" paint. It is pre-mixed to the right consistency and will: a) give you a chance to practice with perfectly mixed paint, and b) give you an example of the consistency that the paint should be. You know if it does not work well, there's something else wrong that has nothing to do with your paint mix. If you can't find it there, let me know what color you want and I'll send you a bottle.
Also, what are you using as your diluting agent? I've seen people recommend windex, but I never have any luck with it. Distilled water seems to be a very benign diluent and works well.
- I cannot seem to aim correctly the burst correctly, and to avoid the aforementioned problem (watery paint pushed by the air pressure), I have to airbrush from a quite important distance, which again leads to a lack of accuracy. On the model above, you can see a large quantity of blue over brown, and vice versa. If I get closer, the paint spreads over the mini due to the pressure, if I get farther, it just spreads far beyond the parts I want to reach... - Those drying/clotting/clogging issues happen even when I aim at basecoating a mini. For instance, I tried to basecoat my 5 Gutter Runners with Khemri Brown, and before I could start the fourth one, I had to dismantle the airbrush, clean it, then... I got fed up with it. It seems I cannot even speed up the painting with it!
I'll consider these together as my suggestions relate to both.
I've had the aiming issue myself from time-to-time... in my opinion it's related to the fouling of the tip of the needle at the collar, the fouling causes the paint to flow unevenly around the needle tip and causes it to go off in odd directions (my theory... take it for what it's worth.
Keep in mind that even with all of the painting I've done with my airbrush, I have yet to take it apart to clean it. I will eventually... but it's not been necessary yet. I clean it a lot... but have not disassembled it.
So, to the point... - Check the specs on your airbrush & make sure you're running it within the recommended PSI. My Talon runs at 20-50. I can dial it down to about 15 psi which helps me with finer work, but the droplets get bigger and more obvious when I do this so it's a trade-off.
- The way I clean my brush and needle is easy and fast. 1. Run roughly 1/3 of a cup (1.5 ml) of your solvent (windex for me) through the brush, swish it a bit to clean the loose stuff off the bowl. 2. Dip the ends of a cotten swab in solvent and use them to rub the semi-dried paint off the sides of the bowl. DO NOT do this if there is liquid in the bowl as the little bits you rub off will drift down into the mechanism and mess up your needle. Make sure all the chunks come out with your swabs. 3. Pour more solvent (same amount) into the bowl and dip another cotten swab in solvent (I just dip both ends into the solvent in the now clean bowl) and spray about half of it out full blast. 4. Take the swab and gently place it over the needle. Spin it around a few times, you'll be amazed at the gunk this picks up. 5. Repeat with the other end of the swab, second swab should be pretty clean looking when done. 6. Spray out the remainder of the solution, spraying it in pulses will help knock anything left in the needle chamber loose & when done, spray air for a few seconds to dry things out inside.
Viola! You're done! It's probably a good idea to disassemble and clean your brush more often than I do... but this system has kept me spraying cleanly for quite a while now... 6 weeks at least.
Some of your issues (#2) might be related to trying to do too fine a deatil of work with too large a needle and without a fine enough touch on the trigger. I just purchased a #1 (0.25 mm) needle and tip for my brush (cost like... $11 total) to help me paint individual figures. I was able to do some finer work on Inushi with my current #2 needle (0.32 mm I think) but it took a really fine touch on the trigger and I had to dial down the pressure to 15 psi.
You could also try an an alternate brush stroke. Rather than giving a constant spray, you pull back on the trigger, then release... once per pass. I've done this when working on smaller figures and it does help control the over-spray leading to paint drip. It also lets the paint dry just a bit in between spray pulses.
Matt, tipios : Thanks!!! Be patient, it's on its way... Well, maybe...
Gitsplitta wrote:Hmmm.... I would suggest getting a bottle of the "valejo air" paint. It is pre-mixed to the right consistency and will: a) give you a chance to practice with perfectly mixed paint, and b) give you an example of the consistency that the paint should be. You know if it does not work well, there's something else wrong that has nothing to do with your paint mix. If you can't find it there, let me know what color you want and I'll send you a bottle.
Also, what are you using as your diluting agent? I've seen people recommend windex, but I never have any luck with it. Distilled water seems to be a very benign diluent and works well.
I'm using the GW paints, but maybe they're out of their capabilities with the airbrush... Oh, also, I forgot to mention the only airbrush I have access to is one I borrowed from a friend, so it's not a long-term gear I have... So I'm not going to buy any upgrade for it, as I don't know for how long I'll be using it...
I'll maybe try to order some of Vallejo Air paints.. That's very nice of you Git, but I don't want you to go through sending me some paints... I can find them on the internet without much trouble, hopefully...
As for the diluting agent, well... Is tap water a leniency?!?
Gitsplitta wrote:
I'll consider these together as my suggestions relate to both.
I've had the aiming issue myself from time-to-time... in my opinion it's related to the fouling of the top of the needle which pushes the paint unevenly around the point or through the needle collar.
Keep in mind that even with all of the painting I've done with my airbrush, I have yet to take it apart to clean it. I will eventually... but it's not been necessary yet. I clean it a lot... but have not disassembled it.
So, to the point...
- Check the specs on your airbrush & make sure you're running it within the recommended PSI. My Talon runs at 20-50. I can dial it down to about 15 psi which helps me with finer work, but the droplets get bigger and more obvious when I do this so it's a trade-off.
- The way I clean my brush and needle is easy and fast.
1. Run roughly 1/3 of a cup (1.5 ml) of your solvent (windex for me) through the brush, swish it a bit to clean the loose stuff off the bowl.
2. Dip the ends of a cotten swab in solvent and use them to rub the semi-dried paint off the sides of the bowl. DO NOT do this if there is liquid in the bowl as the little bits you rub off will drift down into the mechanism and mess up your needle. Make sure all the chunks come out with your swabs.
3. Pour more solvent (same amount) into the bowl and dip another cotten swab in solvent (I just dip both ends into the solvent in the now clean bowl) and spray about half of it out full blast.
4. Take the swab and gently place it over the needle. Spin it around a few times, you'll be amazed at the gunk this picks up.
5. Repeat with the other end of the swab, second swab should be pretty clean looking when done.
6. Spray out the remainder of the solution, spraying it in pulses will help knock anything left in the needle chamber loose & when done, spray air for a few seconds to dry things out inside.
Viola! You're done! It's probably a good idea to disassemble and clean your brush more often than I do... but this system has kept me spraying cleanly for quite a while now... 6 weeks at least.
Some of your issues (#2) might be related to trying to do too fine a deatil of work with too large a needle and without a fine enough touch on the trigger. I just purchased a #1 (0.25 mm) needle and tip for my brush (cost like... $11 total) to help me paint individual figures. I was able to do some finer work on Inushi with my current #2 needle (0.32 mm I think) but it took a really fine touch on the trigger and I had to dial down the pressure to 15 psi.
You could also try an an alternate brush stroke. Rather than giving a constant spray, you pull back on the trigger, then release... once per pass. I've done this when working on smaller figures and it does help control the over-spray leading to paint drip. It also lets the paint dry just a bit in between spray pulses.
Hope there's something there you can use.
How can you determine the pressure on the airbrush? The compressor I use only has on/off, and I can only adjust the pressure through carefully pushing the airbrush trigger, but I'm not soft enough to reach a good, progressive burst... As I said, it's usually either stop / full ahead! Does your airbrush have a lever that allows you to regulate the pressure?
As for the cleaning, I seem to have that kind of problem only with the thickest Foundation paints : I used Necron Abyss this morning with little problem regarding the cleaning, but still many regarding the burst width & pressure...
Your advice on cleaning was really helpful, thanks! As for the rest of the airbrushing techniques... I'm about to consider myself lost for good...
Thanks for taking the time to give some insights...
Yggdrasil wrote:I'm using the GW paints, but maybe they're out of their capabilities with the airbrush...
Regular GW paints should work, but you have to be careful as the paint dries out in the pots and the chunks can fall back into the body of the pot, these chunks can then get into your spray mix and screw up your needle. Nice thing about the Valejo paints (even the normal, non-air ones) is that they come in dropper bottles... so there is no drying of paint in the container. Also, in my experience, GW washes and base colors do not work in an airbrush.
How can you determine the pressure on the airbrush? The compressor I use only has on/off, and I can only adjust the pressure through carefully pushing the airbrush trigger, but I'm not soft enough to reach a good, progressive burst... As I said, it's usually either stop / full ahead! Does your airbrush have a lever that allows you to regulate the pressure?
I suspect this is the root of your problems. I can't imagine spraying blindly when you have no control over the pressure going to the brush, or even know the pressure going to the brush! You need a gauge and valve combination with a water trap. This connects into the pipe coming out of your compressor and allows you to dial the exact pressure going to your brush as well has catching the condensation that can cause spatter of your paint. In the US you can get them for about $25.00.
As for the cleaning, I seem to have that kind of problem only with the thickest Foundation paints : I used Necron Abyss this morning with little problem regarding the cleaning, but still many regarding the burst width & pressure.
As stated earlier, foundation paints do not work well with an airbrush due to their formulation. I do not recommend it.
Your advice on cleaning was really helpful, thanks! As for the rest of the airbrushing techniques... I'm about to consider myself lost for good... Thanks for taking the time to give some insights...
No problem. I didn't ask... to you have a single action or double action airbrush? Single actions are really only good for base coating or directional highlighting (i.e. spraying lighter shade from top) as you don't have fine enough control over the flow of paint. As to tap water vs. distilled water... I don't know. Have always seen distilled water mentioned. I assume the impurities in regular water just hasten fouling of the needle. In any case, do not judge all airbrushes by your current experience... it sounds like you are using equipment that is not well suited to the task you have for it.
Gitsplitta wrote: Regular GW paints should work, but you have to be careful as the paint dries out in the pots and the chunks can fall back into the body of the pot, these chunks can then get into your spray mix and screw up your needle. Nice thing about the Valejo paints (even the normal, non-air ones) is that they come in dropper bottles... so there is no drying of paint in the container. Also, in my experience, GW washes and base colors do not work in an airbrush.
Ok for the paint. I just ordered half a dozen Vallejo Air off ebay, maybe it'll help... Or not!
Gitsplitta wrote: I suspect this is the root of your problems. I can't imagine blind spraying as you have no control over what your brush is doing. You need to get a gauge and valve combination with a water trap. This connects into the pipe coming out of your compressor and allows you to dial the exact pressure going to your brush as well has catching the condensation that can cause spatter of your paint. In the US you can get them for about $25.00.
Ok, this is probably it. I was always wondering why everyone kept mentioning the "PSI" measurements while explaining their airbrushing and how did they do it, I guess I got my answer now
Gitsplitta wrote: No problem. I didn't ask... to you have a single action or double action airbrush? Single actions are really only good for base coating or directional highlighting (i.e. spraying lighter shade from top) as you don't have fine enough control over the flow of paint.
That's a double-action, but as I said... I cannot seem to control it in a good way, even in one direction, so the combination of the 2 axes makes me crazy!!!
Gitsplitta wrote: In any case, do not judge all airbrushes by your current experience... it sounds like you are using equipment that is not well suited to the task you have for it.
Actually, I thought it was a bit easy to blame the equipment rather than questioning my own skills, but your gauge/valve regulation thing probably proves me wrong... I hope that's all there is to get, and that when I get one, the results will be better!
Thanks again for the efforts Git...
@ _Tim? : Thanks!!! That was the same for me, and now, at 27, I finally have one!!! You can never be too late!
See if you can get a used Iwata, Badger, or Paasche airbrush, and get a diaphragm air compresser that goes up to about a continuous 30psi during operation. For thinning I use a misture of Distilled water and Liquitex Flow-Aid at a 10:1 ratio. When it comes to spraying the foundations, I have had mixed success, primarily using Iyanden Darksun, but then again yellows are already miserably thin in the pigment department.
Also If you manage to get a used airbrush make sure to buy some replacement parts for it, nozzles seem to suffer metal fatigue fairly easy, and a bent needle is useless.
Thanks for the help, btemple! I think I'll consider "gearing up" when I come back from my deployment, at the end of the year... Until then, I'll just use the borrowed airbrush as a basecoater.
Not much work on the WIP guys, it seems motivation has quite waned these last days.
But I've been doing some kitbashing for an Ironclad Dread, and it was the first time I tried to magnetize a model... I think I didn't spoil the efforts, they should work alright!
Don't get excited though, as it was my first attempt, I didn't go insane : just the right arm (Hurricane Boltguns vs DCCW) and the 2 HK missiles (just the missiles, not the whole cell, in order to show whether they've been fired or not).
I haven't planned any pics, but it might be possible if asked for...
btemple0 wrote:Also see about investing in some vallejo air primer, it works pretty well from the tutorials I have seen.
Wow, too late... Maybe later, I guess...
UPDATE :
I've finally given in to Gitsplitta's forceful demand about an OSL tutorial...
I'll be working on it these next days as I'm away from home for two weeks, but with a limited access to internet...
I don't want to leave you with nothing to see, so I'll share these as teasers...
I took the PIP pics on the backpack only, which seems wasn't maybe the best choice, as the OSL on the chest looks better IMHO... But before starting, I thought the left arm would hinder both the painting & the picturing, so concentrated instead on the backpack... I hope it will show nevertheless...
Also, I usually disable the voting on the WIP pics, but I made an exception about the 2 ones on the right... So if you have little time writing a comment, please at least vote on them, it will be a nice indicator!!!
In addition, a quick pick of the other Raptor, who saw his claw painted today as well...
Amazing, you definitely deserve your place on 'the list'
p.s, nice Fender Jazz, I preferred that style neck too, and so it was the one I got . You will quickly outgrow the lil'amp though, it will be fine while you jam on your own, but if you start playing with other people you will need something that will rumble a few more plates in the kitchen
When that happens, I recommend Ampeg, and if you want to fiddle with effects to go for that Muse type vibe, Akai peddles are the best for that kind of sound.
Gitsplitta wrote:Wonderful Yggs, very excited to see the tutorial and that marine is looking just awesome! Good luck on your trip!
Yeah, don't expect wonders uh...
PsychosisPC wrote:That's a cool look so far.
Thanks!
IceAngel wrote:Awesome as always Yggs, btw I like your new avatar. (at least I think its new) When do we get to see an entire unit of your Reavers?
Thanks, IceAngel, coming from you it's a great compliment!! Yeah, I changed the avatar yesterday evening, for a change... As for the Revaers... I hope I could be able to get 1 squad before I leave in April, but I'm not optimistic...
MajorTom11 wrote:Amazing, you definitely deserve your place on 'the list'
p.s, nice Fender Jazz, I preferred that style neck too, and so it was the one I got . You will quickly outgrow the lil'amp though, it will be fine while you jam on your own, but if you start playing with other people you will need something that will rumble a few more plates in the kitchen
When that happens, I recommend Ampeg, and if you want to fiddle with effects to go for that Muse type vibe, Akai peddles are the best for that kind of sound.
As for the bass, it's going to be for solo, house playing only, so no worries about the amp... It's already strong enough for my GF's ears !! (but she doesn't care much about the plates lol) Thanks for the advice though...
tinfoil wrote:Looks very promising, Yggs. Looking forward to watching the new CSM take shape. And to your OSL tutorial.
He's supposed to wield a boltgun, but I may change that to a meltagun... Not so sure... I think boltgun will be fine (and I cannot equip my 9 Havocs with special weapons anyway!!! ) Thanks!
P.S. Enjoy that bass. I know I thoroughly enjoyed mine, though I haven't picked it up in over 3 years. Man do I miss it. Days are too short I tells ya.
Hyenajoe wrote:Thank you Gitsplitta for convincing Yggs to make a tutorial
OSL is tempting but I still fear my attemps would end in a dirty mess.
Yggdrasil, your second raptor looks fething good, and I really can't wait to see the full squad done
OSL (Object Source Lighting) tutorial is almost over... Along with some help & advice from fellow DCMs... It might be online this weekend, who knows...
bunnygurl wrote:Great work. Beautiful colors and OSL.
P.S. Enjoy that bass. I know I thoroughly enjoyed mine, though I haven't picked it up in over 3 years. Man do I miss it. Days are too short I tells ya.
Wow, can't believe it's been 2 months since I last updated this!!!
This will be the final update before my deployment in Afghanistan in two days (hence the lack of work on my minis, due to a lot of things to do before a 7-months journey).
This is the second member of my Tzeentch Havoc squad, fiercely "changing the ways" of his foes' lives with his bolter (stolen from a Dark Angel) :
Thank you guys, there are a few things I'm not too happy about (the red symbol on the im-purity seal, the yellow feather which stands out too much, etc...) but I wanted to finish it before leaving...
@graven : speaking about creepy, nice to see your "grin" is back! (TBH, I cannot manage to remember the temporary one you used)
Looks great Yggs! Good luck on your 7 month "vacation". I hope you learn some amazing Afghanistan painting styles, I mean that is what you're going over there for right?
Your work is amazing. I really like the demon beast on the priviouse page. a freind of mine is back from Afgansitan. Take care while you are over there.
Oooooo pretty model. I have to say the cloak is great and for your peace of mind the feather looks good, as in he has just picked it up etc. Doesn't look bad is what I've trying to say.
Good luck with your move....I hope you get some down time to paint.
Great blending on the cape. The brushwork looks very neat, the colors are cleanly divided from each other as far as I can see. And good luck in Afghanistan as well.
Biggest threat so far has been the sun, my face & neck are all but sunburnt!!!
Though in the French area of responsibility, we get a lot of support from the US troops in here, and the almost constant ballet of Chinooks, Apaches & Kiowas is always a nice thing to see!!! Nine US soldiers were killed in Kabul just one hour before we hit the capital's ground, I feel very sorry for your loss.
On the bright side of things, I have been blessed with a tiny but practical room, with both a table & a window, and my hobby supplies all hit home already, so I'll probably be able to get to work on some minis quite quickly! As soon as the dust has settled, that is.
On another matter, Afghanistan is even more beautiful in person than on the numerous pics I had seen... It's just too bad the population cannot be convinced to resort to tourism rather than insurrection & drug dealing to make a living.
Hey Yggs! Glad to see you made it there and have a chance to work on your projects even away from home.
A friend of mine came back from a year tour in Afghanistan in December. He was working on Imperial Guard and has real Afghan dirt stuck in some of his models. Ha. He said he is working on a 40K campaign based on his tour there. All terrain is difficult, dangerous, or impassable.
have to mention I finally started my Cult. Just sayin'...
Man I'm glad you're able to post. Looking forward to seeing your "deployment projects", but more importantly looking forward to you getting home.
Hey Yggs happy to see more OSL stuff- I can use it for reference on my own work.
Sad to see you leave though- I hope you stay safe over there and come back. We'll hold down the fort for you while you're gone though, and hopefully you'll have access to see some of our stuff if you're too busy to inspire us with your own!
By the way, don't resent me if I don't comment as much as I would like on yours, as I have much less time than a few months back!!
I hope I'll be more productive while I'm here, not being "wayward-ed" by the real, civililan life... Though my buying a new computer for the tour will probably take a good chunk of my spare time (I finally got to run Dawn of War II!!!!).
Glad you're back on Dakka and as safe as you can be where you are right now. I think the idea of a separate plog is kind of cool. I can't exactly explain why really, I just do. A convincing argument I'm sure.
In any case it doesn't matter where you post so long as you do.
How do you want me to even consider that?!? My 
Thx a lot!
nasty 
Great job!
)
) Thanks!
