Just for starters I used the white foundation today, over a black undercoat it went over in 2 coats (and 1 gave acceptable coverage), which I found fairly impressive.
Also the new red ink is darker than Baal red
and, the blue ink is MUCH darker (and almost smoky) when compared to asurmen blue, lets just hope there is another one which is a closer match
(did a side by side earlier on both of these earlier today)
The new base red is very nice (and similar to blood red), but way different to mechrite.
Finally the texture paints.... they seem good but... will need multiple coats, I forsee them being quite useful for mudding up tanks etc.
Back on topic, Sirius42, you said that white foundation covered black in only 2 coats.
Did you apply the paint straight from the pot or did you add water first? This second question is a bit redundant but how thick was the coat of paint in the end?
Thanks in advance for answering me, that little pot of white really intrigues me!
The closing lid problem: NOW EVEN WORSE! Was basing some green on my kroot and had to physically open the lid every time. I think they did this for the people who pour out paint onto an mixing patter. Smart..... Gets people to waste their pant.....
The colors are much darker. they are also overall thinner. The paints are now set up that you do have to use each step.
These paints are a god send for the golden deamon style painters. They are very nice and you do have to go over each model several times with different paints to get a desired effect.
The people, like me, that are looking to be able to go over with a thicker coat of paint to smooth out edges or dimples are going to hate this paint.
The dry brush paints are interesting. They work well, but you have to have a fairly stiff brush and plan on messing up the first few times you use it. I would still recommend them though.
OVERALL OPINION:
If you are a thinning out, color adder, 20 layer, every model has to be perfect kind of painter then you are going to love these paints
If you are just starting out painting, or are used to old paints and how to work with them, you may not like them like myself.
Worth a try, But do not go out and buy 30 pots until you have used them.
It should be noted, however, that this conversion chart should be taken with a grain of salt.
For example: Mephiston Red, which is given as the old Mechrite Red equivalent, is way brighter than Mechrite Red. I wasn´t able to get a good enough look at the other colors yet to determin if they are better matches, but if you absolutely need a certain shade of color you better hurry and get it while it´s still available.
Annother question I have:
Does anyone know if the Brush-on Primer is actually a Primer? The spray cans (not actually declared as primer afaik) are or were at least only Chaos Black without any primer characteristics.
Back on topic, Sirius42, you said that white foundation covered black in only 2 coats.
Did you apply the paint straight from the pot or did you add water first?
This second question is a bit redundant but how thick was the coat of paint in the end?
Thanks in advance for answering me, that little pot of white really intrigues me!
That was straight from the pot. All the paints are a bit thinner, apparently they've intentionally designed them all to be used straight from the pot, no thinning required. I have to say the white gave a very smooth coat. On the issue of lids, those who were saying they didn't stay open were you using pots with the new 'shark fin' as I found these stayed open no probs (was told this fin cost £30k to develop, if so someone is laughing smugly after making some easy money.
I'm going to buy the white tomorrow so I will take a pic after its been used. In fact that's not a bad idea, to all buying new paints if you can put up side by sides of new vs old ( maybe a couple of coats over white) would give us all a better idea of how accurate the conversion table is, Ill put mine up when I've bought some.
I.ve only used the bright green one and it was fine, cant think what i'd ever do with it but it works, in white dwarf a guy painted eldar guardians by just putting on multiple glazes and the result was quite nice but we'll see.
here you go, Agrax Earth Shade and Devlan Mud are compared next to each other, amongst other duplicate colours i picked up today. Notice how the new sotek green is infact nowhere near as good at covering as my early 90's hawk turquoise. I didnt have a Hawk Turquoise from the recent range to compare it to, sorry. edit; oh and the grainy texture you can see in the devlan mud / agrax earth shade is just the heavy cartridge paper that I painted it onto.
Back on topic, Sirius42, you said that white foundation covered black in only 2 coats.
Did you apply the paint straight from the pot or did you add water first?
This second question is a bit redundant but how thick was the coat of paint in the end?
Thanks in advance for answering me, that little pot of white really intrigues me!
That was straight from the pot. All the paints are a bit thinner, apparently they've intentionally designed them all to be used straight from the pot, no thinning required. I have to say the white gave a very smooth coat. On the issue of lids, those who were saying they didn't stay open were you using pots with the new 'shark fin' as I found these stayed open no probs (was told this fin cost £30k to develop, if so someone is laughing smugly after making some easy money.
I'm going to buy the white tomorrow so I will take a pic after its been used. In fact that's not a bad idea, to all buying new paints if you can put up side by sides of new vs old ( maybe a couple of coats over white) would give us all a better idea of how accurate the conversion table is, Ill put mine up when I've bought some.
The closing lid problem: NOW EVEN WORSE! Was basing some green on my kroot and had to physically open the lid every time. I think they did this for the people who pour out paint onto an mixing patter. Smart..... Gets people to waste their pant.....
The closing lid problem will be solved soon, they are just using up old pots at the moment. The newer ones have a little fin thing to keep the lid open
I did notice that the new paints are in a mix of new and old pots now. I guessed they're just running old stock out, which makes good sense - I'm all for global conservation where atall possible (gripe on finecast not being remoldable hence they now waste miscast material unlike the metals which can be remelted and used again and again untill its right)
The brand new pot design has a little fin that will hold the lid open (if opened fully and correctly). Not only does it hold the lid open, it does so far enough open so that the little paint dispensing area does not contact the rim of the pot. I guess that should help reduce how much paint makes its way up into the seal. Also brand new pots are now sealed, you have to break the lid open. This will eliminate any chance of getting a used pot, and should equate to a brand new pot always being the same consistency rather than getting thicker and thicker the longer no-one buys it!
One thing that concerns me is that this is the first time that GW have deemed it neccessary to seal the pots properly, does that mean that the new paint formula will dry out in the pot too quickly once the seal is broken, or are they just being considerate time will tell.
Personally I couldn't give a toss about this fin, as I use a pallette, and always close my paints up as quickly as possible. I do that because upon getting back into the hobby, I dug my old paints out. A full set of the screw top pots(late 90's) (every single colour they did) all dried out, while paint from before that in flip top pots, hexagonal(mid 90's), and round(early 90's) and unlabeled(80's) remains perfectly usable to this day. Some are 2 decades old! While everysingle colour from the late 90's is unusable because the pots sucked basically.
I'll experiment more tomorrow, but I love the new shades. They flow into recesses without pooling and are much more noticable than the older ones. Carroberg Crimson poops onto Baal Red from a great height.
I noticed the new pots have a bigger lip to make them easier to open, they have that little hook on the back of the hinge too. The ones I bought also were sealed with perforated 'tabs' along the base of the lid that you rip open to first get into the paint. A good way of seeing if it's a new pot or not.
Mephiston Red is nice, but over a black undercoat it's certainly not the one-coat miracle red some made it out to be. Much better than Blood Red, but still not quite what GW would have you believe. I'd take the one-coat thing with a pinch of salt, particularly if you're a paint thinner downer.
Oh and for what it's worth, the dimple on top of the lid stands out much more than it did - pots now stack upon each other a lot easier. Possibly pointless outside of the paint rack at GW, but something I noticed.
Quick colour comparison: Old Camo Green VS New Elysian Green. Conclusion: Paint seems a bit thinner, pot is superior, colour... pretty much identical as far as I can make out. Certainly close enough for me and my Camo Green Cygnar army.
np, They are reasonably close. The most notably different is bleached bone and ushabti bone. Personally I usualy use that colour for drybrushing or mixing in to make highlight colours. So the difference will show even less. The actual differecne is that the new one is a richer tone of the same colour, you could say that its a tiny bit (a few % maybe) more brown. I think a spot of white into Ushabti Bone would make it spot on tbh.
Just used the Imperial Primer. It has less of a sheen and a bit more matte than say Chaos Black out of the pot. Has no grainy texture compared to my Duplicolor sandable primer so can't say how much "bite" it'll have on paint. All in all, I would say it could pass as a decent brush on primer.
I used Ceramite White on the underside of a Razorwing Jetfighter, over a black primer. First coat was streaky as hell, but the 2nd coat seems quite a lot smoother. I still think it'll need a third coat, but considering it's a) painting over black and b) painting on very large flat surfaces that isn't too bad. Certainly better than Skull White.
Nuln Oil seems almost the same as Badab Black but sits in the recesses better. It also doesn't seem to pool as much on flat surfaces.
Sotek Green is similar to Hawk Turquoise but a little more blue in tint. Seems to apply brilliantly though, everything I've used it on so far has been smooth after one coat!
Mephiston Red is very smooth but much brighter than Mechrite Red. To be honest it's close to Blood Red (minus the millions of coats needed for a smooth finish).
Leadbelcher looks to be duller than Boltgun Metal and the paint (to me at least) seems thinner despite being a base paint. Regardless, it covers pretty well.
Hashut Copper is pretty close to Dwarf Bronze, but there is a definite difference (Copper seems to have more brown in it).
Abaddon Black is the only paint so far I'm not impressed with. Whether it's just my pot is a bad one I'm not sure but it seems very thin; it paints on more like a layer paint than a base. Could just be a bad pot, not sure.
MeanGreenStompa wrote:Anyone using them in airbrushes yet?
I sprayed a bit of Agrax Earthshade this evening... tbh it felt no different to Devlan Mud. Havent tryed an opaque colour from the new line yet, but I'm not expecting any issues.
Does anyone have a review for Necron Abyss vs. Kantor blue yet? I looked at the color in store, but I'm really iffy about it because it looks so much lighter.
I have about 25 pots of the new paints, including 4 Shades, 1 Drybrush, Imperial Primer, 1 Texture and the rest split between Bases and Layers. So far things are favorable for me, but no substantive pictures just yet. I should have them soon.
I've been working on my Dreadfleet models, working particularly with The Dwarf Battleship, the Khemri Ship, and the Chaos Dwarf sub... lots of metallics on these ones. I had already painted most of these models using Tin Bitz as the base metallic for the golds, but today I realized I had missed a few spots. So I decided to try out Balthazar Gold.
It went on very smoothly, which is good, has a sheen similar to tin bitz... but the real difference came when I was applying Shining Gold over it.
I found that when painting on the Shining Gold, when it came to the parts that had been painted with Tin Bitz, I've always had to coax paint onto the model, or apply it a few times to get it to stick properly. With the same mix, applied over the Balthazar Gold, the paint went over smoothly with basically one application. I think that's something to pay attention to....
So far I like what I see. A very quick yellow is painting Ceramite White (Base) and then applying Casandora Yellow as the shade, and you have a great looking yellow. Just be warned, Casandora Yellow looks orange in the pot, but it really is a yellow Shade.
That pic was before I added my usual concoction of retarder and flo-aid/water mix, which smoothed out the white and red a nice bit, haven't thinned the yellow yet.
I'm quite liking the new paints. Here's my project for the weekend. Almost entirely the new paints, excepting the blue. Mephiston Red +Carroburg Crimson is winning. This is one coat over a white base.
Ceramite white is rather nice, two coats of it makes black into clean white. I really like the drybrush paints, they're very good at what they do. Necron Compound looks fantastic over black, though it's not as clear in the images.
I have not used the new paints yet... But did any other store have a problem with the paints showing up with the lids not all sealed down tightly? A bunch of ours had the lids open a bit. My Guess is the shrink wrap was pulling the lids open.
jazzpaintball wrote:
The people, like me, that are looking to be able to go over with a thicker coat of paint to smooth out edges or dimples are going to hate this paint.
That's not what paint is for. That's part of the clean up and prep stage.
Ok so i've played with the reds, in general I'm finding that the paints all seem to have more of a matte finish, Argax (the new devlan) tends to do the same thing as devlan but it has more of a stain, same for the carroburg, so I'm thinking that a more targeted application of both is required, no more dunking i think, tomorrow i'll post pics side by side of devlan and argax over mechrite (as its the basis of all cloth in my undead army).
I'm doing a blood angel using new paints for the red, will put it up when i'm done (hopefully tomorrow) I'm using targeted washing rather than dipping (which I usually do) so we will see how it turns out, i'll put it next to the one I did using old paints and dipping, the new is a lot brighter but you can make your own decisions.
yeah i agree with the targeting approach to the new shades and glazes...actually i really like the glazes.
had my bloodletters done rather nicelly, i was really happy with them using the old paints. one of the guys in store thought that it might be cool to try the new red glaze on them to make them look wet n make them pop, so we gave it a shot, nd yeah it was good but he did it over the whole model, liek i would have withthe old washes, nd it wasn't as wet as i thought it would be, definatelly brightened it up a bit but it stained some of the whiter highlights i had on the model that i was really fond of.
next we tried targeting specific parts of the bloodletters (another model this time) nd i think it came out really well, we kept the whiter highlights, popped the parts we glazed, they really came out nice n red and gave it a whole other bright tone and it didn't affeect the shaded areas at all.
so all in all i'm redoing my entire army with targeted glazing (since they are daemons is makes sence)
also i have the technical lamhime medium which i have found to work really really well with the old paints, yeah its' basically just a thinner but it lets you mix colors really well too into new shades/washes. My fav application is using it with metals, thin them to a wash and apply over a layer for a little extra dimension then shade n glaze. very nice subtle effects.
Been playing with the new paints since Saturday - I'm really impressed, tbh. My first impression is that they make painting really easy as you see progress very quickly. So much so that I've finished more minis this weekend than I have in 3 months, 2 of them completely from primer. I really like the shades (washes) and the bases are very solid. I'll try and get some pics up to show the results.
Can anyone give us a rundown on the new gold metallics? Orki mentioned the silvers are a downgrade and more flaky. I haven't heard anything about the new golds though. Thanks ahead of time!
Compel wrote:I don't understand GW's new suggestion for the washes of putting them after the basecoat but before the layers.
I usually use a wash after I've completed a whole model to try to blend the highlights together again
I think that putting the wash on after the basecoat would be considered using a Shade under the new terminology, while the layer to tie the highlights together would be a glaze.
GW is confusing. The Khorne Berzerker & Bloodletter has you painting Khorne Red, then layering and covering most of the model in Wazdakka Red, then doing highlights with Squig Orange. Basecoat, layer covering almost everything, then edge highlights (for Bloodletter only - for Berzerker, it shows Khorne Red washed Carroburg Crimson and then 2 layers of edge highlight, leaving Khorne Red as main color...so weird)
The example in the crap book for Aurora Chapter has you basecoat Waagh Flesh, then cover the whole model in Warpstone Glow, then wash Coelia Green, then reapply Warpstone Glow, then do edge highlights with Moot Green. Base coat, layer 1, wash, layer 1, edge h/l with layer 2.
They also did this with the Space Wolf tutorial in White Dwarf (hmm 2 months in a row...1 with old paint 1 with new...hmmm...). Basecoat The Fang, Basecoat Russ Grey, wash Agrax Earthshade, reapply Russ grey, then do edge highlights with Fenrisian Grey.
I really like the glazes so far. Tried yellow and red and they added some nice rich tone to those colors. They aren't quite the same as washes, less likely to run into the crevices.
Averland yellow airbrushed very nicely when properly thinned.
I'm bummed about devlan mud's replacement. It's not supposed to stain as much as it does. Devlan was amazing and I hate to see it go :(
Rogues Gambit wrote:yeah i agree with the targeting approach to the new shades and glazes
Targeting? For shades, formerly known as washes? Targeting approach? So what you are saying is that the new 'washes' are a horrible, awful step down from the current product????
I've used the new version of Tin Bitz which is called Warplock Bronze and have to say it's absolutely fine. The colour is basically exactly the same as the old Tin Bitz even though GW's own colour chart shows it as more of a purple(ish) colour. It also behaves in the same way for me - I drybrushed it onto an undercoated model which is how I used to use Tin Bitz. Bottom line, I'm very please with Warplock Bronze.
Rogues Gambit wrote:yeah i agree with the targeting approach to the new shades and glazes
Targeting? For shades, formerly known as washes? Targeting approach? So what you are saying is that the new 'washes' are a horrible, awful step down from the current product????
Not a horrible step down, but different, you do not have to target with new Devlan as much as you do with new Baal. If you read a lot of the older painting guides most of them suggest targeting washes, my guess was that this was always the intent, but the older ones forgave it more.
Rogues Gambit wrote:yeah i agree with the targeting approach to the new shades and glazes
Targeting? For shades, formerly known as washes? Targeting approach? So what you are saying is that the new 'washes' are a horrible, awful step down from the current product????
Not a horrible step down, but different ... If you read a lot of the older painting guides most of them suggest targeting washes, my guess was that this was always the intent, but the older ones forgave it more.
So it is a horrible step down, for the large number of people who wash a whole model with mud or black wash. I liked GW washes precisely because they would shade the crevices, and not just glaze the whole model. If the new 'shades' are more glaze-like than the old wash formulas, that is bad. ESPECIALLY since GW also came out with glazes. If anything their shades should have been less glaze-like than the old washes. Another boneheaded move here by GW, if this is true, as the washes were the best products they had.
I think it varies from shade to shade, you can dip with argax and the green, I would'nt with the red though, i'm yet to use nuln oil so someone else will have to decide on that one.
I picked up a 40k basing kit today in hopes of using it to add some flair to my tyranid bases along with two pots of astrogranite texture paint. Needless to say, the basing kit is getting exchanged tomorrow as astrogranite does the trick all by its self.
I have to say after watching this review I disagree about the layers, they're no thinner than you'd normally thin paint to anyway. In addition, they thicken up nicely if you just leave a little on a pallet. The bases are meant IMO as a replacement for the foundations, which can also be used as normal, whereas the layers are just normal paints. I have yet to use the dry paints yet as I don't do drybrushing.
Ok so a couple of points of view from me.
Firstly myself, I decided to grab the orc skin colour scheme this weekend (sans dry) to paint up some old Blood Bowl mini's, i've never been great at skin tbh, i also picked up the new how to paint book.
the book is nothing special, in fact i think the way it shows a lot of the layer work is a bit bitty for my liking, i prefer the older blended approach to models. still its a good book for noobs, more on that later.
now the orc skin setup: ok so waaagh flesh covers as a base should, its thick and goes on well, i use a matt grey primer on my models so i get even tones anyway but this goes on and dries nice and neutral. the one BIG issue i had from this is that i could not wash it out of my freakin brush. it took me a good 5 mins to wash my brush out properly the green stained by brush that bad!
not sure if this is a good thing or a bad thing?
anyhoo, on to the wash, goes on well, pools well and its finally a decent green shade wash, no arguments.
now the layers.
ok so its effectively saying in the book and all other guides to paint the first layer on then highlight with the second.
this went pretty much as planned, i found the layers to be still quite dry like regular gw paints, and actually applied smoother off a wet palette then straight out of the pot, this is similar to the old blood red issue imo where it would cake a little on painting and leave a lumpy finish, i may use medium and water to thin out the pot a little more for future lazyness.
still i got good results in the end.
to finish i glazed one model with the new green glaze and really liked it, a thin layer all over was nice and gave it that final tie in, i like how the colour palette compliments itself well and i've got decent looking orc flesh, and hell its nice and bright like the orcs of old, none of this dull looking greenskin business!
the other point of view is that of my son, he's 9 and has been painting for around 6 months, he's still learning brush control but has already got good brush discipline i.e. amount of paint on the brush and keeping the point and keeping it clean etc. the rest will come with time.
for him we got the ultramarine setup for his assault on black reach miniatures, he has an orc army in the build as it is so the orc skin stuff should help him loads as i found it very quick but he did fancy some marines.
we've so far based and washed his first squad and the dread, and we've started the first layer on the squad, i was suprised at how dark the drakenhof nightshade really was! but it does shade blue very well indeed. the layers again are going on nice and smooth a bit easier from the pot this time.
once more the blue base colour was a pain to wash out of the brush, i think at this point GW may like to add brush soap to their tech range although they may just want to increase sales of brushes who knows?
we've used some of the techniques out of the book with my son, its a good way of showing basic techniques, i've watched the dvd and it does expand a little on whats in the book but i was a touch upset that they didn't feature all the armies and instead stuck with two. but overall its an ok noob guide, i'd like to see an eavy metal version in the future.
what i would like to see is less reliance on the spray gun, its bloody lazy and somewhat daft when you're applying a base, then a layer, then a wash and then having to redo the layer. this is wasteful and bad practice and gives the same results as basing properly, base layer, ink and layer.
too many layers really hit detail imo.
i did also pick up a texture paint and all the glazes. not tried the texture yet, oh also the base layer gold, i'm interested to see how that goes on, gold has always been a pain!
the glazes i like, they save time rather then making your own and do enhance colours well, i'm interesting to see how they do on blood angel armour both old style and new.
anyhoo just my tuppence worth.
ta
Pete
I bought some Biel-Tan Green to replace my expended Thraka Green, and I was really impressed. The pots are now properly filled, have much better coverage, and no longer smell!
I guess, I'm not looking for matches but more of what to expect. Like Mephiston Red is closer to Blood Red in color than Mechrite Red. In the BuyPainted video above, he also points out one of the blues on the conversion chart is off. I know its comparing base to layer, but seems it would be more helpful than what was provided.
I bought the new Screamer Pink base to use on my Tervigon
It flowed easier than a foundation, and required less thinning to get it to the point, where I can put a good base coat over black in one, two in some spots coats.
Verdict is still out for me. Going to try to use just new green paints on my nurgle daemons.
Why do people keep posting this video despite the evident issues with it which have been pointed out all over the place now. Once more with feeling; reviewer is an airbrush painter, dislikes GW, applies the paint differently depending on whether it's old or new, and contradicts his own footage on at least two occasions(says new Bases cover worse than Foundations, then shows Mephiston clearly covering better than Mechrite; and claims new metallics cover worse and have larger pigments, then shows Leadbelcher and Boltgun side by side with no evident difference other than the tone).
I really really wish I could be a bittervet about these paints, but they're no worse than the old ones for experienced painters, and are far far superior for beginners.
Aerethan wrote:Here is a quick 2 pics of the main colors I wanted to test(as I find these 3 are the hardest paints to do well).
First up is a fire warrior that was all black. This model has 2 coats of Averland Sunset, 2 coats of Ceramite White, and only 1 coat of Mephiston Red.
I'm quite pleased with each paints performance. Haven't tried out the 2 metallics I got yet.
I dont know why, uneven and incomplete coverage abound in the pics you've shown. I can get better results for a better price from P3 paints. Also, the whites look as chalky as my skull white paints did when I first started painting my firewarriors 4 years ago...
Ok so i've played with the reds, in general I'm finding that the paints all seem to have more of a matte finish, Argax (the new devlan) tends to do the same thing as devlan but it has more of a stain, same for the carroburg, so I'm thinking that a more targeted application of both is required, no more dunking i think, tomorrow i'll post pics side by side of devlan and argax over mechrite (as its the basis of all cloth in my undead army).
I'm doing a blood angel using new paints for the red, will put it up when i'm done (hopefully tomorrow) I'm using targeted washing rather than dipping (which I usually do) so we will see how it turns out, i'll put it next to the one I did using old paints and dipping, the new is a lot brighter but you can make your own decisions.
Huh? you mean you were dipping with devlan and the other washes and NOT getting stains, etc? If anything i think the new shades need less targeting than the old ones, but thats IMO.
Its my opinion that most of you saying that you didnt have to target with the old washes really don't have a very good eye for quality when it comes to painting, either that or you were working some massive voodoo with the stuff, because my minis looked like crap unless i was targeting.
I was able to try one of the dry colours: "Tyrant Skull".
My first impression is the thickness of the colour which is to be expected for a dry. Sadly this colour came in one of the old pots, so the lid does not stay open by itself, which is a pain for brushing, but nothing that a bent paper clip won't fix.
As for the work itself: its a very convenient colour for brushing - I'm used to Vallejos Bone colour which is very watery and therefore quite difficult to use for drybrushing. The colour of Tyrant Skull is slightly darker than (old)GW or Vallejo bone.
My verdict after my first experience with dry colours:
Convenient and nice quality. I will get some of those as long as the colours match my drybrushing needs.
And in comment to the above mentioned video - how would you drybrush without wiping your brush before???
As for the other categories - my FLGS only got half the colour range (by mistake - GW sent out two Boxes #2). As soon as the glazes and some more of the Layers are in, I will test those too.
well i'm off to get some more colours tonight and grab some of those dry's, i'm interested to see what they're about after all this.
poss get some more of the nice coloured washes too
Carroburg is a lot darker, I'd say. Baal Red was practically unnoticable over Blood Red, whereas Carroburg over Mephiston gives a pleasing tint and shades recesses very nicely. I'm a fan of the Mephiston-Carroburg combo. I just need to find a good colour to highlight Mephiston with.
Brother SRM wrote:Could I trouble someone to show Regal Blue next to Kantor Blue or whatever the equivalent is now? It's kind of important to my Crimson Fists!
I plan on doing one tonight so I will post up some picks when it dries. I'm just going to do a straight out of the pot onto the marine for each color. I know that's not how your supposed to paint but it is the only way to get a good baseline for each. Looking at the wet paint in the pot they look really close.
Haven't tried anything but the shades, but very impressed with Nuln Oil & Carroburg Red - they flow into the recesses very nicely and the red shade is much better that Baal Red. It actually shades since it's darker than Blood and Mechrite Reds. If this impreovement is continued throughout the whole range then I'll be well happy (and skint!). The only problem I have is justifying buying the new paints before I've used up what I have from the old range!
Archroy wrote:Haven't tried anything but the shades, but very impressed with Nuln Oil & Carroburg Red - they flow into the recesses very nicely and the red shade is much better that Baal Red. It actually shades since it's darker than Blood and Mechrite Reds.
That's good to hear. I had to add black ink to my Baal Red wash to be happy with it!
Someone earlier said the washes now known as shades don't flow as well as before, but it sounds like you had a different experience. Do you think they flow into the recess as well as the old washes? Do they 'glaze' or 'shade' flat surfaces as litle or as much as the old washes do?
The flow into recesses just as well, although they do leave behind a stronger stain on surfaces, albeit with less splotchyness thankfully. In general they are darker (and therefore better suited to shading), as well as containing a higher concentration of pigment (hence the staining).
Picked up thirty of them to have a go, including all the ones I suspect will be highlighted for Dark Angels. The rest where mostly ones GW currently has no answer for, pinks, some flesh tones, greens, blues, dry paints and the glazes.
Used some of them on my Infinity figs I was already working on, and loved them. Went on smooth, nice rich colour and generally very impressed.
After a couple more stints of the past couple of days for around six hours painting time total, I am totally sold. In fact I am looking at the other colours and considering upgrading some more reds, yellows and blues to the new colours.
Very happy with the bases and layers overall so far.
Haven't got any shade yet though, will be in my next purchase, the Dry are awesome for me as I use drybrushing a lot for speed. The two times I've tested the dry paints so far they've gone on great.
Evil Suns Scarlet is a layer paint, rather than a base paint... so it's meant to be applied over a base such as Mephiston Red or Khorne Red. Generally if you're doing helmets, I'd start with a Mephiston Red base, and then apply the Evil Suns Scarlet... it will save you time in terms of multiple layers...
While I'm at it, here's how Mephiston Red airbrushed over black primer:
I've not done any washes or additional layers yet.
I have used the lamenters yellow glaze and it realy brightens up the Tau Sept ochre. The only other new paint I have used is the newer black wash. Sorry, don't know the name off the top of my head, not near my paints. The new black wash is great. gives that grimy oil look to any grey paint or primer.
Fezman wrote:Has anyone tried Averland Sunset, and if so, how good is it? How well does it cover a black undercoat?
I brought a pot on the weekend. Sorry, no idea about black because I base in white. Its a nice colour, almost "out of the box" Imperial Fist yellow. The coverage seemed pretty good on the surface I was working on, I'd "guess" that two straight coats over a cured black would probably take and do the trick if you wanted a darker yellow base.
I've also got a pot of that stuff I think is called "technical" which is a neutral base. I got it to coat over decals to get rid of sheen because it dries flat. I was experimenting by putting colour through it, in theory you can make your own washes and glazes out of solid colour paints since it dilutes without "washing out" colour. I only did black to further reduce the shine on the deals and blend them into a model more closely, no water, but it will take it if you need to thin it.
I used my Ravenwing bikes to try out the new paints, and I have to say the results are much better than expected.
Ceramite white went over black primer in 2 thinned coats, and looked great. I then added a thinned blue wash for shading, and drybrushed over with praxeti white for a good result.
I also found that highlighting black quickly is really easy. A light drybrush of longbeard grey, followed by 2 coats of nuln oil to tone it down. Looks pretty good on marine armour, especially around the helmet/shoulders.
My only issue is the 'triangle' bit on the back of the pot that I guess is meant to hold the lid up. It takes some force to get the lid over it to stay open, and when you do it tends to get stuck there when you close the pot again, keeping it slightly open.
xttz wrote:My only issue is the 'triangle' bit on the back of the pot that I guess is meant to hold the lid up. It takes some force to get the lid over it to stay open, and when you do it tends to get stuck there when you close the pot again, keeping it slightly open.
I'm not sure what you mean here. When I tried out the paints in the shop, I just opened the pot and it stayed open for me, no forcing the lid over the shark fin, just the fin's presence kept the lid at a decent angle.
Pic from GW website
Either way, I'm pretty sure it's not meant to do that, so if the fin is misformed in some way, maybe you should take it back to the shop?
I dont know if anyone's asked this yet but how do the paints interact with other brands in terms of mixing? Im assuming it wouldnt be much different but ya never know.
Has anyone else had problems with Shinning Golds' replacement Gehenna's Gold? I picked one up last week and when I opened it, it looked like Red die had been poured into it. I mixed it up but it still has a pools of red. The other pots in-store looked like they had the same issues. I don't know if its meant to be this way. Also it mixes with water and other paint very poorly.
I bought the starter paint set and used the imperial primer on one of the dark angels from the box. The primer rubbed off on the spots where I would hold the model while painting other areas. Gonna do another one to see how my old primer works to see if it might be a coating on the model.
Why do people keep posting this video despite the evident issues with it which have been pointed out all over the place now. Once more with feeling; reviewer is an airbrush painter, dislikes GW, applies the paint differently depending on whether it's old or new, and contradicts his own footage on at least two occasions(says new Bases cover worse than Foundations, then shows Mephiston clearly covering better than Mechrite; and claims new metallics cover worse and have larger pigments, then shows Leadbelcher and Boltgun side by side with no evident difference other than the tone).
I really really wish I could be a bittervet about these paints, but they're no worse than the old ones for experienced painters, and are far far superior for beginners.
they post it because this guy seems to viewed as some sort of painting god by alot of people. i'm not really sure why? fast but sloppy and i notice he doesnt post many close ups. overrated.
Why do people keep posting this video despite the evident issues with it which have been pointed out all over the place now. Once more with feeling; reviewer is an airbrush painter, dislikes GW, applies the paint differently depending on whether it's old or new, and contradicts his own footage on at least two occasions(says new Bases cover worse than Foundations, then shows Mephiston clearly covering better than Mechrite; and claims new metallics cover worse and have larger pigments, then shows Leadbelcher and Boltgun side by side with no evident difference other than the tone).
I really really wish I could be a bittervet about these paints, but they're no worse than the old ones for experienced painters, and are far far superior for beginners.
they post it because this guy seems to viewed as some sort of painting god by alot of people. i'm not really sure why? fast but sloppy and i notice he doesnt post many close ups. overrated.
Why do people keep posting this video despite the evident issues with it which have been pointed out all over the place now. Once more with feeling; reviewer is an airbrush painter, dislikes GW, applies the paint differently depending on whether it's old or new, and contradicts his own footage on at least two occasions(says new Bases cover worse than Foundations, then shows Mephiston clearly covering better than Mechrite; and claims new metallics cover worse and have larger pigments, then shows Leadbelcher and Boltgun side by side with no evident difference other than the tone).
I really really wish I could be a bittervet about these paints, but they're no worse than the old ones for experienced painters, and are far far superior for beginners.
they post it because this guy seems to viewed as some sort of painting god by alot of people. i'm not really sure why? fast but sloppy and i notice he doesnt post many close ups. overrated.
meh. it looks like metallic paints with some wash on it with little to no further highlighting to me. the pics arnt the best, it doesnt really wow me. it is a decent job, dont get me wrong.
kb305 wrote:they post it because this guy seems to viewed as some sort of painting god by alot of people. i'm not really sure why? fast but sloppy and i notice he doesnt post many close ups. overrated.
Have you seen how efficient he is? his brush strokes makes NO MISTAKES.
he also paint his stuff in real time, which is 5x faster than other youtube painters, at display level.
Not only that, he cares enough about us to give us tips and answer all our questions.
Bakerofish wrote:I dont know if anyone's asked this yet but how do the paints interact with other brands in terms of mixing? Im assuming it wouldnt be much different but ya never know.
I've mixed black and white GW paints with P3 paints, it seems pretty good, definitely didn't notice anything wrong.
The new white definately covers better and seems less prone to chalkyness than the old. Shades are much closer to how the old inks worked than the washes they replaced.
I really wish they still had Devlin Mud though. That stuff is liquid Jesus in a bottle.
Has anyone else noticed that the evil sunz scarlet and blood red are noticeably different? The evil sunz seemed to have a slight orange tint to it and the blood red has a kind of shine on it when it dries.
I have used several colors extensively through my airbrush. The bases airbrush much more smoothly than the foundation series. There is far less clogging, cleaning, and diluting needed compared to the old foundations. They also don't separate as badly as the foundations: there's less "black gunk effect". Ceramite White and Abaddon Black are very useful for basecoating and I imagine I will be using them by the boatload.
I have used Averland Sunset, and it goes on as nicely and covers as well as the other paints I have tried. that being said, it is a poor match to Iyanden Darksun. Averland is much warmer/golden in tone than the mustardy Iyanden. Sadly I need to go scrounge more pots of Iyanden to finish my Imperial Fists. :(
As some know from P&M I have a very odd way of painting my nids - modified from an old WD article, substituting blue for the purple used.
So I decided to test the Drakenhof Nightshade 'Shade' in place of the Asurmen Blue I normally use.
Now what I did find was two things.
First, the shade has far, far better coverage. No awkward spots of white where it didn't reach....however, because of this it's certainly not as controlled as the wash was. It ended up pooling in places and also dripping. Blue fingers, not fun
time will tell.
np, They are reasonably close.
