Tyranid Cockroaches, Ewhhhhhh!

Well here I am laid up with a immobile shoulder and my right arm in a sling and I tell you I am getting stir crazy. Books, TV, Internet surfing, No porn; right arm remember.............

Anyway visiting my 40K forums I stumble across this fantastic rendering of a Tyranid army by a certain 'DeadMuppet' his sobriquet. He has produced the most realistic Tyranids I have ever seen.

Basing his colouration on cockroaches he has produced the most intriguingly disgusting arthropods I have yet seen so I have set out to duplicate his technique.

From what I have seen on his thread he starts out with a light gray primer, I have gray primer, followed by a khaki base coat. I still can press a spray can button so here goes..............

http://i.imgur.com/9IiFe5m.jpg


I'm starting with the only Tyranid in my possession; a Hive Tyrant recently purchased.

I have very limited experience with painting so this thread will be basically a trial and error excursion into the do's and don'ts of colourization.

It should prove fun..............

Tyranid Basic Paint:

I know I am circumventing conventional wisdom with my painting and am taking too many steps to accomplish that which pro-painters can do with ease. Never lTyranid Basic Paint:

I know I am circumventing conventional wisdom with my painting and am taking too many steps to accomplish that which pro-painters can do with ease. Never let it be said that the Blackadder takes the easy path when the harder is available.

After a coat of gray primer and a coat of cardboard box cover coat (The only tan paint I had) I masked off the areas not needing further base painting and sprayed the chitin carapace areas with a coat of rust brown primer.

http://i.imgur.com/kbwY47Q.jpg


After drying removing the tape reveals I missed a bit of leg chitin. Never mind I can touch that up with a brush.

http://i.imgur.com/6ZwE9Jc.jpg


Well these photos came out disappointing; the flash kind of washed out the dark brown primer. The actual colour is more the cheesy simulated leather wood grain table pad hue in the photo.

I've gone about as far as I can go with spray cans, time to break out the airbrush.

This should be disgusting

I've always said that this is pretty much what I would do if I were to ever play tyranids. I'm glad someone else is having a crack at it first. It should look awesome, creepy, and more realistic.

I'm looking forward to seeing what you can do!

Yeah SBG, me too. I told you I'm not a painter...............

Tyranid Base Coat Part Two:

Removing the masking revealed an acceptable contrast.

http://i.imgur.com/ZKmX73Y.jpg


The flash show the paint as more red than it is but hey the entire base coat will be covered anyway, this will just give a depth to the final coat.

http://i.imgur.com/4ZDiQRm.jpg


The rust undercoat will (I hope) supply a subliminal ruddy glow to the burnt umber carapace surface pigment.

http://i.imgur.com/FUNmWNF.jpg


Now for the airbrushing:

Blackadder Straddling Two Concepts

Originally there was only the one master plan for organic appearing cockroach coloured Tyranids.

Since posting this thread I have be made aware of more. They seem to be multiplying like..........well like cockroaches.

I have narrowed the field to two and will attempt to fashion mine somewhere between them as the first was too light and the last seems a bit too dark.

I am listing the colours I have just ordered for a delivery later this week. I chose Vallejo paints instead of Citadel for no particular reason as I do have a conversion chart from one manufacturer to another which may prove useful to those with a goodly supply of alternative manufacturers paints:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

The colours I shall be using are as follows:

71024 Khaki Brown
71027 Light Brown
71040 Burnt Umber
71042 Camo Black Brown
71083 Orange
71109 UK Pru Blue
72014 Warlord Purple
72034 Bone White
72050 Cold Gray
72066 Tan
73200 Sepia Wash

And Citadel 21-27 Rakarth Flesh

I bought these paints on Amazon from a third party distributor 'SIFI Comics and Games' who seemed to have the best price and one price shipping regardless of the number of small items ordered which seemed a bargain. This information for any of you that may wish at your peril to follow along on this painting odyssey. I should be receiving my stuff with in the week....

Back to the competing variations on the cockroach theme, Deadmuppets beautiful work is slightly spoiled by the use of a brush to paint the highlights on the edge of the chitin armour; I intend to use an airbrush throughout even for the highlights using glue tac for the masking.

Another contender used gloss varnish for the carapace which gave a too shiny appearance. I shall be using a satin varnish.

Of course these projects are done and mine are just a figment of m imagination with little hard evidence of my imagined abilities so before I get too deeply into critical analysis perhaps I should actually do something. Ha!

Oh BTW if you intend to follow along you may want to have at least a medium sized Tyranid and an airbrush with a fine tip. Ha!

I'm really looking forward to seeing this project complete. I've seen a lot of attempts online, but not a lot of satisfying results. I think the choice of satin varnish rather than matte or gloss is good, but as you, without sseeing it first-hand I'm just working off a personal assumption. I have high hopes. No pressure or nothin'.

Tyranid Spoiler Alert:

Okay well we've seen my pitiful opening attempt at a cockroach colours army basecoat and the requisite colours are ordered. I have stated my goals regarding plans for a 'Nid army and a Pollyanna speculation on a future Bio Titan so now let's see the immediate painting goals I have set for myself. The way I look at it the small muscle controls needed for airbrushing will help retrain my fine motor skills lost during the current incapacity.

I have state on a few forums I eschew the party coloured 'carousel pony' painted Tyranids for something realistic looking and have set my sights rather high regarding the painting quality of the pieces so pictured below is a sample of what I hope to achieve. How close I come to that goal is what this thread is all about.















Good luck on that one Blackadder, yer gonna need it! Ha!

Wow , that is sexy and I just said that about a ockroach

Well, that's ridiculously awesome.

If you want your swarm to look like that, you've set the bar incredibly high. I hope you can do it justice.

so i like strange projects and this seems quite unique. that is one killer trygon i agree with the others that bar is setr rather high good luck obtaining your goal.

Today I received my paint and tried out my new dual action air brush. My old cheap 'Badger' I felt wasn't up to the current challenge.

Damnme if I can get any paint through the dimned thing so I played around with the settings and the air pressure and disassembled the needle valve assembly to no avail finally in desperation I took the needle out of the thing and huge amounts of paint sprayed through. I had the needle set for paint with a mineral spirit base instead of water Ha!

Blackadder, do you really think you are qualified to pursue a project of this caliber if you can't even adjust the spray nozzle?

Okay so now my acquiring of Tyranid 'Heavy Metal' armour components is relatively complete (albeit still in the kit boxes) With the last night acquisition of a 'Trygon' NIB model I now have that and a Carnifex NIB both of which are in transit; an in house Tyrannafex/Tervigon in the process of being primed and having the arms/armament being magnetically attached (not glued) by installing rare earth magnets (1/8 X 1/16 inch dia. still in transit), a very heavy Hive Tyrant (metal) I won't make that mistake again and a 10 piece Gargoyle set NIB.

That should be enough for the time being seeing as how I have yet to paint a single piece.

So well you may ask that given I have 3 Lucius Titans, More IG Super-heavy Resin tanks than I can count without taking my shoes off and an odd assortment of IG scout bipeds what is my current fascination with a Xeno/Bio army?

In truth I do not know, the spirit just moved me in that direction. I do know this; I have a hankering to do a scratch bipedal Bio-Titan on the order of size analogous to my Warlord. To do that I need good hands on representatives of the Tyranids genera. What better way to acquaint myself with the literally in's and out's of the anatomy than to study some actual Tyranids.

And there you have it, a method and a rational to my personal form of dementia.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Trannofex/Tervigon Painting

Since I haven't received my Trygon as yet I'll practice my dubious skills on the Trannofex. Yesterday I primed the model with generic spray paint and a bit later applied a thin coat of flat white also generic (Walmart if you must know) but at $0.99 cents a can who's complaining.

After allowing to dry overnight it should be ready for acrylic airbrushing but first a few pictures of my initial foray into dual action airbrushing.

http://i.imgur.com/e5DkdLA.jpg


'BuyPainted' (I wish I knew this guy's name) says in his video he uses light gray prime but in the video it looks almost white.

http://i.imgur.com/jCZNpVC.jpg


I personally think the belly colours will be more vivid if applied to a flat white sub-coat. We'll see..............


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Trannofex/Tervigon Painting 2:

Well that didn't take long compared to yesterday Under the fluorescent lighting the khaki colour seems a bit greenish I hope that won't affect the final result as it is just a base coat.

http://i.imgur.com/dgIAeeQ.jpg


This image looks like an arthropod with a kick stand.

http://i.imgur.com/UXePehJ.jpg



Automatically Appended Next Post:

Trannofex/Tervigon Painting 3:

There's an old maxim stating, "It's a poor craftsman that blames his tools." but the qualifier is, "It's an equally poor craftsman that doesn't realize his tool's limitations."

This airbrush has limited range regarding how fine a line can be sprayed. While it is perfectly adequate for much of the work that needs to be done fine lines of less that 3 MM width are beyond its capabilities.

The bottom line is I need a finer airbrush. Any suggestions as to what brush and dia. tip I should need?

The two images below did not come out too badly but it shouldn't be that hard to render a finer detail line. its like playing the piano with boxing gloves on.

http://i.imgur.com/e5Vy6lH.jpg



http://i.imgur.com/VAgsRqp.jpg


Otherwise I'm rather pleased with this for a first effort..........

Very nice so far. I did a similar thing for a combat patrol 'nid force years ago, (based on the original colours for James Cameron's Aliens) but I only had some of the smaller models (stealers and hormagaunts) which I painted in browns, added some orange highlights, and then dipped - very much to get that horrid shiny insectoid-carapace look.

I look forward to seeing how this project progresses!

I've considered a Tyranid army based on the Alien motif but given my predilection for blacks and grays I thought it too much to also have a Black 'nid army as well.

Hive Tyrant continues:

The best thing about the Metal Hive Tyrant is that being metal it's great to practice on. If I make a big mistake I can just soak it in Simple green overnight and wash the paint off in the dishwasher.

So far no real mistakes but I lack the finesse of a Pro-Painter that and I'm more comfortable with my single action Badger siphon brush

I learned a few tricks on how to isolate areas already painted from over-spray, the best being Tack Putty. The only stuff I have lying about was 3M Adhesive Putty but I understand Blue Tack is better.

Anyway I'm prepared to highlight the rib cage and tail so I have the carapace masked off.

http://i.imgur.com/pCZrxF0.jpg


In the back ground you see the Tervigon/Tyrannofex which awaits todays trial and my makeshift paint booth set up.

http://i.imgur.com/gSoeNvk.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/3aOQF24.jpg


This is all a new experience for me because other than the Warhound 'Lucie' I've not had any experience painting figures with an airbrush.

Blackadder - great looking Nis so far, the example from Buypainted is awesome.

I believe his name is Jaroslav - he also runs an online store called Forge Planet. His free videos are an awesome source of info for airbrushing. His Grey Knights really set the standard a few years ago for airbrushed metallics.

Your big Nid is looking great so far, keep it up!

Thanks for the info Jarslav that sounds right. Someone else said he calls himself Jaro.......... but

Whoa this is coming along swimmingly; forget Tyranids I'm gonna get a job body paint'n nekkid girls..........

I've finally found my true vocation Ha!

Of course I did screw it up just now in my exuberance but that's easily remedied. Photos later after I patch up the screw up.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Tervigon/Tyrannofex Paint Odyssey Continues:

As promised an update of today's earlier post.

Screwup repaired there are still errors that need attention but hey you really can't make a mistake with Biological Organisms (my asymmetrically patterned cat for example) anyway its time to explain that the current coat is Vallejo Light Brown over Khaki Brown with Umbral Umber ('Formula mfg' as the dark colour) on the carapace.

As usual I find working on larger models easier than small models so the Hive Tyrant actually took more time and effort that the Tyrannofex.

I've found that with very little effort I have graduated from not even able to get any paint through the airbrush to defining a 1/16 inch stream of paint virtually anywhere on a model. Where was airbrushing (Body Painting) on the menu when I had my 'Career chip Installed?

Anyway after mebbe half an hour of total airbrushing hands on time I managed this: (If I can, anyone can)

http://i.imgur.com/QVe51nt.jpg


Look, Compressor industrial quality with 3 gallon tank $50 bucks (at Home Depot,) a gravity feed Master Airbrush $10- 15 bucks on Amazon. Paint is the big cost but Hey you probably have paint. Gad who would paint with a brush?

http://i.imgur.com/6Bi0vfQ.jpg

Trygon vs Mawloc

Decisions, decisions why can't anything simple and straight forward.

I finally started assembling my Trygon and there are dozens of extra parts. Thanks GW for all the options; I had less trouble kitting out my car. (Actually the car was a piece of cake I called up half a dozen dealers with the spec's I wanted and one guy said, "They're driving just that vehicle off the trailer as we speak.)

Anyway then I find out that different tails go with the different varients; well F... that I want the forked tail on the basic Trygon. Mebbe he's a 'sport'.

http://i.imgur.com/mxQz7wh.jpg


The other thing I can't understand is why do Tyranids have so many scrotums?

I'd go with the tail you prefer. It's a fantasy alien space monster most often defined by it's head and arms. It's not like you've chosen the wrong kind of camouflage pattern for your SS tunics - but not smocks or pants - in Normandy 1944 (an actual argument I was reading on another forum the other day)...

Nice progress.

will be following this blog

I really want to see how this project develops. How do you find working with the Scotch adhesive putty? Where did you buy it?

Also, great idea on the clothes hangers.

I don't know where you can buy it in Vaughan but heres a google link.

https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=Scotch+adhesive+putty&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

The stuff I have is really old and has lost some if its sticking power but works pretty good.

My Neglected Tyranids:

Taking advantage of the mild weather I primed my entire Tyranid company starting with the Tyrannofex/Tervigon on which I already practiced my airbrush technique.

Never let it be said that the Blackadder doesn't jump in with both feet instead of practicing with a cheaper model.

Aside from the body already brushed in the basic cockroach colours I did little else on the appendages until today. So first a light coat of Primer gray then a light coat of flat white for the under belly, arms, legs, weapons, and tail; the upper surfaces will be dark so no need for flat white in those areas.

http://i.imgur.com/QEx64HF.jpg


Its a good thing to have everything primed ahead of time. I used standard spray paint primer instead of Vallejo Model Air because its more durable, adheres better to the basic plastic, forms a better base for the water-base paint to follow and a damned sight cheaper than any modeling acrylic paint.

I painted the entire army for two bucks worth of primer and still have almost the entire cans of paint left.

So Tyrannofex/Tervigon above, next the Trygon:

http://i.imgur.com/Z5dvEA2.jpg


This is the model that impressed me so that I had to attempt a Tyranid army.

and finally the Carnifex which was apparently sculpted by another artist as the body appears less detailed/refined:

http://i.imgur.com/xdbMD2O.jpg

Loving your blog so far, keep the updates coming!

 Glaiceana wrote:
Loving your blog so far, keep the updates coming!

Yeah I suppose I'm going to have to fire up the airbrush again.............. the problem with that is they are such a pain in the ass to clean and I get lazy after painting.

Peon Army Tyranid Style:

In the hierarchy of the Tyranids there is a gross discrepancy in size and stature so the grunts, pawns, whatever are humanoid sized and are the young of larger and the more powerful pieces as well. An interesting premise.

Here we have relatively tiny beasties known as Termagant broods (which implies immature) which are born fully developed complete with weaponry in the egg pouch of a Tervigon which makes a Tervigon a sort of Termagant APC and a female Tyrannofex to boot or am I in error?

http://i.imgur.com/JFMKM84.jpg


Next we have Gargoyle broods which are legless but can fly. They are the offspring of what? Do they grow as they mature?

http://i.imgur.com/lqLe833.jpg


Next we have the Hive Tyrant which comes in two variants winged and wingless midway in size between the humanoid sized larvae and the mature tank sized creatures. What is their role?

http://i.imgur.com/rvl384b.jpg


I find the Tyranids the most fascinating of the alien armies which is probably why I departed from my preoccupation with IG armour on this most atypical tangent.

A Question of Technique:

Happy New Year,

Since I am up at 4:00 AM New Years Day I decided to paint the base coat on my Trygon and the paint seems a bit heavily applied.

http://i.imgur.com/6RGECba.jpg


Since I am a mere tyro at airbrushing my only experience being painting 'Lucie' to date. At that time I used a siphon 'Badger' basic brush with a 0,2 mm orifice.

Now I am using a 'Master' gravity dual action brush and have experienced a devil of a time getting paint through the 0,2 mm orifice on this brush.

I am using 'Vallejo AV' Model Air paint and 'AV' thinner in different proportions BTW the 'AV' paints bottles are excellent for adding discrete amounts of paint to the cup because the dispenser tip allows measured drops of liquid rather than pouring it in as with the 'Citadel' jars.

Back to the question, what proportion i.e. drops of paint/thinner would be correct for applying a base coat and is the AV 'thinner' really necessary or would water or 'Windex®' work just as well?

I have watched the video ad nauseam :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJha39IUztU

and have yet to obtain the requisite ease of application Jaro achieves except when I practice on scrap bits which is extremely frustrating.

Can I get a response from some experienced 'brushers regarding these problems or is it just BA's penchant for 'instant gratification' thats the issue?


Mould Lines:

Naturally putting the cart before the horse I 'Grey' primed, base 'Flat White' painted and applied 'Khaki Brown' base coat before noticing mould lines in the castings; two points off for stupidity Blackadder............ Pay attention to the video BA, Jaro even takes the trouble to announce he sands off the mould lines.

http://i.imgur.com/8NQNbgm.jpg


Now I have to burnish out the fine mould lines and apply yet another coat of Khaki Brown.

http://i.imgur.com/V5uCtva.jpg


FYI Mould lines are fine ridges of plastic that form where the two halves of the mould come together. These should be lightly scraped away with either file or as I shall use a #11 Xacto blade. The above image shows actually a seam between two joined pieces that I shall also have to address but it serves to illustrate what I am talking about as mould lines are far too fine to readily be seen in a photograph.

Not removing these casting discrepancies is just another item that separates us amateurs from the pro-painters

Going back to dress out the seams is not really a problem as I missed painting a few places on the imaged pieces anyway.............

I`m more of a gamer than a painter so my opinion is suspect but I would say that to hell with those mold lines and keep up the good work

M.

Looking good so far. Forgot to subscribe to this thread! I can't really offer advice on this as I'm only just starting on proper painting myself.

Good, well we can learn together..................


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Miguelsan wrote:
I`m more of a gamer than a painter so my opinion is suspect but I would say that to hell with those mold lines and keep up the good work

M.

The Perineum Mould Line Seam Omission:



Having mostly devoted my modeling to mechanical objects mould line seams have not bothered me greatly until now. Biological structures however are pretty much seamless; I can account for only one on the human anatomy that was missed but seeing "Man" was a rush job to be finished before the weekend I suppose that omission can be given a pass.

At any rate the fact that I missed a few still puts me in rather good company,

Still since I don't want my Tyranids to have overt assembly seams for want of a few minutes labor so dressing the ridges is the course I shall pursue.

3M Adhesive Putty:

I don't know if the stuff I have is old and dried out but as it is it is ideal for masking off areas I can't afford to paint. Its dry to the touch softens easily and leaves no residue.

http://i.imgur.com/JU2dByq.jpg


With very little practice you can pull off ribbons to mould around the to be painted areas pushing the excess into the crevasses as you go:

http://i.imgur.com/5Z5xcth.jpg


Base painting the Carnifax just now with Umbral Umber:

http://i.imgur.com/wKaFZgR.jpg

I Apply'a Bayzae Cote uv Khaky Bron:

I nanosić warstwę bazową khaki brązowy

Anyone question why Jaro posts his You-tube tutorial in English?

Anyway I applied my base coat of Khaki Brown to all my 'nids and then applied Umbral Umber to the carapaces on all four biguns.

Today I started fine detailing the Tyrgon and practices fine line airbrushing on the Trivigon egg sacks.

Umbral Umber is really thick paint and clogged the tip even when diluted 50/50 so painting detail with it is slow going.

http://i.imgur.com/UdY0MPJ.jpg


BTW the five pieces at the bottom of the image haven't been detailed with umber yet.

Since there are only the two colours applied and no light brown highlights done yet I'm rather pleased with the results thus far.

I just hope that it's not going to be too dark..............

this looks promising so far! I'm also a fan of realistic Tyranid schemes

PZ-360XS

I just got my new airbrush. When I started using an airbrush about a week or two ago I couldn't even get paint to come through the nozzle. Here two weeks later this morning I'm still getting blops of paint, uncontrollable over-spray, in short paint everywhere but where I want it.............

I'm beginning to think I'm inept. Comes the Post; it's the PZ-360XS $29.99 Free Shipping.

I got the quick disconnect with it $1.86 1/8BSP thread with it.

All of a sudden I'm a virtuoso! Fine lines; no problem How thin do you want them? How 'bout the the bony fingers on a Tyranid Gargoyle? I'm painting the individual fingers. This is straight out of the box!

This airbrush is phenomenal, it comes in a nice black case with the 0,5 MM needle tip mounted on the brush. There are two alternate needles 0,2 and 0,3 MM with the corresponding nozzles There is an air adjustment under the cup so you can adjust the airflow with out changing the compressor regulator setting Fabulous!

Now for the real beauty if this unit. There is a knob adjust at the rear of the handle. You use this to adjust the length of the throw on the trigger lever.

I can't imagine what $200 and $300 dollar airbrushes offer but I am quite satisfied with this model.

It's a Poor Workman............

The old mechanic's maxim, "It's a poor workman that blames his tools." should be taken with the following corollary; "It's an even poorer workman that uses the wrong tool for the job."

This is the situation I found myself in attempting to paint a masterpiece with a paintball gun.

Below you see my paint area just a simple piece of ribbed cardboard. It's the only area I have been using since my initial foray into precision airbrushing two weeks ago. Before that I did manage after a sort to paint my Warhound with barely satisfactory results a couple of years ago but since then I haven't touched an airbrush.

http://i.imgur.com/mwKyz1T.jpg


So you see large patches of brown overspray and tip cleaning patches to free clogged nozzles etc. And overlying that are these round patches or blobs of whitish brown. This was the best I could do with the airbrush in an attempt to define thin lines of colour regardless of pressure, proximity, dilution of paint or needle setting, it was a very frustrating excursion into airbrushing prowess.

So yesterday afternoon I received th "PZ-360XS" $29.99 dollar airbrush.

Suddenly I can paint fine straight consistent lines, swirls and arcs and even write letters in cursive (Aw'right, my handwriting ain't so good!) but you can see that it is the brush that makes the difference.

Anyway yesterday evening I applied light brown to my brood of 'Termagants' etc and the metal 'Hive Tyrant'

http://i.imgur.com/zMrbUEY.jpg


Finally I can paint individual ribs, fingers, paint goes where I want it and in the correct degree of intensity..........

and while I haven't mastered all the niceties of airbrushing I am at last in the right ballpark............

Beautiful, in a sinister way. Love 'em!

Separating the Men from the Boys:

Well the artists from the tyros anyway. My first attempt at emulating Mr Jaro at fine line spraying on the spine of the carapace was a fiasco new airbrush not withstanding.

What worked well delineating fingers and tendons doesn't hold true for the relatively large flat expanses of the carapace segments.

There over-spray sticks out like so many sore thumbs and it's going to require a lot of practice to emulate Mr Jaro's quick and steady hand.


http://i.imgur.com/iyI0FeT.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/CdYQXTI.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/qxcauqm.jpg


I displayed this just to demonstrate it's not all beer and skittles with the learning process and I hope to show better in my next post............

What a Difference a Day Makes:

After yesterday's fiasco painting highlights I tried again this morning with acceptable results. I will have to touch up the dark after my German Camo Black Brown paint comes. Amazon sent the wrong colour than what I ordered and I didn't notice until this past weekend.

No Problem............

Anyway I acquired a bit of finesse over night and the highlights shaped up better

http://i.imgur.com/6kGsKI6.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/SB72GfD.jpg


so well in fact that I attempted the Trygon carapace as well with better than hoped for results...............

http://i.imgur.com/q0Yi3g3.jpg


I'm getting the hang of this I think.

I'm interested to see the end result, its hard to tell in the bits how well its going to come together in the end.

I appreciate that but this wouldn't be a WIP thread if all I posted was a completed model. By presenting my learning curve it may stimulate others to try the techniques as well which is the primary goal of all my WIPs.

Getting there is half the fun............

Is that SFW?

^yes, safe for work but attracts Nerdfests like bugs to a headlight! :-)

Glad you got a good airbrush to work how you wanted! Looking great so far I'll be testing my new brush soon, once I get some cleaner for it, don't want to ruin it xD

Very true, it's just hard to comment in relation to the end product before we see any of the end product. You have a vision in your head of what you want. Other than the Trygon that is the inspiration, but not a template really, we don't have a clear picture. Unless I missed something, then never mind.

The big problem with airbrushes is they have to be cleaned all the time. I clean mine with Windex which works fine. I bought some "Official" airbrush cleaner as well but rarely use it unless the brush gets too clogged which I don't let happen. but to answer whalemusic once I get most of the base coats done and feel sufficiently competent to apply the fine detail I'll probably finish one of the bigger pieces but until I get that confidence to maintain a consistency of technique its best to do all the pieces at once step by step.

We'll be watching, I just kinda felt bad no one had commented much yet.

Giant Silurian Centipede:

The more I work on this the more I am reminded of the giant centipede Arthropleura which attained a length of ten feet . The Trygon is quite a bit longer but most of it is tail which I consider cheating............



Anyway I have finally put the finishing touches on the basic painting of the Trygon and am ready to apply the various coatings of orange wash, satin varnish, and an oil/brown wash so it's time to pause for photos.........

http://i.imgur.com/4l0nbS3.jpg


I should really have my head examined for practicing on my most expensive piece but it didn't come out that badly for a first effort considering I've only been using an airbrush for less than a month..........

http://i.imgur.com/JZ8mOjV.jpg


I don't know what I was afraid of, the basics of airbrushing are relatively simple to pick up

http://i.imgur.com/WRGT6uC.jpg


Of course I had a good instructor in Jaro and all I did so far is copy his work..........

http://i.imgur.com/u1nqPMp.jpg


Now I need a course in photography, why did the colour change from red to green and back to red again with out changing the camera settings?

Camera stuff like that is usually to do with the white balance, sometimes moving the camera away and then back can make it change its mind lol.
But yeah your Trygon is looking awesome so far

"Wanna See Everybody From Behind":

Okay three of the major players have their base coat applied. That leaves just the Tyrranofex and the three broods to base coat the carapace highlights. Hopefully today..................

http://i.imgur.com/fT2FLf2.jpg




Automatically Appended Next Post:
The Broods:

I notice Jaro (whom I consider an artist) confines his projects to the larger models.

I would like to see him tackle smaller figures such as these Tyranid Broods. I find it impractical to attempt to paint the highlights on these with an airbrush so I went back to a technique I call dry brushing.

I painted the entire twenty two pieces with a few drops of paint and a medium sable brush but what I did is drag the brush from ridge to ridge instead of following the line of the ridges. This deposits a fine glaze of pigment on the high spots but doesn't look like a continuous line of paint.

http://i.imgur.com/8YZ2k2c.jpg


I hope to get better pictures as the brown tones look washed out and blotchy in these images.

http://i.imgur.com/4dWCjwh.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/VOhTD8S.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/nyseQa4.jpg

Tyranidae:

My first attempt at orange glazing the highlights has produced mixed results. The recommended paint applies a nice and thin transparent coating to the light brown highlights:

http://i.imgur.com/RHI8bCz.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/CAgcTSR.jpg


The effect looks somewhat blotchy and needs touching up in my estimation but I am going to go ahead with the procedure on a few of the broods to see how they finish up.

What is particularly nice is the satin sheen that the orange spray give to the carapace.

http://i.imgur.com/zbcSIbs.jpg


Below is the only gargoyle to receive the treatment and I am very pleased with how that is turning out.

http://i.imgur.com/3pljzrV.jpg

These are looking spot on. I can't wait to see more as they develop.

Gargoyles Have an air about them:

Well at least this step is half done. Making the wing membranes look like parchment is a bit of an involved process. After brushing a thin coat of Umbral Umber on the arms and finger bones using a combination of dry brushing, buffing and hard rubbing with my thumb I managed to get an appearance that have prompted some to ask what kind on glazing am I using.

http://i.imgur.com/PEWXKwU.jpg


In keeping with my policy of keeping nothing back......

Much as I hesitate to admit this the truth is I wet my thumb with saliva.

Ewhew! Yeah that's right, he said spit.

http://i.imgur.com/E7yx92d.jpg


Face it, it could be worse...........

Never the less incorporating a bit of DNA into the bio-denizens seems almost poetic.

http://i.imgur.com/BEORZyF.jpg


Wassamatter never heard of spit-shined shoes?

Just make sure you make a few extra squishes to go under the toes of your titans. The gargoyles are looking great .

I do like your colour choice, it make's a nice change to see a darker more insect like colour scheme,
rather than the usual brightly colored Nid's.

So I Went On Vacation to Florida:

And all I got was a lousy Bio-Titan

Judging by the responses I could have stayed a few more weeks in Florida but I hurried home with this beauty in my hot little hands. There are significant possibilities in the Florida Flea Markets.

http://i.imgur.com/92j5NJl.jpg


So it was a bit damaged a few chips here and there but a Hierophant? Come on what can be wrong with a half price Hierophant?

back after a week with a Tyranid bio-titan; does it get any better than this?

Good ol Titan at a flea market dream. Never thought those were real things.

Florida Flea Markets cover acres and are usually under tents.

Like a Kid in a Candy Store.........

The Blackadder lacks discipline. The problem is I want it all jumping from one project to another but that's the way I work otherwise I just get bored so bear with me eventually all these projects will be completed just maybe not in our lifetimes

anyway I have fun and where's the harm in that.

This model is probably the easiest FW production I've seen; very few parts and the moulding flaws and flash enhance and blend with the model sculpting making it so you really can't make a mistake.

Okay so the tools I used to clean the castings beside the standard razor saw, #11 Xacto blade and 'Utility Knife' are:

To properly assemble this model it would also be prudent to have the following tools to remove the unwanted flash and vents.

The rotary cutters in the foreground I use in my Dremel; I have the cordless model which saves you fighting with the electric cord and speed control which my previous Dremel had and was a big pain in the @$$. The freedom of cordless is the better way to go and the battery lasts a long time between charges.

http://i.imgur.com/m0qkIWW.jpg


Back to the cutter bits the three to the left are actually dentist drills I got from my dentist as they were too worn to use for drilling teeth although they are fine for plastic.

Also shown is the nail clipper diagonal cutters I use to remove sprues and vents and to the far left the steel emery boards flat and curved for sanding and rounding.

Note on the head the only problem with the model I bought is that the leaf-like structure on the side of the tongue is totally missing and I'll have to sculpt a replacement. All the other chips and bits were with the model and have been re-glued in place.

The image below shows the tail mount with the moulding sprue completely removed and the tail likewise undercut so the two chitin plates match and overlap perfectly.

http://i.imgur.com/V6LzSfL.jpg


I am going to pin the tail to the body with steel coat hanger wire when the time comes to mount it.

Other than that the model is ready to prime.

These are looking good! Particularly the body of the Trygon shown further up on this page

But the title creeps me out

 RiTides wrote:
These are looking good! Particularly the body of the Trygon shown further up on this page

But the title creeps me out

this coming from the guy building a slimy worm host

glad your back to the bugs

A Sow's Ear:

I begin to make a silk purse of this abomination.........

Now that I have cleaned up most of the casting flaws it's time to address the broken detail which while it wouldn't be noticeable to virtually anyone my particular form of mania will never be satisfied with imperfections no matter how invisible. Don't you just feel for Mrs Blackadder?

http://i.imgur.com/rq5u6gT.jpg


The red rectangle indicates where the very tips of the ribs broke away a few square millimeters of resin. I made up a strong batch of 24 hour aircraft quality A4 Epoxy and replaced the four missing tips. After the epoxy had hardened a few hours so it was barely sticky to the touch I hand moulded the tips to an over-sized facsimile of the errant rib-ends.

A bit later I attempted the skeletal striations but the epoxy is still a bit too sticky.

Meanwhile the edge of the front fumarole suffered a bit of damage so I built that up as well with an excess of epoxy that when hardened can be sanded and carved into shape.

http://i.imgur.com/5NcUS0x.jpg


Finally I addressed the missing tongue component which required a complete mirror sculpting of the opposite piece. Again I made the initial missing part over-sized and allowed to harden then shaped the bit and when this is dry I will final sand it to the desired size and secure with cyano acetate glue.

http://i.imgur.com/ZTPcIJz.jpg


This of course is an over exertion for such trivial objects but the practice is the thing. Someday I may need to replace or repair some critical component and the knowledge I can do it will serve me well.

It was just built in battle damage, and you ruined it!

Hhe's restoring it , his cockroaches regrow their missing limbs +1 to regeneration rolls.

Ha ha, spoken like a true FW believer, shipping damage is built in battle damage, well at least that cuts down on replacement parts shipping.

When I buy an item I'll supply my own collateral damage TYVM.

Of course that doesn't apply here as I was fully aware of the deficiencies when I bought it.

All this fixing will be worth it in the end! I absolutely love the gargoyles btw, amazing job on them!

Thanks, the fixing is part and parcel of any FW build. I've never had a FW model that could be assembled straight from the box without some repairing.

Nid Week:

There's a few good Hierophant assembly videos on You-tube and the best I've found is "Nid Week" except for the hour plus run time it is a detailed account of the assembly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlO46OttB34

I can offer one improvement on his excellent discourse. The Blackadder has no illusion about the size of his fingers and watching the struggle the assembler is having picking up and installing the extremely tiny spurs on the underbelly I suggest picking up the spur by the tip by sticking a sharp straight pin in the tip of the spur making it easy to pick up align and install in the tiny cup receptacle on the model. I use Industrial strength Cyano-acrylate glue that dries in seconds and holds strong. The pin can be pressed on to hold the spur secure until the glue holds.

http://i.imgur.com/2aw7EFK.jpg


The image above shows the smallest spur with the pin still impaling the tip. Once dried the pin is easily removed and the microscopic pinhole will be filled with the painted finish.

The perfectionism of Mr. Blackadder is not a sign of Insanity.....

wow, I've been away from this thread a long time...You've made some excellent progress in my absence.

Do you have any plans on converting this in any way, adding extra detail etc,
or are you sticking with the standard Hierophant assembly.

Initially I moved into this genera for two reasons; to get a feel for Tyranids in preparation for a Norn Queen 'Dominatrix' Bio-titan I proposed to do at some future date my ultimate goal is to have Warlord size comparable titans for each of the warring factions.

Secondly before my initial foray into Tyranids I had no experience in air brushing. Lucie was only attempt in the medium and while her paint job was adequate it lacked the virtuosity of a true pro-painter. I wanted to do a better job on Luteus Vexant my Warlord so I decided to learn proper air brushing and the Tyranids offered that opportunity.

I feel I can little improve on the FW Hierophant other than offer simple assembly techniques for the difficult micro-bitz at this moment.

I've only toyed around with an airbrush myself, but your cockroach colored nids are very tempting to me. If it weren't for my GW ban I might buy some more nids and create my own infestation. I do still have plenty of stealers from old editions and space hulk along with termagant a from starter sets.

The nice thing about 'Nids is they make a nice adjunct to a display diorama which my will be as I don't actually play the game I just like building the models.

Repair and Detailing:

someone asked me how I repaired the damage on this second hand Hierophant. I used aircraft grade 24 hour epoxy A4 Metalset available on the internet just google, 'A4 Metalset'. The stuff I have expired years ago but is still viable for model work although I suspect it has lost it's original strength for Military Aircraft Spec's.

http://i.imgur.com/sulOu1m.jpg


It mixes one to one and by varying the ratio you can lengthen or decrease the curing time. I increase the hardener component so the malleability is decreased to about four hours. Good enough for none-gov'ment work.

In the videos linked above the author installed the forward fumarole in a less than professional manner with ruddy great gaps in the joint to be filled in later with some sort of filler. This gives a weakened joint that may fail after your beautiful paint job is finished causing a glaring seam in your otherwise flawless finish.

http://i.imgur.com/PeWIZsz.jpg


I used the Metalset which is both filler and cement in one and has the added benefit of being sculpt-able in it's latter drying period and has very much the same strength as the original resin so in effect the piece is welded to the body.

After the epoxy was completely dried I scoured striations to meld the base with the fumarole with a dull #11 Xacto blade so the seam is virtually invisible.

http://i.imgur.com/F0Minii.jpg

Looks good to me

Besides my priming skills would layer enough on there to hide it either way

Restoring a Basket Case:

I strongly suspect there is a bit of a sadistic streak in the FW modelers; they seem to have made this model much harder than is necessary to assemble almost as though they want the purchasers to botch the assembly. While some of the spurs might have been necessary as separate pieces the micro tiny ones were unnecessary in my opinion and were included only to confound the modeler and enhance the part count.

As you may have noticed that after tedious cleaning I primed the entire model with a uniform coat of flat grey primer. There is a reason for this. The model being cast in two colours makes it hard to spot flaws and crevasses were grey resin affixes to the white body component. You will note on the video that even the purported professional author's spurs are misaligned even when contrasted with the white body part. This will become more apparent when the model is painted a more uniform colour and the spurs are picked out as in mine where they will be blue/black. By painting everything the same colour the eye can more readily see the misalignment and correct it before the glue dries.

Above I mentioned using a pin to pick up and place the millimeter sized spurs in place but even that proved inadequate. I now am impaling the the insidiously microscopic spurs on the tip of a NEW # 11 Xacto blade much as I use to install individual rivets on my scratch builts.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Theophony wrote:
Looks good to me

Besides my priming skills would layer enough on there to hide it either way

At a buck a can you can't afford not to prime with aerosol primer, the trick is to never spray on so much that the model appears wet. In this case you want the primer to be the thinnest possible layer that lends a flat dusty appearance to the model and giving the acrylic a good surface to adhere to.

Remember priming is not painting per se so much as to give the object a uniform surface that allows the pigment paint's true hue to be apparent. The more homogeneous the surface the less number of detail obliterating coats of paint is needed.

A few years ago I just stopped priming my models, it works fine since I only use plastic models for the most part, and my skills aren't anywhere near great to begin with. Some stuff I will prime, but something always happens with either temperature or humidity to mess it up and then it becomes a recovery job . It's why I rarely paint anymore, and just build or play unpainted armies.

Head Appendages:

The cheek appendages mount in the recesses below and aft of the eye and judging by the way they are moulded are supposed to angle down a degree or two. There is a left and right mandible so care must be taken that the sculpting of the cheek continues into the sculpting of the mandible, if it doesn't you have them upside down and on the wrong side.

There are square holes in the cheek recesses but no corresponding pins on the mandibles so I drilled and implanted my own 1,5 MM styrene square stock which serves to align and strengthen the glue joint.

http://i.imgur.com/sY7kJLG.jpg


Note the strip sticking out of the right cheek the left mandible already dry mounted.

Here you see the variety of tools I used to fair the mandibles into the cheeks so the glue seam is less visible. Note the cyanoacrylate glue I am using, it bonds super strong dries quickly and is thick enough to be useful as a seam filler that can be sanded and carved

http://i.imgur.com/hxFUPdU.jpg


The trailing edge of the mandibles require some fairing in in spite of my efforts but that could not be helped. the Needle files and diamond files made short work of the indiscretions.

http://i.imgur.com/YwmdaWF.jpg

Evil pinhead bug alien, literally as there are pins in its head now.

Have you tried using stuff like instant mold to copy small bits? Can't remember seeing it in any of your threads.

I was cautioned not to cast parts.......

Piece of Cake

As far mas FW models are concerned getting this Hierophant ready for painting was a piece of cake. Right now it is sanded,cleaned, primed and assembled apart from the sub assemblies in a couple of work sessions and it would have been done sooner except I had to fabricate replacement parts. Maybe all totaled 10 hours work.

You can't tell from the photos but the top surface is grey primer and the underside of most of the components are primer white over grey primer.

http://i.imgur.com/5jMhGHb.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/xdVStx4.jpg


In the images below the head is just stuck on with tack putty I'll be painting that seperately

http://i.imgur.com/MF9EpDf.jpg


Note the hole in the second from the front arm socket. For once FW put the vent core in the right area so it can be used as a ready made assembly pin. taking advantage of that will give me a good solid leg mount.

http://i.imgur.com/kN0iOT7.jpg


I'm sure that was purely unintentional or FW would have lopped it off before shipping. Buggers!

Wow. Loving this. Great work so far. I think, that you should experiment with the paints that you have and bring one model all the way up to completion before you start work on your biotitan. Just a thought.

Love the work so far though. Great job.

Just say NO to auto append.

Just wondering about the jig you have the body mounted on now: Is this a temporary solution or will it need to be incorporated into final product?

sennacherib wrote:Wow. Loving this. Great work so far. I think, that you should experiment with the paints that you have and bring one model all the way up to completion before you start work on your biotitan. Just a thought.

Love the work so far though. Great job.

I'll bring the Hierophant up to the level of the rest of the army and then proceed en masse with the Bio-titan painted last on each step.

Kandle wrote:Just say NO to auto append.

Just wondering about the jig you have the body mounted on now: Is this a temporary solution or will it need to be incorporated into final product?

The plate is just an old decopage base I had lying about and the model is plugged into a piece of coathanger wire as a temporary stand. All the little spurs sticking out may break off if I lay it on it's side so suspending it is the best way to sideline it.

I bow to your obsessive lunacy. Love how your lucky find is becoming your whole world...

We're Gonna Need a Bigger Boat!

Or a least a bigger pipeline to a paint source. I just blew through my entire stash of 'Khaki Brown' base coat paint and I haven't even finished base-coating this beast. I started with full strength "Vallejo 'Model Air' " but ended up diluting it 50/50 or I wouldn't get the basic body parts covered with the what I had on hand. Fortunately I have Amazon prime so the needed paint should arrive tomorrow. Meanwhile I can proceed with the accent P3 'Umbral Umber' brown on much of the model so I won't be held back too much. I have half a vial of that left so not enough for the Chitin back plated but enough to add shadow to the underbelly, legs, head, and tail.

http://i.imgur.com/IDGjvFj.jpg


I think this beast will work well with the colour scheme I have selected but its size may require a lot more detailed highlights for the exposed tendons and connective tissue.

http://i.imgur.com/oBjkAqu.jpg

Man, the Hierophant is looking awesome! Very interesting that you used epoxy to repair part of it- I've found I just can't control epoxy well enough for working with models, as it seems to get everywhere... but I'll have to reconsider it now (or a different type, as you suggest).

don't you mean "were going to need a bigger Boot" to stomp these roaches? Can't wait to see these painted up. You should consider possibly getting some Madagascar hissing cockroaches to take to games when/if you play these later on. Just drop them on the table as random elements to mess with your opponent.

 RiTides wrote:
Man, the Hierophant is looking awesome! Very interesting that you used epoxy to repair part of it- I've found I just can't control epoxy well enough for working with models, as it seems to get everywhere... but I'll have to reconsider it now (or a different type, as you suggest).

I should consider a tutorial using the A4 epoxy; I've used it for years and its quite forgiving after the initial 'gets on everything phase'. The best thing to do is transfer a blob onto the part to be repair and wait a few hours where it becomes as malleable as clay and only slightly sticky. Then you can cut and shape it into a reasonable facsimile of the part you are duplicating just be sure you don't break the bond with the piece being repaired but even if you do once cured it can be re-affixed with cyano-acrylate glue. You can vary the hardening time by adjusting the resin to hardener ratio but its best to leave it to cure for 24 hours after you're finished shaping it.

When fully cured it can be cut, sawn, drilled, filed and/or sanded into any shape you want. I used it in this case to make broke rib ends, and the tiny leaf like structure in the mouth that is indistinguishable from the original.

The Bigger They Are:

It's as I always maintained the bigger the model the easier to work it. Naturally it requires more paint and the detail will be daunting but for the basic effects say the shadow between the ribs where it was hit or miss/touch and go for even a model as big as a Trygon this model actually required spraying from two directions to cover the shadows.

The images below do not do it justice and I am practicing on the bottom portion of the ribs but the effect is just right to the eye. Once the highlight of 'Light Brown' is applied to the exterior of the ribs there will be a very natural contrast............. I hope, ..... well I'm reasonable certain, ... er or I'm completely blowing it............

http://i.imgur.com/49q1sOj.jpg


I may even need a second application of shadow............

http://i.imgur.com/TBBdeGD.jpg


This is more like a dinosaur dig..........

Those look like actual bone there, kinda creepy, but then it is a bug.

Wait it gets worse, thanks for the bump.............

The Roadkill Titan:

Looking for all the world like a roadkill desiccate carcass on the side of the byway. This is after the second coat of ultra thinned Umberal Umber which finally penetrated to the sublevels of the connective tissues.

http://i.imgur.com/PLSVxz8.jpg


This model is an amazing piece of casting. The ribs seem to go down at least two levels below the surface openings between the ribs. How they managed to extricate the mould from the casting is beyond me. Perhaps a variant on the 'Lost Wax' method.

When your done with this model you should take it back to the yard sale to show the person. Or was it one of those mega mall sized yard sales, in which case just go find five more of them.

Harridan Hijinks

No doubt that GW/FW (tongue in cheekedly)named their flying Titan Harridan in deference to irate spouses haranguing about the money wasted on such childish nonsense. Never mind that she has a closet full of dresses and other apparel that was only worn once but can't be again because everyone has seen her in it while you still wearing the same suit you graduated in and she changes her hair style/colour as often as you change your socks. I consider myself a patron of the arts and the FW Tyranid Titans are definitively that, art.

With that rational set aside I set about preparing the Harridan for priming and painting.

The first order was to modify the wing mount recess to accommodate the excellent root casting vent so thoughtfully provided by the casting.

http://i.imgur.com/VrLXw8d.jpg


After squaring up the plug I sketched in the approximate position for the plug recess. I want my wings detachable you see as the model wingtips are so delicate i'm afraid they might break off in handling

I always liked the Hierophant model (your's is looking fantastic by the way) but was never too keen on the Harridan design,
and looking at your detail pics of the Hierophant makes me want to jump in a start work on sculpting my own Harriden.
Which I will do at some point, but for now, other projects need to be finished .

The Harridan was a bit of a disappointment to me as soon as I saw it because you just can't stick wings on a body and have it convincingly work anatomically. The Harridan is just a Bio-Thunderhawk.

The wings as they are cannot flap, the carapace interferes with the movement of the wings, no allowance was made to allow for the movement of the wings, there are no shoulders to mount adequate support for the wings and musculature and there is no wishbone to anchor the flight muscles.

The Pteranodons of the Mesozoic come closest to what the Harridan represents but even they had shoulders and musculature that permitted flapping. The Harridan as designed clearly could not get off the ground.

Interestingly enough the Tyranid Gargoyles address the above issues and have shoulders that could permit flight..............

I would be interested when you make your sculpture, keep me in mind when you start.

Yeah as soon as I start it I'll let you know.
Not sure when that will be though as I'm still waiting for my two Tervigon's to arrive,
so I can build my Haruspex and Hive Crone conversions.

Looking good! Your blogs are always a learning experience

Thanks, I try to be entertaining.

Rhymes With Orange:

I went a bit overboard with the orange highlights on the Hive Tyrant and (what are these little dudes) Ah yes Termagants. so before I backtrack and repaint the legs I took some pictures.

Airbrushing highly thinned orange kind of sneaks up on you and the orange looks much more intense once it dries so use it sparingly because if it looks right when its wet it'll be too orange when it dries.

http://i.imgur.com/b4YfYbU.jpg


While I'm waiting for the Umbral Umber Formula P3 paint to come it's a good time to bring the Hormagaunt brood up to speed. I'm trying to paint everything at once so as my technique improves everything will be at the same level of accomplishment.

Here we see a close up of my first work Termagants left and my most recent work yesterday the Hormagaunts which still need the carapace fringes highlighted and the orange glazing.....

http://i.imgur.com/8ElvTYh.jpg


Termagants much too orange!

http://i.imgur.com/x9s66CU.jpg


and the basic painted Hormagaunts............

http://i.imgur.com/JiRX0Ed.jpg

The last time my wife complained about that

Arguement ended

Ha you got that right, I've seen that mess on our bathroom vanity more times than I can count.

Much better than my retort, "Ya know I don't have to lift the seat, I can pee right over it." when my wife complained I don't put the seat down.............

That answer did not go over too well.

lol I bet that earned a day or two in the dog house.

Okay so yesterday I cleaned primed and painted the base coat on the Harridan and cleaned the flash and mould plugs/vents off of the Chaos Warhound and this morning I cleaned the flash and mould plugs/vents off the Lucius Warhound which is now in the process of being primed. Its been a busy week but now time for pictures

The Harridan wing root recesses were cut out to receive the extended plugs moulded into the wing roots so there is a nice solid connection to stabilize the wing without gluing.

Note the slot I cut in the wing recess to receive the moulded plug.

http://i.imgur.com/QLINaT1.jpg


The model is primed and the underside painted a flat white prime and allowed to dry overnight to receive the acrylic paint a thin base coat of Model Air Khaki Brown.

The upper surface I left in grey prime as the top base coat will be P3 Umbral Umber.

http://i.imgur.com/vdTDYWQ.jpg


With wings attached this is an impressive model the top view showing up the diminutive figure beside the head.

http://i.imgur.com/X8fFiaI.jpg

I don't think fw does good enough of a job showcasing just how big some of these kits really are. That last pic really brings home why they can charge what they do.

Cool goal, organic cockroach colored, I was even thinking then I would go further, shiny lacquer them with hairs using static grass for that extra creepy feel.

There's a lot of work before the semi-gloss glaze goes on.

Oh Yeah:

Finally got my paint yesterday and started painting the upper scoots this morning.

I had serious reservations whether this huge beast would lend itself well to the cockroach theme until I saw these images. Oh Yeah, that's what I talk'n 'bout...........

I painted both sides with about 20 drops of thinned Umbral Umber and I wore my index finger out holding down the trigger; I had to switch to my thumb but the first coat is finally on.

http://i.imgur.com/ilOfHs8.jpg



http://i.imgur.com/CX6xcIJ.jpg


I still have a concern if the Harridan will look good in brown. I can't do the entire top surface of the wings all one colour and they're too thick for the parchment technique. I'm thinking maybe tiger stripes

Ah, may want to use a "cave cockroach" patter as they have a mottled pattern

A Tale of Two Titans:

Last night I couldn't get the airbrush to work right so I soaked the components in brush cleaner overnight and everything is working fine this morning.

The image below shows the two Bio-titans bodies, the Hierophant with a solid brown carapace and the Harridan with the beginning of a tiger striped effect that I am experimenting with; I think it needs an intermediate stripe on each scote.

http://i.imgur.com/wduE5xH.jpg


The image below shows the Hierophant and the bottom view of it's head which I am having so difficulty. I left the top of the head grey and I feel that if I make it all brown it won't look right as the head is so small in proportion to the body it will be overwhelmed if only picked out in brown.

http://i.imgur.com/oWvF8Dv.jpg


The legs and weapons on the other hand are coming along splendidly. At the moment they only have two colours sprayed on but the airbrush allows such variety that they look like they required more colours and work than they actually did.

http://i.imgur.com/wIRYPN6.jpg


For someone who in January could not even get paint through the nozzle of an airbrush my technique has improved dramatically. An affect that I can attribute to the excellent "Precision" AirBrush shown in the images.

For thirty bucks US it's an astounding airbrush and bargain plus the shipping is free.

Awesome-looking Nids, though I can't help think of the Cluster Lizards from LEXX...

For the head a lot of the pics I have seen have a more yellow scote right before the head and then the head appears more black than the brown of the rest of the body. Maybe that is a way to give the face more definition.

Beautiful scheme, properly organic. ^and omg lexx reference!

I think some yellow spotting would help the beast pop, a contrast while maintaining the feel of the thing.

A Harridan Cannot Fold Its Wings:

It seems to me a Harridan must fly it's whole life. It has no legs to spring into the air as some birds do or sprint forward to gather ground speed so the wings can assist take off as larger birds such as the Albatross do. Add to that the carapace interferes with the ability to even fold the wings let alone flap. The small rear appendages are not sufficiently long enough to allow the wings to flap in close proximity to the ground so a static flapping takeoff is out of the question as well.

So the scenario is the Harridan is launched from the hive Mother-ship, do what Harridans do and somehow get back to the mother-ship where there are no doubt cradles that house the Harridan where not in active service.

That said this model and the Hierophant is the simplest FW models imaginable. I bought and painted both in less than two weeks of sporadic attention in which I also cleaned and prepped two Warhounds and drove to and from Florida and attended a Baptism.

Below are images for your edification and probably need no explanation:

http://i.imgur.com/XjZ1Bap.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2UMV0ba.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/z1OtvhD.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/wWqjVo8.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/rfZbm0a.jpg

 The_Blackadder wrote:
So the scenario is the Harridan is launched from the hive Mother-ship, do what Harridans do and somehow get back to the mother-ship where there are no doubt cradles that house the Harridan where not in active service.

Maybe they fight until killed or the planet is completely pacified. If still active once the planet's defenses have been neutralized the Hive Mind triggers a massive internal Hemorrhage and it is vacuumed up with the rest of the biomass to be recreated when needed again.

I had read that about tyranids but it seems to me viewing the models of these Bio-titans that they are ancient. There are scars and age related stress cracks and fissures that would not be present in just off the shelf creatures. I suppose we have to wait for a more esoteric response from a real 'Nid Geek.

BTW I mean "Geek" in the most respectful of terms.....

Maybe its more like a winged serpent?

 inmygravenimage wrote:
Beautiful scheme, properly organic. ^and omg lexx reference!

I think some yellow spotting would help the beast pop, a contrast while maintaining the feel of the thing.

Oh hey, I'm not the only person who remembers it! Now THAT show was nightmare fuel when I was a kid, some weird but really dark/creepy things that could easily be re-purposed for 40k.

...Maybe a 40k-style 790?



...Right. I'll stop derailing the thread now! XD

the nids have special psycher powers that no mortal has seen because the world will have been pacified and everything devoured by then. The powers teleport the ancient bio titans back aboard the motherships where they are cradled within the huge biomass and receive sustenance to give them energy for the constant flapping. The harridans are dropped from orbit and occasionally get pooped out so they are teleported back up to momma for some more nid milk.

Totally made up just as good of an answer as you will probably ever get.

Aw ya had me goin' there for a while.....

I want some true made up "Facts"; you know, like global warming......

The stress cracks are from it crash landing after wearing out. The Titan does not die but is dormant until the world is pacified. At which point the feeder tentacles from the ships in orbit descend and retrieve the bio titans. The dormancy if often mistaken by idiot guardsmen who run up next to it to get a vid pic to sent to their loved ones next to it. Let it be known no guardsman has EVER been photo'd next to a crashed harridan and reported back for duty.

Edit:also

Without the lower jaw looks like a redneck cousin to the rest of the hive
[img]upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/47/Redneck_hillbilly.jpg[/might]

I was wondering about its jaw, it makes more sense that it is absent

A Thirty Dollar Airbrush:

I love my $30 dollar airbrush. I can't imagine what airbrushes that cost ten times as much can do that this little jewel doesn't?

I just returned from a hiatus in Georgia, picked up where I left off painting the Hierophant legs. It's a shame that the camera doesn't pick up the depth of the paint on the legs.

http://i.imgur.com/qLZXWvw.jpg


I can see down three levels of pigment which gives the muscle an extremely lifelike appearance; almost repulsive to see, just what you want on your Tyranid Bio-Titan.

http://i.imgur.com/M1IYslo.jpg


I'm not giving any credit to my painting abilities, I give all the credit to the airbrush. I still can't paint for beans with the other brushes I have.

http://i.imgur.com/AyentaO.jpg


And the Paasche Talon Still sits in the box virtually untouched...

http://i.imgur.com/i5wI2MS.jpg


If you're having trouble getting the results you want with you current airbrush I heartily recommend the Precision PZ-360XS.

http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Airbrush-Valve-Crenelated-0-2mm/dp/B004KNDQMM

Free Shipping.

Auto appended....not today

Dsteingass here on dakkadakka does great work with the cheaply airbrushed also, I just need to get my compressor working again to try it out as well.

Here Come's The Weekend Baby What's Goin' On:

Do we put our feet up baby or party all night long?

Well I vote for "Party" but I am frequently outvoted so I retaliated and decided to work on the Hierophant with the following results:

http://i.imgur.com/TRBH7Qy.jpg


Most threads I've seen show the finished results but I have decided to throw caution to the wind and show the interim steps i.e. the masking because of course this thread is a tutorial and has to show how it's done.

Not that I am to be taken as "God's spiel" being a novice at airbrushing but alternatively a firm believer in, "If I can do it you can do it....."

Anyway (as you may perceive the weekend imbibement is firmly taking it's toll) I have started detailing the painting of the Hierophant

http://i.imgur.com/QftaXyT.jpg


The Above two images were from earlier this week but today I started highlighting the scutes with AV Light Brown and it is providing satisfactory results:

http://i.imgur.com/3w0vh9Y.jpg


Note the 3M tack putty isolating the areas to be painted from the already painted parts.

http://i.imgur.com/hIm8kYM.jpg


Because this model is so big the process is taking much longer than I am accustom but by Monday I hope to have the carapace completed.

Really getting to look like real parts of real animals. Good job.

Dry Run:

After a week of masking, painting, installing armatures I finally reached a point where everything is coming together.

The Hierophant was the most difficult to do as the chitin segments were quite a bit smaller than the Harridan's on average and the leg armour was quite intricate to get right.

I watch the 'BuyPainted' video over and over with envy over Jaro's seeming ease in applying finely controlled layers of pigment.

http://i.imgur.com/SwmDRCF.jpg


Of course the images displayed here reflect only the two base colours 'Umbral Umber' and 'Light Brown' over a base coat of 'Khaki Brown'.

Hard to believe I am only in the second stage of painting and washes on these magnificent beasts............

http://i.imgur.com/T485Ur5.jpg


I seem to have got a lot of mileage out of two colours and am about to move on to the next layer a subtle orange wash.

http://i.imgur.com/L08Ez4s.jpg


More important is the pose I have decided upon; the Hierophant rearing back on it's haunches in a more threatening stance than the typical four on the floor plodding image.

http://i.imgur.com/LD1LXEd.jpg


Hence the armature.............

Next the Harridan which is in about the same stage of completion........

That's looking fantastic so far , and I'm so pleased you decided to repose it,
as the original pose was very static.

Thanks,

Harridan Wings and Chitin:

After quite a bit of thought I decided to just do the wings in hand rubbed P3 'Umbral Umber.' First applying a base coat of Cardboard Carton paint and letting dry over night



which is a flat beige similar to the AV 'Khaki' but a lot cheaper for large coverage.

I then airbrushed on a light coat of 'Umbral Umber' and rubbed it into the base coat while still wet working the paint into the base coat with wetted thumb and palm of hand until excess came off in fine rolls. This gave a glossy parchment texture to the large wing surfaces.

http://i.imgur.com/TP8rEWz.jpg


The large flat surfaces of the wings came out a bit blotchy but that should be rectified by the next coat of AV 'Light Brown':

http://i.imgur.com/KbQOvIR.jpg



The fringe of 'Light Brown on the chitin segments look too perfect to my taste but we'll see when the washes are applied...........

http://i.imgur.com/YHaEoPp.jpg

Wow that beast is looking great. I like the concept of cockroaches with perfect armor.

Makes me want to break out "La cucharacha"

Thanks,

The Gargoyle Brood:

Well the Gargoyles have finally caught up to the rest of the army; interesting how I found them the most trying to do of all the denizens.

I would be interesting to see these flying in formation with the Harridan on a gameboard.

http://i.imgur.com/a56c9OZ.jpg


Figure included for scale...........

http://i.imgur.com/OC9OhJl.jpg


So the next step I guess is to finish up the orange wash on all the pieces.........mebbe tomorrow.

A couple of off white balance images to round off the evening:

http://i.imgur.com/yKzQ2mW.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/kfFsmHD.jpg

While they look great now, I can't wait to see them with the orange tint to them. Great work on this horde, it will be well worth it in the end.

Hodgepodge:

I needed to see where I stood regarding going to the next step in the sequence of steps to a completed Tyranid army.

okay so the box at the right are the components that still need to have the chitin skutes edged with 'Light Brown' and the box on the left are ready for the 'Orange' highlight. I managed to do about a third today so what is in the box to the right are what remain to be done..........

http://i.imgur.com/Q8xpQkm.jpg


On an aside the Bio-titans are ready for the 'Orange' highlights and don't figure in to this and are not in either box.

What are in the box are the:

Trygon 50% ready

Carnifax 50% ready

Tyranfax 50% ready

Hive Tyrant 100% ready

and the Termagant Brood 100% ready.

and it just dawned on me I have to figure out what parts go to what beastie?

Ha!

That is the beauty of the hive, you can have "mutations" if you happen to glue the wrong part to the wrong critter it could be the next great evolutionary step or a Missing link or you cousin you never talk about (if you don't have one of those it might mean your THAT cousin).

A Question of Acrylic Paint Thinners:

I'm running out of Airbrush thinner and was about to order some on Amazon but the shipping costs are prohibitive.

Then I read a critique on the AV Vallejo paint thinner and the Tamiya Thinner and was apprised that Vodka was an excellent replacement for the much more expensive commercial thinners

So I am going to try using Vodka to thin my paint........ with

Perhaps a drop or two of dry Vermouth

What next Blackadder; an olive perhaps?

Well stock up on the vodka, if it doesn't work out as a thinner then I'm sure slyly can find something to do with it.

Hive Tyrant:

The Hive Tyrant was my first Tyranid unfortunately a metal construct (Metal is good thought I) so it will be the first to receive full treatment starting with the 'orange' highlights.

Spraying on an Orange 50/50 dilute AV Model Air at the lightest spray my 0,5 orifice Point Zero PZ360XS airbrush can achieve deposited just a hint of highlight, my first attempt earlier this year made everything too orange.

http://i.imgur.com/XqcT0Wh.jpg


I assembled the basic 'Tyrant legs, head, and tail fortunately the weapons clip on so but sets temporarily attached:

http://i.imgur.com/ngFwgHW.jpg


This beastie will have wings (purchased separately ebay) so the redundant weaponry is just for show the other CC armoury will be magnetically attached........

http://i.imgur.com/BnVPrRU.jpg


Next will come the satin varnish which I'll apply tomorrow after the acrylics have completely dried.

http://i.imgur.com/x4Cd6fR.jpg


Then the fine detail colours; teeth, veins, black talons, pink and purple poison sack etc will be applied. perhaps the points and edges will stop shedding paint every time the model is touched.

Now for a well deserved tumbler of my special blend paint thinner....Cheers!

Hopefully you didn't get the thinners mixed up , sorry, I've been missing the last couple o days, trying to get my airbrush sorted and paint mixed properly.

I'm a little nervous about the pink and purple idea though, doesn't seem "natural", then again poison sacks on cockroaches only occur in Australia .

A Study In Black:

A very productive day although the images belie the effort.

After applying a satin varnish to about all the pieces of the various models I spent a substantial portion of my modeling time to applying black paint to the claws and talons of all my Tyranid army.

Below is a representative of these so I am in phase three of four the project where after applying the varnish.

http://i.imgur.com/atFEXTl.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/BnvyLe5.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/S5UYoAP.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/AtAHD9S.jpg


Still to do is the teeth and the various washes and of course the final assembly.

Rhymes With Orange Again:

Was this over the top, I can't tell.

I'm hoping I didn't go too far with the orange highlight and the oil wash will tone it down a tad. I certainly need to blend the tail into the body and the black spurs I hope are not a mistake.

http://i.imgur.com/FlHSjMJ.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/J5XLKfU.jpg


The red mouth and tongue are only base coated and will be subdued with purples and blues and black oil wash

http://i.imgur.com/Von3NTm.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/QW74VuP.jpg


Perhaps I should have primed the d-mned thing grey and let it go at that.........

I love the color. I think the oil was will tone it down perfectly. Keep going

Agreed, looks stunning. Love the orange.

Okay, I'm home and have had a couple(3) hours of sleep, and am on my iPad now instead o my phone so I can see it much better now . I think it still looks perfect, no worries, carry on.

This is looking like a great army and is providing me with plenty of inspiration to do my own - thank you!

Dang! I see the Monster legs and think "Crab Legs"

She is a pretty one isn't she!? a pretty big one at that too! lovely work again with this army, the browns are a great choice and you've been whipping out some real jealousy inducing models dammit!

Is this you?

No not quite, while there is very little doubt that The Blackadder is certifiable he hides it well with a staid and benign visage.

M0rdain,

BTW would you please remove the 'spoiler', it locks up Dakka for some reason and I have to restart my to unlock it.

Thanks,

As for "jealousy inspiring" aside from some outrageously fortunate finds at a craft and hobby outdoor market most of the models were purchased at extremely reasonable prices on 'ebay' and 'Amazon' likewise the paints and the airbrush which I cannot praise too highly.

As far as the colour scheme I borrowed that entirely from Jaro of the 'Buypainted' youtube video as well as what technique I could discern from his detailed visual.

The recently acquired ability to apply paint I attribute to the above mentioned airbrush because before obtaining I had not airbrush painting abilities whatsoever. Since using the 'Point Zero' PZ-360XS Airbrush:

http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Airbrush-Valve-Crenelated-0-2mm/dp/B004KNDQMM

with its infinite 'air and trigger control' adjustments I have gained quite a bit of confidence and technique so I have reached a point where I rarely use the trigger control anymore which I liken to, "The training wheels being adjusted high on the bicycle."

This was and is the source of all I have accomplished in this thread...... :thumbs:

When I was first introduced to 40K I found the concept of a cold blooded, hive minded alien race of reptilian/arthropods wearing their skeletons on the outside intriguing but I was put off by the circus clown 'Leviathan' colouration; once introduced to a more natural colour scheme the Tyranids matured into a believable more realistic antagonist. and a worthy compliment to my IG force.

I really like this realistic colour scheme on your Tyranids. The look amazing still in WIP so they'll be gorgeous when finished.

That side on, WIP, group shot where you can see all the scales of tyranid creature is great. I love how they blend in to a sea of writhing, slashing and gnashing teeth and claws, which is exactly how they're described in the fluff. Superb.

The two big beasties are looking most impressive. The Hierophant pose is great just now, is that the final pose you're going for or are you going to go with the "staring the enemy down" pose that is standard?

In my Shelf display I want my Hierophant posed toe to toe with my Warhound in the configuration shown in the above image.

To accomplish that the body will be reared back facing up to the cockpit of the Warhound bio-cannons etc pointing menacingly. Once on the game table the pose will be a more standard configuration but I'll have to see what can be done.

There is very little flexibility on the posing of this model and the tail between the legs is a definitely limiting feature.

When I make my Warlord sized Bio-titan it will be more pose-able.

No, I have no design as yet for this gargantuan beast; suggestions are welcome...........

Love the Hierophant so far, and the orange is looking fine. Keep going!

 RiTides wrote:
Love the Hierophant so far, and the orange is looking fine. Keep going!

As may be appreciated I have a lot of irons in the fire and I need to devote equal time to all the projects as much as practicable. Right now I am working on the Thunderhawk and next week I may switch to the Reaver project. I find I get stale on ideas and grow bored when confined to one endeavor so to be most productive I have to switch. Years ago when I produced Lucie and I was working in my basement workshop there were weeks on end when it became a chore to pick up where I left off on that project and therefore Lucie took over two and a half years to produce. On the other hand Luteus Vexzant the Warlord, a much more complex endeavor took less than 18 months to produce to it's current state and I still having fresh ideas for Luteus and am currently working on an interior.

The Reaver project has demanded in actuality less than six months of my premier time and the Tyranids less than four months even though I am currently learning a new skill i.e. 'Airbrushing' which will do me in good stead as painting skills will carry over to the less than inspired primed models such as the Warlord and derelict Baneblades.

My big problem is rampant ennui so jumping from project to project actually stimulates rather than dilutes my creativity.

Please bear with my particular form of psychosis.

Just ordered the airbrush you pimped there , mine hasn't been working and I had just ordered a $200.00 compressor . I look forward to your next update, whichever thread its in .

I'd like to hear your critique on the 'Point Zero' airbrush. I started with a 'Master' gravity feed but did not have the control to maintain a consistent trigger position for fine line detail. With the PZ-360 with the adjustable trigger stop I had that control until now I find I can usually forgo using the stop because my technique has improved. You sound as if you are more accomplished with an airbrush than I was so it will be interesting to get your opinion. I think the PZ-360 is an excellent training tool but an expert may have a different view. Anyway at $30 buck you can't go very wrong.

I'm just as much a noob with an airbrush as you are, maybe more so. I was given a master g23 airbrush, but was using a compressor from a nail gun which stopped working, so I got a new badger compressor two weeks ago, but he the brush wasn't working right . I'll let you know how this works out though .

That Hirophants coming along nicley, and I think the Orange Looks fine in the photos,
It's a good contrasting color to the rest of the body and works really well .

I keep looking for the airbrush you suggested on the UK Amazon, but its not there :(

 M0rdain wrote:
I keep looking for the airbrush you suggested on the UK Amazon, but its not there :(

Did you click his link? I did and they show in stock.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004KNDQMM/ref=redir_mdp_mobile
I got mine on Friday their shipping time is slow and the case was all jacked up, but it is working great for base coating my genestealers . They don't look as pretty as these, but still very buggy.

I'm not sure what has happened but I can't see any of your images any more, I just get some text that looks like a link to a jpg but that link leads nowhere. Are you hosting your pictures differently than you were?

You probably won't find the Point Zero Air Brush on the UK Amazon.

I only have a link for the US Amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Airbrush-Valve-Crenelated-0-2mm/dp/B004KNDQMM

I don't know what the shipping would be to the UK but it shouldn't be much. I believe the brush is worth the extra cost.

InyokaMadoda:

No same image host but someone else in Jakarta also is/was experiencing problems with the images. The problem resolved itself in a few days.

Must be testing the new 'quality' of service once the internet is taken over by the UN.......... Another reason to thank our Fearless Leader.

What Big Teef You Have:

I wanted to show the teeth on the Hive Tyrant before I oil washed it. The teeth on the Gargoyle is done with just AVMC White 70951 but the Tyrant has three paints applied in order; AVMA Light Brown 71027, AVGC Bone White 72034 and AVMC White 70951

I really can't see much difference:

http://i.imgur.com/KJqPHhx.jpg


What is showing up to a distressing degree is the yellow fluorescing of the Orange highlight which I hope is being caused by the combination of Curly Fry lighting and digital flash.

http://i.imgur.com/Kc8umZ4.jpg


In this third image I turned off the flash and the proper colour is somewhat restored but still looks much more orange than it does in natural lighting.

http://i.imgur.com/XEhaeLo.jpg


The Hive Tyrant also has a coat of AV Acrylic Clear Satin Varnish with which I am experimenting. It seems a bit expensive to force water based Varnish through an airbrush when a perfectly adequate Acrylic Satin Varnish is available in aerosol spray cans. Anyone have experience using either?, and the pluses and minus' of each?

Home Stretch:

I'm about three quarters way through the second Buypainted video on all my Tyranids:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJha39IUztU

Where I just applied the satin varnish to the models, Jaro can talk your way through this much better than I can.

http://i.imgur.com/ycrd3c6.jpg


Now I need only finish the claws, teeth and mouths, apply the wash and seal the models.

http://i.imgur.com/Zx9tvZS.jpg


This is but a small sampling of the models; missing from the photos are the Harridan, Tyrannofex, Gargoyle Brood, Ternagant brood, and Hergamont brood.

http://i.imgur.com/11N6pfX.jpg


Following Jaro's Trygon instructions and transposing them to the rest of the menagerie I managed a reasonable facsimile of his work; not perfect but better than I hoped for.

http://i.imgur.com/jqD09Y4.jpg


Interesting that the Trygon head is about the same size as the much larger Hierophant's head.

http://i.imgur.com/ztH32OK.jpg


The rest of the models after the varnish finishes drying.

They look amazing . I copied off your/Jairo's color scheme, but brushed most of it on my meager bunch of bugs. I didn't go nearly as bright with the yellow, but looks decent, not close to this though.

I thought you bought an Airbrush?

Thanks,

Some brain droppings as I wait for the paint to dry................

Tyranid Dentition:

It strikes me as I work on these monsters that they are not all carnivores.

True the Carnifex and Tryannofex have the teeth of meat eaters Theropods e.g. Tyrannosaur, Tarbosaur.

http://museumvictoria.com.au/images/featureimage.jpg?&i=/pages/11035/Tarbosaurus.jpg

likewise the H. & T. 'Gants and the Gargoyles being analogous to Raptors and Pterosaurs although there is speculation that some Pterosaurs were fish eaters.

The Tyrgon and Harridan have the dentition of fish eaters

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/89/Mounted_Spinosaurus.jpg

The Hierophant is decidedly a vegan having small peglike teeth similar to herbevorous Sauropods e.g. Apatosaur, Camarosaur etc:

http://www.nature.com/polopoly_fs/7.954.1319710272!/image/Dinosaur.jpg_gen/derivatives/landscape_630/Dinosaur.jpg

This goes along with the small head and huge abdomen which would be a fermenting vat to break down fiber the resulting methane could be modified into toxic weapon chemicals and of course flatus........ they never mention this in the codex.

--
E. Blackadder

Trust Me, It's Not That Yellow:

Well at the suggestion of one of my readers I messed around with the white balance and ended up with a blue Hierophant:

http://i.imgur.com/cbHDFwO.jpg


You would think the yellow would change but no just the rest of the model has this weird blue glow instead, Ha!

So I put the setting back and changed the venue and we're back to the orange highlights looking yellow.

http://i.imgur.com/MDgduYn.jpg


Meanwhile the Varnishing continues after a deluge of biblical proportions yesterday where I daren't apply varnish in that type of humidity.

http://i.imgur.com/zfj5fb6.jpg


Putting the time to good use priming the Chaos Titan.

The blue looks good with it too, but not enough to repaint .

I did indeed buy he airbrush you suggested, and it worked great for the basecoating. I just haven't messed around enough with it for detail work. Plus when I started brush painting I got into the groove, and finished all I had

All your taste is in your mouth

Blue bunnies indeed!

Hey a Rabbit skeleton might be just the thing for a basis for my Nuln Queen Bio-Titan but I think I'll stick with the giant centipede on the first page. That would make a fantastic Nuln Queen.



Picture that rearing up 2/3 meter tall against the Warlord................

Meanwhile:

Meanwhile: ????????? Either the centipede got you or something didn't take. I hope for the later, but will take pictures of the action if it's the former.

Yeah, it's a tease

Isn't it Norn Queen, not Nuln Queen?
Nuln is a province of the Empire.

Giant centipede titan sounds cool.

Not so much a tease than sloppy editing however that dangling "Meanwhile" has provoked more responses than any of my updates lately.............. ?

If you google nuln queen images you come up with dozens of 'Alien' style figures likewise with Norn queen however none are of sufficient stature to take on any of the Main Battle titans such as the Warlord. The carbonifous arthropod 'Arthropleura' is sufficiently alien in appearance to fill the bill on both counts.

Thanks for the replies...

Theophony, I'm anxious to see/hear of your airbrushing progress since I so heartily recommended that particular brush.

Well unfortunately he kids are out of school for the summer so getting enough time to break away and airbrush doesn't happen too much. It was going to be a jump start for me getting many things basecoated in short order. It worked as I got 50+ nids basecoated and then did the details with a brush. It was the first considerable sized force I've done in quite some time (decades). My current projects have been working from a white primed basecoat using just washes and inks so I haven't tried spraying those. I've been hoping through armies lately just painting what I feel like at the time, but think I'm going iron warriors again, with a non standard color scheme which is all inks and washes. I'm really excited to see you create the bio titan as I wanted to build a giant centipede robot about two years before forgeworld came out with their necron centipede.

I always thought the nids would take the titans on by swarming them

King Kong movie style.

But I would definitely be down for giant centipede

Eaten by wetas, not a good way to go.....

Hierophant Attaching the Legs:

I used Locktite 5 minute epoxy to attach the legs.

http://i.imgur.com/R6Cl3Rq.jpg


The rear legs have a huge attach point cup and knuckle to apply glue so modification was not necessary

http://i.imgur.com/Iz1PxTz.jpg


but the front legs attach point is rather flimsy so I did the following. When I first received the model there were vent plugs moulded into the front attach knuckle; I left those and instead drilled receiving holes in the cup socket.

http://i.imgur.com/zHvkLFA.jpg


Being rather paranoid about the durability of such a heavy yet delicate model I went further and drilled reinforcement rod holes in the vent plugs and inserted coat hanger wire rods through the body and into each shoulder to strengthen the joint.

http://i.imgur.com/T5PZ75H.jpg


Note the hole through the body at the second shoulder recess in this off colour image.

http://i.imgur.com/V3TgazN.jpg


Now that this process is documented I can proceed with the actual gluing.

Flashdance 40K

Needs leg Warner's and 80s music

Looking great

Attaching the Front Legs:

Here we see the right front leg attached; I really like this pose compared to most I've seen of the Hierophant. It has an aggressive quality whereas the usual pose has a more submissive/defensive aspect.

http://i.imgur.com/zRIq09o.jpg


The left side view shows of the more belligerent stance to good advantage.

http://i.imgur.com/elTAeBg.jpg


And a close up shows the coat hanger rod protruding from the shoulder ready for the arm attachment.

http://i.imgur.com/JMuJ4GD.jpg


I probably will be putting the guns on pivots so the can be trained up and down. The model is very limited in how it can be posed so the gun elevation is about all you can make variable.

Life Imitates Hollywood:

Rambug
http://i.imgur.com/WpS1Zl5.jpg


Rambo
http://i.imgur.com/9ABWCes.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/ups0mQA.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/Jj5TN03.jpg

So nice to see this thing finally come together, and the paint scheme has worked really well.

Are you planning on doing anything special for the base?

Some Trial Bases:

So after years of modeling I've finally decided to learn how to make bases for my work.

Even though my Titans have screaming need for display stands I figured the Tyranids would be best to experiment on so here's a couple couple I played with last night and early this morning I thought, "Why not 'Skulls'?"

http://i.imgur.com/GqMdgdC.jpg


Rummaging though the bitz box I found dozens of skulls on various Chaos sprues, clipped them, primed with bone white and placed them on the newly primed bases. Hmmm? thinks I, "Something's missing..... Skeletons"

http://i.imgur.com/PIAG7gb.jpg



So I whipped up a rib cage out of wire; it's a tad over-sized but not too bad for a first attempt.

http://i.imgur.com/2DpKwZg.jpg


Once I get the procedure down I'll present a demo on how to make 'em.

http://i.imgur.com/VXnUrZW.jpg


I need to find coarser cork but the sand gravel came right out of my driveway apron.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
No updates until I get someone to run interference please.

I hate that silly 'auto append...'

Dry Brushing:

Dry brushed bases with grey primer. Time to call it a night.......

http://i.imgur.com/6kCHeCC.jpg


G'night


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Mistakes were made:

Well my first attempt at wash was a wash out. Either I did not dilute it enough or I used the wrong wash but the Hive Tyrant has a bad case of Yellow Jaundice. Fortunately it is my experiment model so worst case scenario I strip and repaint it but since it's metal I'm not going to bother.

The Tyrgon will have to wait until I get the wash right.

Meanwhile the bases seem to have turned out okay:

http://i.imgur.com/TXpY8x3.jpg


In order of application:

A Black overall Prime

Grey Prime dry brushed

VA Game Color Cold Grey dry brush

" " " Bone White Highlight dry brush

VA Model Air Earth Brown Airbrushed fissures

VA Game Color Bone White dry brush rock high lights.

http://i.imgur.com/lyNfwyp.jpg


Still have the Trygon mandibles to install but painting wise it's done except for the wash.

http://i.imgur.com/ry6fS2k.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/9QQ46jM.jpg

The bases look great. Myself I'd be tempted to add some kind of Tyranid "creep" to them but I think they look fine as they are.

The nids themselves are looking great too! I love the satin finish on the carapaces. I wish I could get such smooth finishes on my models (maybe I should THIN MY PAINTS a bit more).

Bases look great , exactly what I think tyranids bases should be, devoid of everything. As scavengers they strip all possibly usable matter from the planet surface to use to feed the hive. The skulls....well they are GW models and therefore require skulls somewhere.

 Squigsquasher wrote:
The bases look great. Myself I'd be tempted to add some kind of Tyranid "creep" to them but I think they look fine as they are.

Still some nasty detail yet to add, never fear.

The nids themselves are looking great too! I love the satin finish on the carapaces. I wish I could get such smooth finishes on my models (maybe I should THIN MY PAINTS a bit more).

The satin finish is no mystery, right out of an aerosol Krylon spray can 'Clear Satin Varnish' but alas the 'old style nozzle':



The new style nozzles suck and I don't buy Krylon paint anymore; I'm just grudgingly using up my old stash.



It deposits too much detail obliterating paint and wastes much more than is used. Worst 'executive' move ever. Do not use this nozzle unless you are painting a barn.


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You're Taking Recycling Too Far Blackadder:

No, it's not what it looks like!

Looking for all the world like a dried meadow muffin but in point of fact a wall plaque with cork sheeting and detritus from the end of my driveway.

http://i.imgur.com/qetsBCC.jpg


Close up shows the fine sand, coarse sand and pea gravel used to add texture to the fissures

http://i.imgur.com/ODmGEUa.jpg


The Hierophant posed on all fours in this instance shows that even a base 12 inches in diameter is inadequate to display this sprawling Arthropod.

http://i.imgur.com/o3qLhrv.jpg


So the Hierophant is capable of assuming it's intended pose as well as the more dynamic one I prefer.

http://i.imgur.com/BbXSRGX.jpg


And the 'cow pie' in black prime.

http://i.imgur.com/Vh7nADb.jpg

Trygon and Carnifax bases:

First the bases for the two smaller tyranids:

http://i.imgur.com/gqhO5RY.jpg


These ar pretty much done except for grasses and carnage.

http://i.imgur.com/68b2rwd.jpg


I was thinking a small toxic waste puddle in the center but the dry basin seems enough. I do need to make more skeletons....

Lost in the Shuffle:

I took these images a week ago but forgot to post them:

http://i.imgur.com/XJMSB7y.jpg


A closeup of the base with assorted remains and a few Gargoyles:

http://i.imgur.com/VfrTOFQ.jpg


A few tufts of vegetation would not be amiss:

http://i.imgur.com/OUar94H.jpg



I greatly prefer this pose to the standard submissive one advocated by FW:

http://i.imgur.com/EVaYgAJ.jpg


Of course this type of lunging pose could not be maintained statically any more than a runner can sustain a full trot stance at any split second of his step cycle. It is an instant frozen in time:

http://i.imgur.com/y8nr30j.jpg

Fantastic positioning and love your bases!

Superb work, the whole thing looks fantastic,
plus I like the Gargoyles flying underneath it, really gives it a sense of scale .

Wow Blackadder, once again superb work!
I agree that the gargoyles give a nice sense of the size of this behemoth. I would love to see this on a table (hopefully on my side!)

I have yet to find a Blackadder thread I am not subscribed too =D

 GamesEtc wrote:
I have yet to find a Blackadder thread I am not subscribed too =D

You must also like Schubert's 'The Unfinished Symphony' and Beethoven's 'Tenth Symphony'; not that I am comparing my work to theirs but only that they're not completed also

Helpful Harridan Hints:

So you bought yourself a Harridan, probably one of the easiest FW models to build but also one of the most easily broken.

Why, because of its size and the delicate nature of it's parts. The thinly constructed head and sinuous tail stuck out front and back. The talons hanging down ready to snag on a shirt sleeve and that ridiculous stand is an accident waiting to happen coupled with the thick humongous wings; it's totally top heavy.

Well today we are going to address these issues to save you a lot of grief later on when you use it in a game.

First the head:

http://i.imgur.com/03eV8Ws.jpg


I'm going to magnetize the head fastenings with two rare earth magnets one 2 MM thick for the head and one 3 MM thick for the neck. I used my Dremel and a drum cutter to cut a shallow well on the head about 2 MM deep. The head material is very thin so I dare not cut deeper than 2 MM. i cut a well 3 MM deep in the neck because the neck material is very thick. This will give a strong attachment but also allow the head to be removed for easy transport of this fragile Tyranid titan.

I do not recommend using a power drill and bit because of the thinness of the resin. It's too easy to bore a hole right through the head.

I put a spot of cyanoacrylate glue to temporarily affix the magnet to the head and neck because I want to see how the head is positioned and that the magnets meet flush before I permanently attach the magnets with epoxy.


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http://i.imgur.com/9fr3ljk.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/MmHAORR.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/FQVP1xi.jpg


Well that's just about perfect;

next the tail.

aaa ... now tail goodness ?

Lemme See Ya Shake Your Tail Feather:

The tail is much too long to attach with a magnet but fortunately there's a nice deep socket that it plugs into. It's supposed to be glued into that socket but I have a better way to mount it.

I drilled holes into the tail and the base and with a piece of ordinary coat hanger wire fashioned an internal clamp. Glue the wire into the base and plug in the tail. so it lines up but it's still loose in the socket.

http://i.imgur.com/QgQrmgz.jpg


Bend the wire slightly up so the tail plug is pressing on the top of the socket and there it is, a tight connection.

http://i.imgur.com/XyOVtIO.jpg


That can be easily removed for transport.

Next the wings.

The Harridan Née Thunderhawk:

I call it that because as with the Thunderhawk the aerodynamics are suspect. In short it would be impossible for the Harridan to fly as it has neither shoulders nor sternum keel to anchor the flight muscles and the wings are kind of just stuck on through holes in the chitin.

But it's still a cool model.

So here's the completed model sans the brood gargoyles (I've yet to paint them) in natural light..........

http://i.imgur.com/Va4zAxp.jpg


and flash........

http://i.imgur.com/Gjhjq3t.jpg


I still have a lot of painting to do but I assembled it mainly with rods and plug ins to show the construction is stable without gluing together the pieces.

Now I can disassemble the components for the final painting.

Ewwwwwww. Great work!

Creepy and... real