So, I'm really trying to get back in the hobby. I've constantly have ideas, but i never get around to them. Everyone who's read my thread knows I have a motivation problem. So moving on, I'd like to put out some of those ideas
I'm thinking of taking my Dark Vengence Chosen and painting them using the old Astral Claws pattern. (The orange and stripes, not the silver and blue.) I'm not sure it will work. The DV chosen are really cool models with alot of detail. So I have the perfect orange but I'm worried it will be overwhelmed by all the chaos detail. Thats not the major hurdle, the major hurdle would be fluff... why whould they keep their colours? It states everywhere that they abandon their colour for Blood red ... So stuck ... prolly dead end.
Next idea is finally doing a renegade unit. A squad called "the Oathbreakers" new recruits that left their chapters to worship Huron. This one might help my slump. 10 marines, 10 different chapters, should mix things up a bit. They would be regular marines, nothing fancy except for the red "X"
So as for chapters does any one have any requests?
Lol the Spacewolf I will pass on, because I have too many wolves as it is. but the smurf seems fun. I have to buy blue but I'll give it a go. I do Like that Idea Dee. it might look really cool as one of the DV chosen
Automatically Appended Next Post: Any other ideas..is there anything that is orange. I have some Grabber orange from my '70 mustang Mach1 Im working on and thought it would look awesome on a mini
I like that thanks Moltar. Not sure the fluff, but would they be found with the RCs?
On a side note. I been talking to Spiralingcadaver who is doing Astral Claws and Tiger Claws. He suggested that the Orange Astral Claws could be in transition to RCs. Which gave me an Idea. What if they were lost In the Maelstrom like the SW 13 company thingy. They were lost in the warp before the fall of Badab and recient found. They would be twisted and very corrupted by chaos. Which would explain DV Chosen Models with so much chaos taint.
That could work with my fluff right?
Hi-chiming in here once I saw that you had a painting blog too, yeah, I think that the chosen a group that got separated could work really nicely (and it kind of ties in with the FW story on the tiger claws as a corrupting influence).
I'm also interested in a more sympathetic (though still piratical etc.) alternative history of the astral claws, so it's cool seeing another approach like that.
I wouldn't say alternative history.. more of a different perspective. History is written by the victor and is usually skewed. loyalist propaganda and lies. Huron is the true emperior, but they call him a megalomaniac. What he tried to do was for the greater good. They Destroyed the Astral Claws out of fear. The Astral Claws were becoming too strong and questing the false emperiors currupt ideals.
Hail Huron, Hail the Blood reaver. True Lord of the Maelstrom!
If you look at the Star wars Movies the Astra claws would be the rebels, but instead of saving the universe, they lost.
I gave it a water down wash of guilliman blue glaze. Still dint like it then gave up.
Sorry Whale, I didn't get you post in time. That looked like a great idea. but this morning I ended up doing some freehand. Now it's kinda too late to change it.
Let me know what you think. It needs another coat of white
hopefully it brings it together. I'm prolly gonna cover it in battle damage and weathering anyway
Cool stuff, and yeah, I agree about it being hard, covering designs by red corsair-ifying them. My best experience with it was to incorporate the marks into the logos, so it highlights what's underneath rather than just obscuring it.
Thanks, it really turned out well. I very happy with it. It will prolly take me a while to get the balls to paint "X"s over it. But I'm not sure what you mean by "incorporate the marks into the logos"
I've been working on a few renegades who've joined the corsairs, too. I'll see if I can take some pics, but basically stuff like, the sword on the DA badge is painted over with the vertical spoke of the chaos star, so it's following the original pattern, if that makes any sense.
If you could, I'd really like to see that. thanks. My two issues are the "ultra" symbol and the Aquilla. What would you do for that?
I was just going to pull the arm off, mask and X and paint it red with shading. Then I was thinking throwing on a RC decal over the "X". This would completely destroy the the orginal work. the other option would be just put the RC decal on the shoulder and the U would fit underneath.
As for the Aquilla I was thinking a Chaos star instead of and "X" but I don't know if I have the skills for that or if a decal would look good.
Wasn't the lore mentioning red X's which the renegades used?I thought I saw artwork of it somewhere. But it's really up to you of course I think I like the idea of chaos signs best, perhaps drawing some signs in photoshop on your photos before you put it on your model?
Anyway, love your work on the Red Corsairs! I'm starting a Astral Claws project during the Badab war and planning a Renegade Marauder squad, loads of fun!
Thanks Leviathus, Yes you are correct it is the lore to put the Red "X"s I think it was in the 2nd or 3rd chaos codex? My problem is I didn't expect to like this Ultramarine soo much. I like your Photoshop Idea. Anyone out there in Dakka Land good at photoshop?
Are you going with the New Astral Claws Colour scheme? Blue and silver? Post a link to your project
Ya im pretty excited about it. I read a thread on B&C, where a guy used similar stuff to copy SW skulls and fur. I dabble in casting, but the supplies get really expensive. All my stuff expired. hopefull this stuff is good as they say. I really like the reusable aspect to it.
IMO the red X with the decal is the one I like... BUT it can be too much for a shoulder pad (too busy)... The third option screws up the ultrasign the least, but the decal doesn't really pop.
I like the idea of the red x, but think a hand brushed one that looked rough would look better. If you did it with like a hand print it would be even better.
whalemusic360 wrote: I like the idea of the red x, but think a hand brushed one that looked rough would look better. If you did it with like a hand print it would be even better.
Im not even sure how to do that?
Anywhoo I started something else White Scar. I primed it grey then gave it a coat of white. Then I gave it a waterdown black wash in the shadows
Im really enjoying this. I have never realized how easy it is to paint a marine Thats one colour. Still have alot to do. I have to free hand the shoulder, give it a wash and battle damage.
C&C are welcome
Thanks guys, still a bit to do with it. but I'm having fun. soo much that I thinking of playing a game. I haven't played since 5th ed.
But I have no clue where to start. Which codex to use. I dont have the books. and to be honest I dont want to buy them. I have soo many old ones that are worth nothing.
My options are Chaos (no mutations, or deamons tho), SM or SW. I should really get a new list going so I'm not wasting my time painting models I dont need.
Thanks Moltar. I find blazing orange is a better highlight for red then a pink. Normally i mix a bit of blood red in the orange but I got lazy... and I think i like it
So I received that oyumaru stuff in the mail yesterday and hopefully I get a chance to play with it after work today. I'll keep you posted.
Dr H wrote: Oyumaru is the stuff of the Gods. Love the stuff.
Nice work on the marines and good weathering throughout.
^^X2
So pretty much all weekend I've been playing with my Oyumaru... and burning my fingers. This stuff is amazing. It can be finicky sometimes but the best part is If I don't like it i can try again. I found with OOMOO rubber you are pretty much stuck with the result good or bad. I went through my old OOMOO mold and compared the quality and I have to say that the Oyumaru wins hands down. I remember all the air bubbles holes I had to fix. Mind you I do not own a vacuum tank or a pressure tank for the OOMOO which is needed for good quality molds. If I compare both rubber the OOMOO is alot more flexible then Oyumaru. Oyumaruis pretty hard and strong. Which making more of a press mold
Oyumarui s very easy to use, but like I said finicky. You still can get air bubbles and now even water trapped in the mold. but My favorite part is try again. I see most people use green stuff with Oyumaru and I didn't see many resin examples. but I gave it a try... and it work great with resin. Unfortunetly for me my resin was soo old that most of the time it would expand almost 2x the size. So I gave up on it and tried green stuff. Damn green stuff takes forever to harden. Im thinking i'll pick up some milliputt. Alot cheaper then resin
The re-usability of Oyumaru is definitely the best part. It's lets you try out things without wasting material. Also, being able to cut it up and stick it back together is a great trick.
Milliput works well. I make sure to get the mould wet with water before adding the putty. Makes de-moulding easier.
So I kinda put everything on hold again. I'm really interested in playing this edition, I started reading the rules and I had a friend help me make a list. I figure that i sould update my list to suit 7th, instead of wasting my time painting things i wont use anymore. Here is the list he made for me:
Space Wolves: Codex (2014)
HQ (140pts)
Rune Priest: Psyker Mastery Level 2, Relic: Helm of Durfast, Rune Sword, Armour of Russ, Bolt Pistol,
Elites (615pts)
Arjac Rockfist,
WG Terminator Leader w/ Thunder Hammer & Storm Shield
4x WG Terminator w/ Thunder Hammer & Storm Shield
Land Raider Crusader
Heavy Support (365pts)
5x Long Fangs: 2x Heavy Bolters, 2x Lascannons
Predator: 2x Lascannons, Autocannon
Predator: 2x Lascannons, Autocannon
This list pretty much gets rid of all 15 of my ML marines. The up side Is I get to use my termies and maybe finish my landraider. As for the heavies He suggested that i should have 3 Long fang units of 2 HB and 2 LC. But I find that its more 40 more points for the same number of LCs. Let me know what you think and any experts that can help me make a list for 7th would be appreciated
In the mean time, I started a test model for a lost unit of Astral Claws in the maelstrom.
Now I'm trying to go for the orginal pattern of the Astral Claws. But i think that there is soo much detail in this model that i'm not sure I can pull it off. Few options are:
paint the whole thing orange then add the camo and ignor the detail.
Or only have the large parts of the armour orange and the trim Black with no camo.
Or should I go with orange and bronze trim with camo
Any other Ideas are welcome too
Reference:
I really like IceAngel's Astral claws. but I'm looking for more dirty and pure evil with a twist of the Maelstrom to it. As they have been lost of 100 years or so in the torment. tAs they have truely to the powers of Chaos.
Im really at a loss and not sure where to go from here.
Cool on the Tiger Claw, looking forward to seeing how you execute it.
My thoughts from your concepts- start with the base scheme over the whole model, exaggerate the shading a little around the trim and then paint some of the paint scratched off, i.e. go with something based on the original but with some way of highlighting the chaosy bits so they don't just look ignored.
Otherwise, the standard plus bronze camo with enough oxidation to not muddy the bronze and orange would look good,
All I know is that 7th is about 2+ Armour. Not much is different from a SM list just the HQ and Arjac.
Moslty my issue is with 7th ed missions. Is this balanced enough for all the missions?
This list was suggest to me. I've never played it before. I normally field a rhino rush list in 5th ed.
I tried 6th once and 7th I want to get back into, but the army lists seem so end less that I'm not sure if I should mix it up more
Well, they are kinda. Even if you don't go "unbound" there's almost no limit to the mixing and matching that can go on, especially among the Imperials.
Still, the Maelstorm Missions are a fun (optional) addition to the game and favor fast, flexible forces of strict gun-lines. Most of the old 6th edition power-house lists are still just that. Marines of any stipe are generally not top-tier... but you can put together a decent list if you pay attention to what you're doing. If you're playing with smaller local group or friends, you might not have to worry too much about the 7th edition meta. I guess the nice thing about all the mixing going on with the Imperials is that you can make marines a viable part of a very competitive army, even if your dex isn't the best.
I haven't read much on the new SW dex. You might poke around the dakka tactica areas and see if you can pick up some ideas. (if you haven't already)
spiralingcadaver wrote: Cool on the Tiger Claw, looking forward to seeing how you execute it.
My thoughts from your concepts- start with the base scheme over the whole model, exaggerate the shading a little around the trim and then paint some of the paint scratched off, i.e. go with something based on the original but with some way of highlighting the chaosy bits so they don't just look ignored.
Otherwise, the standard plus bronze camo with enough oxidation to not muddy the bronze and orange would look good,
What do you recommend to shade the orange with? I know I want to do an final Oil Wash of burnt umber to dirt and grime it up. but I need a medium shade that wont turn the model brown. A sepia wash? or Air brush darker orange from below?
Looking through Iceangel's work I found this:
I think the dark shading might make the detail still pop. But I think I might forgo the Camo I think it will make it to busy.
I think I'm starting to answer my own questions here lol
Automatically Appended Next Post:
Gitsplitta wrote: Well, they are kinda. Even if you don't go "unbound" there's almost no limit to the mixing and matching that can go on, especially among the Imperials.
Still, the Maelstorm Missions are a fun (optional) addition to the game and favor fast, flexible forces of strict gun-lines. Most of the old 6th edition power-house lists are still just that. Marines of any stipe are generally not top-tier... but you can put together a decent list if you pay attention to what you're doing. If you're playing with smaller local group or friends, you might not have to worry too much about the 7th edition meta. I guess the nice thing about all the mixing going on with the Imperials is that you can make marines a viable part of a very competitive army, even if your dex isn't the best.
I haven't read much on the new SW dex. You might poke around the dakka tactica areas and see if you can pick up some ideas. (if you haven't already)
ha ha I dont even know what "unbound" is. I guess what it come down to is Im getting ahead of myself. I dont know the rules I no longer now how things work. I guess what I really want to know is. Is there anything in this list that would be a waste of time to paint? I enjoy painting but it kinda sux spending time on a model to only sit on the shelf and not use it. Like possesed marines or whirlwinds. They look pretty cool but in the end they are useless
To start this list I need to make a longer "to do" list
Rune Priest (i dont have one)
Arjac (convert a Chaos Termie)
5 Chaos Terminators ( I have 20 of them but no thunder hammers and shields)
Finish my Landraider I started a long time ago
Finish my Rhino
Paint another rhino
buy a Lascannon Marine
paint 2 Predators
In the mean time, I started a test model for a lost unit of Astral Claws in the maelstrom.
Spoiler:
Now I'm trying to go for the orginal pattern of the Astral Claws. But i think that there is soo much detail in this model that i'm not sure I can pull it off. Few options are:
paint the whole thing orange then add the camo and ignor the detail.
Or only have the large parts of the armour orange and the trim Black with no camo.
Or should I go with orange and bronze trim with camo
Any other Ideas are welcome too
Reference:
Spoiler:
I really like IceAngel's Astral claws. but I'm looking for more dirty and pure evil with a twist of the Maelstrom to it. As they have been lost of 100 years or so in the torment. tAs they have truely to the powers of Chaos.
Im really at a loss and not sure where to go from here.
Perhaps you could do the entire model in the yellow/orange colour, do the trim in a brass/bronze metallic (so it's not too contrasting with the base colour) then do the black tiger stripes in the flat areas between the trim?
So I sat down at my desk and picked up the mini and stared at it for 20 mins..then put it down.
I ended up playing with the oyumaru stuff again. I cant say it enough this stuff is awesome!! Some of my molds that I made was pretty decient. If I made the mold with rubber i would accept the quality. Instead I made it better. Two part mold and the 2nd part wasn't getting under some areas. So I did some cutting to match the mold line of the piece. Took all the srcaps and the top part, remelted and made a new top mold. It took a few tries and my finger tips are burnt and raw, but the new mold turned out perfect.
I'm hesitant posting pictures of copies of sculpts that I didn't do. The oyumaru is clear and you cant see any details.
If you are interested I can send you a PM with pics
Heavy Support (330pts)
4 Long Fangs 2x Long Fang w/ Heavy Bolter, 1x Long Fang w/ Lascannon
Predator 2x Lascannons, Autocannon
Predator 2x Lascannons, Autocannon
So I started working on Ulrik the slayer ... but I dont have one! I want him to be respesented by one of Huron's Chaplains. i will prolly have to do some research on this to find a match. Someone must be training new recruits the ways of the Space marine!
I still haven't fully decided on this yet but I was thinking of using this guy as a count-as Ulrik
The reason Im on the fence is:
First off I dont think im going to repaint it black.
And 2nd is the weapon, I understand that it is not a Crozius Arcanum, but If I squint my eyes it kinda looks like one. Converting it wouldnt be too hard but i really like the model. So this may only be temporary fix.
Moving on. I went throught all my bitz looking for a skull head and after no luck I decided to make my own!
I want a 3/4 coverd helmet with the "visor" area a skull. I want the chin and mouth exposed. This might be beyond my skill but here goes.
I started by picking a head...
... and shaving it.
I havn't decided if I want to keep the ponytail or not. But the head looks pretty cool bald.
Next up is to make a mold of a skull and green stuff it. i picked this skull. Mostly because its square looking.
The list looks like it would be fun. Not sure on the long fang unit to be honest though, they don't have much punch to them anymore. I would consider changing them for another pred, that would make your entire force mobile which is fantastic for maelstrom missions as the preds can now take objectives. If you had the points and cash and played with FW then a Sicaran to go with preds would be nice.
Thanks GiraffeX, I have over 20 termies and I never really got to use any of them. So I'm hoping it will tons of fun. Ya I dissappointed in Long fans too. I had 15 ML ones and now they are expensive and not even that great. So I dusted off the Predators. I had to google the sicaran battle tank... that thing look awesome! gotta save my pennies (I guess its nickels now)
How many points is it?
Soo I was up to the wee hours trying to get this stupid Green stuff to work! I got to say I was getting pretty Angry! Nothing was working right. The shape of the skull kept getting messed up. For a while i couldn't win..I must have dropped it like a 100 times. each time getting more angry. Another thing that kept bugging me was the ponytail! it kept getting in the way and every time I get the skull on it would always be crooked...evertime. So after throwing the piece across the room, I grabbed different head. I'm not sure where I got it from, but its the frankenstein looking head:
Normally when I get to this point, I stop for the day and try again another time. But I hate wasting green stuff and it was starting cure. Thats when the green stuff got harder and less sticky. Then it got easier. I got the front finished and I let it cure all night. I took a quick shot before work:
you can still see his frankenstein hair on the sides.
I got some more work done on the Chaplain Helmet. It didn't turn out how I orginally planned. I wanted a skull mullet. lol. Skull in the front and helmet in the back. But as I was sculpting the shape kept looking like a skull. So eventually I gave up fighting it and made it all skull. cracks and all.
What I need to do next is add an helmet ear piece on the left to match the right and beef the bottom helmet ridge
Little update. I added a helmet side ear piece to the one side of the head to match the otherside. but then it ended up looking uneven. so I made the other side larger. and I primed it.
I went on the you tube to look for painting ideas when I came across thid video
and after one of these =>
I remembered that I have this model. Its in my Dark Vengence set...So i had a chaplain helmet the whole time!!
He also has a Crozius Arcanum, which I might cast
Side note: I bought some Milliput superfine to try on a push mold. I mixed in some green stuff to give it more flexability. My first attempt failed badly. I forgot to put talc powder on the mold and it got pretty sticky.
My second test turn out amazing. I went with 50:50 milliput and green stuff. the detail was amazing and its not brittle as pure milliput or rubbery like green stuff
Little update:
I'm trying to get a playable army up and running. so I'm not going to be painting the head anytime soon.
Things to do:
HQ (145pts)
Ulrik the Slayer, (he will be in the LRC as well) (head painted, needs Crozius Arcanum, and paint) PLAYABLE
Elites (615pts)
Arjac Rockfist, (with his shield brothers) (need to buy him or make something up)
WG Terminator Leader w/ Thunder Hammer & Storm Shield (need to magnetize arms, prime and paint)
4x WG Terminator w/ Thunder Hammer & Storm Shield (need to magnetize arms, prime and paint)
Land Raider Crusader: Multi-melta (need to convert Godhammer to LRC, with magnets, finish painting)
Troops (410pts)
10x Grey Hunter: 2x Plasma Gun (90% complete. need painted plasmaguns) PLAYABLE
Rhino (90%complete Need to paint storm bolter) PLAYABLE
10x Grey Hunter: 2x Plasma Gun (90% complete. need painted plasmaguns) PLAYABLE
Rhino (40%complete Need to finish painting and add storm bolter) PLAYABLE
Heavy Support (330pts)
4 Long Fangs 2x Long Fang w/ Heavy Bolter, 1x Long Fang w/ Lascannon (Complete)
Predator 2x Lascannons, Autocannon (needs to be painted or red "X",magnetize sponsons and paint)
Predator 2x Lascannons, Autocannon (needs to be painted or red "X",magnetize sponsons and paint)
Here goes, I sat down last night and got a bit done. I managed to magnetize the two preditors sponsens. Both Lascannon and Heavy bolters. 20 or so magnets and 20 holes. I dont use a dremmel because it tents to melt the plastic. So I roll the drill bits by hand. I have to say after 20 holes my fingers are pretty raw!
Pics:
Predator 2x Lascannons, Autocannon (needs to be painted or red "X", and sponsens painted painted) PLAYABLE
Predator 2x Lascannons, Autocannon (needs to be painted or red "X", and sponsens painted painted) PLAYABLE
I didn't like most of the tutorials on magnetizing the sponsens. They don't allow the gun to move up and down.
I just cut off the nubs and drilled out the center and put a magnet in it. open up the hole a little in the guns and glue magnets in them.
The other way is to replace the nubs with magnets but then you have to cut out more the the gun and to get the othe magnet deeper. you also end up using more magnets this way.
Automatically Appended Next Post:
Edit: I just saw this image
^^^ This is prolly a better way to do it. Damn I wish i saw this before.
I didn't get alot done last night. But I did manage to disassemble my LRLC sponsens. While doing so I broke the center post. Which is no big deal because I need the crusader/redeemer center post. I also managed to magnetize the LC just in case I ever need them.
Next step Shield Brothers. I magnetized all the arms. then primed them black from below and then primed Dragon red from above.
I'd like to give a shout out thanks to Nerdfest09 for helping me with taking photos of red. I changed to a darker background and used less light. I've always read that more light was better. THats why my reds were always washed out looking. So for these photos I moved the lights further away for the light tent.
The middle one, the body was primed a long time ago and painted blood red. it doesn't have the shadow from underneath and you can really see the difference. I need to highlight them up to blood red and give them a wash and the reds are done. But for now they are playable
WG Terminator Leader w/ Thunder Hammer & Storm Shield (need to paint) PLAYABLE
4x WG Terminator w/ Thunder Hammer & Storm Shield (need to paint) PLAYABLE
So I haven't been posting anything because life gets in the way of warhammer.
But I wanted to post this
In June the 'old Crow and I went to Jamaica for our vacation
And I did this...
It happened the first night we were there. weeks in advance I set up a private dinner in a gazebo on the ocean. 4 course meal, candle light, private waitress. Blah, Blah, photographer, blah, blah $$$
Also for the setup, I started complaining about not getting certain services at our resort and told the misses that our agent was going to do something about it. So that evening when we got there I told her that the Resort set up this dinner to make up for the misunderstanding. Wink wink (how else do I get her to go out on to a doc with a single table, and not have her guess)
Anyhoo. Back to the dinner, after we get the appetizer (shrimp salad). I very obviously and very over acted. I picked up my spoon and said "Oh no! I have dropped my fork!"
She looked at me weird and replied "Um, okay, ... that's your spoon?!" Being nervous I didn't realize I grabbed the spoon instead.
I went down to pick up the spoon. put it back on the table and went to one knee and asked her to marry me.
I Completely caught her off guard!! Tears of joy filled the ocean. She had no clue!
If you wait 16 years they will never ever expect it, and the shock and awe is worth it!
ANDREW BARKER, VARIETY.COM
Dec 28, 2015
, Last Updated: 9:00 PM ET
LOS ANGELES - Ian Fraser Kilmister, widely known as Motorhead vocalist and bassist Lemmy, died of cancer Monday in Los Angeles. He was 70.
The band confirmed his death on its official Facebook page, saying, "There is no easy way to say this...our mighty, noble friend Lemmy passed away today after a short battle with an extremely aggressive cancer. He had learnt of the disease on December 26th, and was at home, sitting in front of his favorite video game from the Rainbow which had recently made it's way down the street, with his family. We cannot begin to express our shock and sadness, there aren't words. We will say more in the coming days, but for now, please...play Motorhead loud."
I know I have't done anything in a long time, But the itch has always been there. and I finally got to scratch it. Now its not much but it is a start.
I bought Arjac Rockfist and I primed him Black from below and Dragon Red from above
I also fixed the Battle brother leader to match the rest of the battle brothers and added a Cape so he stands out (and capes are Badass!). The photo is too bright and you cant see the shadow. I will retake the photo with a black background that seems to work better with red
For things to do, I'm still pretty much where I left off:
HQ (145pts)
Ulrik the Slayer, (he will be in the LRC as well) (needs head painted, Crozius Arcanum, and paint) PLAYABLE
Elites (615pts)
Arjac Rockfist, (with his shield brothers) (40% complete, Need to finish Painting and Basing) PLAYABLE
WG Terminator Leader w/ Thunder Hammer & Storm Shield (40% complete, Need to finish Painting and Basing) PLAYABLE
4x WG Terminator w/ Thunder Hammer & Storm Shield (40% complete, Need to finish Painting and Basing) PLAYABLE
Land Raider Crusader: Multi-melta (need to finish magnets and painting) PLAYABLE PLAYABLE
Troops (410pts)
10x Grey Hunter: 2x Plasma Gun (90% complete. need painted plasmaguns) PLAYABLE
Rhino (90%complete Need to paint storm bolter) PLAYABLE
10x Grey Hunter: 2x Plasma Gun (90% complete. need painted plasmaguns) PLAYABLE
Rhino (40%complete Need to finish painting and add storm bolter) PLAYABLE
Heavy Support (330pts)
4 Long Fangs 2x Long Fang w/ Heavy Bolter, 1x Long Fang w/ Lascannon (Complete)
Predator 2x Lascannons, Autocannon (needs to be painted or red "X", sponsons magnetized and need paint) PLAYABLE
Predator 2x Lascannons, Autocannon (needs to be painted or red "X", sponsons magnetized and need paint) PLAYABLE
As of this point my list is now Playable!! Minus a few Heads lol!
Your Arjac figure looks fantastic. He's going to rule the table once he's all painted up! That's a great selection of models you've got laid out in your list Styro. Should make for a really great, really old-school "not-Space Wolves" list.
Great to see you back! Looking forward to many-a-delightful update in the future.
I hope to stay, I really hate it when life gets in the way of Warhammer 40klol
In my hiatus I lost grasp on the game I have no clue about the books codex or rules. I have no clue if this list is even any good but I'm dedicated to it, this is the closest I have ever been to a completed list.
Also in my Hiatus I have lost a lot of followers and I'm really glad that you are still around
Anyhoo Pics
I retook the photo with a black background, so much better
Don't fret Styro. People will come back readily enough if you start posting regularly and actually see projects through to completion. You might actually get some new subscribers too.
So I've done some blacking out and its really bringing out the model. I'm also thinking of using these bases I bought a while ago. they are great for desert or lava. My theme is desert
I'm not sure what to do for the shield gold/bronze skull and silver star or all gold/bronze
I think there would be more contrast using the silver... but it might be a more cohesive look if you use all gold/bronze. You could paint the skulls in a natural color if you wanted a focal point though.
I think you'll find most of the people subbed to your blog are still here. It's way easier to stay subbed and just let it sink off their page than actively unsub.
I've never been a big fan of the CSM rhinoface termi helm, should be interesting if you can change my mind.
Thanks Whalemusic! I like the Rhino helm more so then some of the multi horned ones. But the way I posed this on will be like he is ramming the enemy with his shield
On Saturday I ended going to GW and bought some paints. I don't normally buy GW paints but I've been wanting to try some of the new stuff
This is what I bought (cost over $40)
I bought the Retributor Gold so I can give Damo's dirty bronze technique a try. I bought Eshin Grey to try it for highlighting black. Agrellan Earth looks pretty cool for desert bases
I then bought a few pots to update my flesh painting. I still have dwarf and elf flesh. When I first tried it out I couldn't get it right and eventually I got so mad that I stripped it. 2nd attempt was just as bad and I stripped again. unfortunately after the 2nd bath I kinda lost most of the detail on the head. So I had to grab another mowhawk head and cut off the mowhawk.
This is my 3rd attempt on the newly modified head:
That head looks really nice. Is that just those two GW paints and nothing else? What was it you figured out that made it so easy?
As for eyes, I have two options;
Most simply, I paint the base colour of the face, then paint the whole eye black, then paint of the whites either side of the pupil, just leaving the pupil black, then re-outline the eye, then go around that with the base colour of the face again.
For more important models, I still paint the face, then the whole eye black, then fill in the whole of the eye itself white, leaving just a black outline. I then use a very fine brush t put in a light blue or light brown dot, followed by an even smaller black dot. I find it almost impossible to do this very netly but practice is leading to improvement. Finally, I go around again with the skin base colour. This way takes forever, so I only do it on a few models.
Finally, and I am finding this really helps, I am doing a thin red wash where the eyes and nose meet, and down to the mouth, before finishing painting the face as normal. It seems to make the face have more natural colour variation.
That advice is Gold Thanks Fifty, my eyes get squirrely painting eyes lol
That's only the two paints and the Fleshshade wash.
I used to use, orgyn flesh, tallarn flesh, dwarf flesh, elf flesh, bleach bone...all these in different ratios 2:1 3:1 etc it took for ever and I hated it.
So this is very simple. all I did was a base coat of rakarth followed by Flayed one then a wash of fleshshade. and topped it off with a highlight of flayed one.. done
I reckon you nailed it! that pad looks wicked Styro, the bare head is great as well and the Termies are really coming along nicely! it's cool how sometimes just a little different addition (the bronze pad) can change how the model looks and feels, to me it's more Corsairs now with some ancient plate and weathered appearance probably nicked off one of his mates when they got splattered
I concur. I've also tried to emulate the Nerdmeister's wizardry and had good results (though not as good as the master himself). Keep at it man, it looks great!
Thanks Damo, I'm not used to painting like this, It is soo random. I've always like clean and cut. Even my battle damage on my Rhino looks clean. I find It is also harder to picture the end result this way. When I see your first WIP pictures of your figures the look messy and out of place. but your end product ends looking phenomenal!
Thanks Styro, I can see what you're saying, I certainly do go in quite haphazard at the beginning and get washes and shading down then go back and paint by numbers on the details, it takes me less time focusing on one section at a time, armour-do all armour, then leather-do all leather, metals-do all metals, lenses...etc. I find the final highlights and damage is where you can give what looks rough that edge of crispness and painted look. :-)
I find it hard to do it "haphazard". I need to plan it out. It's prolly why your stuff looks natural. like I said practice out of my comfort zone.
Which I did, on my Champlain Helmet. I wanted a dirty skull. like it was fresh when the skull was added to the helmet. I wanted it like it was rotting and covered in dirt... and Smelly.
Ah, makes sense now. I just wasn't aware of what I was looking at. You might work just a bit of pink into your flesh tone to set it off from the brown of the skull.
I got a bit of an update, I managed to get some painting done. I highlighted the red and black on my Shield Brothers and painted gold and bone areas brown. I also added a base to 2 of the termies just to see how it looks.
For the highlighting I decided to pre mix bottles of the colours. I made two bottles. One with 50% black and 50% Hawk turquoise. the other bottle I used 60% hawk turquoise and 40% Eshin Grey . I originally bought Eshin Grey as a pure highlight, but I didn't like how it turned out. I prefer a Bruce Wayne black with that slight hint of blue. Mixing it with the turquoise work out perfect.
I ended up taking a lot of photos but I have only edited a few so far. I will be posting them as I can. I'm actually doing work at work today so it might be a while
Thanks, I find the grey highlighting tends to dull down black. some times turning the black into just a dark grey. But blue gives it that crisp look and even a kinda comic book feel
I'm kinda at a loss for what to do with his chest? Should I paint his chest black and leave the spikes or arrows red? or paint them black and leave the chest red. I worried that there is soo much black on him as there is. Another option I was thinking was painting it silver?
Any thoughts?
So I bought a new needle and tip for my airbrush ( I dropped the previous tip down the drain ). So I looked around for something to air brush and found a few items that needed to be done for this list.
Plasmaguns:
My list needs plasma guns for my grey hunters. Previous version of my list I had melta guns. So its time to switch it up. I magnetized them so I can swap them back when the next version of 40k changes and plasma becomes lame. I primed them black from below and dragon red from above. I AB a shot of bloody red from above then gave it an pin oil wash of burnt umber. cleaned it up with a Qtip of turpentine. Then a touch up of bloody red and a fine highlight for fiery orange.
I started blacking out some areas until the drop of paint in my pallet ran out ...and I got bored.. and quit.
Photos (taken with my phone too lazy to set up light box):
Top left is the one I did a while ago, this is the base to compare to. Top right is the Chaos version for my Chaos squad and the other two plasmas will be for on for the SW squad and the other for the SM squad.
More to come Just need to edit photos between work
Automatically Appended Next Post: Predator Side sponsens:
Just cropped this photo. I did these the same way I did the arms above. Side note I really hate taking photos of red. The side on the lascannons are actually dark red to black. I did these before the arms (its where most of the black went)
I also did my hurricane bolters Sponsens on the Landraider but I guess I forgot to take pictures
Nice to see some progress! nice rich red so far on the arms, the way I take pics of red is to use a bit of card in front of my flash so it doesn't wash the colour out, it takes experiment and some patience but once you get it, you'll be set dude! :-)
Thanks Damo, I don't use the flash when I use the light box, but maybe I use too much light.. I find that the light box with a black background gives me better pictures but still cant capture Red properly..could even be my camera it's over 10years old
More pics:
After I got bored, I started highlighting this head. then gave it a wash of badab black
Years ago my Airbrush fell off the holder and landed on the tip of the needle and bent it after the first time I used it. Many months ago I drop the tip down the drain.
And Now while cleaning the brand NEW needle that cost me $70... I go ahead and drop it!
I just can't win. I was soo happy to finally have a perfect needle and get some good clean pattern and after the FIRST time I use it, I drop it. The whole Time I made sure I was so careful and I choked! Watching it fall was like slow motion NNOOOOOOOooooo......
and of course I bent the hell out of it! I manage to make it semi straight but I guess I'm not destined to have a good one.
I ran out of bleached bone and haven't been able to paint any of the horns, skulls, trophy sacks or even my bases. So I went to the local GW and picked up some new paints. I bought Ushtabi Bone to replace bleach bone. While there I also bought Rhinox Hide, Zandri Dust, and Nuln Oil.
Hey Styro... I'm still boggled by the fact that you pay $70 for a needle.... I'm paying around $6 I think... no more than $15 for sure. What brand are you running?
Joys of living in Canada. We get charged double sometimes triple US prices
Yea the dollar is par ...oh no we must raise the prices. Man the dollar is dropping .. we must raise the prices. Gas is soo high.. We must raise the prices. Gas is cheap... We must raise the prices
The prices are too high lets increase the minimum wage... Now we can raise the prices again
[/rant]
I actually bought both the needle and the nozzle. The needle alone was like $20 +taxes +shipping
Yep, Especially if your other hobby is a Mustang. Parts are very pricey to ship and if you buy them here you pay double.
I'm looking to buy a set of tires. Nitto Extreme 555. In Canada the tires are almost $300-400 each and have to be purchased at a specialty tire shop. I can buy the same tires at a Walmart in the States for $150 each
Thanks. She's a fun toy, but when she breaks down it can get pricy.
Last November, I threw the clutch release bearing on the track. I haven't driven it since. I'm just this weekend getting it fixed. New bearing and since the tranny is out, I might as well replace the clutch. So I got a Centerforce duel friction clutch.
I can't wait to drive. Most of season is done but I can prolly hit one last track day
Looking really good! what pointers are you after? it look fine to me :-) and what sort of effect are you wanting to do on your hammers I wouldn't go crazy since the termies already look really eye catching!
Thanks guys. Here are more pictures. I ran out of time last week and didn't get a chance to post them
@nerdfest09, Just the shoulder pads not sure if I did it right. to me it doesn't look right. As for the thunder hammers I was thinking of trying something Like the power sword and maul I did a long time ago
It looks pretty good to me Styro, the metals are kind of personal to your taste but remember to layer the washes and add the scratches between each layer to give them depth :-)
Styrofoam04 wrote: How do I stop it from just turning brown. After 3-4 layers it kinda stops being metal and becomes brown
Try using different coloured washes and you can also apply a light drybrush of the silver over the pad in conjunction with the scratches which brings that metal to the fore you'd be suprised that how a small amount of a certain colour can trick your eye into making the assumption the entire part is made from or coloured in metal,bone,rust etc. so for instance a bit of silver on the top curve of the pad will make you think that the while lot is metal.
I bought a new camera for our wedding in November and I got to play with it. It a Canon Powershot SX710 HS. Big upgrade from my 10 year old 5mp camera. New camera means figuring out how to use it. I must have taken 100 photos of the same model with different settings and light
Ahh the old hair pulling problem of a new camera! so much potential but so damn tricky to get right! I do the same thing by taking heaps of shots, some with the blinds open/closed/half open/flash on/flash off/flash on card in front of flash. then you pop them on the computer and realise only two are actually usable lol :-)
nerdfest09 wrote: Ahh the old hair pulling problem of a new camera! so much potential but so damn tricky to get right! I do the same thing by taking heaps of shots, some with the blinds open/closed/half open/flash on/flash off/flash on card in front of flash. then you pop them on the computer and realise only two are actually usable lol :-)
Yup! Even after you figure out the right combo of all the settings, light locations, blinds, distance, white balance, aperture, iso...After memorizing the perfect turn out... the next time you do it... It turns out garbage and then you start all over playing with all the settings again!
But that doesn't bother me too much.
What's bugging me is, now that I can get really great shots of my work, I'm realizing that I'm a messy painter. I also figured out that I don't like these metal paints. They are pretty sparkly.
Just stopping by the subscribe and congratulate you on you're amazing Red Corsairs! I've recently taken them up to, as an auxiliary force to my Alpha Legionnaires, and I was wondering about your decals. Could you possibly send me a pdf or somesuch of them so I could print them? They look amazing!
Thank you! I want the Hounds of Huron/Red Corsairs done up as a Gorepack formation, with some additional auxiliary forces, such as CSMs in Rhinos and a Mayhem Pack, as I don't think the Helbrutes match the less Chaosy feel of my Alpha Legionnaires.
I don't have a current blog, but it'll be up in soon, I'll post it here when I get around to it
Styrofoam04 wrote: I cant wait, It will be refreshing to see your take on them.
It might even give me some well needed inspiration to get to the painting table
Airbrushing today, so I can at least give you a WiP I'm gonna go for a Vallejo Red (Gory or Blood, I think) and an Agrax Earthshade to make dirtier. I'm gonna do that black as Eshin Grey and 4-5 layers of Nuln.
Hello guys, it's been a long time. A buddy and I are thinking about getting back into 40k... But I have no clue were to start?
The last time I played was 5th Ed.
What edition are we at now?
Are the Red Corsairs still a thing?
In 5th I was using space Wolves because they didnt have a renegade codex
So What codex should I be looking at?
Are my models still relevant? Last I was working on were these shield brothers terminators.. I got to find them and dust them off
Styrofoam04 wrote: Hello guys, it's been a long time. A buddy and I are thinking about getting back into 40k... But I have no clue were to start?
The last time I played was 5th Ed. What edition are we at now? 9th Are the Red Corsairs still a thing? Sure In 5th I was using space Wolves because they didnt have a renegade codex So What codex should I be looking at? Still no renegade book, but SM with supplement or the very needed and hopefully soon CSM book
Are my models still relevant? Last I was working on were these shield brothers terminators.. I got to find them and dust them off Depends how you want to play. Loyalist SM still have firstborn but also Primarias marines. There wouldnt be many renegade Primarias guys, but you could very much run an all firstborn army.
If you're playing Red Corsairs as renegades/chaos aligned (which I'm assuming you are) then wait for the new Chaos book. Then the rest of the terminology doesn't really matter
Firstborn are the old style space marines, with Primaris being the new super sized loyalist ones.
Aah cool thanks. yeah I guess I'll wait, in the mean time maybe I can paint....tho I'm not sure what to paint!? Or if anything I paint will be usable.
Chicken and the egg.
I used to play them as Space Wolves. Captured gear and that stuff that make spaces marines taken form the wolf of fernis. I was doing some wolf mutations but not sure how far I got.
If you want to carry on playing them as Space Wolves, then it gets a bit more expensive in terms of books as there's now a generic space marines codex that includes all the common units and equipment, and then on top of that is the Space Wolf supplement that adds on the SW rules and special units.
Depends if you want the big chaos beasties, or lots of standard marine equipment?
Yeah I guess I forgot about that part of the hobby...the cost ... buying all the books is going to get pricey
I think I want more Marine equipment.
On another note.. I just re-read this whole thread and I'm kinda overwhelmed. Don't know if I can get back to that level of painting.. I don't even remember how I did half of it. My paints are all prolly dried up. So I'm gonna have to go through everything
I'm really liking those sheild brothers is that a thing still?
If you're going for more the standard marines approach, you could account for the primaris units as veterans; heap them up with mutations etc. to account for their bulk and extra wounds. That way you don't then lose out on some of the neat new toys.
I don't play space marines, so I'm not sure about the shield brothers. I suspect they are now just Wolf Guard
but i decided to pick up from there. I built the rest of the chosen. Primed them in black then white from above. Then VMC light orange followed by VMC bunt umber in the shadows. I'm a bit rusty so it messy. i also dont remember how to take photos so that took aboot 2-3 hours... and after all that i dont know what photo site to use anymore. i used to use photobucket. so ill have to post phots once i figure that out.
Automatically Appended Next Post: i hate taking photos!!! Im using Post image. If any one knows of a better one let me know.
Too bright, everything looks flat and the orange is yellow
TOo dark now you cant see the brown
and the rest
and i cant find the right drill bit for the boltgun all i can find is the tiny one
These models have soo much detail. I'm not sure how to proceed. How do i make them astral claws that have been lost for 300 years?
I haven't heard from Ice in a long time, however I think he's still out there. Try giving him a bump by PM. If you can't reach him, let me know and I might be able to snag him for ya.
Not a lot. Did a bunch of Bushido miniatures which is still the best skirmish game I've ever played. I keep wanting to make progress with 40k but just haven't had the drive. Have played a bit though... that always makes things worthwhile.
I closed down all my other threads and just have the massive one now. It's not very active but there are still a few folks who keep an eye on it.
(see link in sig)
I hear you. The main reason for me to get back into this is that an old friend and colleague got me excited about it again. We'd like to start playing again tho I'm not really sure anything will come of it. Especially since neither of us played since 5th Ed. Prolly 8-10 years or so?!
I'm also not sure how keen I am about re-buying and reading the new books
But I do remember enjoying the painting aspect. Then there is part of me kinda wants to sell everything
For some reason on my tablet I can't see anyone's sig
Actually, 9th is pretty good. They also have a decent system for doing campaigns and keeping track of units/bonuses called Crusade. The book is a bit of a nightmare as the basics are scattered all over... but once you get used to it it's a pretty clean system.
endtransmission wrote:Nice to see some Badab war camo in circulation again! I can see why you're a bit unsure... the camo is going to be hard to see around all the bling!
thanks, yup that exactly the issue. i keep staring at them?! no progress
Gitsplitta wrote:Actually, 9th is pretty good. They also have a decent system for doing campaigns and keeping track of units/bonuses called Crusade. The book is a bit of a nightmare as the basics are scattered all over... but once you get used to it it's a pretty clean system.
My buddy bought the book and gave me a quick overview.. the only thing that's disappointing to me is that they dumped the templates... nothing was more funnerest then dropping a plate on a unit!
I did a few mock ups on some old shoulder pads.
First one is tiger stripes over the icons
Second is normal with battle damage no stripes
Third is clean with Icons blacked out
Let me know what you think before i tell you my thoughts
With the first one I think the iconography would still be visible, rather than painted over though so you'd be fairly close to the second anyway. Actually... hear me out... what about a 4th option where the tiger stripes are paint scratched off, like the battle damage?
endtransmission wrote:First or second look best IMO.
With the first one I think the iconography would still be visible, rather than painted over though so you'd be fairly close to the second anyway. Actually... hear me out... what about a 4th option where the tiger stripes are paint scratched off, like the battle damage?
To be honest when i did the stripes, I tried to do them like claw damage, but they turned out like that.
whalemusic360 wrote:I;m with Endtrans (I think). 1 but with the emblem painted up and everything weathered.
Hey Whale it's good to hear from you. What have you been up to? I'll give it a try but with out the chipping for now might be too much?
Arakasi wrote:Middle looks best to me, but you could try running the tiger stripes under the icon…
thanks will do
So I took the 1st one and painted the icon let me know if this is what you guys where thinking?
This kinda what i was thinking.... I try to paint the stripes underneath with the mutations and icons come out from it or on top. No idea how I'm gonna achieve this with the mutations... maybe some kind of blending
The way you have done it above will probably be the quickest and easiest. Blending is definitely an option if you go from a darker brown/pink/green all the way up to something lighter, doesn't necessarily matter if the stripes aren't pristine around mutations anyway.
DaemonColin wrote: The way you have done it above will probably be the quickest and easiest. Blending is definitely an option if you go from a darker brown/pink/green all the way up to something lighter, doesn't necessarily matter if the stripes aren't pristine around mutations anyway.
Keep up the good work!
Your prolly right I'm over thinking it
SO a rumour note:
I read the Red Corsairs will be getting a Legion Trait
Red Corsairs
"Advance and charge, models count as double for objectives (10+ wounds count as 5)
Doctrine (devastator) - Heavies, RF, Grenades get AP-1 better"
Dont know what that means yet but pretty excited - Pew pew
SO i had my eyes checked and turns out I'm losing my near sight. I will prolly need bi-focals. which makes sense as I'm having difficulty painting details. I keep having to take off my glasses to see.
Here are some shots of Bone and flesh perturbing from the model and a purple tentacle.
I tried my best to blend the flesh to get the effect that it's growing from the armour.
I still have some highlighting to do on the flesh but my eyes were bugging me.
Let me know what you think
In November of 2022, my wife and I had a baby girl. Which meant everything hobby related was put on hold. No time for video games, DnD, Warhammer 40k nor time for painting.
This summer, almost two years later and I had a tiny bit of time a week. I started getting more into 3d printing. I'd sneak out to the garage at midnight and run a print... then either wake up to a bunch of minis or a fail.
Now that's it's cold I can't print anymore ? So I thought I'd pull out my paints...but they are all pretty dried out. Alot of hobby shops closed down so getting new paints was going to be a challenge.
I ended up finding a place downtown. It would ship for free on orders of $100 or more or a $20 shipping fee. I dint want to buy that much paint and $20 for shipping. No way. So I drove there. Took aboot 40 minutes and parked on the side street. 1 hour parking.
Anyhoo I bought some primers, a white, a black and some speed paints (they look like fun). Bought some new paint brushes. It total aboot $60 then walked back to the car...
TO FIND A PARKING TICKET
$135 bucks!!
So i need new glasses "1 hour parking" but in smaller print "on this side only from the 1st of the month to the 14th"
It was the 15th doh!! I shuda just paid the $20 shipping
I think I like the idea of chaos signs best, perhaps drawing some signs in photoshop on your photos before you put it on your model?
). So I looked around for something to air brush and found a few items that needed to be done for this list.
