Over the last while I have been painting on and off. I haven't been really posting but I have been lurking everyday (mostly at work). I watch my thread subscriptions and check out new threads. I get excited with others results and I will myself to paint. But as soon as I get home, it normally doesn't happen. I cook dinner, have a beer and the light is gone as so is the urge to paint.
When I do get some painting done, I love every minute of it. Yesterday I took pictures of what I've been working on.. its not much mind you and I'll spread out the pictures to make it easier to comment on
My first of three marines:
I dont think I have ever posted pictures of this guy. I liked the way he turned out. Unfortunatly I clear coated hime with a satin coat but he came out really shiny... I'll fix him eventually
I'll post another tomorrow. Please comment and C&C are welcome
I am right there w/ you regarding motivation. So many ideas, so many plans, so little actual time to spend. I'm actually starting to get annoyed at the responsibilities I have because they are cutting into my hobby time. I'm thinking about dumping my job, family, and friends. Then I'll have the hobby time I need.
More on topic- I really like the look you have going here, and especially like how you are keeping a distinctly Imperial look to them even when they are obviously no longer concerned w/ Codex Astartes. I've seen way too may RC projects that seem to miss the point that they are fairly recent Imperial renegades with , not a ancient Chaos Traitor Legion. I've seen too many cases where it's "one size fits all" BLLAARRGHH... Kay-0$s SPIKYblood GUTS tentacle thingies GRRAAAGGHH.... which is totally cool mind you, but it's not the Red Corsairs.
@Skalk Bloodaxe
I know what you mean, I think the same thing all the time.."How do I create more time" Its too bad things cost money or my job would be first to go. lol
As For the Red Corsairs..Exactly!
Anything they want they take. It makes it fun to Mix up Bits. I'm even thinking of adding a few GK Helms in there somewhere.
I really like the Allies Idea and it works perfectly with my fluff. New converts to the Lord of the Maelstrom.
@Nerfest
Thanks, thanks, I can fix it with a flat clear coat.
As for the Base Im going for some more cracked desert. maybe a tuff of dead grass.
I'm dying to try new base schemes but I got to keep it consistant
Good to see you back in the saddle Styro. Marine looks quite good. Face is well done as nerdy mentioned. I struggle on and off with motivation. I try to take breaks... some of them highly publicized. Mostly those fail miserably & I just end up painting because I'm in the habit. It's supposed to be a fun activity... do it when you feel like it. No one's keeping score.
Thanks Gits, i like that "no one keeping score" I think I'll sig that for a while
Next up Marine two of three. His arms are magentized. He can be a regular marine or he can be equiped with a power sword, power claws, or anthing else.... as soon as I paint those too
I really Like this one. I like how his head turned out. I tried to add a hint of blue to his eye and I made the other one blind.
mind you looking at it now ... How is he supposed to look down the sight?
Great job on his face! looks good and well done on having the patience to magnetize his arms, that taks some dedication :-) I really like the scheme you have going for them the gold accents are just enough to give you some impact but i feel the reds may need a little bit of encouragement? mind you, saying that I always have trouble when i photograph my red marines with the camera washing the colour out a lot! so I'm guessing it's actually fine? :-)
I paint the red with the Air Bursh using Zenithal Lighting:
Basecoat: Red gore
45 deg Highlight: 1:1 red gore to Blood red
15 deg Highlight: Blood Red
Wash: Orgyn Flesh
The blend is subtle and you cant see it in the photos. I think the problem is there is no contrast. Maybe I should use a darker base coat? maybe 2:1 red gore to Black?
As for magnetizing the arms. It is easy enough to do. the hard part is not losing the arms!!
Thanks i wish I had Mad skills then I'd paint a happy face on his eye
Marine three of three
You've seen him berfore but now he is based.
I have bought a bunch of wolf capes from Anvil Industry. I was thinking of adding them to all my Wolf Guard. i have pulled of his backpack to soo what it looks like on him. What do you think? If its a keeper then how should I paint it?
@Skalk Bloodaxe, I think I have an Idea now thanks, I'll give it a try and I'll let you know.
In the meant time I started two other marines:
WIP The red already sprayed and a gloss coat applied and a wash. I then blacked out most of the non red parts. Im using vallejo game color Black. It looks blacker then chaos Black and I like it better.
Looking good perhaps you could do one marine up with a darker base coat and show us a comparison? I like the blacker black on the new guys, who would have thought you could actually tell that it's blacker! heck you learn something new every day eh!
and as far as the wolf skin pelts goes, yeah man, keep 'em they look good! if you can get the fur parts to look like the tails you did earlier you're onto a winner they look brilliant! and the flat smooth main body of them would look cool if you made it appear like freshly skinned hide! I tried it on a small area of a wolf guard I did and it looked o.k i'll hunt a pic up for you..... found it!
Have you ever had the problem with your red undercoat when you paint black over it and no matter how many coats you put on the red still shows? I am always getting it and it is really bugging me. How do you paint on your blackover red?
I never really have that problem. i black out all areas taht are not red then i give it a satin glaze to prevent scratches (thats my major problem) then I paint black on the black parts and the highlight 2-3 coats up to 2:1 Hawk Terquoise and Black. then a wash of badab black. to dull it. after that no red goes thru.
I've used the Army Painter primers for several years now. They've always been good but the new formulations are better. Color selection is really nice too.
All you can do is try it Styro... see if it works with your scheme.
Ya I really like them. The model above was painted in Army Painter Dragon Red. Right noy I'm Playing with my Grey Knights with Army Pinter Plate Metal. I LOVE it! It saved alot of time and reduced the spackle and fuzzy problems i was getting
I've started going to Vallejo air brush primers... but while they have some colors... they aren't as fantasy/SciFi gaming friendly as the Army Painter colors are... so I still use them quite often.
No question, the Vallejo air primers are the best I've ever used... black, grey, white, dark red and dark green are all very good. If you need something more vibrant though, you need to go to Army Painter. I use their bone for my son's Nids and their yellow for my orks and sternguard.
So I love the Army painter primers! I went over all my magnetized marines with it. Then I went over it with the air brush and a wash I even had some time to black out some areas. But then I got bored and did some OSL work on my Grey Knights. Anywho here are some pics:
I dont think i posted the swords before? this was my frist attempts at doing the crystal power swords. I found the black too much so for my Grey Knights I decided not to use black. Oh well Trial and error right?!
I picked up these guys not too long ago and decided to add them to the Red Corsairs. You can never have enough HQs
Friends of mine always make fun of my headless army! my Ghost army lol
Thanks for the compliment, but it doesn't change the fact that your Power Sword is excellent and I wish I could do that. I paint mine metallic and say that they are 'off' right now when asked why they don't have some cool OSL effect.
So its about time for an update. Every now and then I get the chance to do a little painting. but I've been really lazy taking pictures. So I've decided that I will no longer set up the light box until I have a finished model. So I started taking a few shots with the camera phone. and I think I will continue to do this and maybe I will be able to up date more.
Recently, I have been playing around with paint fur. Here are the results.
And is that...? Oh my God yes it is! Guys with arms and heads glued on! It's a miracle! Finally my Orks can look them in the eye when they clash in epic battle!
I think your army could use a fresh injection of new models, like the ones from Dark Vengeance.. hint hint!
@More Dakka: Don't keep your hopes up I have a total of 120 Marines .... only 17 of them have heads! but most of them will have arms.. at least the red ones.
Headless Ghost army for the WIN!!... no?
lol I will get them off you someday! and then someday I will paint them lol
(Dont tell anyone but I've been thinking of going back to Chaos!? I would prolly have to re-write my OP again! Shhh)
Just for you More Dakka. I finally took pics of the marines you painted for me... now fully based and 100% complete.
And a few close ups of the bases ... and Marine
C&C are welcome. Let me know what you think of the bases. This time when I took the photos I used the Terra-clips as a background. let me know what you think of that as well...or should I stick to the White background I normaly use for completed models.
Bases are great and I'm a huge fan of 'action backgrounds'. IMO white backdrops are good for closeups of a single model, but group shots of models are better represented by a dynamic background.
I think I will do that Skalk, the back ground looks good on the group but takes away from the individual model.
More pics... I only had a little time so I just did some touches to the power swords. Im not sure I like the shine of the sword. i think I'll put add a layer of matte coat over it.
Gitsplitta wrote: Your painting is really advancing Styro... I'm very impressed.
Completely agree, and feel the same. If you go back and look at your older work you'll see the improvement. I have to do that w/ my own work occasionally to remind myself to stop whining about how my current models look. I'll never be a Golden Daemon contender but I know I've improved significantly since I first joined Dakka.
The runes on that sword are so awesome! That's really great work.
Thanks for the kind words guys. I feel Im still improving, im constantly trying new things., But I have to credit Dakka for the many threads that inspire me. I have 30 subscribed threads that I look for everyday. But my top 5 would be:
I tried a different approach to painting heads. Im trying for more of a pale look. I used tallern flesh and mixed SW grey in for highlights. I also tried to do stubble. It's my first attempt and i think i just need more practice.
let me know what you think and which you like best? any links to good tutorials on faces and hair would be great.
I've been out of painting for quite a few months now but reading this thread and watching you build Huron's finest has made me want to paint my Red Corsairs again. So thank you for re-igniting my 40k spirit.
So, I'm Moved in... Still alot of unpacking to do.
Here's Shots of the house with the stang in the drivway!
I put my desk in the garage with the compressor and air brush. I need a new desk for the game room i have in the basement for the rest of my painting. This room has no exhaust or windows so no air brushing here. Right now that room is the storage room for all the boxes.
Both. His ego deserves it. He has that badass ride and awesome digs as well? The only thing missing from that pic is his hottie trophy wife. And a new Land Raider kit.
As most of you who follow my thread know that I'm on a bit of a hiatus due to the recient move. I haven't stopped lurking tho, I'm always reading at work.
Anywho, I'm Slowly unpacking and I have a clean slate for a games/painting room. I would love to hear your Ideas.
My orginal desk is now in the garage where I'll be doing the Air brushing (This room has no windows or any ventilation). I have no Idea where to start and I dont what to clutter the room either. I'd like it effecient as well. When I have the layout and some money i'll renovate the room to add an exhaust or window.
I have no work table, no storage units, nothing. I want to have the greatest gaming/painting of ALL TIMES!!
Room dimensions are 13'-11" X 10'7".
So I Guess what Im asking is; what do you have in your painting station? What would you want if you had the space? or any Ideas?
Post phots of your stations or links to products or even PM me if you dont want to post it here.
Since this pic I have added another light, and I only use full-spectrum light bulbs. . I cannot emphasize how very important good lighting is. It is less strain on your eyes, allows you to see colors and detail more clearly, less strain on your eyes, helps you stay organized, and it's less strain on your eyes.
Thanks Skalk, I saw this pic on ur blog and I love it. soo organized. I was really hoping you would chime in.
Lights: what brand are your desk lamps? are they magnified?
i see alot walmart storage units. I picked up one. what are you using to store your paints?
Do you have a problem with dust on the shelves?
and how do I got those posters?
Automatically Appended Next Post: So last night I took the desk out of the garage and put it down stairs. I adjusted the lights in the room to face the desk. and I sat down and did some painting... unfortunately for my Red Corsairs followers I only painted some GK stuff.
My desk has changed a lot since that pic, I only shared it becasue it was the most 'recent' I had.
Lights- I used Verilux everything because my wife works there. I really like them but they have propriety bulbs and the lamps are expen$ive. You can use any generic lamp that you can use daylight or natural spectrum bulbs in.
The side lamps look like this:
The (new and not showing in my current pic) center lamp is this:
The Walmart bins I use for miniature and large bitz storage. My paints (center of photo) are from a hardware store. The bins are larger and I keep all my paint in those. Vallejo paints need a taller bin to fit.
Dust is a problem in my house in general. I live in a 193 year old farmhouse (seriously. It was built in 1820) and right next to a main road that is the only conduit between the 2 'major' towns. My solution is to dust / wipe down frequently. I'm lazy and would rather model with my spare time so I try to incorporate it into my general housecleaning but invariably by the time I get to my game room I get distracted by the I-beam on a project I'm working on and another week goes by without any attention to keeping the room up.
Those posters may be on eBay from time to time, but they are old. Ooollllldddddd. I've been doing this a long time.
We used to live in a house that old too. I Think it was 1820's as well. Unfortunetly we had a Grease fire. Then we moved to the city. I loved that house.
So I picked up this badboy at Curry's It really makes a difference.
I'd like to replace the light bulbs in the room itself. I'm looking at LED but SOO pricey.
I have one of those Walmart storage bin on wheels. I mostly have my sprues and casting stuff in there. Right now My paints are all over the place. I need to take care of that. I'll Check out Crappy Tire this weekend to see what I can find.
I have no ventilation or windows in this room. I really want the airbrush here. I need some kind of exhaust.
Automatically Appended Next Post: How do I get that wallpaper?
Thanks Theophony I think I like the blue too. It makes the red pop. I started going through your blog only on page 7 and loving it. I cant wait to catch up and see the progress.
Moar tests
Single light source from aboveusing the white light from the magnifying lamp:
It gives it a dramatic feel about it, but it is too dark. and gives it a bluish tint
Two light sources left and right with the soft light lamp that came with the kit:
Three light sources top, left and right with all the lamps:
This one might be too bright.
So far I like the 2 lights but I think I want to change the bulbs to daylight bulbs
Loving the cowboy hat, don't know how I missed it before. Good stuff. I think the blue works because of the power weapons. Kind of like a blue light from the weapon lighting the background.
ha ha no problem. I think you stated that before when I actually worked on them. I'm just trying to master the photos. Where did you get your backgrounds? What did you print them on? Did you print them yourself or goto a printing center?
New or old Doctor Who? While waiting for the newstuff to arive I started Watching from season one from 1963. 26 seasons to go through. Im now on the 4th doctor. I miss some characters like Sara Jane smith and Jamie. The new stuff finally mentions that he had a grandaughter. Briefly mind you.
You always remember your first doctor.
Jelly babies (I ended up getting some jellybabies for my birthday)
Alot of the first, second and third season stuff was lost. I can't wait until they finish animating them. The first death and regeneration of the doctor is lost.
Mine is tennant, baker and Smith. Mind you I don't remember 5th-8th doctors. I enjoyed Eccleston but it was too short. I love the old black and white stuff. I had no Idea that Ice warriors were green until the colour ep. lol.
Newer ep. stuff. if your not upto date do not click.
Spoiler:
I was really sitting at the edge of my seat when they brought back the Ice Warriors. I had no Idea!!
As for the red, I dont get it either. I can't see the shade or the washes. I spray black from below, Scab red mid and Blood Red top. I then coat in gloss, then give it a wash. When I'm done I give it a satin coat.
If you look at the chest and the legs of this picture you can see the shade. It looks like shadow from light source above.
Maybe I have to change the way I do it. I have sprayed 10 of these, Once I get the AB up and running again I'll add more shadow. I guess Im trying to get it to look real I should be trying to get it to look surreal, I noticed that most of the great paint jobs look cartoony with extreme contrast and they look amazing
Samething goes for my black it not extreme enough. Even my Grey Knights. I spray my silver with a tint of blue, just a slight tint. but in photos it is un-noticable. But then you look at Maxlvlpainting Grey knights and he uses alot of blue and it looks amazing
Thanks for the C&C Gits, I have been thinking about this for a while now.
Automatically Appended Next Post: It could even be all the clear coats I add
Automatically Appended Next Post: @Theophony, thanks for the helping choose the background, lol
So, I'm getting a nice groove going. Really liking my painting/gaming room. I actually like being there. My last painting area was in the living room of a rental apt. It was cluttered and had no space. so Im loving this.
I started the details on this guy:
Still have the gold to do and fix the belt buckle I didn't notice until seeing the photos.
I was thinking of making this guys hair (Head No.2) Greyish white to somewhat match the pelt. Let me know what you think?
Believe it not I fought the tendency towards extreme dynamics in painting for a long while... but I finally gave up and succombed. No surprise, my painting suddendly started getting more attention and accolades. Very good realistic paint jobs can be done (see WWII minis), but it takes a very delicate touch. One unfortunately, that I currently lack.
Automatically Appended Next Post: I like the grey hair idea to match the pelt.. nice way to pull the figure together. Great job on the chest scroll by-the-way.
Mine are actually pretty simple. I use a bone under-layer, followed by white highlights on the upcurled areas and edges. Finally a slightly dilute sepia wash. That's it really. If I want to be really fancy I'll go back and do some very light edge highlighting in a few areas.
ahhh, I've been doing brown, then bone, Devlin Mud wash, Bone highlights and it never looked good, so i started new things. I kinda want maybe a flesh look. But I really like your so I'll get it a try.
Thanks
Now Where do I start making my guys look cartoony?
Well, you don't have to make them cartoony... just more dynamic. You have an airbrush at your disposal yes? In simple terms, you just start much darker and end much lighter. The trick is not to lose the middle shades in the process.
Yes, that too. You can be very discreet about where you do the edge highlighting. If you really focus on just the upper lines that would be catching and distributing light, it's much less artificial.
Left is the original that I cut out of plasticard years ago. The right is the resin copy.
The cracle in the center it from the resin piece. After I made it, I put the symbol on the hatch and left it for some time. There was some kind of goo on the back of the cast symbol and it warped The paint.
Should I give this guy a helmet? Or a SW head? In the last photo I painted an "X" on the backpack icon. I tried to make it looked slapped on, But I think it just looks like a messy bad paint job. Should I do The same for the icon on the arm? Or leave it as is? Let me know what you think.
You know... a small thing... but I find it's very helpful when getting advice on a figure to paint the base first. Some basic color that isn't the same as the dominant colors in your figure. It takes two seconds but can really help a reader focus on the figure rather than getting distracted by the variety of colors on the base.
I think the reason it looks like a bad paint job is because you stayed inside the lines, but the lines are shaky. Extend the x outside the box and it would look more like desecration if it covers more than just the inside of the box. It looks to reverently done to be desecration. You could go with a regular helmetless head if the chapter that converted aren't a sw descendent. It would give more variety to he crowd.
Awesome work Styro! the sword and face are brilliant! you nailed the technique for the power weapon, and your face work is really coming along nicely! as usual looking forward to more mosels!
Thanks for the comment guys. I think I'll fix the 'X' I really like Theophony's Idea it should go outside the lines. Should i also do the "X" on the shoulder?
@ Nerdfest09, thanks I find the power swords to be very simple, as for the faces I just keep practicing, Once I do as many heads as you I think i will have mastered it lol.
So I think I am winding down, I picked this guy up and all I did was highlight the black and the red.
I don't think you should do a red 'X' on the shoulder because it is already red. If the marine was from a chapter with the colour scheme unchanged then I think a red 'X' would be good.
I'm leaving it blacked out like the chest piece. They kept the icon but blacked it out as a mocking jester. But should I put the red "x" over it? Someone asked why I have all the Imperial Icongraphy. I figure having it blacked out was good enough.
I started to re-read into it for fear that I might be losing my grasp on the Red Corsair's Fluff. On http://warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Red_Corsairs it states: "Huron Blackheart's dreaded warband of Chaos Space Marines known as the Red Corsairs were named after the blood-red colour they used to obliterate their old Imperial heraldry and symbols. The artifice pleased Huron greatly, and all of the renegade Space Marines who have since joined him have taken these colours as their own to show their new allegiance. They are also known to incorporate the colour black as well as having brass trim on their Power Armour. Otherwise most renegade Astartes that join the Red Corsairs usually obliterate or deface all of their former Imperial icongraphy by hastily painting over them with red saltires (a diagonal cross 'X')."
But then again I dont beilieve in the Whole corrupted into chaos propaganda. I believe that to be Lies of the imperium.
I think blacked out is fine. Might be fun to add one or two new recruits that are still in their chapter colors. Those... you could mark out with an X.
Thanks guys, I thought so too. I plan on making new recruits and make a game out of it. "Choose the fallen chapter". It will definitely mix it up a bit and I can paint new things.
So I sat at my painting desk and stared at my RCs for a few hours. I didn't really have much motivation.
So I picked up and older Chaos RC Model and added some OSL eyes and painted a Meltagun.
I'm losing movation to paint again. So I decided to take some photos of my squad units. First up is my Chaos squad. I love these guys alot of character, I just wih I painted them better. They are alos difficult to transport, most of them dont fit in the foam trays...Too many spikes.
These guys are Recruits from the Malestrom or Marines Created from Geneseed that got currupted. He uses them to put fear in his enemies. They are erratic and unpredictable. They are not given the best weapons or armour. They accuire most of there gear from the dead. These units are sent up to front lines, for Huron cares not for their taint. He uses them and they are effective. A Sargent is chosen to lead them with pure Marine geneseed. Either stolen or a renegade. He will kill any that disobey and since they do not survive long, mutany is unheard of. Over time these Sergents are watched and when they show signs of taint they are stripped of their armour and weapons and torn apart by Huron's pets. Those that survive this onslaught, are placed in a sarcophagus of a Dreadnaught. This does not happen often and the Red Corsairs do not have many Dreadnaughts.
9 Grey Hunters - 1 melta 1 Wolf Guard - Powerfist, Combi-Melta I usually field them in a Rhino and try to get into 24" range. But if i was to foot slog them I'd add another Meltagun GH and put the WG in Terminator Armour, that goes for the other GH units I field.
More to come, Next up is my Renegade Marine unit. I need to write it up
Nice work, but was hoping you went w/ a Space Wolves head. Very fluffy.
Also, it looked pretty cool w/o the head, just the skull on the backpack. But since the are renegades instead of some weird twisty CSM mutation guys it would not have fit in very well.
Still a cool photo though.
Great work all around. Always enjoy seeing an update.
Skalk Bloodaxe wrote: Nice work, but was hoping you went w/ a Space Wolves head. Very fluffy.
LOL those are 2 different marines. He still doesn't have a head. These are marines I painted 5-6 years ago.
@Mr. Awesome, thanks
Here is my Marine Squad. These were painted by More Dakka.
Huron has Increased his army since Badab. They are made up of renegade marines converted to his cause or Marines created from stolen Geneseed. These marines are pure with no taint. They are loyal to Huron and make up the bulk of his force. These Marines are trained as if they were Astral Claws. They are Space Marines with the exception that Huron has given them the truth.
"The Wolf of Fenris was a Space Marine Strike Cruiser of the Space Wolves Chapter that was captured by the Red Corsairs at the Battle of Parenxes, sometime after the Badab War.
Realizing that they needed ships to carry out their raids, Huron Blackheart, Master of the Red Corsairs, ordered an attack on a Space Marine patrol group of the Space Wolves and Flame Hawks Chapters near the world of Parenxes. In a surprise attack near the Parenxes star, Huron's forces crippled the Wolf of Fenris and damaged several other vessels (though all save the Wolf were allowed to escape). Using boarding torpedoes, the Red Corsairs first took control of the engine room so that the Space Wolves could not self-destruct, then a second wave was sent into the cargo bays. The third wave, led by Blackheart himself, entered at a point fifty meters from the command deck. Huron stormed the bridge and tore apart the ship's captain, Gnyrll Bluetooth, with the huge weapon that served as his right arm.
As the Red Corsairs' victory became inevitable, several Space Wolves turned on their fellows and threw themselves at the mercy of Blackheart. They renounced their pledges to their Chapter, Primarch and Emperor, and swore allegiance to Huron. As reward for their allegiance, Huron granted them command of the Wolf of Fenris, which is now part of the Red Corsairs' fleet."
The best of the Best. Made up of the Remaining Astral Claws. With the exception of a few of Huron's Wolves that made it into the Retinue. This Power unit recieved alot of their gear from the Wolf of Fenris and their pick of gear from Raids and conquests.
I'm still loving that Huron model. But as you say that the Red Corsairs aren't dedicated to the Chaos Gods but are more of a rogue SM chapter, have you though about rebasing Huron because although the green stuff chaos icon looks kick-ass do you think it fits into the Red Corsairs fluff? I'm not trying to be negative in anyway it's just that I'm curious on your thoughts for his base.
Crikey! seeing the models displayed like that is really a good presentation! shows how cohesive they all look together, they all look fan-bloody-tastic!
Nice to see you contributing to the blog Nerdy. Styro's been hammering away at these guys for a couple of years now with far too little attention. Good to have you on board.
Cheers Mate .... Gappy... Fosters ....That's Not a Knife... (Thats all the Australian I know)
Yup Gits has been keeping me going, since I started this WIP blog. I even think it was his Idea to start one.
But Nerd Is Keeping my Grey Knights alive (I will get back to them soon as I get a new Airbrush)
I can't forget Mr.Awesome. I think he got tired of waiting for me to post something on my RC Showcase Thread...I have to finish a model first lol. well if I Start Basing then I shoud have 5 or 6 finished lol.
@ Mr. Awesome, I was hoping no one would say anything about the Chaos Star... Well he is covered in them lol. The critisim is welcome tho. It's my continuity error. I say they are not Chaos and I throw the Undivided Symbols everywhere... Maybe It's a tactic? It would explain why the Imperium believes they are Chaos
I dont plan on changing it. But I do want to buy the FW one. I understand it wont fit.. But its a nice sculpt.
No I haven't painted the Hamadrya, I don't think I can find him.
Thanks for all the comments guys. I'm getting really excited about finishing a 1500pt list..In my lifetime.
I picked it up at the post office last night. I was hoping to play with it but it's not compatible with my Paasche hose. Anyone know if it's compatible with another brand, Iwatta, or badger?
The effect on your Power Weapons is amazing. I've seen similar-looking work from other people, yours it the best I've seen so far (and I've seen a lot).
Thanks Skalk, If My marines weren't in red armour they would be blushing.
I got the hose for the air brush. but I had to unscrew the quick disconnect to attach it. I started playing with it and painted a marine. I added deeper shadows and highlights.
Bad news.. I had the AB in the holder and my leg cought the hose.. which pulled the air brush off the holder... the AB landed right on the needle and tip.
My new AB is done.. Im soo pissed! I need to order a new needle and tip.
So I kinda managed to straighten the needle. I tried many things but the tip was still bent a little. Then I got an idea...I put the needle between two exacto knife handles (metal ones) and added pressure while I twisted the needle out. kinda like a lathe. It worked out really well.
I managed to paint some more marines... no pics yet.
I'd recommend using a dark red primer if you can get your hands on one. It'll blend much more nicely up through the brighter reds. Vallejo makes a very nice dark red airbrush primer.
Thanks Gits, the problem is the camera. In RL the models have smooth shade, from almost black to Red gore to bright blood red. I dont know what Im doing wrong but the camera makes it flat. It kinda frustrating
Great stuff as always, but I had to comment specifically about the 'stubble' effect you have on the Marines w/ the shaved heads. It is so perfect and there's no question exactly what it is when you see it.
I used these colours and I used tape in this video, instead of the card in the other.
I covered it in a gloss coat. Then I painted the runes white and wiped the excess with my finger so that only the grooves had paint. The gloss coat makes the sword smooth so the paint doesn't stick except for the rune grooves. then i covered in a matt coat to remove the shine.
Does this mean we're having our first modeling tiff?
The tuts on Power Swords was very well done and informative. I am not going to try it anytime soon, but the technique seems to be within my skill range and at some point I want to paint some Power Weapons a different color than Bolt Gun Metal.
The weathering / wear on the hatch looks great, especially since it is painting on instead of worn / chipped off. I usually try chipping things w/ a knife or scrape them w/ a brass bristle brush. Good job.
Sorry Dee, I know nothing about that Airbrush. I looked it up and seems to be the whole package for a great price. But I can't seem to find much else on it.
Before you bent the needle what did you think about it?
I really like the weathering effects you did.
I used the same tutorial a while back a I wasn't pleased with my free handing skills at all so know I just sponge it on is exact color style as what you have done.
Very nice work, keep it up!
So over the weekend (thanksgiving) I had plenty of time to paint...but I didnt do much. Here is my Rhino with battle damage:
So far i'm pretty happy with the results. I need to chip the black areas. I've also been thinking that this need more black areas. Ignore the green I'll be making that black. Maybe the top raised area around the storm bolter?
Graaaaaaahhhhhh! I NEED to learn that chipping method it just looks so damn good! you've done a great job with it Styro, I'm as green with envy as the turret :-)
Thanks guys... Wow 4 responses in one day... I think thats my record.
@Moltar and Gits I think I might do both. the window panel and the area under the hatch @Nerd I find it easier then using sponge or the lighter underline method. Give it a go. BuyPainted tutorial is pretty straight forward. I love it when he says "chip'd paint" @Dr.H thanks for lurking, and chiming in. Its good to know that people are out there. As for the placement I just figure thats where most of the traffic is. They say less is more but It's hard to stop some times.
Hoping to get the black done tonight, I'll mask everything off and give it a spray
So I did it. I masked it off. It was a pain to do. The masking tape I had was not sticky at all and wouldn't stay on. so I used liquid mask and the tape to make sure. I didn't get any overspray but the liquid mask did tear up some of the new paint. which i had to touch up. enought words .. Photos!!
I need to give it a wash to dull down the highlight and add depth on the black. I haven't done the top hatch with the storm bolter, but I did leave the other red to get the Idea. Im not sure if more black is needed? Let me know what you think? Does it look more Red Corsairs? I think more bronze is need or more symbols?
I agree w/ Gits and Moltar. The black completes the Rhino. There are a lot of them out there that seem interchangeable between different Chapters / Legions. These definitely belong to the Red Corsairs.
Thanks guys I think I'm almost finished. I will add some chipped paint to the black.
Next up will be the storm bolter turret.
And I also wouldn't mind a few ideas on Decals. The Red Corsairs were once Astral Claws. So they should still have order amongst Chaos. Besides chapter decals, what decals should I add? Numbers? Symbols? (Edit: I think I may have done this backwards.. I should have done the decals first then the weathering... oops)
So without guidence I kinda went Decal crazy. I added the "IV" over the right track in the front(i like). I added a few chaos stars (don't like) and some skulls (hate)
I have no pics but I am going to remove the decals when I get home anyway. I will leave the "IV"
Instead of decals I think I'll go with bits. I'll tac them on and take photos for advice.
I think that the third pic is how I'm going to do my rhino now. The chains look good, but I really like the lowered headlights and front facing smoke launchers. I have to figure out the best way to do that now. ...But I agree about the chains. I like them up top, as in the third pic, and along the front side in the DA pic. I'm not a fan of them covering the door, preventing it from opening.
I removed most of the stupid decals that I overdid. This is whats left.
I think I might get rid of the wolf paw on top. I was thinking of Huron's Hounds. I don't think it works. I want for the side door the black asrtal claw with no Chaos star.
Nice work dude.
The weathering work that you did is awesome. Love the choice of an orange-yellow to highlight the edge of the scratches. Me personally, i dont really like chains on my models or spikes. If anything i would go for the third pic from the top.
I like the cables, but would prefer them added if you add the previously posted hooks. Chains are not bad either. I'm not a fan of the skulls just sitting there. They would probably shake around and fall off an actual tank.
@Moltar and Gitz, Thanks. I think thats exactly what I'm gonna do, but I have put it aside for now.
@ Skalk, A dozen of people would be awesome, but I'm content with only 1/4 of a dozen building my army for me.
I have been reading this blog and I love his fluff.
"The Tyrant Rises" He created a squad, each marine has a backstory. Some of them died. The ones that lived, not all were tainted by chaos as the imperium wants you to believe. Most of them believed in their cause, they believe in Huron, as I do. Hail Huron, The Blood Reaver!!
side note: It would be cool to make the RC versions of His guys.
...
I also found this to be an interesting read.
The Tyrant's Strength It's fluff discussion on 'how large are the Red Corsairs?'
...
I've been working on my Long fangs. 15 MLs. I finished spraying the rest of them. I gave them all a gloss coat. I 've been experimenting on washes. I tried oil washes, but i think I'm using the wrong thinner. because it is not working out and the oil is seperating. So I went back to GW washes.
Now I'm blacking out the non red areas. It's a process that I wish someone else would do for me. I don't think I will highlight these guys. at least not for a while. I just like them not grey. I'd like to start playing again. and it would be nice to have a army with paint and heads.
I can send you the fluff from the 2nd Ed Chaos Codex. It is the first place I remember seeing anything about the RC. If I remember correctly there was no mention of Chaos per se, just that they rebelled. I really like the story of the Space Wolves ship they captured and the Space Wolves that turned from the False Emperor and embraced freedom for the first time in their lives.
Yup thats the stuff I read when I first started. Mind you that was after I bought the Chaos battleforce. Since then I have changed from Chaos to Marine to now Space wolves. but the fluff's changing. IA9 and 10 saw to that. Hell Astral claws are silver and blue now?!
A mix of everything is kinda making sense to me. Chaos warbands in the maelstrom, not wiped out by the RCs would swear loyalty. Most Renegade SM would join the RCs. Cultists, and Renegade Guard. Then you have Geneseed creation of new RCs. All give tributes to the RCs
Huron had 3500 Astral Claws before almost being wiped out. Huron fled Badab with less than 200 Astral Claws.
980999.M41, "Rumours report Huron Blackheart has grown his group of renegades as large as the Space Marine Legions of old."
So the discussion is how many is an old SM legion? 90,000 to 170,000... So a mix makes sense. Mind you I draw the line on mutations, Spawns, giant creatures, Daemon Princes, Oblitorators and Hell chickens! Huron's main force would be pure. He would use the rest like pawns for his advantage. I believe He would also play the part of chaos to feed into the reputation as Tyrant and Blackheart!
IA9 and IA10 allows you to use either C:SM, C:CSM, C:IG with limitations. Now that 6th has allies I believe that they are going to change this soon.
So technically I have 3 armies. C:SM, C:CSM and C:SW and all of them Red Corsairs. (I would love to buy some Imperial Guard for 4 armies)
For now I'd like to finish 1500-2000pts of Huron's Wolves.
I can see Huron playing up the Chaos thing for the shock and terror value, but I still don't see him using any true Chaos (except maybe Cultists as a meat shield or troublesome distraction). I know the fluff changes on a GW whim but I always stick with the beginning of things and refuse to let someone rewrite history simply because some hack author decides to rewrite history.
I used to run 2nd Ed Red Corsairs from time to time and most of my force was made up of regular Space Marines that I had picked up here and there. Even painted a few myself. I had a red X on their left pauldrons. I used a spot of gel superglue so I could pop them off and replace the original pauldron in case I ever wanted to run a regular army, but of course that never happened because I hate the Imperium.
I converted my own Huron model since GW didn't release one for 15 (?) years after the fact. I didn't completely finish the paintjob but it was convincing enough, and I think the conversion captured the spirit of Huron Blackheart:
Spoiler:
Regardless of which direction you go in, this is an amazing project and the skill you display here is undeniable. Looking forward to further updates, I'm enjoying the progress here.
Do you have any more pictures of your old Corsairs? I'd love to see them. I think I only seen your terrain stuff
So how long have you been in the hobby? 15 years before the huron model? I've only been at this for 4-5 years.
I think I will go for a mix, mosty so I can use the different codex. I have two Dark Vengence kits (the Chaos stuff). I think after I finish my SW list I'll work on a chaos list, then a marine list!
I'll dig some out, but they are buried in a pile of rubble I made after looking for something else so it might be a while. They aren't a big deal though, my individual model skills are tabletop adequate (they look good at 3 ft).
edit- I started painting D&D models in early 80's and have been gaming since 1990, but I took a break from May '99 to Nov '09. I've been hard core modeling since I started up again. I'm more of a modeler than a player, but I do enjoy the whole 'drink beer roll dice kill stuff' games I host at my place. FLGS games not so much.
I've been D&Ding since 2nd Ed. Started DMing for 3rd Ed. Around '07 my players could no longer commit and it was getting tough to DM. So I tried Warhammer in '09. It a fast pick up game. We played 4th ed. until 5th came out then my friends stop playing anthing all together. Then I found this forum and met alot of players and had many games at FLGS. Then 6th came out and I haven't played since. Been meaning to but life gets in the way. So now I mostly stick to painting.
It was a long process. The first part was research. Spent the previous week googling decals. I already knew about BoLS decal sheet printout for the Red Corsairs, but there must be someone selling actuall decals of the RCs. No luck! Okay so I'll do them myself. More searchy, tons of info online, but alot of horror stories too.
I end up sending and email to a local hobby shop that I go to for things I cant find. She gave me some info but decals wasn't their strong suit, but they had a few customers that were and she would make contact for me.
At this point I remember I dont have a printer. I havent used one in years and after the move, I deep sixed ours. They sell decal paper for both inkjet and Laser printers. So I figure I can just go to staples or if I have to I'll do it at work. So I know I need Laser paper.
I receive an email from the Hoppy shop that they will be at a plastic model contest and her customers should be there and could help me. So I went. She introduced me to a few peoplw and I got all the info I needed. Brand, type, technique etc. Turns out inkjet has better quality but the ink tends to run. You also want your image to be a made with vector graphics ==>Wiki link on Vector Graphics. Adobe products use it. BoLS decal sheet is in PDF, Win!.
Next thing you want to know is White background or clear. Almost all printers don't print white. They are designed to print on white paper. So if you use colour or any shade of grey then you need to use white paper. Grey for example uses the white background of the paper to make the black look lighter. The black becomes translucent. So if you use clear, the colour of the model WILL show through! But with white you have to cut the decal out very close to the edge and you will still get a white out line. For me the design is solid black. So clear is perfect for me.
Therefor I bought this: 3 sheets cost me $10. I could have gone online for cheaper.
Printing time. Oh ya I dont have one. I eventually went to Staples and they told me to take a hike! They refuse to use outside paper for liability reasons. Talking with my new friend and it turns out laser printers run hot and can melt the decal paper onto the heads. So you want to run it through the laser after its been off for a while. Therefore I snuck into work a few hours early to do it. Unfortunetly other employees were there too. You have to do one sheet at a time and I didn't want to leave the sheet at the printer while I run back to my desk. Just incase some one else prints on my paper.
Brainstorm!!
I sent a test print to regular paper. It looks perfect. I take the print, put the sheet of decal paper in the printer.. and I photocopy the test page. Voila!!
I run back to my desk and hide to to let it dry. Took it home and gave it quick coat of clear gloss after it dried I gave it a second full coat. it was unessary but I gave it a third coat of satin clear coat. I waited for that to dry and yesterday I tested on that marine.
Success!!
Automatically Appended Next Post: I forgot. Here is where I got the decal design at BoLS
Wow. Decal is excellent and the way you did it feels like the results are attainable for me. Thanks for sharing the process as well as the results. I'm going to tuck that one away and keep it for later.
I've used the scythes of the emperor decals from BOLS, and they look great as well. Just need to apply them. Gits if you don't want to mess with printing them out, there's a guy on eBay that will do it for you. He printed mine for me .
Styrofoam04 wrote: @ Skalk, Good get on it then and post your results or link them here.
In due time. I have a bit of a distraction going on right now. Once that is over I'm going to get back to work on some larger pieces. I have great plans for a refinery. Or a swamp sump. Or a road system. Or a Trading Post.
Thanks, It's pretty simple to do. I posted a video of the tutorial I found on page 18.
As for update I sorry to report It will be on hold until after the holidays. I had to pack my stuff in 3 weeks ago to make space. I might get my painting room back mid January.
My new years resolution is to finally play a real game of 6th ed. I hoping to get at least one game a month again. I cant wait to get back in
Over the holidays, I played a game with my nephew. I fogot alot and kept making mistakes. My nephew seemed disintrested in the game. Or attention span of kids nowadays completely gone. During my turns he would turn on his 3DS and play or run around the basement or roll on the floor. He's 11?!
I used Space Wolves He had Chaos. I found it hard to kill 2 defilers? normally they drop in the first 2 turns. I was wiping him out near th end and he was getting more discouraged. So I kinda through the game. I had 8 points, he had 4. I told him all he needs was to recapture the relic to win. I had the relic in a rhino and I could have kept it moving. but instead I pulled them out and let him assault them. the last turn he wiped out the unit and captured the relic for the win. He said he had fun and liked it. But I found it difficult to keep him focused.
i hope to be ready by the end of the month and get a game in.
Happens. Kids that age are often (now always) really focused on winning. When I play my kids, I usually give them a significant point handicap so I can really play, but the odds are good that they will ultimately prevail. It's good practice to play vs. armies that out point you... teaches you to be creative in the face of long odds.
it was funny, for xmas he got the board game "Risk". I asked him if he ever played it before. He responded " Yup, I played it on the computer. I like it. But i dont like the manual game!" I nearly died laughing. He likes the video game but hates the board game because you have to play it manually. Reminded me of back to the furture 2
Thanks for the tutorial, I'm looking to make up some for my space wolves. FW do one with all the companies on but you only get 25 per company and I have close to 200 models that need doing. Looking forward to see them used
So holidays are over and I cleaned up my painting room a little and I have enough space to paint and painting I did! I got a few marines painted to about 90% in 2 days. If I can keep this up I could finish my army in a month or two . Kidding aside it would be nice to get in a game soon and I like to have a painted army. or at least an army that has arms and heads.
Bring on the pics!! (used my camera phone, Sorry)
My first mostly finished Missle Launcher only 14 to go
Grey Hunter marine. Its been a while since I've painted helmets. I like the glow of the ML over this one. Trial and error
And we got here a Wolf Guard. and another attempt at blond hair. I painted this face about 2 years ago and hated it. but the hair kinda brought it together.
Thanks gits. I still cant see the air brush shading of the red in any of these pictures. The red still looks flat. oh well
not sure what to do about that. I gave them an extreme edge highlighting and even in some areas that is hidden
Might be the angle of the photo. I notice that my most obvious transition is dead-on from the side... yet I hardly ever take pictures from that angle. How do they look in-person?
If you look closely you can see the transitions. But only if you really look, its just really smooth and and looks like the light is top down
The bottom of the shoulder pad The shadow is not real, but painted. The shadow is air brushed Black/red. The light source is coming from behind the camera. You can see a hot spot on the helmet and elbow. The mid colour is Blood Red/red gore mix and the top hightlight is pure blood red. you cant see that transition at all. Then I line highlighted it with 3:1:1 Firey Orange:Blood Red:Skull White and it really pops out and cartooney. Everything else gives the illusion that they light is top down... so i guess I did a great job but no one can see it lol
All you see is the flat red. I'll take a pic upside down
If you can make the gradient so "invisible" that it all looks like natural light effets... you can pretty much teach a class on the technique. Nicely done Styro.
OK, so you have a good gradient, it's just burried down below the areas that are visible when the model is sitting flat. There is a rather simple solution... increase the angle at which the lighter colors are sprayed so the gradient is visible further up the model.
Those are fantastic Styro!
I'm also loving the decals of the RC fist, I know from experience it is a real pain to paint on shoulder pads but you've added something simple and it makes them look so more unified.
Keep up the good work!