Hi there. I've been pretty busy lately. Life has been filled with travelling, falls, bereavements and sleepless nights. I therefore haven't picked up a brush in months despite wanting to. That said I have been picking up power tools which as every terrain builder will tell you is essential in making the thing you ultimately will paint to look pretty
I haven't really said so far, but the project is a mix-match of various things. My son is a huge Thomas the Tank Engine fan so Santa is bringing a Hornby OO gauge Thomas, Annie and Clarabel set for Christmas. I also admit that the board was clearly partly for me because this year instead of forking out £30 on the Lego Star Wars advent and not really get anything from it I've invest the money in to
this. So I'm adding in Lego track too for family fun having found all of my old track from when I was little. But better than that is that this will double up as a hilly terrain board for wargames and one day I may come up with a
40K imperial train modification for a Lego/OO gauge train. But it gets better (in theory) in that I will be able to place an
MDF sheet over the top to use this for more general wargaming.
And so the process continues. These were emails to my father who is a veteran model train hobbyist to make sure I was on the right track but they also work as a process blog.
27th October 2016
I used the 2" x 1" for the frame vertically making it more rigid. This would also allow me to make the scenery more interesting by going lower than the base board into the frame area.
18th November 2016
With the frame already done, the next steps were completed.
Step 1 - Cut and fixed
MDF board to the frame
Step 2 - Laid out the Lego track and got the trains out
Step 3 - Using a track rubber I bought I got the contacts sorted and checked they worked which they did, then I added some height to proceedings
19th November 2016
Was not a good night. I was up until 1am desperately trying to get the mismatch of OO train track to go together in to something interesting and just couldn't do it. Very angry. Wife was not impressed either, rightly so. Especially because I worked out the solution in 15mins the following morning. I'll never learn....
The Lego track plan was re-arranged to make it simpler for the children and here it is suspended on the "hillwork" showing how it will sit suspended over the OO gauge track:
At this stage the OO track siding is planned to be Brendam dock from Sodor.
There will be a tunnel just prior to the dock on the siding track and a corresponding tunnel as the OO curves at the short near end just next to this.
There will be raised hills following the line of the Lego track with the OO track being in a valley where the diamond crossing is.
The Lego straight on the far short end will have a Lego station on.
The crossing of Lego track over OO track in the top right will be a bridge of Lego track going over OO track. I know it's a bit questionable having a curved bridge like that but needs must - it's surprising how restrictive each system is. The original idea was to have a Micro Scalextric set in too as the road of the layout, but it just would have been horribly busy.
The area in the bottom right of the photo above, which is bordered by Lego curves on the left, the "dock siding" straight below and the OO curves to the right will be water with brickwork retaining walls on the right and by the track and then a cliff on the left
20th November 2016
I had a moment of confusion when I started thinking about the Christmas train not coming with a motor. I knew it was the case but hadn't really planned on any of this when I put the order in. If you want to you can buy
these components.
Which make it remote control and you can use the remote with up to 8 trains. However the remote is £11 and the remaining components are about £10-£11 each. So it's £44 to motorise the train.
To buy a 12v motor is £65 second hand

. So I am VERY glad I found the train stuff. I have two motors and could temporarily use one motor over Christmas which is fine, but would be nice to know it's always functional.
So if it's £44 for the bits, you start to think why not buy a new train for a bit more and then just buy the 3 "non remote" components for the Christmas train utilising the remote from the set one would buy and have two remote controlled trains. Problem is even on eBay the cheapest train is about £50 if you are lucky and although some are very cool they duplicate what I have already - cargo and passenger trains.
After much churning I decided to just use a 12v motor temporarily. I think I wanted to have it running around in the house on Christmas morning for a laugh and thought I would need the new stuff because the newer track is not powered. I could just try to use some of the original track if there is some left with a second controller in the house with the 12v modded in.
I was getting worried about cost. Especially as I just bought
this station second hand.
I thought I could use the money saved to buy a OO gauge cargo ship and cargo crane for the dock instead which would be a better use of money. Of course then I remembered that OO gauge is 1:76 scale, so freighter would be huge........and expensive.

So then the question was what I put in the water of Brendam docks? There are not a lot of 1:76 scale boats. 1:72 is not far off, but pretty much everything is military and Second World War. My Dad had some kits (his own plastic stash) but nothing thought would fit the setting. I found. Good lifeboat from Airfix on eBay which came with a helicopter. They could be painted up like two of the characters from Thomas the Tank Engine. But the lifeboat would fill most of the designated water area.
I ultimately decided on a change of concept and the water area will now be a lake with a pebble beach edge. It will fit much better and am very happy with the change.
22nd November 2016
Next I built the "control station" sitting under the short edge hill:
It needs a back piece to make it look tidy which I didn't have time to cut that night due to lateness. There will be a hole for wires which will feed cables to track and to power extension block under the board.
And with controllers for perspective:
I had planned to make the enclosure 24" long, but I was worried there wouldn't be expansion space for DCC and switches etc, so I went for 28" in the end.
This will have a piece of thin
MDF on top to support the Lego track, station and a level crossing (yes it will juuuust squeeze in next to the station). The crossing will end in the edge of the board, but at least it will be fun to open and close the barrier. The back and short edges will have a "wall" to work against. There will be an aperture cut in to the wall to allow access to the controllers and I think I may cut a "road hole" too for a laugh so Lego cars can finish going across the railway at the crossing. It will make it more interactive for my children too then.
Early days. Not a lot of time until Christmas. But started at least.
24th November 2016
Isn't it sad that after all these years what is a toy has now come to the point that it cost £150 to buy
this!!! (There was an auction for ~£50 but that would likely have sky-rocketed. And still it's £50!). It's got 18 or so components for goodness sake.
This guy has a good solution that I'll likely adapt for trains -
http://www.internetoflego.com/traffic-signal-led-sequence/
The use of the LEDs is not an issue because it just needs to be two LEDs with an on-on switch to go between either colour. His Lego design would work perfectly. But you just think to yourself that a toy that's 30 years old shouldn't be that expensive.
Anyway this would be for a later stage, doubt I'll have time for this before Christmas. But it is amazing what you find on eBay when you look.
26th November 2016
Was planning on making the wall frame and realised that I had mounted the baton too high for the revised way I am going to mount it

. There won't be a surrounding frame any more, it will just be folded up. This means I don't have so much faffing to do, but as I said, the baton was too high.
Anyway, got the board out, cut some templates along a triangular shape to help weight distribution through the wall and then attached the front baton that the hinge will attach to. There will be a thin
MDF "shelf" on top that I haven't cut yet, but in this picture I have placed a sheet on to give you an idea:
The leg in photo is one of two that will be attached to the fold down table. Here's a top view:
Next was to cut out the controller aperture and then attach to the already attached frame for the controllers that doubles as a track support:
I've also put the first layer of
MDF down that will act as the Lego track base and at this end it will also support the station:
Sadly the height of the controller station is probably too low for the Lego controller but at least the switches will work. If I need to I'll just have to pull it out and rest it on something. It's not a big deal and I wasn't going to be able to make anything else easily that was practical and I also wouldn't have been able to get more height anywhere else unless the whole Lego track was suspended higher which would have made the whole thing taller. No. This was a necessary sacrifice.
I will be cutting the internal "back" of the controller area next and then it will be a case of cutting a large number of 4 inch lengths in a batch which will be the Lego track supports and when they are cut I can fly forward with this element. After that it will be a case of fitting the second short edge wall and the back wall and then prior to scenery creation it will be the structural elements for the lake.
Speaking of which, a load of OO gauge people, ducks, swans and geese have arrived too which is cool. I wish I had the hills closer to finishing because I need to buy some tunnel portals but need to make sure a standard size will fit the double track because it is wider apart than I have seen when looking online. If my track is too wide I'll need to make my own which I'd rather not if I can help it.
Hopefully soon I'll be making hills and other scenery so the terrain element of this project will come to play. Then it will be far more wargame. If the MODs are unhappy with the current theme I can stop posting until I get to the terrain part. Just let me know.
Automatically Appended Next Post: Just a quick addition. Not a large number of additions, but a stride forward:
I am getting worried about doing the electrics - partly it being new to me (i.e. Do I need to do this thing everyone talks about where there are multiple power contacts along the whole length from a "bus" wire to ensure current is equal along the length?), but also when to do it all (i.e. Do I do it before I do the scenery or after? Is there some that must be done before scenery and some after? Etc etc).