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So quick question. One of my friends read on dakkadakka that the GW "citadel glue" was actually not all that good for gluing models, and I should get regular super glue. I have "gorilla glue" which is really strong, but I was wondering if this was so. I just spent over $300 on my first army, (1,192.56 CAN total in my group) including paints. So if i could save a couple bucks that would be great. But I am more than willing to shell out to insure our models are the best they can be.

So is it true, high end super glue is better than citadel? Note: He could not find the thread he read the glue thing on, otherwise I wouldn't be making a new thread. Thanks guys!

Revell plastic glue, ethyl-2-cyanoacrylate superglue. Can't go wrong.

The citadel plastic glue with the metal applicator is really good, just make sure to keep it clear with a sewing pin or staple.
The super glues however, are bad. The brush idea is awesome but its very stringy and dries out pretty easily.

If you have an FLGS or a hobby store that carries storebranded glues, most likely they are from BSi. Get them if they are. That is the best glue out there. Citadel takes forever to bond in my experience. BSi sells glues in all types of ranges, from foam-safe to super thin super fast to good gap-filling glues. Most stores who carry BSi will also carry new applicator tips, in case yours gets ruined.

If you can't find BSi, go to the store and pickup LocTite.

This stuff. We generally seem to have a parade for it when this thread shows up.

 Orktapus wrote:
The citadel plastic glue with the metal applicator is really good

ಠ_ಠ

 n0t_u wrote:
This stuff. We generally seem to have a parade for it when this thread shows up.

 Orktapus wrote:
The citadel plastic glue with the metal applicator is really good

ಠ_ಠ

Is that stuff even available on this side of the pond?

Not sure. It's the Revell stuff anyway just need to look around.

Even if it isn't - Testors make a similar product in their "model master" brand. Complete with metal needle applicator.

Testors IS available in the US.
Revell contacta should be available in UK/Eu as they are a German company.

I use plastistruc plastic weld.
http://www.kitkraft.biz/product.php?productid=1418
i use small disposable microbrushes they are a one night use tool. they are like $2 for 10

I've never bothered with Plastic Glue, just gone for ethyl-2-cyanoacrylate superglue as Johnno says, personally for me that was the green Zap-a-Gap.

Never had an issue with it, it doesn't create quite as strong a bond, but it's strong enough to keep your models in one piece through normal use, and I've actually appreciated being able to pry some things apart down the line to change them.

Citadel plastic glue is HORRIBLE for keeping models together long term. The only good thing about it is that it gives you a good period of time where you can move the piece around and play with the position before it dries...but it is terrible in terms of your models staying in one piece, which is sort of the point.

Ive been experimenting with various super glues lately and none of them have been significantly different from the others, I can only say do NOT buy citadel glue. It's more expensive and doesn't work as wel l.

I also recomend pining or magnetizing your models, all of the arms of the troops that you plan on playing with. It gives you a great deal more customizability

Yup, any cyanoacrylate superglue is the same. I just buy the cheap stuff from walgreens.

As for plastic "glue" that's really just gelatinized acetone, never, ever use.

Ever.


For any reason.

If you already have Gorilla Glue, use that. I use it and it works great.

For Super Glue this is what I use:
http://www.amazon.com/Stuff-Super-Glue-Woodworking-Crafts/dp/B0002IXLT2

Hands down the best I've ever used. It doesn't "frost" as bad like the cheaper super glues do, and has some gap filling qualities. I prefer it over anything eals, and highly recomand it if you can get it locally.



As for plastic glue, I use Testor's Plastic glue that comes in the Red tubes. Cheap and a good quality. NEVER squeeze the tube to get the glue out of it directly to a modle thow. Other wise it just explodes all over the modle. The stuff doesn't so much glues the plastic as it melts the plastic to fuze the parts together. You don't need much to make a bond. Just put some on abit of cardboard and use a tooth pick to apply a drop.

I prefer plastic glue for my plastic modles, because it's easier to work with then super glue and makes longer lasting bonds. Super Glue bonds snap when modles are dropped on the floor. The modle it self will break before a set plastic glue bound breaks.

Hope that helps!

Tenax 7-R combined with a separate capillary applicator like the TOUCH-N-FLOW.

I prefer a separate applicator over one which is attached the the bottle as it prevents the occasional vapor burst which happens on the bottles as well as being easier to get into odd locations.

Tenax is a hotter solvent compared to Revell, Testors et al. It has a smell that makes me think it is methylene chloride based. Being hotter means that less solvent will do more work faster. If I need something that will work a bit slower, in order to adjust parts to get a tight fit...Weld-On #3.

When I am going through and playing around with parts though, a cheap super glue is the way to go. You can test fit a selection of bits to see how you like it and then once you like it, you can use a tiny touch of plastic cement to weld it in place. If you don't like it - super glue bonds are easy enough to break on plastic joints.

The revell stuff is available in the UK, I use it almost religiously. Cheap, decent amount in a pot, and a metal applicator.

I don't bother with plastic glue, I only use super glues. I use both Gorilla Glue super glue and Loctite Ultra Gel Control (when I need the precision).

I recently got the loctite modeling glue professional liquid...Best I have every used. got it at walmart for like 2-3 bucks....the only downside is you HAVE to know exactely where you are going to put the part when glueing together because it sticks within the count of 3-5. Worked greats for my battlesuits though because of so many weird parts.

I use the Citadel Plastic Glue for standard miniatures and Gorilla Super Glue for resins, metal, or anything that needs a really strong bond.

I use this on plastic models because of the awesome little brush applicator and the fact that it melts together the plastic creating a seamless bond:



I use super glue gel in whatever form is available for metal and for attaching models to bases over my custom bases.

The Testor's plastic glue is great. Just be mindful when using plastic glues that fuse your plastic pieces together. For metal/resin you'll want to use super glues, as the plastic weld won't hold here.I generally use the super glue pens I find at my local Hobby Lobby as I enjoy the applicator.

WoW that is a lot of info, Kind of hard to know which recomendation to take. Sadly that UK super glue is not available (to my knowledge) in Canada. But at least I now know i was right not to waste my money on citadel glue!

If you're using regular Gorilla Glue, you need a different glue. If you don't want plastic cement that will melt your models and make them impossible to separate without making your own incisions and sawing off the entire welded limb, then use Gorilla Super Glue. Super strong bond that doesn't go brittle like other super glues, and will withstand heat above 200 degrees Fahrenheit and below 0 degrees without freezing and snapping.

I actually use a generic super glue brand. Loctite is the name. Very easy and very effective.

I wouldn't use Gorilla Glue if I were you. Too messy. I don't have any experience with Gorilla Super Glue though. I'm just thinking of the regular type that expands... not good for your models.

And to add to/reinforce other comments on Citadel Glue, it truly isn't worth it. It doesn't have a strong bond, is very gooey and difficult to work with and takes a lot more time to dry than truly necessary. The only thing it has over super glue--and this was mentioned above--is that it gives you time to move the parts around. I think it gives you too long, however. Staying with super glue and simply holding the dry parts to the model before gluing them is perfectly workable.

In summary, so you have a broad takeaway and can just go and buy some glue:

1. Get super glue.
2. It doesn't have to be fancy. Just get something that works for you. Try something generic.
3. Consider what you like or dislike about your choice. In your future glues, look for traits that will address the dislikes and retain the likes.
4. Enjoy.

 chromedog wrote:
Even if it isn't - Testors make a similar product in their "model master" brand. Complete with metal needle applicator.

Testors IS available in the US.
Revell contacta should be available in UK/Eu as they are a German company.

I second the support of Testors if you can find it. the stuff makes a bond so strong once it sets the plastic will be weaker in the pieces themselves rather than the seams.
also as far as super glue goes I recommend Loctite ULTRA Gel Control, it's the same as the stuff people will recommend, but makes a stronger bond than the regular gel control. I haven't even had to pin when I use the stuff.

I always use super glue because it doesn't smell and it's easier to fix mistakes since it doesn't weld stuff together

I use loctite super glues.

Down the road if you want to re-model something, you can generally "pop" the super glue bond and scrape off the old glue with a razor blade.

Plastic glue "melts" the plastic together, making it a one time deal.

I said gorilla glue as I figured he meant their super glue. I use the Gorilla Super Glue and it's awesome.

I just use Testors glue both the liquid which gives me time to set arms and such in the position I want them in, and the gel stuff in the red tube which works really well. Then I keep a tube of super glue around with a brush applicator for emergency repairs and such.

One can never be too carefull.