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You guys kill me. How in the hell does anyone expect anyone to make a fraction of a frakkin rivet?!?!?!?!?!?


Mein Gott........


And these Lucius aren't anywhere near riveting stage.....



Soon though...

no one screams for a medic after a headexplosion... no one... maybe for a mob and a bucket... but not for a medic...

moving on...

@ max Can't wait to see them tho...
I get excited even when someone just quotes your pictures....
Love looking at the detail on your work.

... And no Vik not sexualy excited...

@ Vik Could I have both?

Hey, there had better not be any brains on my floor.....

i guess we wont be that lucky...

and silver...no!

Aw....


Wait how am I talking if I have no.....

*Falls to ground*

lol...classy...comedian backturn^^

LOL

I make fractions of rivets all the time! Not on purpose though... It's easy when you go to stab it with the knife and push too hard and it splits!

Hahaha , thats why I took a break from riveting. Kept cutting them in half....

And here I thought that they should be placed by hand...

Wondered how you all lived with the glue on your hands....

no need for glue on the fingas- rivets stick to skin no problem! To put them onto plastic however, you need glue, and something sharp and pointy to stick them with!

unfortunatly I didn't think of the knife for placement....

Rivets stick to fingers better with glue...

it is called rivet-zen... you get the hang of it soon enough... it is a special state of mind one gets into when doing more than fifty rivets in one go...and you will be surpised...you actually feel a bit calmed and happy...trust us^^

for this i specially built a tool...i used an old xactoknife handle and put a thin needle inside...instant rivet aplicator...after that you dip the rivet on the needle in a puddle of glue and put it into position...the glue and the material of rivet and stuff (vehicle/mini/terrainpiece) connect and you can get the needle out of the rivet... finished placing one rivet...7534 rivets still to go...

Viktor von Domm wrote:it is called rivet-zen... you get the hang of it soon enough... it is a special state of mind one gets into when doing more than fifty rivets in one go...and you will be surpised...you actually feel a bit calmed and happy...trust us^^

for this i specially built a tool...i used an old xactoknife handle and put a thin needle inside...instant rivet aplicator...after that you dip the rivet on the needle in a puddle of glue and put it into position...the glue and the material of rivet and stuff (vehicle/mini/terrainpiece) connect and you can get the needle out of the rivet... finished placing one rivet...7534 rivets still to go...

After the Front aeleron winglets on the Electro-Hawk I was in Nirvana for a few good hours. Very relaxing.....


I will have to build said applicator for the rivets.....


With the needle and all....

I agree that I should build the rivet aplicator as well...



Thanks for letting us know about it Vik!

just make sure that the needle is very thin and sharp like a jalapeno...otherwise the rivet might fall off too early... you have to puncture it and then dip it...

as i mostly done the cardboard riveting i can say this worked with a thicker needle too...but the way thicker PC/styrene is either best tackeld with a sharp point of a fresh xacto knife or a needle as described...

Sounds good! I was going to head out tomorrow and get a ton of needles anyway so that works well...

Sharp like a Jalapeno? Is that a Jalapeno on a Shteeck?

lol...be careful wher you put that Shteeck then lol^^

Good idea there Vik …. I will go build said item right away man of so many talents ……. you clever bastard

LOL...

I dont speak German ……..

An entire page devoted to rivets is quite enough; my email notification is overflowing. Let me try to put this speculation to bed.

I'll attempt to explain how I make and install rivets that is a procedure that is quick and efficient: you don't need special pick up tools just the #11 Xacto blade and handle.

Take a rod of styrene of the desired rivet diameter and with a NEW #11 Xacto blade http://web4.hobbylinc.com/gr/xac/xacx611.jpg mounted in it's handle dice off a couple of dozen slices about a half a mm thick. so they look like tiny tuna tins i.e. short cylinders. Don't worry about variations in height we'll address that later.

Using the # 11 blade gently stick the blade tip into the top of the tiny cylinder. You're not skewering a goat so you need only touch the tip to the top of the rivet to pick it up, they don't weigh nothin'! It should be here that I point out that if you make the rivet too tall it will lie on it's side and be difficult to pick up with the blade tip because it will keep falling over.

Now that you have the rivet skewered by the blade dip it into a small puddle of:

Tamiya Thin Set plastic cement http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam87038.htm

or Ambroid ProWeld plastic weld http://mfpilot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=40_66&products_id=68

or Testors plastic solvent, http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tes/tes3502.htm

Testors is the weakest of these three whereas Ambroid and Tamiya are on a par. There is a few really high potency solvents on the market but I have never used them they evaporate too fast.

There are half a dozen manufacturers but you want the stuff that doesn't evaporate too quickly.

I have also used old solvent that has lost a bit of it's volatiles so the little puddle stays around for a bit.

The beauty of using these solvents is there is virtually no surface tension so the rivet isn't dragged off the blade tip when you exit the puddle.

and transfer the rivet (still on the tip of the knife) to the area you want to install it on.

Gently touch the rivet to the surface and maintain the slight pressure for a few seconds until the rivet stays on the surface as you remove the knife blade.

Do this until you have a good row of rivets set and dry and then with a fine file or as I use a steel fingernail board dress the rivets down to the required height.

Do this for as long as you have the endurance and eventually you will have a model studded with rivets as mxwllmdr's excellent T'hawk displayed so many pages ago.

Thinset or Proweld plastic solvent

interesting...never heard of this stuff...

just did a quick ebay search and this will be next on my to buy list...

Since I've blown the entire morning reading and answering posts instead of working on my projects I may as well compound the felony by addressing the subject of cutting boards.

This mind you is what works for me and I cast no aspersions on methods of other hobbyists but it seems to me that these self healing foam mats with the surface marked off in square cm or inches that are being used are an unnecessary expense and too soft for cutting fine items such as the afore mentioned rivets.

I use an old kitchen hardwood cutting board that my wife discarded years ago. The surface is scarred and I have accidentally drilled holes in it over the years some of which come in handy for anchoring bits of plastic but it's hard enough that the work doesn't sink into a dimple when you bear down to cut.

Lately I have taken to using a hard white nylon cutting board that has a slightly textured surface. It has some advantages and disadvantages. One is that it is not warped and seems impervious to knife cuts and saw cuts (within reason of course). THE disadvantage is my tired old eyes can't see the rivets on the white surface easily so its back to the wood board for that work.

The_Blackadder wrote:An entire page devoted to rivets is quite enough; my email notification is overflowing.

ONE page is enough?? LOL You are definately nOT subbed to the other -=]_,=- threads then!

Plastruct Plastic Weld is another brand, but I find it soo thin that the rivets are not as durable to handling as with Testors blue.

Testors Blue isn't that the child safe (non-sniffing) thick glue?

I use that and/or the adult red (high inducing) (God how close do you have to get to the stuff to be affected by the fumes??????????) for gluing large surfaces together where capillary action isn't sufficient penetration but isn't it quite messy and too slow drying for rivet work? I used my method for Lucie and have never lost a rivet even when filing them.

have never lost a rivet even when filing them.

that´s saying something alright...

God how close do you have to get to the stuff to be affected by the fumes??????????)

aren´t you americans famous for sueing even cofeey shops for having cups of coffey that were previously not labeld hot coffey? i mean... american companies get extra careful with such advices... in fact here in europe we sometimes make fun of these things... sometimes even things like children sweets would be difficult to handle for americans it seems...case in point : kinder eggs...



at blackadder still... i like how you use handy and usual kitchen stuff... sometimes it is nice to see someone that hasn´t gone all hightech for his hobby... the self healing cutting mats for instance sound like a charm... but i also use from a recent aborted project of mine some old and rather wasted looking MDF plates... i ruined them with PVA and insulation foam... but then i felt that the project didn´t work out as planned so i took the foam off...essentialy ruining the boards...so now they are used till they perrish as heavy duty cutting boards...

ar dave...

ONE page is enough?? LOL You are definately nOT subbed to the other -=]_,=- threads then!

methinks too

Regarding the afore mentioned plastic solvents,

While I prefer the Ambroid ProWeld I find the brush too big for small work and you waste a lot of expensive solvent through evaporation. Likewise the Testors applicator brush.

Get yourself at least one bottle of Tamiya because of the very fine brush which incidentally telescopes to the bottom of the jar; very handy when the bottle empties. and the square bottle is less prone to tipping as with the Testors and the very prone to tipping ProWeld.

Another trick when you are running low on solvent is to drop glass marbles into the jar to raise the fluid level.


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My biggest laugh comes from product recall where an item is withdrawn from the shelf because it contains parts small enough to swallow. Aren't these kids ever let outdoors. The world is full of parts small enough to swallow.

If your kid is too dumb not to swallow things chances are he'll end up choking on a pebble.

Darwin was right, "Survival of the fittest!"


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No page transfer again