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i paint it with many layers and you can still see some black underneath it, anyone have some tips?

Try painting a grey, then a brown, then a bleached bone, and then a white layer.

Usually though, I just use very thin layer after layer of white until I get to where I want it.

I don't do big fields of white, but the white on my CSM is codex grey, then a couple layers of white. Works very well, but again large fields of it might not work so hot. I've also done codex -> fortress -> white/fortress -> white to get a nice shading effect on more detailed stuff.

- Salvage

The GW Foundation paints can accomplish this task very effectively. I don't know if they have a white, but they do have greys and browns for quick mid-layer jumps. Though, assuming they do have a white, it'd only take one to two coats of that to get a full, even coverage.

Why would you ever want to do that I wonder these days!!!?
Any logical reason for not using white primer??

Having painted 3 of my last armies over white prime, I have "seen" the light.

I honestly thought no one painting armies* painted over white undercoat anymore. Shrug. Just goes to show it takes all sorts, I suppose.




*As opposed to painting display/competition pieces, obviously.

Assumption, the mother of all *fudge* ups? Isn't that an American saying.

I actually thought so too. Then I realised it's the best of both worlds and allows you to do stuff black simply doesn't, while black's only real benefit over white is that it shades the hardest to reach areas for you.

using lacquer or enamel white (flouquil or testors) over acrylic paint has worked for me i have painted white over GW reds & black with out a problem another color that realy stands out is a VERY pale blue from testors called duck egg blue i use it to add highlights to sandy shaded whites

Posted By Stu-Rat on 08/03/2007 11:49 AM
I honestly thought no one painting armies* painted over white undercoat anymore. Shrug. Just goes to show it takes all sorts, I suppose.




*As opposed to painting display/competition pieces, obviously.

I've used both (depending upon what colors the model will be) and have started spliting the difference... Grey Primer.

Back on topic...Depending on the look you're trying to achieve here's what I do...

Warm white: adeptus grey, bleached bone, bleached bone + white, white

Cool white: adeptus grey, AG + white, white

 

depending if you want a "warm" or "cool" white, the foundations are totally the way to go.
for warm- mask the black out with dheneb stone, then go up to white
for cold- mask the black with astronomicon grey, then go up to white

Brush painting white over black will never work well. The only choices really are either to spray it, or to use a couple layers of intermediate colors. I tend to like using various shades of tan.

But what's wrong with a white basecoat? The color of the basecoat all depends on the color of the topcoat, and how you apply it. It's almost impossible to paint Imperial Fists without spraying white then spraying yellow.

Posted By Hans on 08/04/2007 7:01 PM
Brush painting white over black will never work well. The only choices really are either to spray it, or to use a couple layers of intermediate colors. I tend to like using various shades of tan.

But what's wrong with a white basecoat? The color of the basecoat all depends on the color of the topcoat, and how you apply it. It's almost impossible to paint Imperial Fists without spraying white then spraying yellow.

Sometimes you only want a bright color in a specific spot. Maybe if I ever finish my tau crisis suits I'll show one that has a bright pattern on the chest while everything else is dark.

"I honestly thought no one painting armies* painted over white undercoat anymore. Shrug. Just goes to show it takes all sorts, I suppose."

Different painting styles for different people, its ART so there is no right or wrong answer, just diferent techniques and klevels of skill.

I ALWAYS use a white undercoat, but then my method of painting can be summed up as:
1. white undercoat
2. dark shade of paint (two colour pots darker on the palette ) watered down VERY heavily - add black ink if not dark enough. Apply this as a watercolour paint.
3. repeat with lighter shade, slightly stronger mix.
4. Progress lighter shades and thicker paints until mix is 50/50 and the colour you want it.
5. Drybrush and inkwash normally from there.

This is a very good way of getting shading right for white and black. I would be prepared to use black underrcoat for dark armours such as Night Lords (if I did them), but I would ironically use a white undercoast to paint Raven Guard or Ravenwing (if I did them).

Also heavily watered down boltgun metal over white is a good single coat for High Elf or Bretonnian armour as you get a pastel metallic colour, you only need a bit of drybrushed mithril silver to complete this to perfection. Try it and see. I would use this method to paint Iron Warriors and you definately exheed the quality of traditional metal over black painting styles, assuming it was painted by someone of equal skill.


For heads I use foundation paint watered down slightly onto plastic without undercoat at all. This keeps the paint layers thin so that detail is preserved.

I've just painted a Leman Russ in Winter camo and that was a bit of a challenge.

I primed it with Gunzyo's Mr Resin Primer (as it was a FW conversion kit and mostly resin), this gave the mini a nice primer layer ready for painting that also had a very light grey colouring to it. Whilst technically not a paint it covered the darker plastic areas and blended the tones evenly.

From here I tried a few different methods. First I tried using Artists oil Gouche with some turpentine thinner (saw some techniques on a scale model website). This allowed even layers of white and gave a good result. However down side is the long drying time of the painnt when used with the thinner.

Then Foundation paints were released...

I ended up repainting most of the tank with the lightest shade of Foundation Grey (sadly the range has no white... but I'm keen to try the P3 white that seems similar in coverage strength to GW foundation). Sadly I can't remember the name of the lightests grey (only just started using them).

Once the Foundation grey was in I built up a layer of lightest foundation grey mixed with citadel colour skull white. Mixing Foundation paints with standard Citadel Colour works very well as it will add much better coverage strength and also allow for more natural shades of colour.

After this 60-40 mix I painted two very light layers of watered down Skull white to finish off.

Once that was done I painted on Fortress Grey camo patterns, added some Archers Dry Transfers (incidently the finest dry transfers I've ever used. No nasty shiny silvering that yuo get from water based ones and went on a dream. Also the catalogue of WW1 WW2 and modern insignia, numbering, and letters is amazing!).

Then once I had a beautiful white shiny tank...

I destroyed it with Mig Pigments and Tamiya Weathering master! BWAHAHAHAHAHA

Yes after hours of careful work building up a nice even white I weathered and distressed it with mud, rust, oil, and soot...