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on all the crisis suits i have seen. there is a little line or even a gap on the model ware the backside of the jump pack gets glued to the middle part.

on one expermenal model, i used an exces ammount of glue on those parts. enough to make it ozze out of the exdge. then shaved / filed it off. that seamed to work out ok, not great but ok. there is still a faint line of the gray plastic. my hopes is that the primer will be enough to fill it in (i use gap filling primer. it is enough to sometimes fix small things like that, while still leaving all the detail of the model alone)

i dont have any green stuff. but we do have a hobby lobby near by.

I use Tamiya Epoxy putty, which is like GW Green Stuff, except the consistency is much different. GW Green stuff dries to a firm, almost rubbery finish that while strong and suitable for sculpting a model capable of holding it's own weight, it has screwed up every file I've ever used on it. I don't think it's a good gap-filler. OTOH, Tamiya putty dries to be fairly brittle. So I wouldn't recommend trying to sculpt with it, but it's excellent for gap-filling.

If you're that concerned about no seam lines, you can use super glue and accelerator. It's an old trick that plane modelers, among others use. Glue the pieces together with plastic cement or super glue and allow to dry. Working carefully with a small puddle of super glue and a pointy tool like a paper clip, add super glue to the gap, zap it with accelerator and let it cure a moment. If the gap isn't completely filled add a little more. Accelerator should not be necessary after the first time, as enough will remain to cure additional glue. You will get some excess glue around the gaps. Work in small lengths of gap, no more than 1-1/2" to 2".

The glue is hard now, but it will get harder if you wait, so now you have to sand it down flush for no seams. I use wet/dry automotive sandpaper in 320, 400, 600, 800 and 1000 grit. Typically I only go up to 600 grit unless I want the finish super smooth. You can use it over your fingertip or wrap it around a popsicle stick. You also need a small bowl of water and some paper towels. Sand the seam wet with 320 grit, dipping the sandpaper in the water and drying the piece with a paper towel to check the seam. When you feel the seam is flush, switch to 400 grit and repeat, then 600, etc...

It takes some time this way, but I guarentee the piece will never separate and bits will never fall off or out of the seam. I filled and sanded all my Tau tank seams along both sides and my hulls look solid, smooth and rounded now.

Good luck!

The main problem I've had was the parts of the jet-pack being warped & not mateing up. I have small machinist screw clamps to hold them together.