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I have noticed that some of the guys on this site are awesome with the Plasticard and such:

When creating conversions and such Plastic card for me would be essential, that is why after some hard tracking i have found a wholesaler that sells it! What I want to know is what is the other modelling materials you guys use to create these great scratchbuilt, and converted models, and where do you get it from. If your not allowed to post the websites then can you please pm them to me cos all i got right now is dis platic card and dats it???

where do you even get plasticard, i cant find it anywere?

You can usually find plasticard and other scratchbuild materials (brass rods/tubes, gears, etc...) in any good hobby shop that also sells model railroad or scale model kits.

My LGS had a very nice selection before they had to close. Now I get my stuff from a larger retail store, Hobby Lobby (US).

I'm sure that there are also plenty of places online to order it, but I've never had to so I couldn't tell you any names.

My LGS had an "Evergreen" rack as well as some other company that I don't recall the name of. I like their stuff.
http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/

Try searching for "styrene" if "plasticard" isn't getting you any results.

I've seen the metal components (brass rod, aluminum sheets) called "engineered materials". That might help you out.

TamMfM wrote:I have noticed that some of the guys on this site are awesome with the Plasticard and such:

When creating conversions and such Plastic card for me would be essential, that is why after some hard tracking i have found a wholesaler that sells it! What I want to know is what is the other modelling materials you guys use to create these great scratchbuilt, and converted models, and where do you get it from. If your not allowed to post the websites then can you please pm them to me cos all i got right now is dis platic card and dats it???

there are loads of different things
i use the stanard green stuff but i'm also using procreate (from Heresy - http://www.heresyminiatures.com/tools.htm) which keeps a harder edge.
i've also just ordered a batch of sculpy from alec terranti (http://www.tiranti.co.uk/subdivision_product_list.asp?Content=Super+Sculpey+%2D+Polymer+Clays+%2D+Modelling+Materials&Subcategory=76&Subdivision=135)
this is used by professionals for movies and such. i'm going to try to make a great unclean one in the fw style.
i've also used milliput before - but please note that the dust from this can contribute to cancer (like MDF).

guitar wire is also a must in my kit for cables & such. any music store should stock them.

check out your local railway modeling store for other interest odds & end like chain, plastic section (like I-beams) and textured plasticard.

Tower Hobbies has an excellent range, including "bulk" 12"x24" sheets.
www.towerhobbies.com

Keep your dull exacto blades, they are MUCH better for cutting lines. Especially if you flip it over and use the odd edge.

No plasticard? Ok, go to your local hardware store and get some 'Help Wanted' or 'For Sale' signs. It's plasticard!

A hole punch. I can't tell you how invaluable it is for rivets. I also have a leather punch, so I have some variation in the rivet size.

Super glue accelerator. I can't tell you how many countless hours I have spent holding models together until the glue dries. Absolutely mind numbing...especially when the glue isn't settled, and your model comes apart anyway! An accelerator will save you time and sanity.

A mini mitre box. Love it. The saw is family.

A fine tip magic marker for drawing lines.

Band Aids. You will bleed. Blood for the plastic god, thumbs for the thumb throne.

Mini files. Hell, you can use a nail file just as well.

Patience. You will want to build a Warhound first time. Start smaller, and just practice with it. I swear you get better!

Can I ask what country you're from? It'll making posting a supplier easier.

If it's the UK (where I am) I get mine from 4D Model Shop - http://www.yellowcatshop.co.uk/shop/default.asp?clientid=14&gid=4dmod

You want the Styrene Sheet in Raw Materials > Plastics. 0.5mm is pretty flexible, 1.0mm is good for most things and 1.5mm is good for building tanks and what not. Interesting things like tubes and I-beams can be found in the strip and shape section.

GCMandrake wrote:Can I ask what country you're from? It'll making posting a supplier easier.

um - there's a little flag on the profile tag!

Dez wrote:Super glue accelerator. I can't tell you how many countless hours I have spent holding models together until the glue dries. Absolutely mind numbing...especially when the glue isn't settled, and your model comes apart anyway! An accelerator will save you time and sanity.

I have to disagree whole-heartedly there.
It's FAR better to hold the pieces until the glue cures naturally.
Accellerator (though I admit using it SPARINGLY) does not "cure" the glue. It simply causes it to harden swiftly.
While the short term benefits of this are nice (ease in assembling swiftly), the long term are disastrous.
Not only are "acellerated" joins far more brittle, coming apart easily, reattaching them can be difficult, as the hardened glue clogs up the area that you are trying to glue.

Dez wrote:Blood for the plastic god, thumbs for the thumb throne.

Brilliant.
Someone should "Sig" that.

Oh, wait... Someone did.


Eric

Poly cement is much better for styrene. The liquid kind not the goop in a tube.

Either one with a 'precision' applicator or a brush. You on't need much and it will bond in seconds. It won't dry for maybe a couple of hours (wiggle room) depending on temperature and climate (britain? Right, that'll take just short of forever, then. ).

Evergreen and plastruct both make the sheets (although you can get it from other manufacturers if you look around.)

Any good hobby store with a model railroad section SHOULD have this stuff (along with plastic tubing/rod in various shapes and styles).

Cheers guys very useful