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Since I have recently started using the new GW washes Mainly due to a lack of ink on my part.

I usually used 3 types of inks:
*Base Goblin green, Dark Green Ink, Scorpion green highlights = ork skin and Gobbos
*Beastial brown, Chestnut Ink, random highlists = Fur and brown leather
*Bleached bone/pink Human colors, chestnut ink = Twine, bandages, skulls, Severed heads
*Ultramarines Blue, Blue Ink, Ice Blue = Vehicles, weapons, pants, other random orky things

Luckily I was able to secure chestnut ink and blue ink. I may run back and buy all I can see, especially chestnut ink for leather (I like the shininess)

But I cannot find dark green ink within 100 miles of me. So I tried the new Wash.

For the most part the end result isn't BAD, just matte and distinct from my other orks. I liked the semi-wet color of the ork flesh with an ink. I like the washes for the black wash and other things I want to experiment with, but I am just curious:

*Anyone know a way to still get some of the old Inks?
*Anyone know any equivalents to the old inks?
*Can I mix the new inks with a bit of gloss to make it act like an ink (glossy finish)

I am just curious if anyone has had any luck recreating the ink look from a wash.

I haven't checked lately but GW had a varnish in a pot that's kind of glossy, I used it on my nids to make em shine. So you could probably just use the washes, and then some of the gloss varnish afterwards to get the shine you like.

Personally i love the new washes, I could never get the inks to flow into all the cracks and stay the way I wanted it to, but the washes seem to work so much better

yhea the washes rule!
i based all my painting schemes on using washes for my orks!

I'll try to take a picture with the difference, I think the washes look good, but different from my other models. I am hoping it is not noticeably different. I have 180 feral orks and 70 dethskulls who are inked and about 150 more that are getting re-painted with washes.

So as long as they look uniform and similar, I am ok.

I am testing on some scrubby slugga boys so if I don't like it I can start over with them without ruining a good model.

I too use the GW inks for tons of my models and now that they are not available its become a real pain. The new washes are OK but they in no way are suitable to match a model done with inks.

I've been looking around and from research I understand that Vallejo Game Colors makes some inks and that they are pretty much exactly the same as GW ones. I need to order some from Neil over at the Warstore to find out.

Scale Creep stocks the Coat d' arms paint range - also known as the old GW paint range. Most of the inks your looking for are available under this brand.
http://www.scalecreep.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=116_126_128

From my experiences I've found that the old inks and the new washes serve different roles. Unfortunately, most people have regarded the new washes as a replacement for the inks, which they are not. Using them as such typically leads to a disappointing result.

Regardless, if you're looking for a current range that is similar to the old inks, you may want to look at the P3 paint range. I believe their washes are the same consistency as the old GW inks. They also come in a handy dropper bottle for easy portioning.

Virulent wrote:From my experiences I've found that the old inks and the new washes serve different roles. Unfortunately, most people have regarded the new washes as a replacement for the inks, which they are not. Using them as such typically leads to a disappointing result.

As someone about to buy the new Washes, can you expand upon this point a bit?

Thanks!

The washes are much better for using over larger areas, similar to the "dipping" technique where the thick consistency prevents splotching . The inks, when used straight from the pot, are great for shading smaller areas, such as eyes, mouths, and black lining applications. Granted you can water the inks down, but this increases the chances of "splotchiness", something I rarely see with the new washes.

Virulent wrote:From my experiences I've found that the old inks and the new washes serve different roles. Unfortunately, most people have regarded the new washes as a replacement for the inks, which they are not. Using them as such typically leads to a disappointing result.

I agree.

I 'wash' vehicles and weapons

I ink leathery ork skin, pants, belts, leather straps.

I attempted to WASH ork skin and pants and it looked like what I did when I started painting 15 years ago: Water down paint and slop it onto a model.

So I have ordered some valejo green and dark green. I will see how they do. until then, my orkies get to sit on hold :(

Are you watering the washes down? You want 0 water in your brush and you want to use the wash fairly heavily.

GMMStudios wrote:Are you watering the washes down? You want 0 water in your brush and you want to use the wash fairly heavily.

Nope, didn't water it down a single bit. For ork skin I don't dilute my inks either.

The models look 'ok'. but not as good as my other orks and not similar. I like having a greasy look to the skin and pants and a metal/matte to the rest. The mate washes make the whole model look flat except of his inked pants.

Ok, the verdict is in... Valejo inks = Good. Citadel washes = bad.

Here are 3 basic paint jobs... First up: Goblin green base, Citadel Thraka Green, Scorpion green drybrush


Next, EXACT SAME TECHNIQUE with ink instead of wash. This is like basic 'slop on the paint, slop on the ink and simple drybrush'


Same thing, but no drybrush or highlights... (metal figs always look better but still, you can see how good a basic look is)


So for waxy skin and leathery flesh... Inks crush washes on everything I have done.

I suck with washes. lol

Redo the Citadel Wash run, but this time apply 2 to 3 coats of Thraka Green. I'm curious to see the results. I'm betting they'll be real close to the Ink.

oni wrote:Redo the Citadel Wash run, but this time apply 2 to 3 coats of Thraka Green. I'm curious to see the results. I'm betting they'll be real close to the Ink.

I'll try a few more coats of the wash, my big beef is inks dry shiny which give the leather and skin a 'waxy' look while washes dry flat flat flat. I will see if it has any effect.

And I really don't want to pay more money for a wash to do 3 coats on 180 models when I can singlecoat with cheap ink and get the desired look immediatly.