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Made in us
Frightnening Fiend of Slaanesh




Ohio, USA

Is there a glue specifically made for pewter miniatures? I have tried several brands of super glue and none of them seem to work worth a darned. Especially on the very intricate designs Im working on now :(

-Jason Banditt Adams
Freelance Illustrator and miniature designer
www.Rogue-Artist.com 
   
Made in us
Homicidal Veteran Blood Angel Assault Marine





Los Angeles

Try the Gale Force 9 glue yet?

Edit: HFJor has a great question too, what are you putting together?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2008/09/02 15:22:55


I play

I will magnetize (now doing LED as well) your models for you, send me a DM!

My gallery images show some of my work
 
   
Made in us
[SWAP SHOP MOD]
Barpharanges






Limbo

I've only ever used super/krazy glue, but for the most part it's never given me problems (depending on what parts need to be attached).

What're you putting together?

DS:80S+GM--B++I+Pwhfb/re#+D++A++/fWD-R+++T(O)DM+++

Madness and genius are separated by degrees of success.

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Made in us
Nasty Nob on Warbike with Klaw





St. Louis, MO

There are several that are marketed towards gamers. If you've been in a game store, you've seen them.
If you've been to a GW store, you've seen their glue.

What are you trying to glue together? That could make a huge difference in what kind of advice you get.

I use generic Superglue that I get at Home Depot.

Are you trying to glue together very large pieces? Heavier pieces need to be pinned to stay together right? Trying to assemble very small pieces? They like to come apart because you don't have a lot of surface area for the glue to adhere to.

Why don't you tell us:

1) What products you've tries
2) What project(s) you're having problems with and
3) What problems you've had (i.e., "I glue the wing on and, when I pull on it, it comes right off.")

I'm certain you'll get more help with that info.


Eric

::Edit::

For nearly TWO hours, nobody touches this thread. *I* start posting a reply and, suddenly, it's Grand Freaking Central Station around here! LOL

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2008/09/02 15:25:08


Black Fiend wrote: Okay all the ChapterHouse Nazis to the right!! All the GW apologists to the far left. LETS GET READY TO RUMBLE !!!
The Green Git wrote: I'd like to cross section them and see if they have TFG rings, but that's probably illegal.
Polonius wrote: You have to love when the most clearly biased person in the room is claiming to be objective.
Greebynog wrote:Us brits have a sense of fair play and propriety that you colonial savages can only dream of.
Stelek wrote: I know you're afraid. I want you to be. Because you should be. I've got the humiliation wagon all set up for you to take a ride back to suck city.
Quote: LunaHound--- Why do people hate unpainted models? I mean is it lacking the realism to what we fantasize the plastic soldier men to be?
I just can't stand it when people have fun the wrong way. - Chongara
I do believe that the GW "moneysheep" is a dying breed, despite their bleats to the contrary. - AesSedai
You are a thief and a predator of the wargaming community, and i'll be damned if anyone says differently ever again on my watch in these forums. -MajorTom11 
   
Made in us
Frightnening Fiend of Slaanesh




Ohio, USA

haven't heard of Gale Force 9. Ill look that up too

We don't have any gaming stores around here :( So m stuck buying super glue, crazy glue, etc at hardware stores.

Im actually having troubles with small, lite parts with very little surface area. Small arms, hands, weapons, etc. The one that's giving me the most problem is from Reaper Miniatures: its this nymph wrapped around a tree. There is two very small tree limbs and her one arm as all separate pieces. Tiny and not taking the glue very well :(

-Jason Banditt Adams
Freelance Illustrator and miniature designer
www.Rogue-Artist.com 
   
Made in us
Flameguard




Scottsdale, AZ

Honestly, I pin really small bits as well with thin jewelry wire QQ Things like skeleton hands / arms.. not that those are pewter, but they're always busting off and I've found once I've pinned them they stick just fine. Anyway, might help~

My center is giving way, my right is in retreat; situation excellent. I shall attack.
My site - My models 
   
Made in gb
Horrific Hive Tyrant





London (work) / Pompey (live, from time to time)

might need cleaning off 1st, some models still have a coating on them and wont stick

Suffused with the dying memories of Sanguinus, the warriors of the Death Company seek only one thing: death in battle fighting against the enemies of the Emperor.  
   
Made in us
Homicidal Veteran Blood Angel Assault Marine





Los Angeles

If you're stuck without any gaming stores near you and really wanna try the Gale Force 9 stuff, PM me and I can mail you out some.

I play

I will magnetize (now doing LED as well) your models for you, send me a DM!

My gallery images show some of my work
 
   
Made in gb
Rotting Sorcerer of Nurgle





Portsmouth UK

i use a generic superglue from a local model railway store. it comes in 3 thicknesses and i always choose the really runny stuff.
if your minis are mostly lead based there's also a high probability that the mini has a fine layer of release agent on it. wash in warm soapy water and leave to dry.
also file flat (if not a ball & socket type joint) both halves before gluing.
if it's a big part it may need pinning - i use a pin vice and florist's wire

Check out my gallery here
Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!! 
   
Made in us
Nasty Nob on Warbike with Klaw





St. Louis, MO

Using too much and not using enough glue are both equal problems.

I'm thinking you need to pin it (probably use a 1/32 and a hand drill). it soundls like it's quite the finnicky little bit.

Eric

Black Fiend wrote: Okay all the ChapterHouse Nazis to the right!! All the GW apologists to the far left. LETS GET READY TO RUMBLE !!!
The Green Git wrote: I'd like to cross section them and see if they have TFG rings, but that's probably illegal.
Polonius wrote: You have to love when the most clearly biased person in the room is claiming to be objective.
Greebynog wrote:Us brits have a sense of fair play and propriety that you colonial savages can only dream of.
Stelek wrote: I know you're afraid. I want you to be. Because you should be. I've got the humiliation wagon all set up for you to take a ride back to suck city.
Quote: LunaHound--- Why do people hate unpainted models? I mean is it lacking the realism to what we fantasize the plastic soldier men to be?
I just can't stand it when people have fun the wrong way. - Chongara
I do believe that the GW "moneysheep" is a dying breed, despite their bleats to the contrary. - AesSedai
You are a thief and a predator of the wargaming community, and i'll be damned if anyone says differently ever again on my watch in these forums. -MajorTom11 
   
Made in us
Frightnening Fiend of Slaanesh




Ohio, USA

Selestine wrote:Honestly, I pin really small bits as well with thin jewelry wire QQ Things like skeleton hands / arms.. not that those are pewter, but they're always busting off and I've found once I've pinned them they stick just fine. Anyway, might help~


Thats something Ive never tried, Selestine, thank you. Ill give it a shot


JD21290 wrote:might need cleaning off 1st, some models still have a coating on them and wont stick


Also something I hadn't considered!


bubber wrote:i use a generic superglue from a local model railway store. it comes in 3 thicknesses and i always choose the really runny stuff.
if your minis are mostly lead based there's also a high probability that the mini has a fine layer of release agent on it. wash in warm soapy water and leave to dry.
also file flat (if not a ball & socket type joint) both halves before gluing.
if it's a big part it may need pinning - i use a pin vice and florist's wire


I dont think there is any lead in this one. But its still something Ill try (washing it) to make sure there is no release agent coating.



MagickalMemories wrote:Using too much and not using enough glue are both equal problems.

I'm thinking you need to pin it (probably use a 1/32 and a hand drill). it soundls like it's quite the finnicky little bit.

Eric



I just grabbed a super glue with a brush applicator from a local general store. Something Ive never seen before! That seemed to do pretty well, after I removed the left-over glue from my previous unsuccessful tries. I hope it stays this time! lol

Thanks everyone!!

-Jason Banditt Adams
Freelance Illustrator and miniature designer
www.Rogue-Artist.com 
   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

Pinning takes a very steady hand for small pieces. If you slip, you can impale yourself on the bit, OR snap the bit (leaving part in the model - or yourself) or a combination of the above (I know, it's happened to me) - especially with the size of the drilbits (1/32 is quite thin.).

Practice pinning, and be very sparing with the superglue. A small drop will do you. Also, a light roughening of at least one of the surfaces WILL help the bond, superglue loves surface area. Roughening it (or 'keying' as it's also known) creates grooves that increase the surface area.

I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.

That is not dead which can eternal lie ...

... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
 
   
Made in us
Frightnening Fiend of Slaanesh




Ohio, USA

chromedog wrote:Pinning takes a very steady hand for small pieces. If you slip, you can impale yourself on the bit, OR snap the bit (leaving part in the model - or yourself) or a combination of the above (I know, it's happened to me) - especially with the size of the drilbits (1/32 is quite thin.).

Practice pinning, and be very sparing with the superglue. A small drop will do you. Also, a light roughening of at least one of the surfaces WILL help the bond, superglue loves surface area. Roughening it (or 'keying' as it's also known) creates grooves that increase the surface area.


Thank you for your advice, it will go to good use

I also thought I would show the actual mini in question:

14479: Elven Dryad
Werner Klocke

http://www.reapermini.com/FigureFinder#detail/14479



-Jason Banditt Adams
Freelance Illustrator and miniature designer
www.Rogue-Artist.com 
   
Made in us
Long-Range Black Templar Land Speeder Pilot






UT

I use a little bit of green stuff if I"m having problems with a difficult connection. superglue is very brittle and green stuff gives it a bit more flexibility and holds it in place while it dries.

A gun is a medium, a bullet a brush. 
   
Made in us
Frightnening Fiend of Slaanesh




Ohio, USA

wash-away wrote:I use a little bit of green stuff if I"m having problems with a difficult connection. superglue is very brittle and green stuff gives it a bit more flexibility and holds it in place while it dries.


that is something I also had not thought of.

-Jason Banditt Adams
Freelance Illustrator and miniature designer
www.Rogue-Artist.com 
   
Made in us
[SWAP SHOP MOD]
Barpharanges






Limbo

I pretty much agree with Selestine's and chromedog's advice.

Pinning does wonders. I've never tried on really small pieces though, especially not on pewter minis (I lost all of my smallest diameter bits that way).

DS:80S+GM--B++I+Pwhfb/re#+D++A++/fWD-R+++T(O)DM+++

Madness and genius are separated by degrees of success.

Remember to follow the Swap Shop Rules and Guidelines! 
   
 
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