Switch Theme:

Weighted bases?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Dakka Veteran







I'm assembling CSM Raptors, which are excellent looking yet questionably balanced models. They use the slotted small infantry base. Does anyone know of a website that offers weighted bases?

Either that, or I'd welcome any ideas on how to weigh them down.

"Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm." 
   
Made in us
Nasty Nob







Well, I like putting a nickel in the bottom for bases that have space. For the slotta bases, I know that one way to weight them is to glue a washer onto the bottom. With a little time at the hardware store, it should be possible to find the perfect size.

TYRANID ARMY and more for sale. Many Price Drops. 40K and More.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/662336.page

Orks is never beaten.  
   
Made in us
Battleship Captain





Perth

Problem is, though, that if you glue the washer to the bottom, it messes up the nice consistency of height of your bases.

One of the less optimal solutions for things like Raptors is to take and bend the slotta tab flat and glue it to a non-slotted base. Then glue a nickel under the base. Problem is that once you've bent that metal between the foot and tab, it'll get weaker and weaker with use until it breaks.

The more optimal solution is to break/cut off the slotta tab and drill up into the foot of the model. Instead of doing just a short pin like you would for holding an arm or leg on a model, give yourself an inch of wire/metal rod. Once you've inserted it in the hole in the foot, bend it so that it's flat to the base and bend it in a flat spiral or triangle - something with a lot of surface area. Glue the pin in the foot and the spiral/triangle to the top of the non-slotta base and cover it with sand/basing material. Then glue the nickel to the bottom of the non-slotta base for weight.

Man, I wish there was a real Black Library where I could get a Black Library Card and take out Black Library Books without having to buy them. Of course, late fees would be your soul. But it would be worth it. - InquisitorMack 
   
Made in us
Long-Range Ultramarine Land Speeder Pilot



Whitebear lake Minnesota.

A:glue a rock on the base then the model on the rock

B:those metal bits that come with every metal model you know the metal you shave off find a few bigger pieces and glue those under the base on the lighter side

both of these worked for me.

2500-3000pts
1500pts
750pts

2500pts Bretonnians 
   
Made in us
[ARTICLE MOD]
Huge Hierodule






North Bay, CA

I cut pennies in half and glue them in

   
Made in ca
Sister Vastly Superior






Canada

I glue 3/8" washers to the bases and then just paint them with the base. Works perfectly well.

Midgard Models seem to use solid resin bases, which are a bit heavier. They do some nice scenic bases too.

http://stores.ebay.ca/id=183806373&ssPageName=STRK:MEFSX:SST

All in all though, washes are cheaper.

- Deathskullz - 6000 points
- Order of the Sacred Rose - 2000 points 
   
Made in us
Infiltrating Broodlord






you can always mix some fishing weights into some greenstuff and fill in the base or cut the metal tab so there is space to stick a washer

 
   
Made in ca
Pyromaniac Hellhound Pilot





Calgary

Or cut the metal tab so you can put in a nickel.

It's better to simply be an idiot, as no one can call you on it here. -H.B.M.C.

Cap'n Gordino's instant grammar guide:
"This is TOO expensive." "I'm going TO the store, TO get some stuff."
"That is THEIR stuff." "THEY'RE crappy converters."
"I put it over THERE." "I'll go to the store THEN."
"He knows better THAN that." "This is NEW." "Most players KNEW that." 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






The land of cotton.

I used to take split shot (fishing sinkers) and beat them flat and glue them into the bases of my Hormagants when I did Tyranids.

Since then I've seen cast metal slotted bases but can't find a link at the moment. Couldn't say if they were even in production any more, but have seen such an animal..

Resin bases weighted with buckshot come to mind.
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





I've glued fishing weights to the bottom of some. Now, I just use the GF9 magnetic bases which are a little heftier and help.

In the dark future, there are skulls for everyone. But only the bad guys get spikes. And rivets for all, apparently welding was lost in the Dark Age of Technology. -from C.Borer 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran







Excellent, thanks for the great suggestions!

"Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm." 
   
Made in gb
Rotting Sorcerer of Nurgle





Portsmouth UK

i know i've seen a website which sells metal bases but i can't remember the name!
try putting a small coin within the base & if you need more weight, a larger coin / washer underneath.
superglue works but you may need to get rid of that tiny 'nipple' that comes on all the new GW 25mm bases and you may want to sandpaper the coin before gluing to ensure a really good bond.

Check out my gallery here
Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!! 
   
Made in de
[ARTICLE MOD]
Cultist of Nurgle with Open Sores





Germany, Sauerland

I recommend building a little casting mold for 25mm and 40mm bases. Since you'll be using tons of these bases, it is worth the hassle. Imho.

Either build a casting mold for a whole base (in that case, you can add details) and cast it with tin or just build the inserts for standard gw bases (from lead, preferably, bigger specific weight).

Casting the complete base is easy: just press it into plaster and let it harden. Grind the mold flat, add some plywood backing (tin is not hot enough to set it on flames) and start casting.

Casting the inserts needs one step more, spray the base with vaseline, insert the material for the prototype (use greenstuff or fimo or whatever), let it harden, take it out, press the inserts into plaster.

Note: I dunno if you can lead in plaster form or if that is too hot and breaks the cast. Plus, I am not sure how healthy the vapors are. Because I wanted lead for its weight and I had sheets of it lying around, I built myself a "cookie cutter" for the inserts instead. But that requires some welding or blacksmithing and therefore might be a wee bit overkill.

Painted armies: 3000+ Nurgle CSM. Converted, yet unpainted armies: Too many.
DR:80S+G++M+++B++I-Pw40k03D++A++WD-R+++T(D)DM+ 
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Sentient OverBear






Clearwater, FL

I just use small bird and game shot, as they work in any base with any sort of space in the bottom. Works well, and gives plastic models a little extra heft.

DQ:70S++G+++M+B++I+Pw40k94+ID+++A++/sWD178R+++T(I)DM+++

Trust me, no matter what damage they have the potential to do, single-shot weapons always flatter to deceive in 40k.                                                                                                       Rule #1
- BBAP

 
   
Made in ca
Avatar of the Bloody-Handed God





Inactive

groz wrote:I'm assembling CSM Raptors, which are excellent looking yet questionably balanced models. They use the slotted small infantry base. Does anyone know of a website that offers weighted bases?

Either that, or I'd welcome any ideas on how to weigh them down.


does playdoe work?or clay if you fill in the other half of base to counterbalance

Paused
◙▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
           ◂◂  ►  ▐ ▌  ◼  ▸▸
          ʳʷ   ᵖˡᵃʸ  ᵖᵃᵘˢᵉ  ˢᵗᵒᵖ   ᶠᶠ 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran







Update: After some more work, I've found that the Raptors are poorly balanced to the left and right, but decently balanced backwards and forwards. (These directions are relative to the slot base--when the model is facing you, that is the front face of the model. The left and right are "in line" with the slot base.)

In other words, the models want to tip left or right, but backwards and forwards are relatively stable. I've been able to offset this by gluing the model to the base such that the metal slot tab is at an angle to the base (15-20 degrees in some cases). The best way to determine the balance is to look at the model from overhead and try to make sure that the mass of the model is as centered over the base as possible. Once this is accomplished, you can glue it in place.

Then I filled in the rest of the slot with green stuff to strengthen the slot-model connection.

The final step will be to glue in some fishing weights under the base and pack green stuff over it. Thanks again for the good ideas.


"Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm." 
   
Made in fi
Hungry Little Ripper






IM going to use this on my gaunts because of their irritating numbers, put small magnets to the base, then buy some magnetic paper and when you have magnetic movement tray!

My table is like the great devourer, it devours all biomass from my house and turns them into nids!
 
   
Made in jp
[MOD]
Anti-piracy Officer






Somewhere in south-central England.

Rather than packing the base with Green Stuff use a cheaper resin such as Milliput or Plastic Padding.

I'm writing a load of fiction. My latest story starts here... This is the index of all the stories...

We're not very big on official rules. Rules lead to people looking for loopholes. What's here is about it. 
   
Made in au
Sureshot Kroot Hunter




Australia

I just put a coin with blue tack on my bases

"What do you think my A stands for France?!" ultimate captain america
 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: