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I caved and bought a set. Gorilla Tactics has them for $230 shipped. Question, how have people been painting these. I decided not to buy the scenery pack and plan on spray painting mine as a basecoat and then drybrushing with some standard craft paints (e.g., Liquitex). I'm thinking of using the Krylon or Rustoleum Camo Brown for the base. They're designed for plastics/outdoor use, so the paint should be fairly durable.

Did you see Panic's article?

yep. He used the scenery kit and spent 14 hours doing it. I'm looking for something where I can spend 1-2 hours.

I would probably approach it in much the same way as you are thinking Iffy.

I've seen one similar to what you are thinking at Battleforge Games in Austin, only in black with grey drybrushing. Works out nicely if you ask me. Just need to be careful that the brush strokes don't show up.

malfred wrote:Did you see Panic's article?

Is that in the articles section? I can't seem to find it.....might have something to do with my beverage this evening but I can't be sure.

Here's the link to Panic's article

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/224216.page

I have a small (3") roller that I may try out over a Camo Brown spray. I'll see how that works.

The one I played on looked similar to Grey Death's description, black with grey drybrushing(or was it grey with black drybrushing? Not sure). Looks fairly nice. Kind of barren, but if that's what you're looking for, that's fine.

IMO with a nice kit such as this I wouldn't dare go with a rushed 1-2 hour job.

Spend the 12-14 hours over a weekend or two and you'll thnak yourself for years to come...

First off liquitex is NOT a craft paint it is an art paint there is a difference between a tempea paint and liquitex which is about four times better than ccitadel paint in every way. (not to be ranty)

Anyways make shore you use krylon ulta flat fusion camp colors, they have black brown Khaki and olive drab. It will stick to plastic w/o primer and because there is a primer in it you canuse acrylic/water based paints over it. You can do a massive drybrush by spraying the pain into a cup or something and using a grout sponge like you would tv drybrush. You should wait at least 15-20 mins between cots. Also remember to seal it when your done, touch. Ups will look horrible. Most important have fun painting and playing on the board. I wishi had one.

I'm probably just being lazy with my semantics. I've been using Liquitex paints for close to 20 years now and I'm quite familiar with the differences between that and tempera paints. Point taken. We (my family) just tends to use Liquitex/Delta type paints for arts and crafts for the kids, so that's my association.

I've had pretty good results with the camo paints too, so that will be my base. Then I have to experiment around with what works best for the highlight layer and how to fill in some of the skull pits.

BTW, 1-2 hours doesn't necessarily mean a rush job. If you figure 15 minutes to spray, 30 minutes to highlight with a roller/sponge, and an hour with a tank brush to basecoat/highlight the slate and edges of the hill, that takes care of most of the base colors and leaves ample time to flock, fill in the skull puts, and take care of other details.

get some spray cans! it work wonders!
it takes some practice but hey, dosen't all in this world?
//J

Ifurita wrote:Here's the link to Panic's article

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/224216.page

I have a small (3") roller that I may try out over a Camo Brown spray. I'll see how that works.

Thank you!