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i have trouple gluing (super glue,lol green stuff isnt so great either) metal model's parts together as well keeping the paint job scraping off it. any ideas? also it would be interesting to know what is the melting tempenture of GW's metal minis (kelvins or celsius please)?

If you're thinking of trying to solder them together, think again. Even if you have a temperature controlled soldering station.

White metal will begin to melt, then the rest will sublimate very shortly after (less than a second), slumping into a molten blob. It doesn't melt slowly like ice.

...

Actually... no. I'm thinking of using some other metal which has lower melting tempenture than the mini itself so mini isnt getting melted here only other metal which is working like glue i.e. mini melts in 300 kelvins and the bonding metal in 250 so mini stays unharmed.

well, you should wash the metal minis first, as they have a solution that prevents the glue from sticking to them. you could also pin them in place, and to prevent paint from scraping off, spray them with a dull lacquer. so you get a coating for protection and they dont shine.

Like solder wire? It usually has a high lead content and melts at a low temperature, so soldering iron is the tool to use. A solering iron won't be hot enough to melt white metal which is mostly tin and maybe some bismuth in GW figures. The solder wire melts and you can bond metal parts together with the hot liquid metal. Older GW and other figures containing lead will melt with application of a soldering iron.

Personally this method is only any good for making really solid bonds in large heavy metal models. It's really not worth the effort otherwise, I'd review your supergluing technique first, what problems do you have there?

Dipping the models in wood varnish is the ultimate chip protection but it also makes them shiny so its better for Nid or maybe Necron players. If your neither of those then you can use something slightly less effective like good old Matte sealer. I redo my coats of sealer every few months depending on how often I throw the models in and out of the box . Also look at how you store the models, the simplest way is to get those bead organizer boxes at a craft store because they have slots that are the perfect size for infantry models. Then if you try to store 2 models in each cell take some of that foam from the blister packs and cut it down to size to fit in the cell and separate the 2 models from each other (2 or more models clashing together is probably why most models get chips). If your not a cheapass though you can buy one of theose like 100-150ish $ foam model carriers which are really nice. Don't forget battlefoam is coming out with that new bag in april.

wait i have a similair problem about models im trying to build 2 kanz and they dont stick i eventually used a hot glue gun to bring them together (not pretty) and they wouldnt super glue together? do i just wash the pieces

they're not primed

To avoid the paint chipping you'll have to wash the models before base-coating them, I use some dish-washing detergent in water.

Apart from that you can base coat them with a spray-paint, it sticks a little bit better to the metal than normal paint with a paintbrush.

Try using the GW-superglue, its really gets the job done. Be careful though that you glue metal on metal and not paint on paint as it will not support the weight and will chip off. (I paint my minis first and glue them together afterwards)

Check the Articles for advice on model making and painting.

I actually sodered my friends greater deamon. Those damn wings needed it. I dont feel like it was that bad at all.

I can understand this poster's frustration.

I've been using Gorilla Super-Glue on a few metal models and so far they seem to be holding together, but I haven't used them a lot since then.
I've also just glued something with Zap-a-Gap last night, but I wasn't sure if I got enough of the previous glue and primer off (because one of the arms came off pretty easily afterwards.

So I would like to ask, what is a good method for chipping off old primer or removing glue from previously glued models?
??

i was having issues with different types of super glue.
on advice from a friend, i switched to "Krazy Glue".
i don't know if it's available outside the U.S., though.

GH057 wrote:
Try using the GW-superglue, its really gets the job done. Be careful though that you glue metal on metal and not paint on paint as it will not support the weight and will chip off. (I paint my minis first and glue them together afterwards)

I'm using GW glue but it just doesn't work. I'v tried these thing wiith GW super glue:
1. using a ton of glue on filed joint (to make it have more surface area)
2. using a small amount of glue
3. also i have pinned the joints

only green stuff seems to handle an 4 inch fall (no more) to hard table while super glued parts only (rarely) survive with the help of the chaos gods.

I like to basecoat my models byhand especially metal ones which might be my problem with paint chipping off because i'v used to use this no good GW crap. But i have started move to valejo paints which seem to handle better battledamage even a full meter falls and dragging on sandpaper.

illuknisaa wrote:
only green stuff seems to handle an 4 inch fall (no more) to hard table while super glued parts only (rarely) survive with the help of the chaos gods.

I like to basecoat my models byhand especially metal ones which might be my problem with paint chipping off because i'v used to use this no good GW crap. But i have started move to valejo paints which seem to handle better battledamage even a full meter falls and dragging on sandpaper.

Sounds like you need to be more cautious with the handling of your models. 4 inch and 1 meter falls? Dragging on sandpaper? There's no pinning or gluing method or material that is designed to resist that kind of abuse. Same with paints. The GW paints aren't crap compared to the Vallejo, you're abusing them in a way that was never intended. In the IT world, we refer to this as user error, specifically a PICNIC (Problem In Chair Not In Computer) error.

For bigger pieces, such as greater daemon wings, five minute epoxy is best. It takes some practice to get the exact mix, and to get the timing down but once it's in place, they're not going anywhere.

If you haven't varnished after you're done painting, you should. It will help a lot.

What I, and many others do, is hit the model with a coat of gloss varnish first (it is supposed to protect better), and then after that is dry, hit it with a coat of matte varnish to kill the shine.

That ought to protect your paint jobs nicely from regular wear and tear.

Peredyne wrote:

illuknisaa wrote:
only green stuff seems to handle an 4 inch fall (no more) to hard table while super glued parts only (rarely) survive with the help of the chaos gods.

I like to basecoat my models byhand especially metal ones which might be my problem with paint chipping off because i'v used to use this no good GW crap. But i have started move to valejo paints which seem to handle better battledamage even a full meter falls and dragging on sandpaper.

Sounds like you need to be more cautious with the handling of your models. 4 inch and 1 meter falls? Dragging on sandpaper? There's no pinning or gluing method or material that is designed to resist that kind of abuse. Same with paints. The GW paints aren't crap compared to the Vallejo, you're abusing them in a way that was never intended. In the IT world, we refer to this as user error, specifically a PICNIC (Problem In Chair Not In Computer) error.

Yes there is, and its platic. All my plastic models seem to handle themselves easily in the battlefields and I have this syndroma called littebrother which tends to make my minis to go suicidal from the edge of the table.

I just wish these were floortop games instead of tabletop games...

I only use GW glue, paint, and primer and never have had a problem. When gluing together metal minis. I pin the model together and use GW superglue. Never had a problem but I don't drop my metal minis so I've never had a problem with that either.

It's easy
use some stage's
Like this:

1st-Wash it
2nd-Trimm it
3rd-Pin it
4th-Paint it
5th-Glue it

Option all is switch 5 and 4 in order.
Depends on accesability of the model for painting reasons.

I use standard hobby super glue, don't really like GW stuff for that.
And if the glue smells like hell it dry's fast

greetz typhoon

Something I have done that seems to work, is place a small drop of super glue on the model. Then place a small amount of green stuff on top of the glue, followed by another small drop of glue on top of the green stuff. When you attach the pieces, the green stuff not only will squish out to help fll gaps, but also provides enough of a bond to hold the metal bits together while the glue dries. If you don't use to much green stuff, it will leave gaps when you push the piece togethr, so you will have metal on metal contact as well as glue on green stuff contact. It seems to work, well enough that my Killa Kan survived my 2 1/2 year old knocking it off the shelf onto a hard wood floor. (side note, small children learn to climb, keep models away from places they can reach by climbing)The plastic model he knocked off beforehand that the kan landed on was not so lucky. (further side note. 2 1/2 year old move suprisingly fast, if they are in the same room as the models, they can climb up and knock them off in the time it takes you to dig through the couch cushions to find the phone he hid earlier. I think he has the fleet of foot special rule, and If I didn't know better, would think he hid the phone deliberately, but I digress)If excess green stuff oozes out, you can trim it with an exacto knife after it dries. Then I paint the model with black or grey primer. Then paint.