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I haven't painted any of my orks yet, but I fear because of a bit of sloppiness on my part (partially because the glue bottle i've been stuck with using at my friends house is crappy and is hard to control how much glue comes out) and a bit of just having difficulty modeling my orks in the right dynamic poses there are parts on (especially my warboss and nobs) where you can tell glue spilt on a little, or that I have tried filing it to look as normal as possible. Do you think this will affect how the finished model will look? After priming and carefully painting will one be able to tell? Another thing I guess I should keep in mind is that ork armor is often rusted and damaged anyway, and that ork skin is by no means perfect and smooth, so it should fit right in, but if it's going to inevitably look terrible... that would just suck.

It will probably look OK, if it's in the 'right' places.

Extra blobs of glue look fairly organic. They jump out from clean surfaces like Tau vehicles, but they can often be ignored on lumpy Orky bodies.

What kind of glue did you use?

Kilkrazy wrote:
What kind of glue did you use?

/nod.

I originally used super glue for everything, but if the models are plastic, skip it entirely and got for plastic glue. You need so little for a very strong bond, and you can wipe excess off with your finger and not have to worry about leaving blobs around.

I've been using my friends GW super glue (hard plastic with the evil suns emblem on it.) He had to cut off about a half an inch from the tip because it was getting clogged up. The main thing i'm concerned about is the flakiness on the warbosses armor plates (I added a lot of armored shoulder pads/black orc helmet with extended horns for extra bad-assness) should that look alright on the armor after it's primed and painted?

i actually used plastic glue on my soulgrinder to weather the surface. However be careful of any fingerprints - they stick out like a sore thumb. you can always file down any excess. if it's in a nook or cranny (tight space) super glue some wet & dry paper on to a sculpting tool (or similar), trim off the paper not stuck to the chosen implement & you get a micro-file!

You might be better off using a different applicator for the glue, I've had great experiences with using microbrushes for glue.
http://www.microbrush.com/
You can find them at most hobby/model shops.

I used to use GW glue a long time ago and personally I thought it SUCKED. Always would clog and after awhile the same problem, huge nozzle hole.

For plastic, simple testors model glue works AWESOME (the kind for model cars its oragne) Literally just a small dab and presto parts are stuck. That stuff actually kindda melts the plastics together. Also the tube is a metallic tube, and you can buy plastic detail nozzles for them. So if you have acrazy spill or a clog, just remove the plastic tip and toss it.

Onto your question, depends how bad and where really. With Orks youll have way more leeway then say a SM or like killkrazy said the tau. You will see it more if your a fan of dry brushing. But if you have a dremel you can make the big globs go away. just put on a small bit and lightly sand it away.

Never used the GW glues (other than what I got in a set).

Stupid bottles make application more difficult than it needs to be.

I use plastic cement from a model store for plastics - this is perfect as it is cheap and has a brush so you can be exact. Just a thin smear on both sides of what you're working on and it will go together great.

For superglue, I use $2 store superglue (8 x 3ml tubes) - if one clogs, I just pull out another. If I want to work on a bond that needs to be very strong, I have gap filling superglue as well from the modeling store - more expensive but fit for purpose.

The superglue should scrape off the surface of the model OK with a hobby knife.

Cheers