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Made in de
Fresh-Faced New User




Hello,

has anyone experience in dipping cadian soldiers or BloodRaven-Spacemarines?
I mean with the FAP, not the GW-washes...


Regards for your hints
   
Made in us
Stone Bonkers Fabricator General






A garden grove on Citadel Station

In general dipping works better on organic models like orks, kroot, or tyranids, and worse on armored models. It has been done for IG and SM though, and looks okay. I personally have not dipped either.
EDIT: Though I have dipped tyranids.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2009/04/24 10:41:04


ph34r's Forgeworld Phobos blog, current WIP: Iron Warriors and Skaven Tau
+From Iron Cometh Strength+ +From Strength Cometh Will+ +From Will Cometh Faith+ +From Faith Cometh Honor+ +From Honor Cometh Iron+
The Polito form is dead, insect. Are you afraid? What is it you fear? The end of your trivial existence?
When the history of my glory is written, your species shall only be a footnote to my magnificence.
 
   
Made in de
Fresh-Faced New User




I have searched the web for examples but didn't find some...
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Dankhold Troggoth






Shadeglass Maze

Here's a "Dipping Tyranids" article on Dakka by Mezmaron:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dipping_Tyranids

Also the article discussion page where he answers some questions about it:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/212595.page

I know it's not SM, but maybe the way he did the carapace parts will help? He definitely said he would paint on the dip for the larger models, rather than attempting to spin it off (I believe he tried both methods) so this might be true for marines, too.
   
Made in us
Horrific Horror






I've dipped 3k points of Tyranids, and I can tell you that hands down you're better off just using the new GW washes for non-organic models. It will go the exact same speed as dipping with wood finish except it'll look 10 times better in the end. You still have to do the exact same amount of hand painting either way.

If that upsets your fluff stomach, buy a case of "it's just a game"-bizmo and get over it.
-Mahu

Men are like steel. When they lose their temper, they lose their worth.
-Chuck Norris  
   
Made in us
Jinking Ravenwing Land Speeder Pilot





San Diego, CA USA



I've used Army Painter quick shade on SM, but no finished pix. The link below has a couple examples, terminator and dread.

http://www.thearmypainter.com/gallery_presentation.php?GalleryId=21

 
   
Made in gb
Rotting Sorcerer of Nurgle





Portsmouth UK

used a water-based wood stain for my Death Guard -
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/213887.page
(well the troopers & termies only). I used 'medium oak' quick-drying satin-finish.
Just popped them in (using a pair of pliers to grip the base) them let the excess drip off (I've heard of people blu-tacking minis to variable-speed drills to speed this up, but I wasn't going to try it on brittle resin!).
Leave them over night to dry.
You may have to brush off excess that collect in recesses or on droopy bits.

Check out my gallery here
Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!! 
   
 
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