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What's the trick to getting the circular crimson fists transfers to stick to the rounded space marine shoulder pads?

I've tried putting 'ardcoat on the pads prior to putting the transfers on, and though this seems to help the bottom and sides adhere to the shoulders, the top remains impossible to press down and get to stick!

Are there any tricks you dakka dakka faithful may have to make my life easier (and better looking)?

Two products.

Micro-Sol and Micro-set.

Decal solvents and setting agents. Come in little jars.
Get from your friendly local specialist model store.

How do you use those products? Do you apply them on the surface where you're going to be applying the transfer or do you apply them over the transfer or both?

Now I am going to have to find a store that sells them around here. Shucks.

You apply it sparingly to the decal once positioned (micro-sol softens it and lets it conform to the compound curve). Micro-set helps blend in the edges afterwards (although I've usually just gloss varnished then just matt varnished and it evened it out fine.

It is tricky to get right, but if "serious" scale modellers have been using it for years, it can't be a bad product (these are the people who have to have the look of the model exact).

It can't be any trickier than the current process. I resorted to using glue on the last one I did. It turned out fairly well, but had some tiny wrinkles that I can't help but stare at.

Three steps:

1) Glosscote the area receiving the decal

2) Like chromedog says, decal solvent/setting solution works wonders. (I use Solvaset, myself) Don’t be alarmed when the decal wrinkles, it will straighten out when it dries. It will be brittle once applied, so be careful.

3) Dullcode the area afterwards.

Doing this will avoid the “silvering” affect from air being trapped under the decal. They’ll look like they were painted on.

ZF-

What I used for mine was plain old white vinegar. Apply some to the spot where you want the transfer, apply the decal, and then apply a little more vinegar to help move the decal into the exact location, and let sit until dry. It helps if you cut tiny slits into the transfer before you soak so that when you apply it conforms better to the round surface.

Does the white vinegar have similar properties to the solvent? I'd certainly try that prior to searching out the solvent (which I am thinking is going to be difficult for me to find).

Some of the stuff I've used in the past had a vinegar smell, so it's probably a good setting medium.

The solvents loosen up the decal a bit to handle the funky curves it might be on. SM shoulder pads are rather funny, but unless the decal is really huge, the solvents work well with it.

ZF-

I use MicroSol and MicroSet as well, and can definately second both the recommendation for those and the cutting tiny slits tip. Especially in the top part of marine shoulder transfers.

I've heard vinegar can work as a substitute before, but haven't tried it. Do tell how things work out for you.

The vinegar was a tip that I found (I think in the Dakka articles), the poster said that he/she tried it and it worked. I have no complaints about it so far. I'm not sure how expensive the solvents are, but I couldn't find any around where I live prior to using the vinegar.

I don't recall solvents costing that much. My bottle has lasted 10 years now. I don't think I paid much more than $5.00 for it. I've used it with a boatload of kits.

ZF-

I had a whole load of bespoke transfers made up by a Griffon Games back in 2007 and bought the MicroSol and MicroSet from them at the same time...cost very little, even with shipping to the UK. I don't think they make bespoke decals anymore though which is a shame.

An old time tip I have used in the past is the application of heat. Basically position your transfer where you want it using water then get a moist wad of kitchen paper and physically hold it aginst a lightbulb till it starts getting hot (obviously being careful not to burn yourself). Once the paper towel is hot press againt the transfer and wait a few moments for it to cool then remove. You should find the tranfer nicely adhered to the surface without creases because the heat actually causes it to conform to the surface and shrink very slightly into place.