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I was wondering plasticard(or "sheet styrene" as I think it is called)is it more like hardish plastice of polystyrene?


Sorry for such a noobish question but I have never really been a converter but wanted to get into doing little conversions on my minis.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Its more plastic than anything else, its fairly solid (depending on thickness) and the thinner types can bend slightly (however, it may snap)

Thanks,do most hardware stores stock it?

Quite alot should do.
if not any model shops may do, the shops that sell train kits will do, or ebay.

Thanks I will go check at my local hardware stores and we have a hobby shop near by that basically only sells trains so I will check it out.

Two 'names' or brands to look out for are EVERGREEN and PLASTRUCT (they are the big names in scale model sheet styrene (& rod/tube) products ).

Thanks I will be sure to ask the guy at my local hardware store if he can stop scratching himself long enough to check for me.Thanks for the "names" by the way,I am sure it will make my task of explaining to the monkeys at the store easier.

If you go to Plastructs website you can download their catalogue for free in pdf format (or if that doesn't work just email them and ask them to attach it to their reply, which is what I did). You can then ask for particular bits by code number and take the guess work out of ordering your plasticard (you may even find it cheaper ordering direct from Plastruct).

Here's the catalogue site link. http://www.plastruct.com/Pages/Catalog.html

Thanks for the link Cypher.

You can also order it online.

Online I found it listed as Sheet Styrene.

I've never seen it at a hardware store, btw.

Also, if you're checking at a hardware store they might not recognize evergreen or plastruct, as those are more commonly hobby supplies. But most "Beware of Dog" or "House for Sale" signs (sold at just about every hardware store, ever) are sheet styrene. It's the same material, just with some printing on one side. Just pick a few of different thickness and get to it!

How tough is it?

Gale Force 9 also make these starter type packs of the stuff too that most hobby shops can get hold of easier than evergreen or plastruct. Just a thought.

Thanks will rember that.

How tough is "sheet styrene" ?

Deff Dread red Edition wrote:Thanks for the link Cypher.

A pleasure.

Deff Dread red Edition wrote:Thanks will rember that.

How tough is "sheet styrene" ?

It depends on the thickness really. You can get it as thin as regular A4 paper (0.3mm) which is very flimsy and flexible and as thick as 3.2mm which is very solid and stable and made even more so when you start constructing three dimensional objects from it. Of course, if you want it thicker, just glue several thicknesses together...it bonds brilliantly to itself and most other styrene type plastics using liquid polystyrene cement.

Deff Dread red Edition, ask people how you cut the stuff...

I'd ask, but I don't want to hijack your thread...

djphranq wrote:Deff Dread red Edition, ask people how you cut the stuff...

I'd ask, but I don't want to hijack your thread...

Depends on the thickness.

You can cut through the really thin stuff easily with an Xacto or similar razor type knife. You can do the same with thicker stuff but it will take multiple passes over the same cut line. When i'm cutting simple shapes (squares/rectangles) I score the plasticard and then snap it. Works well.

Deff Dread red Edition wrote:Thanks will rember that.

How tough is "sheet styrene" ?

What are you trying to do?

It wont break if you get an appropriate thickness.

I am just trying to add maybe a bit of extra armour to some of my stuff.

Oh and "djphranq" thanks for bringing up my next question also thanks "lagduf" for answering it.

Be VERY careful when using an x-acto knife (or any other open blade style of tool) to cut your plasticard. The surface is HIGHLY slick and your knife/scalpel will skid way out of control if you're trying to cut too fast or using too much pressure.

I don't need to tell you the potential danger inherent in this...

I would also strongly recommend getting and using a cork-backed metal ruler if you don't already have one. If your straight edge slips while you're cutting with a sharp x-acto... well... let's just hope you were making something RED.


I have a hell of a time trying to cut curves. Whether they are full circles, gradual arcs, or winding esses, my knife wants to slide all over the damned place and I can almost never get a nice, clean line.

Any tips or suggestions?



Ghidorah

I score, never cut all the way through. Preferring the score, snap and sand back method to get the lines I need . I've been doing it this way since I found out about the method (some 20 something years ago). ALL of the pro-modelmakers I used to work with used this method as well.

Thinner stuff (under 0.5mm, you can generally cut through on one pass, though). Thinnest I've used is 0.25mm (010 in Evergreen language). Thickest is 3mm, but I used a bandsaw to cut it.

I have built structures out of 1mm sheet that I've stood on and didn't crush (I weigh 90kg) thanks to the internal bracing structure. It's certainly strong enough for most jobs.

Where do you live Chromie? I wanna send you a christmas card.

First the answers about the rubber molds, now the plasticard. You're the man! (unless, of course, you're a woman...)


Ghidorah

Oh, I'm a man, alright (just ask the wife).

If you're serious about the chrimbo card, I'll pm my address.

My seriously professional modelmaking mates work in special effects. Some have worked on SW ep1-3, some worked on Farscape, some worked on various other aussie SF projects over the years. I have a nice group of friends to learn stuff from.

Thanks Chrome and Ghidorah for the tips.