Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Has anyone here toyed with making a jump pack conversion for a CSM sorcerer?

All the CSM models with jump packs are metal so my only real choices are to try and completely sculpt one (which I really don't want to do),
or cut one off of a raptor (which would also be a pain and cost me about 27 dollars for the two raptor models).

The raptor packs look so cool, but I'd be willing to maybe try something with the regular SM jump pack, but I need some insperation.

Depending on your army fluff, there's nothing wrong with a Chaos marine simply looting a loyalist jump pack as a 'working trophy'. Or perhaps he's an ex-loyal Librarian recently seduced to the Dark Side and so still carrying much of his old gear (perhaps defaced with chaotic icons)?

Or chaosising the loyalist plastic jump pack shouldn't be too hard - the obvious choice wold be to somehow change the input vents to daemonic beast heads of some kind (e.g. from the Chaos accessort sprue).

No pics, sorry, I've made some looted ork jump packs from the loyalist plastic jump pack, but they look a little too orky for Chaos...

Why not have him riding a pillar of flame or something? He's a sorcerer after all!

I like the idea of having him w/o a pack actually. Depending on your sculpting skills you could even do lightening. Fire might overpower the rest of the model.

Wait... Lightening would be SICK!!! DO THAT!

Hmmm... another project to try at some point. My friend has some chaos that I may attain at some point, sweet....


Ok mini tutorial, take it or leave it.

Supplies=
-Paper clips or high gauge wire for lightening "armature".
-Brown stuff to get those nice sharp edges on the lightening. Responds to sanding, filing, and drilling really well; it also has a longer sculpt time I believe.
(Milliput can be used, but Brown stuff is cheaper and most likely better in every way; you can even mix your GS with the BS to get your preferred medium. Lots of people mix GS and milliput because milliput is water reactive and you can take full advantage of it when sculpting; as an added bonus it can be sculpted for at least twice as long as GS by itself.)
-If I am not mistaken that is all you will need besides paint and some assorted sculpting tools (get color shapers if you don't have them, they are perfect for working with all epoxy putties; non-stick is the main reason, second reason is the fantastic range of flexibility and tips you can get.)

Directions=
-Bend the wire into assorted lightening shapes, and make way more than you could need so you can mix and match for the best effect.
-Take your assembled (but unpainted) mini, and use some putty to attach your bent wire onto the model, using something to keep them in the right shape. When the putty dries (1-4 hours) attach the wire to your base using a bit more putty.
-Let the mini sit overnight to ensure it has completely cured before working further.
-Start to add your preferred Kneadatite and/or mix to the wire armature, taking care to apply a thin coat each time. Allowing the layers to cure for at least 10 minutes before adding the next layer is advisable. At any point you want you can add further wire to split the lightening as it hits the base; smaller gauged wire can be used to form electric "spurs" along the lightening itself. Coat the spurs very lightly with B/G kneadatite ONLY, anything else wont have the flexibility to stay intact when the model has an accident (it happens to everyone, just try to be careful).
-Once the putty has dried for at least 4 hours you can start to file edges into the lightening. Cubist lightening looks really cool, and will be your best bet at making the model look good. Cubist lightening is... well it is basically "high-end" graffiti, and 3-d graffiti is super-dope to the max. I would keep your shapes simple (cubist) yet elegant, like a lot of the professional graf. artists you see today.

I will make a full tutorial out of this at some point.

The lightning idea has really got me thinking.

I'm picturing the lightning guy from "Big Trouble in Little China" ascending in the sky.

Yes indeed. Like Raiden or something like that. Who wouldn't want to be able to have lightening powers, way too cool to pass up.

Hmmm... where did I put my radiated milk?

Omg all I thought of when you brought up using lightning for this was... Metallica - Ride The Lightning... i really like the lightning idea tho... try it and post pics!