Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I was doing this for my army and decided to take WIP pics. I'm reading my instructions in the video so I sound weird. I would have left too many details out if I "winged it" like usual. Sculptors may laugh at my attempt but I suck at sculpting so this was my process

And yes I'm casting these for duplication because I made the piece ha!

HAHAHA...wait that is really good.

Great video LB, I appreciate it.

Yeah I'm working on making armor plates for the LR using the same technique.

What happened,why is Marneus not approving this message?

LOL.

Anyway,nice tutorial as always les.

Would polymer clay be available in DIY shops or just arts n craft stores? because this looks very interesting as I'm just painting a land raider
great video as always and I'm highly participating in the next one !

I got the clay at a craft store. Sculpey, Primo, Fimo are just a couple of the names.

Like it ... to bad i will have to buy the clay of ebay or something becosue i have looked in every effing store in town without finding any of the brands you have named...

Oh well , lie and let lie ... or whas that live ?

To minimize the problem you had with it sticking and needing to be pried up, theres two solutions to that might help.

The easiest would be to do it on a pieces of aluminium foil, it should peel right off after bakin and is oven safe

The other would be to dust the work surface with talcum powder or something similar to prevent it from sticcking (just like using flour to keep dough from sticking to the counter).

Either of those should help keep your symbols intact

Well you want it to stick, just to a surface you can put in the oven. Most of the cutting on it was done like a saw and if the clay did not stick to the paper it would have distorted the design greatly. 275 F didn't even brown the paper so it's not a problem. And once baked the clay will easily come off the bottom paper.

very nice...i intend on giving this a try.

have you considered partially cooking the sculpy ? maybe to firm it up a bit before cutting ?

Yeah I thought of that but I think my blades would be crying after 1 piece and the tips would more than likely break off. For me anyway

For things that break the tips off your #11's, you might want to try a #10(think thats the number) its the curved blade.

I like em alot-being able to roll the blade to make cuts seems to save alot of tip breakage

I got surgical blades now mmmm carbon steel. No more brakey heh.

I used a number 10 (the curved blade ) to carve manzanita and it never broke or bent, and it hardly dulled past a standard knives sharpness. Pretty amazing actually, manzanita is one of the hardest woods in the world.

Be careful if you do use it though, the curve tip slips quite easily.

Wow that is an amazing idea.

Good job, I'm going to try this with Salamander Shoulder pads.