tekken wrote:Questions :
2. I read that there not to good for dry brushing , why is that , what is the reason ?
The acrylic medium that Tamiya uses (some form of alcohol) causes the paint to clump up and dry too quicky to be used during drybrushing. If you try it, you'll get sticky globs of half-dried paint, rather than a light "powder" common with
GW acrylics.
3. If i used water to thin tamiya paint and use for drybrush is that fine? ( i was reading you dont use water becuase its harder to clean when airbrushing but im going to use for drybursh ).
Since alcohol and water are soluable, you can thin Tamiya paints with water, but I doubt this would make drybrushing much better. Never tried it, but I doubt the results would be satisfactory.
4. What are the life expectancy of GW , citadel , vellajo paint if you take care of them extremely well?
Years if kept well-sealed and opened sparingly. They will get a little thick, but you can add water to bring them back to life.
5. If you were to paint the same model with GW , citadel , vallejo and tamiya paint and lined them up could you tell which one was used by which brand?
There is almost no difference of the finished product. As an example, I could easily paint something in Tamiya Gunmetal Grey, and you'd never know the difference between it and Citadel Colour Boltgun Metal. I could be argued that the thinner Tamiya would take two coats where the
GW brand might cover in one coat, but
IMO, two thin coats are the way to go no matter what brand.
The real issue I've had with Tamiya paints is that you have to be real careful with brush strokes. As it's applied, the alcohol medium drys relatively quickly and creates a very thin skin over the wet paint. If you go back and paint over the same area again before the paint has had an opportunity to harden a bit, you will pull this skin along with your bristles and create a clumpy mess that is difficult to fix without spot sanding the area and reapplying primer and paint again. I can't give you a hard and fast drying time, since this will vary greatly by the environment you paint in. Once you've worked with it a bit, you'll start to get a feel for when it's safe to go back over again.
6. I see alot of different brand water base acrylic paints around town and was wondering would they be ok to use ?
People will disagree with me on this, but I think using craft paints (e.g., Delta Ceramcoat, Apple Barrel, Americana, etc.) is a poor substitute for hobby paints. There is a distinct difference in the depth of color between a craft paint and a similiar hobby shade, and this may be due to either inferior pigment or a lesser amount of pigment. But, when in doubt, try it for yourself. Find a cheap craft paint color that approximates a
GW/Vallejo color and judge for yourself.
That being said, craft paints are excellent for terrain projects. The price point and larger containers are guilt-free.
7. Oil base acrylics are fine right?
I don't think these are worth the hassle for the type of painting we do in tabletop wargaming. There are plenty of water-based acrylics that are easier to work with and don't require seprate thinners to clean your brush and thin your paint.
8. If i was going to use random arts acrylic paint as an undercoat and then used either GW, tamiya , cit and vallejo is that ok? its not going to strip the other paint layer or somthing like that?
You can use an acrylics artist gesso as an undercoat if you'd like. There is even a recent thread about it
here on Dakka. I have painted Tamiya alcohol-based acrylics with
GW and Vallejo water-based acrylics for years with no problems. I have no experience mixing oil- and water-based acrylic paints on the same miniature, though, just from the sound of it (oil and water), it doesn't sound like a good idea...
9. GW , Citadel and vallajo can also be used for airbrushing?
Yes. Vallejo even makes a line of paints specifically for airbrushing now.
thanks
You're welcome!