Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Ok so i drybrush primed my SM - the paint mixture was just a little thicker than milk consistancy but i painted 2 layers . thats ok right? or is the model suppose to be all white?

If it's an undercoat you are doing you would be better off using a spay to be honest than a brush, you will get a better consistency and better coverage

yeah drybrush primed my SM , im going to airbrush undercoat , after drybrushing i was convinced that when i see the pro minis painted they must have AB the lyers on as its so smooth and theres no way that could have been done using a brush

tekken wrote:yeah drybrush primed my SM , im going to airbrush undercoat , after drybrushing i was convinced that when i see the pro minis painted they must have AB the lyers on as its so smooth and theres no way that could have been done using a brush

Try to get some Skull White primer at the local hobbyshop. It works MUCH better.

Just going to use AB in future using skull white , it gives such a smoother surface and consistancy , just need to find colour schemes ,

tekken wrote:Just going to use AB in future using skull white , it gives such a smoother surface and consistancy , just need to find colour schemes ,

If you already have an Airbrush that might be an idea, but you can buy cans of Skull White or Chaos Black paint from most hobby stores and just use those instead.

Avoid brush priming without an actual brush primer. Use Krylon spray can primer white. Its automotive but 1,000,000% better than the overpriced crap GW puts out. Citadel skull white is NOT primer, it's skull white satin paint. Krylon White satin is the same thing for less than $3 at Walmart.

Use an auto primer like I mentioned (Duplicolor and Rustoleum are alternatives though generally $3-4/can) and do the first coat as just a spot coat....it should appear rough and be kinda transparent; give it 10 mins to set up and then do a second and or 3rd coat (black generally does it in 2, white takes 3). You don't want any pewter showing through the primer (especially white as white generally covers poor and yellow will look green if it hits the pewter/grey plastic on its own).

After the last layer of primer is dry dry (if it peels up when touched with your finger (best to use a latex glove so you dont leave oil on the surface) its still too wet. You should be able to pick it up and not leave any primer on your glove. If it comes off clean its ready for paint.

It sounds complicated and time consuming but if you are going to spend hours/days on a model taking an extra 15-20 minutes to prime it right will save hours of work later on.

Acrylics hate an oily, greasy surface, especially airbrush layers as they are generally as thin as crepe` paper and will "fisheye" and run so easily.

Fateweaver wrote:Avoid brush priming without an actual brush primer. Use Krylon spray can primer white. Its automotive but 1,000,000% better than the overpriced crap GW puts out. Citadel skull white is NOT primer, it's skull white satin paint. Krylon White satin is the same thing for less than $3 at Walmart.

Use an auto primer like I mentioned (Duplicolor and Rustoleum are alternatives though generally $3-4/can) and do the first coat as just a spot coat....it should appear rough and be kinda transparent; give it 10 mins to set up and then do a second and or 3rd coat (black generally does it in 2, white takes 3). You don't want any pewter showing through the primer (especially white as white generally covers poor and yellow will look green if it hits the pewter/grey plastic on its own).

After the last layer of primer is dry dry (if it peels up when touched with your finger (best to use a latex glove so you dont leave oil on the surface) its still too wet. You should be able to pick it up and not leave any primer on your glove. If it comes off clean its ready for paint.

It sounds complicated and time consuming but if you are going to spend hours/days on a model taking an extra 15-20 minutes to prime it right will save hours of work later on.

Acrylics hate an oily, greasy surface, especially airbrush layers as they are generally as thin as crepe` paper and will "fisheye" and run so easily.

ah crap its to late now :( ive got a bottle of "british crafts" preparation paint going to try that as a primer on my gakky gundams if that works ok im going to use that as primer