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They ever get strong enough to rip the magnet from your glue?

malfred wrote:They ever get strong enough to rip the magnet from your glue?

Dont think so , glue have lots of pulling strength.

The ones i use detach themselves from super glue rather regularely. I dont know the brand name, i just bought them from a hobby store and they were in a little plastic bag. Strong as hell though.

Yeah i get glue failures i think one in every 20 figs i find the mag has ripped itself out of the crazy glue...strong little suckers.
I hit it with Zap a gap or some other hobby crazy glue and zip kick it solid before putting another magnet or metal near it.

I thought zip kick accelerated the join but made it inherently weaker?

When you move up in strength with magnets, you should also move up in strength in adhesives. Of course, as you move up in strength of magnet and adhesive, your model might become the weak link. A plan for safe detachment becomes necessary.

Is it always best to use double magnets? Why not just sink metal on the other point instead?

another solution to the problem can be a little bit of green stuff between the contacting surfaces. The distance between magnets vs. the pull strength forms an inverse square function (for you non-sciencey types, I mean a little distance change makes a big difference). This also avoids the issue of the two magnets spinning against each other as well (nobody like's a limp-barrelled crisis suit!)

Malfred wrote:Is it always best to use double magnets? Why not just sink metal on the other point instead?

well, you'd need to find a magnetic metal to use, which our "metal" models sadly are not. Besides, with the small amount of material opposite the magnet, you'd likely get very little pull strength anyway.

Frequently with 3x1mm NeFeBo magnets.

Especially if they were glued in with superglue. Superglue really only has a lot of strength in one direction, and very little in the others.

I have to fix up my clubmates attempts at magnetising their models - cleaning out the sockets, reseating the magnets and adding a lip around the top of the magnet so that it doesn't pull out.

malfred wrote:I thought zip kick accelerated the join but made it inherently weaker?

It does - Zip Kicker catalyses the curing process but makes the bond more brittle and especially more prone to shear from torsion stress (not that superglue is particularly great at that anyway - never twist your magnets to pull them apart).

Your best bet is to use a five-minute epoxy such as Araldite, and try to seat your magnets as snugly as possible.

malfred wrote:Is it always best to use double magnets? Why not just sink metal on the other point instead?

Depends on the model usually. My Dreadnought has magnets running right through the body making either arm different polarity. The magnets also hold properly without the need of glue on any of them, including the arm ones.

You should probably test the magnets before doubling them. I've also heard that using Green Stuff to attach them works well. The Green Stuff basically covers the magnet and that seems to hold well.

I've never had problems with magnets popping off after gluing. However, on models with multiple magnets, like on doors, I have had problem getting a second magnet to stay in place while the glue dries.

Well, I didn't mean to glue the model to the metal model itself, but rather, to glue
some piece of metal to the opposite join, like flex steel.

Thanks for all the input so far!