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Ive been asked for a Tute on how I do my boyz up; so......

Hungry Fella??? There ya go!!


Here's what we are shooting for:




MATERIALS:

da boy (assembled, deflashed, stoopid hair cut off)
sand and shaker (shaker is a container w/ holes in the top to block bigger grains - gives a more uniform base)
Paint (I will detail all colors I use)
Brushes (I use a 3/0, a bad brush *ink/wash application* and a drybrush)
Mixer (cheap plastic bristle brush)
Palette (0.89 us *walmart*)
Water jar
Mini stand *I use a variety of things, but a shotglass and some poster tack is the bomb*
Syrenge (for dispensing measured amounts of paint/ink/wash/h2o)
Daylight mimic-ing lamp *I cannot stress enough the importance of this one!!!!!*




Basing and undercoating:

After assembly/flash removal; apply a coat of 1:1 water/whiteglue to the area to be covered.


Use your shaker or dip the model in the desired basing product to cover the glue. Let dry for at least 4 hours!!!



You may have "overhangs" once dry. Some people like that *adds character to the base*; but If you want it gone, use your blade to remove it *like removing flash*



Now you need to prime your mini. This allows your paint to stick and provides shadow. I use white and black primer, and have heard arguments for and against both...... For this tute I will be using Krylon Black Primer. Spray your mini from about 6 inches away being sure to use a light coat. Dont worry if it comes out speckled, you can always hit it again after it drys. The important part is to not go heavy and obscure any details!!!




Now your mini is ready to start painting!!


----------------------------------

Okay, here goes with part 2.

these are the paints I used... *I mostly use Apple Barrel paint (give it a try) but I'm sure you can easily find other brands colors also (they wont be included here)*



listed in order of appearence from yellow *not used* counter-clockwise...

LBursley's thin black wash
AB Crimson
AB Plum Kiss
AB Antique White
AB Golden Brown
GW Dark Angel Green
AB Parakeet Green
AB Kiwi Green
LBursley's thin flesh wash
++++ not on palette +++++
GW Dark Green Ink
Gw Flesh Wash



Base coating Skin:

First use the Dark Angels Green (mixed w/ water to consistancy of milk) *if you do this to ALL of your paint it will cover areas without "gumming up" or looking bad* to cover all skin areas. this will dry very dark, but will be visable to the eye. this gives your mini a good dark base color:




Establishing tone:

Next, drybrush parakeet green over the skin. (dry brushing is dipping your bristles *of a DRY BRUSH* in the paint then swiping it off on a towel until little to nothing shows, then quickly stroking it back and forth over raised detail)



Now using the GW's Dark Green ink, *FYI: inks take alot longer than paint to dry* I cover the skin again. While that is drying it cover the sand base with golden brown.



Now, after ink has dried.... I dry brush the mini parakeet two more times, kiwi once and ink the base w/ GW's Flesh wash




Highlight and Hardlining:

Using Kiwi I put a dot on the high points of the muscle, and using a clean brush spread it out to blend it in. With my 3/0 I use KIWI to paint thin lines on all lighted areas of the face (ie. brow ridge, ears, nose ridge)
I then drybrushed the base golden brown.



OK fellaz, heres how I do the tongue and teeth:

First I carefully paint the tongue AB's Plum Kiss, then I use LBursley's thin black wash in the entire mouth.

For the teeth; I use AB's Antique white and then wash with LBursley's thin flesh wash.

Eyes:

A steady hand and my trusty 3/0 brush dot those suckers with AB's Crimson




clean up and put on some clothes..... filthy xenos



Ok, CLEAN-UP: from now on, when you see cleanup; it means using thinned black paint to "clean-up" any areas you may have painted outside. *clear as mud?*

heres orky dingo all cleaned up: *isnt it amazing what a little clean-up does?!!*




Now, paint 'em some duds!
First off, you must decide a cool color scheme. I chose the Geoff's black and white; but IMHO it's a little... well..... black and white. So I added red to the mix, and it really pops against the green! Any contrasting colors will work; but here's how I did mine.

First I decided what was going to be red on this guy. *I try to make every boy different, but after 200+ your going to find some that are REALLY close to the same... lol

here's an example...



I use AB's Crimson, watered down (2 coats), then add a drop of white to the mix to make pinkish color. This is highlighted on the high areas and hard edges as such:





Then I use an Ink of my own creation.... (look for an anouncement soon) to ink/wash over it all, this works to darken everything and yet leave smooth highlights. I call this...

"REVERSE HIGHLIGHTING" it does the blending for you....

after this... CLEAN-UP!!




now for the right stuff....... errr... the "white" stuff. *mind outta the gutter, sicko's*

Heres what I did with this boy and his brothers:



this part is super-tedious.... For white to look good, it has to be put on in thin coats *can never be stressed enough*. It should take at least 3 coats to completely cover black..... dont worry tho, by the time you do your third or fourth boy the first should be dry.....

CLEAN-UP

Metal Stuff, Dags, Checks

Ok fellas; here's the one everyone's been really interested in. How I do my checks and dags; But first, METAL!!!

Metals I try to make totally random.... I'll put all of my metallic paint in front of me and pick one at random, paint a few features on each model, and then rinse and repeat.

Heres the AB colors I mainly use:

metallic silver stearling, metallic copper, metallic antique copper, metallic aztec gold, metallic bright gold, battleship grey, light grey

I get the knives, buckles, plates, doo-dads, doo-dad hangers....
Drybrush the Guns

lookie:




Finally.... Dags and Checks
I use these awsome markers I got off Flea-bay for @ $9.00. The 005 cost me about $2.00 at Michaels; its the one I use for Infantry stuff.


Checks:
First draw your horizontal lines, then your vertical, trying to keep as straight as possible.




Next, Find the line you screwed up the most (expect it to happen, cause it will!) and fill that block in. Continue filling in checkerboard fashion, remembering to carry the pattern over angles and around corners.




Dags:
I find these easier to do. Start with some @60 degree lines equally spaced.....




Then, match them with 60 degree lines the opposite direction.... like so...

/ / / then /\ /\ /\





Now fillem in!!!!





Heres some pics to give you some Ideas:




Next: Washes and final touches!!!


this is the simplest part! I used LBursleys black wash on the metals (GW's or any other suppliers will do almost as well) and his flesh wash on teeth, claws, and white material (including checks and dags).

Here's the result!!




Now Ill do two coats of gloss and a coat of dull, then Robert's your mothers brother!

Thanks for hangin around to see this thru!!



Thanks to LBursley for the great sample paints! When I run out, I'm DEFINATLY buying some!!!

wow.... 300+ views and no comments? must be pretty explanitory then! :>

I would try posting the tutorial here instead of just the link.

Use the same format I have with my tips if you are looking to direct people to your blog as well. That way you get exposure for your site as well as share the information.

grey_death wrote:I would try posting the tutorial here instead of just the link.

Use the same format I have with my tips if you are looking to direct people to your blog as well. That way you get exposure for your site as well as share the information.

QFT

In addition , its not exactly a tutorial when half of your post ends in advertising for someone else's new washes
while you dont respond to a single question in your own threads on dakka.

LunaHound wrote:

grey_death wrote:I would try posting the tutorial here instead of just the link.

Use the same format I have with my tips if you are looking to direct people to your blog as well. That way you get exposure for your site as well as share the information.

QFT

In addition , its not exactly a tutorial when half of your post ends in advertising for someone else's new washes
while you dont respond to a single question in your own threads on dakka.

Hmmm..... looking back at my threads (not many) What Questions have not been answered?

I will put entire tute here; but only if I can use Photobucket *I dont have time to do multiple uploads of the same pics. Thats time better spent painting* Finally I'm giving LB props for his new stuff, which could be subbed for standard colors..... I suppose I'm advertising for Apple Barrel paints also? Wow, wish THEY would send me some free samples

Wow apple barrel have washes now too?

LH, there is nothing wrong with saying what company a certain paint type you used are from ^_-. I put direct links in many of my tips to any products I can find a page to buy it from.

grey_death wrote:LH, there is nothing wrong with saying what company a certain paint type you used are from ^_-. I put direct links in many of my tips to any products I can find a page to buy it from.

thanks for the tip!

Heres where you can get these AWSOME washes.

http://awesomepaintjob.com


And no, Apple Barrel dose not have washes *to my knowledge* but If they did, and they took time off my paiting and looked great, I'd be "hawking" them too!

Looks cool man

Its also good to see everyone trying appropriate and working alternatives to GW products (paints), instead of narrowmindedly wasting money on their highly priced goods haha

The edit / updated tutorial is nice.

i will be using this - nice. Some is stuff i already do, but def a new couple of steps to add.

THANKS !!!

(and thanks for posting here instead of just the link)\


I'll check out the weathering stuff too - got to support small businesses.

looking good man!javascript:emoticon('');

gregor_xenos wrote:wow.... 300+ views and no comments? must be pretty explanitory then! :>

CHEA MAN! Not getting comments is the awsome... lol I post updates on mah stuff without comments buts it actually helps me cause I start freaking that Im not doing good enough and now Im actually getting my dragon done... BOOOYA!

Apple Barrel is pretty cool. Not as good as GW, but I like them. I kinda use them exclusively... On the four models I have painted in this decade. LOL!
Rock On!

I really like the freehand method with the pen. I was just wondering if the pen inks runs prior to application or if it stays on the model just like paint? Before I get some I would like to know that they will work well.

Thanks and great tutorial!

Great tutorial.

Really nice!

I've never heard of apple barrel paints, (are they an american company?). But I like the look of them, and the names really suit the colours!

How do they compare to GW paints as far as texture and feel and fluidity are concerned?

lucas wrote:I was just wondering if the pen inks runs prior to application or if it stays on the model just like paint? Before I get some I would like to know that they will work well.

Not quite sure what you mean here.... The pen works like a felt tip pen tho, if that helps any.

Newt-Of-Death wrote:I've never heard of apple barrel paints, (are they an american company?). How do they compare to GW paints as far as texture and feel and fluidity are concerned?

Newt, I'm not sure if theyre available across the pond. As for comparison, 2oz for $.99 *$.50 on sale* and while the metals dont stand up to GWs, the rest are about the same.

Nice tutorial! The only thing I find is I LIKE the lines to not be straight for checks and dags. In fact, I make mine sloppy on purpose after having carefully done several of them. They just weren't 'ramshackle and orky' enough.

Another nitpicky thing, is I'm not sold on the wash done on the white. I normally do a gray or bleached bone layer underneath the white, then hit it with a brown wash to show that these proppa boys have never bothered with a washing machine

Newt, I'm not sure if theyre available across the pond.

Across the pond! lol, love it.

I may have to get my friend to post me some over to try.

nice

This is a great noobie tutorial, and the end product looks fantastic for the time invested. I don't think I could have replicated exactly because I have no idea where to get the paint/had already been convinced by pouncing redshirts to buy a lot of Citadel paint, but the basic, good idea here still would serve anyone who just bought Black Reach or an Ork army well.

thanks tard "lol" just remember that AB paints are super cheap *I catch them on sale at Michael's for .50 a bottle* so get a few to start, or wait till your GW stuff dries up " ;P

gregor_xenos wrote:thanks tard "lol" just remember that AB paints are super cheap *I catch them on sale at Michael's for .50 a bottle* so get a few to start, or wait till your GW stuff dries up " ;P

Ohh, that's even more good information! I can definitely give them a shot at that price. Now I'm going to eagerly look for them and the entire range next time I drop in the store for more Dullcote.

gregor_xenos wrote:

lucas wrote:I was just wondering if the pen inks runs prior to application or if it stays on the model just like paint? Before I get some I would like to know that they will work well.

Not quite sure what you mean here.... The pen works like a felt tip pen tho, if that helps any.

Sorry, I didn't really make this question clear. I meant to ask if the pen ink stays on the model or if it rubs off pretty easily. I know some markers will rub off the models, but I have heard good things about micron so I'm going to try them out.

Thanks

I meant to ask if the pen ink stays on the model or if it rubs off pretty easily. I know some markers will rub off the models, but I have heard good things about micron so I'm going to try them out. Thanks

Hmmm.... really couldnt say.... I generally Clear Coat right after using marker. Im sure it would stay once dry tho.

I WANT my pen ink to rub off . That way when i draw flames , numbers and more i dont have a silly , not straight outline , that often has'nt been filled 100% ! Just make sure to rub it all of , having black smudges over you'r freehand is a pain in the @$$

Good tutorial man. Reverse highlighting is really a very strong technique for blending in colors, resulting in a very smooth effect on just 2-3 layers. I am a big fan of it, especially when doing big mobs of things like IG and orks.
Good contribution!