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Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Central Valley, California

For my next painting project I am considering switching to P3 paints. They are less expensive, and they don't dry up so fast. In addition, so long as PP continues to do well, they don't go out of print -- like GW paints do. Chestnut ink anyone? Losing a solid necessary color choice really messes up paint projects which require consistency.

So, I'm thinking of going all P3 with the exception of these excellent GW colors (IMO).

Tin Bitz
Skull White
all 3 of their grays
Boltgun Metal

do any of you have any suggestions, any suggestions at all. I'm painting a "small" WoTR army and this one's going to be about aesthetics. I am going to write my paint scheme down meticulously (something I haven't always been good about doing) and keep consistency amongst different types of troops. I want to get started on the right foot -- with the paints themselves.

first off, should I just use P3 grays as well? What about GW Washes? I like them, but do you think they will be around in 3 years? any thoughts on this choice (which we all had to make when P3 came out) as well as other suggestions would be helpful.

Thank you

~ Shrap

Rolling 1's for five and a half decades.
AoS * Konflikt '47 * Conquest Last Argument of Kings * Trench Crusade * Horus Heresy * The Old World * Armoured Clash 
   
Made in us
Growlin' Guntrukk Driver with Killacannon





Charlotte

I'f you like mixing colors for shading work, you'll be fine with any range you choose. I use a mix of several lines (GW, P3, Vallejo, Reaper) but I have yet to find better metallics than good ole GW. That said, any paint will dry out if you neglect them. Proper care will keep a pot alive for years, ask any of us that still tote GW hex pots with red, black, or blue lids.

Any company has the choice to discontinue a paint color for whatever reason, but Privateer Press and GW are both very successful companies, and their overall paint range will eb around for a long time. I'd wager the GW washes alone have improved the look of tabletops around the world, doubt they're going anywhere anytime soon.

P3 paints are a great choice. Most hobby shops will carry individual pots as well as 3-color sets. They're high pigment as well, I use several of them for lighter 'trouble' colors like yellows and whites.

Waaagh-in-Progress

"...if I haven't drawn blood on a conversion, then I haven't tried hard enough." -Death By Monkeys

If Gork had wanted you to live, he would not have created me. 
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut







Only thing I'd say with the P3 paints is to make sure you pop an agitator (such as a small glass bead) in the pot - they have a habit of separating if left unused for a while, and the agitator will help you mix them back together.

I'm not sure on Morrow White vs Skull White, but I'd also consider keeping the GW Washes in your paint set, as they are excellent.

2021-4 Plog - Here we go again... - my fifth attempt at a Dakka PLOG

My Pile of Potential - updates ongoing...

Gamgee on Tau Players wrote:we all kill cats and sell our own families to the devil and eat live puppies.


 Kanluwen wrote:
This is, emphatically, why I will continue suggesting nuking Guard and starting over again. It's a legacy army that needs to be rebooted with a new focal point.

Confirmation of why no-one should listen to Kanluwen when it comes to the IG - he doesn't want the IG, he want's Kan's New Model Army...

tneva82 wrote:
You aren't even trying ty pretend for honest arqument. Open bad faith trolling.
- No reason to keep this here, unless people want to use it for something... 
   
Made in us
Furious Raptor




Colorado

I use P3 mostly, and the main reason I like them is the amount you get. You pay the same for GW and P3, but the P3 paints have a lot more for the same amount. also, they don't seem to need to be thinned as much.

   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Central Valley, California

Dysartes I used to use bb's for an agitator. That isn't bad for the paint, is it?

Thanks for the other feedback. I just want a range that will work well, but be around in 3 years. I do plan on using the GW washes ,despite my fear they will be discontinued someday.

~ Shrap

Rolling 1's for five and a half decades.
AoS * Konflikt '47 * Conquest Last Argument of Kings * Trench Crusade * Horus Heresy * The Old World * Armoured Clash 
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut







I've not had any problems with the paint quality with an agitator in the pot, Shrapnel.

2021-4 Plog - Here we go again... - my fifth attempt at a Dakka PLOG

My Pile of Potential - updates ongoing...

Gamgee on Tau Players wrote:we all kill cats and sell our own families to the devil and eat live puppies.


 Kanluwen wrote:
This is, emphatically, why I will continue suggesting nuking Guard and starting over again. It's a legacy army that needs to be rebooted with a new focal point.

Confirmation of why no-one should listen to Kanluwen when it comes to the IG - he doesn't want the IG, he want's Kan's New Model Army...

tneva82 wrote:
You aren't even trying ty pretend for honest arqument. Open bad faith trolling.
- No reason to keep this here, unless people want to use it for something... 
   
Made in ca
Sneaky Kommando



Alberta, Canada

The P3 line is awesome, I definitely recommend them (although I personally use them as an enhancement to my GW stock )

Advice: run far, far away from their metallics. In my opinion they are pure garbage. GW metallics are superb (particularly the silver/chainmail/boltgun series).

   
Made in us
Rampaging Furioso Blood Angel Dreadnought





Boston, MA

Orangecoke wrote:The P3 line is awesome, I definitely recommend them (although I personally use them as an enhancement to my GW stock )

Advice: run far, far away from their metallics. In my opinion they are pure garbage. GW metallics are superb (particularly the silver/chainmail/boltgun series).


I also use them to enhance my GW (and Vallejo and Reaper Masters) stock. Though the only metallic P3 I have is Blighted Gold and I actually really like it.

Really the best thing about P3 paints is that you can thin them to insane extents. For example you can make a a mix that is almost pure water with the slightest tint of pigment and work up nuance colors very smoothly and gradually. None of the other paints I have thin as well... and in fact the Reaper Masters don't take to heavy dilution very well - though I do still love them for other reasons.

Please check out my photo blog: http://atticwars40k.blogspot.com/ 
   
 
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