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What is the difference between Forgeworld resin models and plain resin models besides the awful abundance of miscast rates and air bubbles anything i need to watch out for when prepping and using Forgeworld models? going to be getting 2 sets of Deathguard and a Deathguard terminator squad and want to know if there is anything special to prepare for in advance because i like to plan and have everything prepped and ready for each stage of assembly / painting.

All you really need to do is give them a good soak in some warm, soapy water and proceed to rub them (gently) with a washcloth. Afterward, rinse them off and let them dry. Also, when cutting or sanding resin, always do so with a mask on and in a well ventilated area.

In the event your models are warped, give them a soak in some hot water, and proceed to bend them into the propper shape (you may have to do this several times to get the desired shape).

As a general rule, Forgeworld resin is quite soft but tough, compared to some of the other stuffs I've had experience. Ironclad Miniatures, for example, uses immensely hard and brittle resin that breaks with a razor-sharp edge.

On the items that you are getting be sure to watch the spikes on the heads of the deathguard as a bunch of mine came broken. other then that they are great items !

The reason they probably came broken is because Forge World's idea of packing is throwing it in a box and sending it out the door...probably literally throwing them into the box.

I bought a barracuda from them once and there was practically no protection for my (at the time) $120 model whatsoever, besides a single layer of bubblewrap on the bottom of the box. It's a wonder mine didn't come in twice as many pieces as it was supposed to. Not only that but it was a pretty gakky cast, the vents in the wings had resin pooled in them in some spots so the detail was obscured, and there were holes all over the thing.

Anyway...like Bob said, just clean and file them like normal (while wearing a dust mask, since resin dust is harmful) and give them a good scrub in warm, soapy water to get the release agent off. You might also be interested in priming them with auto primer (I use Duplicolor sandable black primer for all my models), sometimes paint has a hard time sticking to FW resin.

When I built my nightwing interceptor, one of the pieces was seriously warped, so I glued it to its counterpart piece and used small clamps to keep it in the right shape/position until the glue died. It worked pretty well, as its been almost 2 years and my nightwing hasn't exploded yet.

If you get warped pieces, a hair dryer on low heat will do the trick. Just be carefull how hot you get the piece. I have personally found FW resins to be a lot better quality, both in detail and workability, than most of the other companies about that I have purchased from. Maybe I'm just lucky