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I have some old GW plastic glue that is really thick, its still stick but it's hard get out of the bottle I have to use a piece of spruce to dip it the the bottle then apply that to the model. Is there a way to thin it and make it easier to use?

Not worth it, really. I'd buy a new bottle, of some other brand.

Thinning it would probably make it weaker, probably best to just buy a new one.

Agamemnon2 wrote:Not worth it, really. I'd buy a new bottle, of some other brand.

QFT.

n0t_u wrote:Thinning it would probably make it weaker, probably best to just buy a new one.

Not of GW make, in any case. If you use strictly plastic models, I highly recommend Testors Liquid Cement for Plastic Models. Strong enough to let dry on its own in about 15 seconds, and a few hours will make it as strong as its namesake. Caution is forewarned, however, because that last statement is not an exaggeration. I tried to take off an arm that had been glued on incorrectly, and I ended up ripping the arm in half first. Once this dries completely, best of luck getting it off. On the upside, it will not stick to ANYTHING but plastic. I frequently use my shirt and fingers to wipe off the excess when I accidentally put out a little too much glue, and it will never stick anything but plastic.

(Just be wary that it doesn't work well on magnets or metal models if you have any intention of using them. Like I said, glues absolutely nothing except plastic)

Agamemnon2 wrote:Not worth it, really. I'd buy a new bottle, of some other brand.

YAY that means I can go irritate the clerk at my FLGS.

How would just plain super glue work?

Of course, I only brought GW glue once and that was because there was no other plastic glue available.


Yep, super glue will work, but you'll have to hold it a bit longer until it holds itself.

I prefer super glue for a few reasons:

1) Cheaper then whatever GW tries to sell you

2) Will glue anything (I prersonally like loctite). This does have its disadvantages if you're careless however.

3) Plastic cement melts plastic, making it reform a sone piece. With superglue, you can have it break off. This means, that when (not if, when) your prize conversion falls, the glue joints will let go, increasing the cahncce of the pieces surving more or less intact. It also means you don't have to tear a badly placed arm in two. It won't break easilt, mind you, you need to apply force to the right spot, so no worries about models falling apart.

CommissarKhaine wrote:I prefer super glue for a few reasons:

1) Cheaper then whatever GW tries to sell you

The bottle of glue I got was in the hobby started set or else I wouldn't of bothered with paying 6$ for a small bottle I can get atleast 3 bottles of superglue for that much.

Testors is the best. It has a long nozzle that you can trim just enough to get a thin bead coming out. Be careful leaving the cap off as the glue will dry and jam you tiny hole. They also sell a pack of nozzles you can attach to this bottle and the cap will still fit the attached nozzle. When my trimmed nozzle was jammed with too much glue, I just cut off a large chunk and attached the nozzle. The problem here is excess glue will stick the cap on the nozzle BUT it does not fuse the two together. All you have to do is twist each part in the opposite direction and they come apart.

Use this kind. It's got a metal tip, so there's no need for cutting. And it comes with wires to clear the tip if it gets gummed up.

Again, I cannot recommend this type enough.

The Power Cosmic wrote:Again, I cannot recommend this type enough.

^^

Agreed! One thing though, to clear the metal tip, hold it over a flame for a couple seconds until you see flame come out the nozzle.

Todosi wrote:Agreed! One thing though, to clear the metal tip, hold it over a flame for a couple seconds until you see flame come out the nozzle.

... I'm not sure if you're serious or not. I can just think of so many ways that could go horribly horribly wrong.

I am very serious and a licensed pyrotechnician. The match goes under the metal part which heats up the clog and it flares quickly at a low temperature. The vapor is what is actually burning. This produces a brief orange flash at the tip of the tube. After that the vapor is gone and nothing else can burn. Very safe, very effective.

I use Tamiya Glue in a hexagon orange jar,
you brush it on, and your good to go,
Plus its only $2.50 each :-)