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Alright, so my lovely girlfriend bought me some Elysians as an early Christmas present, and I've been reading about resin through my time on Dakka.

But I still have a few questions:

1) What would serve as an effective release agent remover? I've thought about Dishsoap or Mr. Clean, as our Wal-Mart has stopped stocking Simple Green (They do wierd st like that)

2) What primer should I use? I've heard GW primer doesn't hold to resin that well. Is this true, or am I alright spraying it with the current formula?

3) Any additional tips, aside from careful trimming and taking a toothbrush to the minis as they soak?

Thanks to those that reply. Check my blog in due time for shots of these fellows

Really? My EC dready from FW took GW primer like a champ.

If it's warped or bent, run the resin under hot water for a minute and you can bend it in place.

Hope that helps!

1) I use regular fairy liquid/washing up soap and a toothbrush.
2) Gw primer is fine.
3) Be careful when sanding/filing, it creates a very fine dust that gets EVERYWHERE including your lungs.
You may want to pin more parts than you would a plastic model. Superglue has a far more brittle bond than poly cement.
I sometimes like to use a hairdryer for bending warped pieces.
Hot water is fine for small 'end' bits like gun barrels, horns etc a hairdryer can target the 'middle' of a section.
Which ever technique you use quench/fix the bend in cold water.

Hope this helps.

GM Primer sticks fine as long the its been cleaned thoroughly, I use an electric toothbrush, don't use your girlfriend/wife's as they don't understand.

If you're worried about adhesion, do a little test with a piece of resin sprue. The metric I've found useful is priming the test piece, letting it dry, and then putting a strip of Tamiya masking tape over the primed area, burnishing it well. Then, just rip off the tape. If the paint comes off with it, you could have a problem.

In general, FW's human-sized figures havent been problematic in that regard for me (I've built their tech servitor, the titan crew and some Cadians with their update parts), I suspect those need less mould release to manufacture, so you should be okay.

Since they're so light, resin figures don't really suffer as badly from knocks chipping off paint as metal minis do, so getting the perfect adhesion might not be absolutely necessary.

Thanks guys. I was just flipping through some of Dakka's ancient archives on the topic, and a lot of people had said GW primer won' stick. Good to know that it's just an issue of cleaning

So assembly should be done with superglue then?

Again, thanks. I'm looking for colour scheme suggetions over in my blog. If anyone would like to put a picture forward with a scheme I could consider working with, I'd be happy much

Alex Kolodotschko wrote:1) I use regular fairy liquid/washing up soap and a toothbrush.
2) Gw primer is fine.
3) Be careful when sanding/filing, it creates a very fine dust that gets EVERYWHERE including your lungs.
You may want to pin more parts than you would a plastic model. Superglue has a far more brittle bond than poly cement.
I sometimes like to use a hairdryer for bending warped pieces.
Hot water is fine for small 'end' bits like gun barrels, horns etc a hairdryer can target the 'middle' of a section.
Which ever technique you use quench/fix the bend in cold water.

Hope this helps.

These tips are all you really need.

However:
If you want real crisp, fine priming...do not be afraid to look at the more "professional" lines like Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer. Resin isn't listed, but it takes to it like a champ. Vallejo also makes great primer, and Army Painter's Matte Black is fantastic.