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This is 30mm-scale terrain for wargaming, roleplaying games, miniature dioramas, skirmish games, model railroads, class projects or just for fun. Assembly is quick and easy, requiring only some sheets of cardstock, a sharp hobby knife and ordinary paper glue.

This Medieval Walls Set is a modular kit, giving you lots of pieces and parts that you can use in various ways to design your own medieval walls layout. This set's walls and watch towers can be used to surround a town or village, noble estates, parks, cemeteries, courtyards, prisons, sanitariums, military garrisons, or to separate the districts in a medieval city. There are countless ways to put these components together, and you'll certainly come up with interesting combinations never anticipated by the original design. And you can easily combine these pieces with other papercraft models. Each piece of this set is easy to assemble on its own, and the real artistry is how you start combining them.

Detailed assembly instructions are provided, including tips and advice for printing at various popular gaming and model railroad scales. One of the great things about papercraft models is that they can be printed at any popular gaming scale quite easily, so this model can be used for 28mm, 25mm, 20mm, 15mm scale and smaller. These files are 200dpi, which will look great when printed at full size without requiring large file sizes. You'll need Adobe Acrobat Reader 7.0 or later in order to use them, and the multiple layers may take additional time to render, so please be patient while your images load onto the screen.



MULTI-LAYERED FILES: The PDFs included in this modular model set are multi-layered and contain a variety of surface textures and external features that you can customize with the click of your mouse. All of the walls feature four distinct base textures: wood, red stone, gray stone and bricks. There are also several layers of weathering and additional details, including doors, windows, lamps, ivy and more.

DIMENSIONS: The walls in this set are 3.5" tall and 1/4" thick, and are supplied in widths from 1" to 6" and every half-inch in between. The shorter of the two watch tower variants is approximately 6.4" tall, and the taller of the watch towers stands approximately 8.75" tall. Each watch tower has a footprint of approximately 2" x 2". Bear in mind that the components in this set allow for a sprawling layout without any limits.

CONTENTS: This set includes 13 pages of components, including everything needed to construct the watch towers, walls, roofs, dormers, buttresses, columns, pillars, angled struts, walkways, two types of railings, gate doors, ladders and more.

Be sure to visit DavesGames.Net to see my entire collection of papercraft models and upcoming releases.

Wonderful, my Empire town is coming together in my head and once I've moved house (and country) later this year it will be coming together on a table top.

Does this set have a stretch of plain walls too then?

I can't see them in any preview, but if they are there, this will probably be first on my 'to purchase' list!

(Well, along with the rest of the buildings!)

Yeh Alph,

The corner bit is made from two plain walls and in the other diagram the gate bit is attached to a tower which leads off a long straight plain wall.

At least that's how I'm reading it.

Maybe it is too early for me, but I'm just not seeing it...

*EDIT*

Oops!

Apparently I wasn't scrolling down enough!

I blame it on the fact that the other sections weren't in color!!!

(Certainly not on the time OR that I left my glasses upstairs!)

Yes, there are plain walls. The buttresses, columns and walkways are all optional add-ons.

Eventually I'd like to produce a set of shorter walls, as well. And possibly taller, more robust walls that will be appropriate for castles and forts.

so how do these work? you print them and glue them to plasticard or what material?
i'm not sure what is meant by "cardstock" i know what it is in a board game but you can buy cardstock from somewhere?

"cardstock" is just a 'heavier weight' of paper.

"Normal" printer paper is around 20 lbs. (also seen as 20#).

Cardstock is like the stuff business cards are printed on.

Usually 80 to 100 lbs. weight.

They only place that I can reliably find it is Staples or Office Max or some such place.

Alpharius wrote:"cardstock" is just a 'heavier weight' of paper.

"Normal" printer paper is around 20 lbs. (also seen as 20#).

Cardstock is like the stuff business cards are printed on.

Usually 80 to 100 lbs. weight.

They only place that I can reliably find it is Staples or Office Max or some such place.

thanks alpharius... now the 100 pound note i found on some staples paper makes sense.

The textures on those could be better. They didn't even bother to try and meld the features together, most of it is just layered on top of something I've seen on cgtextures before and has a black outer glow.

Seems like a nice way to get some terrain on the cheap though, and it looks better than some I've seen.

You've got a sharp eye! I'm sorry you don't like the promo graphic.

I probably could have done a better job on the gate doors. On the real thing, the door isn't simply a layer -- it's a working door. For the promo graphic, it's just a Photoshop layer. When I create these promo graphics, I photograph the real model and open that photo in PS. Then I select some of the optional layers that I think will work well together, and build up a clean-looking graphic from those so that I can control the shadows, eliminate any blur or overexposure from the flash, and that sort of thing. The real model is used so that the geometry of the piece is correct.

On the real model, the gate doors are flush with the outer wall. I didn't have a good way to convey a sense of depth to them (because there isn't any), so I used a little bit of shading around the layer I chose for that door to keep it from being such a harsh transition. Looking at it now, I probably should have used heavier lines for the borders around the door, which is how the real thing looks to me (now that I study it a bit more closely). But that's a Photoshop flub of mine, more than it's a failing on the look of the actual model.

I use photographic elements for almost all of the textures. They may look computer-generated here because they were put together in Photoshop for promotional purposes and you're not seeing the fine detail because it's a 72dpi image. But you haven't seen those textures anywhere before, except on my other models or actual buildings. And if you don't like these textures, there are usually 3 others in the set that might be more to your liking.

You've got a sharp eye! I'm sorry you don't like the promo graphic.

Sorry, I do graphic design for a living and I do a good bit with tessellating textures so I tend to pick things like that up rather quickly. If you're trying to convey depth it's pretty easy to create an additional layer behind the door with a light bevel, then you can apply the effect and use a sharp mask gradient so that it only gives depth range (I'm sure you now how to do most of that anyway though). I honestly just thought that that was what the finished model was meant to look like, so the flat papercraft door with the shadow stuck out pretty quickly to me.

For reference you may also want to minamalize the size of the planks in the upper tower structures. They are contiguous, even beyond the framing, and are almost as wide as the window itself. Both of those will stick out like a sore thumb to anyone that works with wood or housing. Try to maintain plank sizes similar to those which make up the door, those ones seem much better proportioned. For that matter the bricking is enormous as well. Keep in mind these are all just suggestions, having oversized building elements within the design does help to make them considerably easier to recognize at distance, so it's a give and take.

Thanks. That's good advice.

Contiguous beams aside, just about everything that goes into these models is thought through. Because they're intended to be used with gaming miniatures, they're exaggerated to some extent. Miniature figures don't follow natural proportions. Their limbs are unnaturally wide and bloated, and their hands are almost as big as their heads. Most of my models are designed to be taller and thinner than real buildings because I want them to tower over the miniatures, but also because it reduces their footprint, giving miniatures more room to move.

If this were to be a faithful scale model, it'd be far more detailed than this, but I don't think it would be as effective as gaming terrain. One of the selling points of papercraft models is that they can be reduced to 15mm scale or even smaller, and one should try to anticipate how the textures are going to tighten up when they're half the size seen on the 30mm scale model. If I don't exaggerate the size of the features, then I have to exaggerate the contrast, and that's sometimes the route I take.

With terrain, I'm always thinking about the overall impression. These walls are supposed to be imposing and sturdy, and so I've exaggerated things like the width of the planks and the size of the stones. Some features are going to get more scrutiny (such as the gate doors), and so these features have more detail. It's a bit like painting in the Frazetta style, in that the eye is drawn to the places of greatest detail while forgiving areas that are more impressionistic.