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Got some models from a friend that had been heavily painted with gloss krylon spray paint. 5 days in simple green did NOTHING. Searches came up with conflicting information. What is the correct method? They are all plastic I don't want to warp or ruin the plastic. Can someone please help?

Castrol Super Clean is your next best bet. If that doesn't work, the last resort is Brake Fluid. If you use Brake Fluid, be sure to dispose of it at a hazmat facility. DO NOT dump it down the drain!!!

go industrial strengh oven cleaner. thats what i used.

I've used krylon flat black as a basecoat for my models, and I used castrol superclean to strip some of them. It took off the GW paints, but not the krylon. I think krylon bonds with the plastic.

THAT is the one sad fact about Krylon paints. They WILL not come off except with the most extreme stripping methods, methods which normally destroy what you are trying to strip.

Auto primers are the same way. Krylon and Duplicolor primers I believe microscopically weld themselves to whatever you prime (most auto can primers are "self etching" - they create their own pores in soft material to embed themselves in).

Whenever I buy primed/painted minis I ask the buyer if he knows what they were primed with. If it was with Krylon I'll ask for a pic of the mini(s) in question to see for myself if it looks blobbed on. If it looks too thick I won't even bother.

I've tried the Castrol route with Krylon (Duplicolor and Rust-o-leum are the same way) and the plastics will generally start to melt or get really soft around the same time the primer starts to come loose.

In a nutshell. You could try Castrol but if nearly a week didn't do it than Castrol probably won't either. Hopefully not much detail has been covered. If not you can probably cheat it by just going super thin with your paint colors (or use a spray aerosol to rebase them as that is the thinnest layer of paint you can apply so long as you don't empty an entire can on one guy).

Fateweaver wrote:THAT is the one sad fact about Krylon paints. They WILL not come off except with the most extreme stripping methods, methods which normally destroy what you are trying to strip.

Auto primers are the same way. Krylon and Duplicolor primers I believe microscopically weld themselves to whatever you prime (most auto can primers are "self etching" - they create their own pores in soft material to embed themselves in).

Whenever I buy primed/painted minis I ask the buyer if he knows what they were primed with. If it was with Krylon I'll ask for a pic of the mini(s) in question to see for myself if it looks blobbed on. If it looks too thick I won't even bother.

I've tried the Castrol route with Krylon (Duplicolor and Rust-o-leum are the same way) and the plastics will generally start to melt or get really soft around the same time the primer starts to come loose.

In a nutshell. You could try Castrol but if nearly a week didn't do it than Castrol probably won't either. Hopefully not much detail has been covered. If not you can probably cheat it by just going super thin with your paint colors (or use a spray aerosol to rebase them as that is the thinnest layer of paint you can apply so long as you don't empty an entire can on one guy).

Fateweaver- are you sure you're talking about regular Krylon paint? Theres the Krylon Fusion which does bond to plastic- because its made too.

Krylon flats dont stick like that- I used them for years and they strip quite easily with Simple Green and Superclean- the gloss stuff though, can be a different story if its thick.

Also- Ive had figs soaking in simple green and superclean for several months....yes, months- neither softens plastic.

For gloss paint- it takes a bit more work- the smooth surface is basically less porous and doesnt let the solvent in as easily. Try abrading the paint a bit- light sand paper or maybe a brass brush to get some paint scracthes and let the solvent absorb into the paint so it can slough off.

Last option- if you know anyone with a mini-abrasive blaster (air brush sized sandblaster) it can help in tough spots like these.

So...would Duplicolor paint be a bad primer then? I like using it myself but I've never had to strip a model I primed with it yet, so I didn't know that it wouldn't ever come off again.

Sidster - Id say if you like using it, then keep with it. Just remember that IF you ever need to strip it, itll take more then the normal method.


And who the hell says Castrol Super clean is the NEXT best bet? That stuff wins over simple green everytime, hands down. Sheesh!


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Oh yea, buy it at some walmarts, and autozone! Its cheap and comes ina gallon. Rock star stuff IMO

With pets in the house I like the SG just in case they decide to "sample" it.

I've used auto-primers since I realized that GW primers (yeah back when they were a "true" primer, now they are just $12/can flat colors) were overpriced crap.

Krylon Ivory is similiar to GW Bleached bone but I can get 4 cans of Krylon Flat Ivory for the cost of one can of GW Bleached Bone.

If Duplicolor works for you keep using it. Barring a bad priming job you should never have to strip your own stuff.

has anyone every tried a media blaster (sand blaster) on metal models? i just got a lot (2k points) of CSM and about 1/4 are HORRIBLY painted. i am thinking of taking them to a auto shop and see if they could blast them clean. thoughts?

No. just plain no. bad idea. just no.

has anyone every tried a media blaster (sand blaster) on metal models? i just got a lot (2k points) of CSM and about 1/4 are HORRIBLY painted. i am thinking of taking them to a auto shop and see if they could blast them clean. thoughts?

Go for it! Please post pics of the models after you do it!

Even metal models are too soft to survive sand blasting. You'll certainly get the paint off...and most of the detail.

Damn. Now I have half a army of white nids and half and army of red nids.

Do I SOAK in brake fluid or just spray and wipe?

Is it brake FLUID or brake CLEANER?