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Hey im new at this metal model building, and my space marine thunder fire cannon wont glue together, I used GW glue, lock tite, and some super glue gel, NONE of them works i let the glue set for at least 2 days and still not drying or sticking.

The model was annyoing to put together, had to restart and remove the super glue with acetone can any one provide help or something.

The model is the problem here.

The TFC (that fething cannon) is a miscast piece of gak that won't fit together without a hammer. I don't think GW have sold more than 3 of them here (well - not counting the returns - of which there were many in the first few weeks).

Superglue requires that there are not huge gaps between surfaces to be glued.
The model itself has nothing BUT huge gaps between mating surfaces.

Patience and pinning. Failing that I'd trade it for something that won't give you a migraine like a LR or something else that's all or mostly plastic.

If only they made a plastic one . i heard pinning with tooth picks help and i also heard presure help too. And shouldn't the glue at lease be dry?

EDIT: would green stuff work?

You'd think.

It's odd loctite brand glue didn't work. That's what i use the most as IMO it's the best glue available.

Could always try crazy glue brand or get some epoxy for metal or all purpose epoxy.

59.99 For a hunk of metal that you can bearly build with out hammering in the front and or taking a x-acto knife to it. Sad.

I really liked that, I clicked yes because I built 2 and both were a huge pain, then saw the poll results of 4 yes's and 0 no's. That made me laugh.

The worst thing, IMO, was the shells that you must mount on the rear. That and the two halves of it dont really fit together and they are almost too thick to bend into place. Agreed?

Pin and two part epoxy, just like the old Empire Steamtank. It's the only way to be sure!

JB-Weld to fill the gaps and tape to hold it together while it sets then go at it with files (make sure you wash all the mould release off it first).

zap-a-gap is what i've used for stuff like this but not this one in particular. takes way to much patience though imo

New to modelling, and picked this as one of you first, huh? That's like starting a football team with the neighborhood kids, and scheduling your first game against the '72 Dolphins.

I built one of these bad boys. Never has a model filled me equally with so much pleasure and rage in equal parts: I really, really love it's appearance and function.

However, it's far and away one of the most difficult models I've ever built because it is quite poorly cast.

I'd recommend liberal use of a dremel tool around the center collet (wear a dust mask, and keep in mind after 20 seconds of this, you're going to need to start making "Gets Hot!" rolls). Once it's in and freely panning about, I handled this by :

tracing the collet onto some paper,

making a center disc of plasticard to fit in the collet,

taping the disc into the bottom of the collet with painters tape to seal the cracks

pouring lots of 2 part epoxy into the top of the collet, and

then drilling out a hole in the center and gluing in a magnet.

Once that's done, there is enough stick from the magnet to keep it from falling off, but you can freely spin the barrels around on the base.

Much patience, much filing, much greenstuff, my friend. Very difficult model.

Try this site for glue.

http://www.filla-glu.com/?tx=34425456EV040150D&st=Completed&amt=9.48&cc=GBP&cm=&item_number=#/products/4535257025

Use the kikka pen with there glue and it works on models just like supaer glue should .

Seriously, when EVER your doing something with metal (weather it be all metal, or a multi kit) ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS pin them. Its a must. Its like building models with out their heads and arms, you just cant do it. But for what its worth, Ive NEVER heard someone say the Thunderfire cannon was a joy to assemble. Infact, Ive heard the same exact complaint so much, I pretty much can just tell you where and what is wrong with it lol

Yeah, you're pretty much down to two options, pinning, or using a 2 part epoxy to bridge the gap between the models. In fact, your best bet is probably to do both.

Here's a pic of that magnetizing. Please do not mock me for painting smurfs.

Ouze wrote:New to modelling, and picked this as one of you first, huh? That's like starting a football team with the neighborhood kids, and scheduling your first game against the '72 Dolphins.

Best metephor ever.

OT, what exactly is the problem with the Thunderfire? I only know one person who's bought and assembled it, and he didn't have any complaints.

To understand this you have to understand super glue itself.

You remember those old Super Glue advertisements with the guy on the construction site? The guy sticks the helmet to the I-Beam and hangs from it? That's pure tensile strength... stresses are exerted at 90 degrees to the adhesive surface, trying to pull them apart.

If you glue two things together and instead of pulling directly apart you just twist it will break a lot easier. That's shear strength and is much different than tensile strength.

Super glue has great tensile strength but very little shear strength. It's brittle. The larger the gap between the parts you glue the greater the shear stresses exerted on the glue join and the easier it will fall apart. I suspect (as I'm not a Marine player) that the gaps are large. If you use epoxy putty or something that has good shear strength to fill the gaps then you rely less on the super glue's shear strength and more on it's tensile strength.

CrashUSAR wrote:OT, what exactly is the problem with the Thunderfire? I only know one person who's bought and assembled it, and he didn't have any complaints.

Several problems, actually. The mold lines everywhere are pretty heavy, and often it's not cast in such a way as to make the mold lines hard to see - check that picture I posted, the right half - right up the middle of the right track.

The barrel assembly in my case was slightly longer on one side, and warped. It's fairly thick metal, so hard to bend while retaining control, and filing it takes a long, long time.

the breech assembly doesn't fit, at all, into where it's supposed to. I had to do a ton of filing there.

Far and away on mine, the worst offender though - the collet. The barrel rests on a gear assembly, and it's rounded on the bottom, which slides into a circular collet in the base. Think a tank turret into a tank base. The problem here is the gear assembly base is round, and the collet is a misshapen oval. I needed to file away nearly a quarter inch of metal.

Strong candidate for a plastic re-release, IMO.

my tip -
get the 2 bits that arn't fitting well together.
lightly cover one part in vaseline or similar.
put a lump of green stuff on the other.
press together & tape to hold until the gs is dry.
trim off the excess gs.
wash both parts in washing up liquid.
this should proved the ideal surface for the glue to hold.

@ Cheatmaster you also said you removed the glue w/acetone, acetone can leave a film residue that I have found to even prevent primer to stick to aluminum. So since I never put one of those cannons together that might also be a small part of your problem. What I would suggest is use rubbing alcohol or another type of solvent to clean your parts before gluing or painting. Although acetone can soften or even melt most plastics to make a seamless bond with practice.

thanks all but i did it with a rubber band and a day's time, It's rock hard (sounded wrong)
btw @ shrew was that residue white flakes because i picked them off with an x-acto knife.
next big metal model ima magitize.

Thanks all for helping me

cheatmaster407 wrote:Hey im new at this metal model building, and my space marine thunder fire cannon wont glue together, I used GW glue, lock tite, and some super glue gel, NONE of them works i let the glue set for at least 2 days and still not drying or sticking.

some one sold you water in a drop bottle.