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Made in us
Corporal




Chicago

Well I have been working on building my army (ork horde thus far) and have started to run into the issue of how im going all my models without things bashing and crashing about. So far it hasnt been much of an issue as not much is painted, my main concern is when it is painted how to keep it from chipping. I've looked at some of the gw figure cases and they look pretty nice even if they are rather pricey. Basically if you can give a quick review on the gw figure case or on a better way to move models it would be greatly appreciated. Also a way to move the larger more irregularly shaped vehicles.

Been out of 40k for many years. Slowly painting up old models and getting back into it.
-----
1500 orks in a jumbled pile
WIP Space wolves no direction
 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




Dayton, Ohio

Rare earth magnets and a plastic toolbox with metal drawers. Set you back around $80.00 but worth it.

If more of us valued food and cheer and 40K over hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world. 
   
Made in us
Corporal




Chicago

hm, I feel like I could pay 80 (probably less at one of hte local hobby shops) and just get the official case. Is there any reason the magnet and metal drawer should be taken over a figure case?

Been out of 40k for many years. Slowly painting up old models and getting back into it.
-----
1500 orks in a jumbled pile
WIP Space wolves no direction
 
   
Made in us
Heroic Senior Officer





Woodbridge, VA

Well, after finishing that bucket of Kentucky Fried Chicken, you take all your models and toss them into the bucket...............

There are lots of cases out there. I use all GW cases, mainly because I had so many before the surge in all the other case manufaturers. But if I was starting from scratch, I'm sure I could find better ones for about the same cost.

The metal tool box works quite well also. Don't even need rare earth magnets. Just line the drawers with a sheet of magnetic liner and use metal washers on all your bases. The advantage is that you don't have to cut slots in foam, change what goes where, etc. You just set them in the drawers.

Don "MONDO"
www.ironfistleague.com
Northern VA/Southern MD 
   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

I have a Sabol designs Army Transport and like it well enough. For my upcoming IG and WOC armies, though, I will be grabbing a Battlefoam case.
   
Made in us
Lurking Gaunt



San Fernando Valley, Ca

i have a Army Transport with a lot of adjustable foam pieces in it.

i carry my demon hunters in it with inducted imperial guard. it fits 2k points including 3 tanks in it. got around 50$ US about 7 years ago.

not sure prices now though haha

over 2000pts of each :  
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




Dayton, Ohio

I use rare earth magnets and a toolbox for several reasons. Rare earth magnets (neodymium) are the strongest magnets you can get. If you glue the appropriate sized magnet into the base of your minis, they won't come loose from whatever metal you stick them on. I can turn my case upside down and shake it. I would not recommend this for checked luggage however, I've seen the way baggage handlers throw things around.

I glue the magnets in with a small ball of green stuff. I scratch the magnets and the bottom of the base with a file or knife tip first, place the magnet on a sheet of metal (Altoid tins work great), then push the model down on the green stuff and allow to dry. Voila! Perfectly spaced magnets! After they dry, I add shotgun shell lead shot (number 7, 8 or 9) to fill the base, add super glue and accelerator. The magnet is now very secure, glued in with green stuff and super glue on the sides. The base is now weighted and thus more stable, able to stay upright on sloped bits of terrain, or if the model (gaunts anyone?) is inherently off balance. Setting them up this way takes some preparation and shopping around for magnets and shot, but I can magnet up a large army in an afternoon.

If the model is pewter, extra large or unwieldy, you can add more or larger magnets to keep them secure.

Using a metal toolbox drawer gives you the ultimate flexibility for organizing your squads. You don't have to pull out individual foam trays to get the one at the bottom, just open drawer one, two or three. Finally and most important to me, even foam trays will eventually start to wear the paint off the weapon tips, heads and elbows of your models. If you load them into drawers, they never touch anything but your hands, and not even that if you handle the bases only.

Kobalt makes a plastic toolbox with a large upper compartment and three metal drawers. Depending on the army, you can remove one drawer for battlesuits, wraithguard or other extra tall infantry, or you can stick them to the sides of the drawers. The upper compartment can fit two landraiders and 4-6 rhinos, for example. This toolbox costs $39.99 at Lowes home improvement centers. I have 13 of them at the moment, with regular and chaos marines, guard, eldar, tau, sisters, and orks.

Ultimately, the peace of mind I get is worth the trouble, especially after all the cleaning, assembly, painting and clear coating I do for a nice looking army.

If more of us valued food and cheer and 40K over hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world. 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Krak_kirby wrote: After they dry, I add shotgun shell lead shot (number 7, 8 or 9) to fill the base, add super glue and accelerator.


This is awesome! I have been using fishing line lead weights to weigh down my "tipsy" models, but lead shot sounds much easier. Can you get it at walmart?

GG
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




Dayton, Ohio

I had to go to Gander Mountain. I bought a 25 pound bag of shot that will last me and my friends the rest of my life. It cost me $65.00, so that was a hit in the wallet, but when I know something will work well I stock up. I imagine you may be able to find it in smaller quantities and cheaper online.

If more of us valued food and cheer and 40K over hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world. 
   
Made in us
Corporal




Chicago

Krak_kirby wrote:I use rare earth magnets and a toolbox for several reasons. Rare earth magnets (neodymium) are the strongest magnets you can get. If you glue the appropriate sized magnet into the base of your minis, they won't come loose from whatever metal you stick them on. I can turn my case upside down and shake it. I would not recommend this for checked luggage however, I've seen the way baggage handlers throw things around.

I glue the magnets in with a small ball of green stuff. I scratch the magnets and the bottom of the base with a file or knife tip first, place the magnet on a sheet of metal (Altoid tins work great), then push the model down on the green stuff and allow to dry. Voila! Perfectly spaced magnets! After they dry, I add shotgun shell lead shot (number 7, 8 or 9) to fill the base, add super glue and accelerator. The magnet is now very secure, glued in with green stuff and super glue on the sides. The base is now weighted and thus more stable, able to stay upright on sloped bits of terrain, or if the model (gaunts anyone?) is inherently off balance. Setting them up this way takes some preparation and shopping around for magnets and shot, but I can magnet up a large army in an afternoon.

If the model is pewter, extra large or unwieldy, you can add more or larger magnets to keep them secure.

Using a metal toolbox drawer gives you the ultimate flexibility for organizing your squads. You don't have to pull out individual foam trays to get the one at the bottom, just open drawer one, two or three. Finally and most important to me, even foam trays will eventually start to wear the paint off the weapon tips, heads and elbows of your models. If you load them into drawers, they never touch anything but your hands, and not even that if you handle the bases only.

Kobalt makes a plastic toolbox with a large upper compartment and three metal drawers. Depending on the army, you can remove one drawer for battlesuits, wraithguard or other extra tall infantry, or you can stick them to the sides of the drawers. The upper compartment can fit two landraiders and 4-6 rhinos, for example. This toolbox costs $39.99 at Lowes home improvement centers. I have 13 of them at the moment, with regular and chaos marines, guard, eldar, tau, sisters, and orks.

Ultimately, the peace of mind I get is worth the trouble, especially after all the cleaning, assembly, painting and clear coating I do for a nice looking army.


well those certainly are good reasons, I do believe I have a new project to work on!

Been out of 40k for many years. Slowly painting up old models and getting back into it.
-----
1500 orks in a jumbled pile
WIP Space wolves no direction
 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




Dayton, Ohio

Found this for $39.99, dunno about shipping -

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=192129

If more of us valued food and cheer and 40K over hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world. 
   
Made in us
Warplord Titan Princeps of Tzeentch





Pat that askala, O-H-I hate this stupid state

Gun cases work really well also. I use this for my orks and i have around 180 models in the case that fit comfortably in it. The others have suggested really good ideas also i suggest one of the cheapest for $20.

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Made in us
Dakka Veteran




Dayton, Ohio

Here is the site I use for magnets: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/

Most infantry bases are roughly 1/10" deep underneath, so 1/8" magnets are a little too thick. K& J Magnetics has surplus discs, 6mm x 1.5mm, which is similar to 1/4" x 1/16", N35 grade. Not as much magnetic pull as N42, but plenty strong for infantry models. You can get 100 magnets for $5.00 plus shipping.

The 60mm bases for dreads and heavy weapon teams come in several styles. There is the terrain molded-in style, the plain black style for walkers, and the thin black style for weapon teams. 1/8" x 1/8" magnets work very well in the walker bases. The base has little reinforcing cylinders of plastic for gluing the big pins on the feet of large pewter models.
Glue 2-4 magnets, one per hole, till the model is secure.

The thin 60mm bases have 1/8" depressions underneath. Use 1/8" diameter x 1/16" thick magnets for these.

Finally I checked my lead shot, and I'm confident it is size 7.5. This size is just small enough in diameter to avoid peeking over the rim, and weights the base very well.

If more of us valued food and cheer and 40K over hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world. 
   
Made in us
Corporal




Chicago

Thank you very much krak_kirby, this is really useful. I think I have enough information to get myself started on this. Thanks again for all the posts!

Been out of 40k for many years. Slowly painting up old models and getting back into it.
-----
1500 orks in a jumbled pile
WIP Space wolves no direction
 
   
Made in us
Krazed Killa Kan






Minnesota, land of 10,000 Lakes and 10,000,000,000 Mosquitos

If you really don't care about what your case looks like, you could also look into some plastic from JoAnn's (Or any big hobby supply store, really). They have these really nice thread carriers that have compartments, which are the perfect size for 40k models. My friend and I swear by them. Plus, they cost less than 10 bucks for a lot of storage space (I know I can fit about 3 Fire Warriors into a single compartment, and it comes with 15+ compartments depending on size. Toss 'em in one of those big bins that JoAnn's also sells, and you can pretty easily cart around your entire army in a single case (One of those bins will fit 3 or so carriers along with a couple of vehicles, depending on size).

Just thought I'd throw that out there if money is an issue. Otherwise, go with one of the nicer cases.

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Made in us
Nasty Nob on Warbike with Klaw





St. Louis, MO

So, you've got 4 choices.

Sabol
Battlefoam
GW cases
*Other

*Other encompasses a wide variety of items, but I'll stick to what KK is talking about.

This can be an excellent idea. One of the guys in my gaming group does this.

He buys his "cases" from Walmart, lines the bottom with a metal sheet, cut to size with tin snips, and does his bases like KK (without the lead shot).

He uses these for some armies:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite-Tall-Closet-Drawer-Set-of-3/10401062

He uses these for others:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite-3-Drawers-Set-White/8282902

Basically, the larger model count armies get the ones with more drawers.

Hope this helps.

Eric

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Walmart pistol and rifle cases are the best price/space ratio you'll find. Too thin for trukks and wagons.
   
 
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