Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I just finished building my next set of terrain. One of the buildings has a small section of a second floor which I wanted tile on. I used foam board, I pulled the top layer of paper off, then I scored it with a dull pencil. For some broken tiles I used some 1/8" foam paper from walmart. I haven't painted yet, but so far it looks really good. Anyone want to gimme some other techniques on making tile flooring, and maybe where I can get it? Thanks ahead of time, looking forward to your comments!

FOR THE EMPEROR!!!

I just use textured plasticard with a 12mm grid scored into it for mine.

Evergreen makes the stuff and the larger hobby/model stores I frequent usually carry it. If they carry model railway stuff, they usually will also carry this stuff.

large hobby/model store like michaels craft store? or a more specialized store? like one that would sell GW?

Find a local gamestore that focuses more on the hobby. It really varies.

I found a store that sells plasticard through the Evergreen main site distributors.

Other than that, some Train Hobby Stores sell the stuff. I found the odd AC Moore in NC that sells the stuff. Mostly AC Moore and Michael's don't sell it. Local Game Stores occasionally do as well especially if they're hobby-oriented.

I meant like a store that is more in the general hobby kind. A place that sells model kits, trains, radio-controlled cars/tanks/planes, dolls house stuff and everything that goes with it (like paints and glues and tools and stuff).

I don't know what you'd call them. We just call them "hobby stores".

Both of the stores I frequent for this stuff are like this. One also sells GW stuff (not my local one, unfortunately).

Recycle plastic tubs- eg margerine/ice ceam

cut into into squares
stick on another piece of recycled plastic

if that way is too fiddly simply score with the back of a #11 swann morton blade or a pin in a pin vice
prime and paint

if you gloss varnish the floor then you can run a wash into the lines to bring them out
hth

do you only recommend washing after the varnish? cause I don't usually varnish my terrain.

I'm not sure if the cardboard will work very well but it is still looking good. It will look better when it is painted. Hopefully.

I think the terrain is looking very promising. Believe me i built alot of terrain out of cardboard aswell and once you get some paint on it it sure will look great.

//Avach

The wfb movement trays can make pretty decent tiles floors.

dingholio wrote:do you only recommend washing after the varnish? cause I don't usually varnish my terrain.

If you wash over a matt surface, it will get into the pores of the surface (for want of a better term)
By using a gloss varnish of some sort you can run a wash into the grooves of the tiles, and any wash on the tiles can be wiped off.
there are various ways of doing the wash- with oils, waterclours or acrylics.

that way you can get neat lines between the tiles.

if you want a matt finish, once it has been weathered to taste coat with a matt varnish.

Like your model figures the varnish will toughen and protect the terrain during game play, so it may be worth considering.

A cheap and useful varnish to use is Johnson's Klear.
It has been used for all sorts of things by modellers. Sadly in the UK we now have a new formula which i believe still works ok but not sure about applying decals (transfers)

Re cardboard walls. Again may be worth trying a laminate on both sides with plastic - will be stronger, and no risk of warp when painting.
I now use No Nails type adhesive for this sort of work. Although initially it can slide, once in position and left to dry it does tend to set very well, even on foam.
Here i the UK it is available in the cheapo shops. PVA/White Glue is not so good on plastic.

hth

edit; very rude of me - forgot to say that it is looking jolly D

thanks for the compliment, I basecoated the building yesterday, and I'm gonna try to freehand the tiles and see how they turn out till I can get my hands on some plasticard. I'll attach a pic on this thread later on, hopefully today, but you can't rush these things ya know! thanks again for the advice, I didn't know you could coat gloss varnish with matte varnish and it would still work. That's a gem of hobbyist knowledge if I ever heard one! Thanks again!

FOR THE EMPEROR!!!

look forward to seeing some progress