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Not sure if this is the right forum, but here goes.

I am getting a forge world model and am wondering if i need special Cutting implements and Glue.

i have GW clippers.

do i need a special kind of glue or would super glue work?

Superglue is really the only stuff that will work on resin. The two part epoxy version would be better however, even considering the extra drying time, as it forms a much stronger bond.

As for cutting implements...
A jeweler's saw, Dremel with sanding/saw bits(depending on what model it is), exacto knives, and lots of fine sandpaper.

Oh. Also, get a respirator and safety goggles. Resin dust isn't something you want to inhale or get into your eyes.

Also, wash the model with an old tooth brush in warm, soapy water. This cleans off the mold release.

Mewiththeface wrote:Also, wash the model with an old tooth brush in warm, soapy water. This cleans off the mold release.

This, a thousand times, this. A lot of FW models (well, any resin models) are covered in the mold release agent. Paint won't stick to it well at all (I think it actually repels the paint), so make sure you wash any resin models in water. I tend to leave all my resin parts in a sink of lukewarm water for about 20 minutes. After the 20 minutes, I brush them down with an old spare toothbrush, to get rid of any accumulations of water/mold release, and then leave them to dry for a few hours. If you're not sure how long to leave them to dry for, leave them until the next day. I usually find 3-4 hours is enough, but occasionally it does take longer. Some people brush the models while they're in the water, I clean them down after they've sat in the water for a little while.

Be prepared to need to bend parts into their correct positions too. Sometimes parts are warped. This can be fixed by putting the part in warm water, or exposing it to hot air (hairdryer). Obviously, don't do the hairdryer bit if the parts are wet While it's warm, bend the part into shape a little, but don't overdo it. If you need to severely bend a part, bend it a little and let it dry/set. Once it's set, warm it again and bend a bit more. Sometimes FW will replace badly warped parts if necessary.

Also, really consider pinning joints, but be very careful. Resin is extremely brittle, so don't apply too much pressure on a joint or it might break.

As people have said, sandpaper helps too (a very fine dusting over a model with sandpaper can also help paint adhere). If you're going to be sanding a lot, definitely get a dustmask. Trust me, I've gotten resin dust on my lungs before, and I was coughing for almost a week after. It's really nasty stuff, so prepare well before you sand it.

Putting it lightly:
It doesn't matter if you're "sanding a lot" or a little.
Get.a.respirator.
A dustmask will barely do anything, and if you're going to start airbrushing or anything of that sort, a respirator is also pretty handy for that too(acrylic thinners when sprayed can be a health hazard, even if they're heavily diluted--as can acrylic paint itself).

I cannot stress the respirator and goggles part enough.

its a Warhound so its pretty big.


so a good saw.

Epoxy glue, is that easy to find at say a hobby store?(not GW)

mask.

wash before hand.


Would magnets work for say the arm sockets?

Magnets are a good idea, yes.
Two part epoxy glue, you'd want something like Gorilla glue(I think. I've not built anything the size of a Titan yet, so I just go with pinning and normal superglue).
As for the saw, look explicitly for hobby saws. You want something with a good handle and control.

clippers work but might damage, and white glue works as a sealant.(if you have gaps between 2 parts.)

I hope you're not saying that you use Elmer's glue to fill in gaps between parts. Because that's a bad idea.

And yes, clippers do work...for trimming very fine, easy to get parts. Otherwise you use an exacto knife with an "11" blade or a fine jeweler's saw, as the clippers will take WAY too much of the part in question off with the excess.

gorilla or superglue is good.


has anyone had expierence with titans. do the legs have trouble supporting the weight? i have seen titans in walking positions with the center of gravity far forward of the legs or with all the weight on one leg.

would JB-weld work for larger connections? its an epoxy-steel glue used for fusing steel pipes together.

First thing is to clean your resin in warm soapy water to remove the release agent. That stuff will interfere with painting and gluing. As for glue, use superglue or two-part epoxy glue. This being said, not all superglues are the same so do a test first.

Regarding sanding and masks, if you're using a hand file (like a needle file most of us use) then you can get by with a "well ventilated room". No special mask or anything like that is really needed because the particles don't go airborne. If you use any sort of power tools like a dremel, then you absolutely need a mask. The resin dust will be extremely fine and absolutely airborne.

and a hardware store dust mask won't do the trick.

i would need a ventilator if i use a dremel correct?

Grey Templar wrote:and a hardware store dust mask won't do the trick.

i would need a ventilator if i use a dremel correct?

Yes. But I'd still highly suggest to wear a respirator, no matter what.
Some people have undiagnosed respiratory problems that can show up every once in awhile.

right.

i'll just use my little hobby saws on the back porch to trim things up.

Kanluwen wrote:I hope you're not saying that you use Elmer's glue to fill in gaps between parts. Because that's a bad idea.

And yes, clippers do work...for trimming very fine, easy to get parts.

Nope used GW white glue to make sure 2 pieces were connected properly, not filling gaps just because it dries thicker then superglue.
And thank you for converming that for me.

Kanluwen wrote:Putting it lightly:
It doesn't matter if you're "sanding a lot" or a little.
Get.a.respirator.
A dustmask will barely do anything, and if you're going to start airbrushing or anything of that sort, a respirator is also pretty handy for that too(acrylic thinners when sprayed can be a health hazard, even if they're heavily diluted--as can acrylic paint itself).

I cannot stress the respirator and goggles part enough.

Right, and why didn't anyone tell me respirators instead of dustmask when I asked how to treat my macharius a month back...

so i soaked the resin for 20 minutes before scrubbing with a tooth brush.

should i have seen anything coming off?

on some of the larger pieces i saw some slightly sticky substance(almost like tree sap) that came off fairly easily with a fingernail, but very few pieces had anything coming off that i could see.

i used gw clippers and superglue on my nightwing, and it stays together far better than any of my other models do.