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Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






Arlington, Texas




The crappy pics don't do my blending justice I want advice on what I should do for accent colors and on the weapons. I like the yellow for the front features, and I was thinking the eyes could be a deep, dark blue with some awesome highlighting. I have no clue what to do with the weapons and pouch though. It obviously needs to be something within or a step from primary, and I'd really like to avoid just throwing silver or metal on there. Any ideas, Dakka?

For grins, possible names for the chapter: Sky Burners, Sky Breakers, or my favorite, Windbreakers - they break the emperor's wind! And the captains could all wear jackets

Edit: Those pics are really, really crappy now that I see them full size :/ Hopefully they're good enough.

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2010/04/09 17:02:56


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Made in us
Mindless Spore Mine



South Texas

Now this might just be from the overwhelming HD quality of those pictures, or the fact that its a WIP - but I would say step #1 would be to hit the thing with some wash or something to give it some depth and pick out some of the detail. Maybe some blue or black for the pack and shoulders and some magic mud on the red parts?

As for actually answering your question though... I usually do my weapons mostly metallic with some of the larger flat areas picked out in a color that matches the army. In your case I think bringing over some of that sky blue you have going on would tie-in nicely on the chainsword and sides of the bolter.

When it comes to the pouches though I can't ever do them in anything other than brown or black. To me they're obviously leather and my OCD wont accept anything else so I can't help ya there.

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Servoarm Flailing Magos





Alaska

Yeah I would get a bit farther along before posting pictures... because these pics make it look terrible.

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Pyre Troll






it looks like the primer went on kinda fuzzy
   
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Mekboy Hammerin' Somethin'





Battle Creek, MI

are those clouds on the shoulder pads and jumppack?

   
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Slippery Scout Biker




The Netherlands

Maybe something dark for the pouches and such? Like, black or a dark version of one of the primary colors you use on the model?

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Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






Arlington, Texas

The pics aren't conveying the model remotely >.< I have 3 layers of shading across the red (not counting the wash after the first layer) and a 6 shade gradient of blue on the jump pack with 3-4 tones one each of the clouds. I'll wait to get further along and see if I can find a camera that doesn't make everything look horrible.

@nimrod: I like the idea of a dark blue pouch.

@tink: I might have to agree on a lighter blue on the weapons too. The contrast between black on the saw part or barrel and a light blue one the sides would give it some definite oomph.


On a side note, this is the first plastic model I've done in months. I spent more time filing and GSing than actually painting :p I hate plastic.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/04/07 18:53:01


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Made in ca
Flashy Flashgitz





Aurora ON

It's nice, but you need to separate parts like the "X" straps on the torso. Also, I love the cloud idea, but I think it'd be better if you made them storm clouds, or some kind of reddish sky with dark clouds. Not as realistic, but more fitting, and 40K is bound to have planets that have red skies. Anyways, the blue as it is, just stands out too much.

whalemusic360 wrote:
DBZ referance. Gotta be a special kinda nerd to get that one.


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Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






Arlington, Texas

Ok, finished, and with significantly better pics.






If I can explain a little about my color scheme. I've been on a primary kick lately. I used to hate them and would try my hardest to use only one per model, but have since been singing a different tune and hopefully it shows well. I've also been getting into pop art lately and believe this hints at a 60's - 70's good vibe, slightly dulled bright color, a little disturbing to the eye but it remains cohesive by merely existing kind of attitude. I love the scheme but would like gut reactions from others. As as side note about them not being storm clouds or something more "40k-ish," the moment that I stop painting models the colors I want them is the moment that I stop painting models. I'd much rather paint a mini then use it in 40k then have a mini for 40k that I have to paint. The game isn't good enough to warrant that kind of time from me.

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2010/04/09 17:39:43


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Made in us
Servoarm Flailing Magos





Alaska

Unfortunately, ATM your pics don't work.

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Fixture of Dakka






Arlington, Texas

And they do again :p Helps to post the pics *after* I make a folder for them.

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Nimble Pistolier





America

What is this? Are you trying to make these marines like eldar with edited for rudeness. No clouds.No were.

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This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/04/09 18:05:17


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Stealthy Space Wolves Scout






I can't say I'm thrilled with this look for an Assault Marine. Or ANY marine, for that matter. What will you paint for the ground troops, tufts of grass and dirt ?

Snarkiness aside, I think the colors and clouds make a nice scheme for a kid's playroom but not for one of the Emperor's Finest.

But it's your model, and if it makes you happy, full steam ahead !!!



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Servoarm Flailing Magos





Alaska

Although I think Grambo has no tact and two wrongs don't make a right; hit the Moderator Alert button, kids! Don't just insult people back! I do kinda agree that this paintscheme is a bit off the wall.

If you want my honest gut reaction, I'll give it to you. I think your painting could use a LOT of work. You claim that there is blending involved in this miniature? I do not see evidence of this anywhere in the pictures you provided. I also see no evidence of shading or highlighting techniques, which are even more vital than blending to the quality of a piece.

How you can improve:

1. Use some washes to bring out definition in the crevices. Key areas that I see that need improvement are the chest straps, the shoulder pad trim, and all the red areas. Use sepia for the belt, a blue wash for the shoulder pad trim, and some devlan mud (brown) or ogryn flesh (reddish brown) for the red areas.

2. Highlights are traditionally a lighter color than the base. Notice that adding white to a color is not good enough, try adding bleached bone or ivory to get a more realistic color shift.

3. Probably the most important, photography. You can find out more by looking it up, but I can give you a couple basic tips- A) Use 2 lamps, one positioned directly above the model and one positioned above and in the direction of the camera. B) Set up a plain background, such as a white piece of paper, that goes underneath the model and curves up behind. C) Position your camera about 6" away from the model for best focal-length, more or less depending on your particular camera. D) Turn your auto-white-balance to "Incandescent" or "Indoor" lighting to remove the yellow tinge. E) Enable your camera's "Macro" mode to focus on close objects F) Brace your camera, either by tripod or careful holding, and press the shutter button slowly so you don't get motion blur. There's obviously a lot more to it, but hopefully that will set you on the right track.

Please don't take this criticism to sharply, I am just trying to help you improve.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/04/09 18:06:28


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Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






Arlington, Texas

I understand, and actually did both of the top steps. I'm surprised that you can't see any blending, but I understand. My photography suffers for a few reasons, the foremost being the cameras I have to use. These are pics taken on my desk at work.

On a bigger scale, I wish people get past the "40k mindset." This game was meant to be a chance to be creative and I don't think everything has to be covered in skulls and spikes or, god forbid, stick 100% only to already written fluff.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/04/09 17:44:14


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Servoarm Flailing Magos





Alaska

That would probably explain it then. Yeah it kind of limits us being able to tell you our opinions when we have trouble seeing the model, so sorry for the less-than-desirable feedback!

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[DCM]
Tilter at Windmills






Manchester, NH

I think the color scheme is a neat change of pace. I like the cloud effect you’ve gotten; they’re immediately recognizable to me.

That said, I do think the piece could use a bit of work in the areas FoxPhoenix mentioned. I’m still learning proper washes and blending myself, but IMO making the details of the model look nicer would make the unusual paint scheme more palatable and more impressive. Like in the recent tutorial about freehand (with the Landraider example), where he showed how making the little details on the tank itself stand out underneath actually made the freehand painting look cooler.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/04/09 18:12:11


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I, for one, encourage creativity but I also feel working within certain constraints and appropriate boundaries requires one to be MORE creative.

The "40K Mindset" probably comes from the fact that this is a 40K model, from a 40K Universe that we're discussing.

Be creative, go over-the-top, break from "traditional" 40K dogma if it pleases you but you can't expect people to embrace an extreme distortion of a well-established imagery.

Keep in mind, also, that 40K is a collaborative game of conflict. If you are also a gamer (and not just a hobbier who paints but doesn't play) you will throw down with an opponent who may not appreciate playing against an army that makes light of an established game imagery that he's embraced. "To each his own" but your scheme can be seen as "mocking" to the universally accepted imagery of 40K and may diminish your opponent's enjoyment of the match.

That being said, I've seen everything from Pink Necrons to Yellow Hello Kitty Marines to McDonald's Marines in this hobby and all were met with a smile and a chucle from me. Would I paint my models like that ? No - it's not in my vision of the 40K GrimDark Universe. But I can appreciate the effort and am happy that effort brought enjoyment to the person who put it forth.

'Nuff said (more than enough , I expect) .... bottom line, HAVE FUN !!! Just don't expect wide-spread acceptance of an OTT idea. Do it for yourself alone.



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Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






Arlington, Texas

@mannahin: Well said. I know one of my big weaknesses is getting a strong enough contrast to be dramatic within one colors range.

@Myrthe: It irritates me slightly because this is the "Painting and Modeling" forum, not the "Fluff and Nitpicking" forum. I don't expect acceptance, just a willingness to see another point of view and not judge based on an arbitrary standard. I could care less what my opponent expects to see as I paint my army for me, not for him. That's like saying you should vote for whoever your neighbor likes to please him. I guess I shouldn't go ordering a taco in a burger joint either though

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Spawn of Chaos




It is still a bad prime. too fuzzy. But the colors should work. I understand the fuzziness if it is a test model.

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Troubled By Non-Compliant Worlds





Lancashire. England

Its a bit off-the-wall as people have said but long as you've enjoyed the painting then , maybe define the clouds / chest strap a bit more? (appologies if you have cant see in pic )


   
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Tilter at Windmills






Manchester, NH

Cannerus_The_Unbearable wrote:@mannahin: Well said. I know one of my big weaknesses is getting a strong enough contrast to be dramatic within one colors range.

@Myrthe: It irritates me slightly because this is the "Painting and Modeling" forum, not the "Fluff and Nitpicking" forum. I don't expect acceptance, just a willingness to see another point of view and not judge based on an arbitrary standard. I could care less what my opponent expects to see as I paint my army for me, not for him. That's like saying you should vote for whoever your neighbor likes to please him. I guess I shouldn't go ordering a taco in a burger joint either though


I don’t think it’s arbitrary though. Subjective, sure, but hey- this is art. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and all that!

While I agree with Myrthe and you that the most important person to please is yourself, I don’t think it’s very productive to entirely dismiss the potential reactions of people you play with. Gaming is essentially a social activity, and part of why most of us play wargames is to enjoy the spectacle of nice looking armies on the table. I’ll freely admit that if I’m looking for a pickup game at a store, I’m usually going to be more interested in playing against someone with an attractive army than someone without. And similarly, you may find that your ease in finding opponents is influenced by how much they like looking at your army.

It’s kind of like major conversion and counts-as armies. IME most players are much happier with them if they’re very well done. Any unhappiness they may have about facing something potentially confusing is offset by the pleasure of looking at really well-done conversions and attractive painting.

Similarly, I think if you refine your painting techniques and your models show nice detail work, people who otherwise don’t care for the paint scheme will be more accepting of the army. My friend Alex loves to paint his armies pink- he has pink SM, pink Chaos, pink Necrons, and pink Sisters. Lots of people say they love it, a lot of others say they hate his color schemes, but he does some very nice detail work, so even the guys who hate a pink army usually are (at least grudgingly) complimentary of his work.

It is still a bad prime. too fuzzy. But the colors should work. I understand the fuzziness if it is a test model.



Actually, I was wondering about that as well- there does appear to be a fuzziness/bumpy quality to the paint showing in these pics. Usually this is an issue with spray primer not coming out right, though it can happen with too-thick paint as well, IIRC. Something to look out for.

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I understand your perspective ... and irritation. Some, however cannot separate the "Painting and Modelling" hobby aspect from the overall 40K Universal Game itself.

While I don't agree that the standard is "arbitrary" given all the existing fluff, I do think some adhere too stringently to it as if it were handed out on gold placards by the Emperor himself

At any rate, while your scheme may not appeal to me, I am certainly not one to stand in the way of your having fun doing it ... maybe I'm just jealous that you have time to paint and I haven't lifted a brush in months ;-)

And, to return to the model at hand rather than a philosphical discourse, you might want to try exagerating the contrasts to give the colors more "depth". Keeping within color generalizations (warm vs. cool), brown washes help shade red, orange or chestnut washes for yellows, and black / purple / dark blue washes help offset blues. You could also use a pale blue-grey wash to add free-hand depth to the clouds as well.



"You never see toilets in the 41st Millennium - that's why everyone looks so angry all the time." - Fezman 1/28/13
 
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






Arlington, Texas

The primer was the last of the bottle, so it was a bit "fuzzy" on a few parts. I had my paint thinned down to more liquidy than milk so I know it's not a thickness issue. I just need to buy better primer than the cheap stuff I'll do my contrasting shades more extreme on the next one and get some feedback on it

If the fluff weren't ever contradictory or came from the same source I could understand the viewpoint more, but as it is, it clashes with itself at times (every codex contains the deadliest army evarrr!). Taking 40k fluff seriously is about as worthwhile as playing by strict RaW; they're both written to the same standard

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