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Re: milky varnish: I don't know if you're still having this problem, but it's caused by the varnish drying at an uneven rate: probably the surface is either drying out too quickly before the lower layers, or vice versa. The usual suspects are temperature (too hot or cold), humidity / moisture, or simply putting on the varnish too thickly, or putting a second layer on too soon after the first.
Suggestions: Use thin coats (some varnishes you can actually water down a bit to get a thinner consistency if needed) try to varnish at "room temperature" (might be a bit hard given where you're at), and never varnish if it's raining. Also make sure the model is bone dry before varnishing: don't do it too soon after painting, and let the first coat dry fully before applying a second. If it does dry milky, I've heard you can sometimes buff it off with a chamois or cloth: alternatively, a second coat can sometimes smooth out the imperfections if they're on the surface.
Re: greenstuff as adhesive: Greenstuff, as you already know, comes in two parts: the base and the curing agent (I think yellow is base, blue is agent, I'm not certain on that). Anyway, if you add more blue, it dries harder and faster, if you add more yellow, it dries slower and softer. You want it slower and softer, because that also makes it stickier: try using 2x yellow to 1x blue. I've also had some decent luck using the so-called "greenstuff sandwich" - apply super glue to both pieces, sandwich greenstuff between them, trim and smooth off the excess. The greenstuff fills the gap, the super glue gives a strong hold. However, you have to make sure the greenstuff is fully cured before putting any strain on the joint, or you wind up with two ragged bits of half-cured greenstuff superglued to your model parts: a real mess.
Best of luck: I had two cousins go through Iraq with the Marines, and one friend who went there as an Air Force MP. Stay safe, game well, and come home soon!
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