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Hey people,

I recently found out a way to put together metal models with multiple glue,

I put plastic,super and white glue together,and wala!

It sticks very well!

I used to glue tons of models without pinning. Getting them to set took forever, but the real pita was when they would fall apart later on.

It's "Voila" (not 'wala') with the accents all over the place like is common for that backwater mispronounced provincial latin dialect.

Good surface matches between pieces works without pinning. If there is a significant gap, pinning is pretty much a necessity (or use of a decent epoxy putty for the gap filling to allow good "intimacy" between gluing surfaces.

I mix up about 50/50 superglue and greenstuff. Holds like a champ. Just be sure to trim the excess before the glue dries.

I second that, to the use of greenstuff.

I'm with Chromedog here. Make sure the two surfaces match. I would add if "superglue" is old, throw it out and buy a new bottle.

I hate to go against a thread, but I have to say always pin when metal is involved. Ill put my pinned minis up against ANY non pinned mini in a drop test any day. Ive dropped them (EVEN AN OLD SCHOOL DREDNAUGHT!) before and have had them survive with flying colors. Glues just arnt good on their own as far as dropping goes

Depends on how far they drop. My 28mm do ok from about 5 foot. Admittedly, that's on carpet. They probably won't do as well on bare concrete.

Surprised no one has praised super glue accelerate yet.....

At least, thats what i use for small metal models that are really to little to pin.

ShivanAngel wrote:Surprised no one has praised super glue accelerate yet.....

At least, thats what i use for small metal models that are really to little to pin.

That accelerant also weakens the permanent bond, though it quickens the drying process. Sitting and holding it will last longer than an accelerated kicker. Plus, in the end, both work poorly compared to regular, old-fashioned pinning.

chromedog wrote:It's "Voila" (not 'wala') with the accents all over the place like is common for that backwater mispronounced provincial latin dialect.

Cool,thanks

Lorgar's_Blessed wrote:

ShivanAngel wrote:Surprised no one has praised super glue accelerate yet.....

At least, thats what i use for small metal models that are really to little to pin.

That accelerant also weakens the permanent bond, though it quickens the drying process. Sitting and holding it will last longer than an accelerated kicker. Plus, in the end, both work poorly compared to regular, old-fashioned pinning.

agreed but some piece are extremely difficult to pint (talking man sized models).

And if you use the accelerate to tack it on, and go back with some 30 minute epoxy, the bond is plenty strong.

I usually pin my models.
Some (where the contact points are less than 0.5mm) get the mating surfaces sanded/roughened up and just epoxied.

I've pinned down to a 1mm wide join before and though difficult at first, is quite easy with practice.

There is a Vampire girly mini for mordheim (big hair, corsetry. holding a cutlass. A friend maintained the wrist/hand was too small to pin. He was wrong. 1mm, plenty of room. A small amount of epoxy to the pin and she still holds up.

I thought the metal Gargoyles were horrible to try to pin, but the Zoanthrope is worse! I wish I cold just weld or solder these bastards together.

Cross hatching the two surfaces with a knife works well if your dealing with big pieces.

I concur with chromedog.

I would rather the hassle of pinning [I really should get a dremmel!] to the annoyance of having to re-glue later on. [guaranteed to be required whenever you are getting your minis out for a game that you are late for!].

Something that chromedog also touches on but I find is rarely mentioned is roughing up the surfaces. Providing a key is vital to a long holding bond. When I started out I would often file the surfaces to get rid of flash/mould lines and get a perfect fit, only to think that the glue failed later on; when in-fact the glue was still in one piece but couldn't adhere to shiny metal!

Just gently scratching your knife in a criss-cross pattern on each surface helps immeasurably.


Edit - Ninja'd it would appear. Nice darts Emmkay

After basically all of my 2nd edition large nids got knocked off my shelf on a windy day and broke after my (at the time) best efforts at painting into their constituent pieces, I have pinned almost every metal model I have owned. I only skip out when it is physically impossible, and lately I'm pushing what I even thought of as impossible.

Since I have a huge supply of 1mm plastic rod lying around, I'm even thinking of trying it out as a "pin" for plastic. Though I don't think it will make much difference.

zeronyne wrote:I thought the metal Gargoyles were horrible to try to pin, but the Zoanthrope is worse! I wish I cold just weld or solder these bastards together.

Well, you could, if you had a low-temperature iron and solder to go with it. It's a fairly common way to put together brass-and-pewter craftsman model kits.

Tony the guardsman wrote:Hey people,

I recently found out a way to put together metal models with multiple glue,

I put plastic,super and white glue together,and wala!

It sticks very well!

Rubbish. Plastic and white glue are of no real use on metal surfaces.

I almost never pin, not necessary if you use two part epoxy glue (that is explicitely for glueing a.o. metal). You must hold the parts for about 5 minutes and then you are done.
Having clean and rough surfaces always helps with glueing. And yes, plastic glue does nothing wih metal

chromedog wrote:It's "Voila" (not 'wala') with the accents all over the place like is common for that backwater mispronounced provincial latin dialect.

It is French and written "voilà".

Howard A Treesong wrote:

Tony the guardsman wrote:Hey people,

I recently found out a way to put together metal models with multiple glue,

I put plastic,super and white glue together,and wala!

It sticks very well!

Rubbish. Plastic and white glue are of no real use on metal surfaces.

Hehe...Whatever you say

Howard A Treesong wrote:

Tony the guardsman wrote:Hey people,

I recently found out a way to put together metal models with multiple glue,

I put plastic,super and white glue together,and wala!

It sticks very well!

Rubbish. Plastic and white glue are of no real use on metal surfaces.

Not to mention the possibility for a dangerous chemical reaction that could take place from mixing said superglue and plastic cement.

Kroothawk wrote:
It is French and written "voilà".

Believe I already said that [the reference to badly pronounced provincial latin]. Hard to add accents with an English (Australia) keyboard map.

Can't do umlauts or that funny 'B' symbol for 'SS' either.

I just wanted to add the accent.
ÄäÖöÜü?â߀
(BTW the funny B is actually taken from the old German letters, combining a normal s looking similar to an l with a z looking like a 3)

Tony the guardsman wrote:

Howard A Treesong wrote:

Tony the guardsman wrote:Hey people,

I recently found out a way to put together metal models with multiple glue,

I put plastic,super and white glue together,and wala!

It sticks very well!

Rubbish. Plastic and white glue are of no real use on metal surfaces.

Hehe...Whatever you say

I am correct however, it's basic science and common sense. White glue is merely a stretchy polymer, it works best on porus surfaces because it soaks in, on a non porus surface like metal it merely holds by surface suction, the join will have almost no load bearing capacity at all even if you can get the parts to 'stick'. Plastic cement works by chemically melting hard plastics allowing a bond to form between two plastic parts, it's chemically inactive on metal.

Maybe "Tony the Guardsman" is actually "Tony the Ork", and mixing 5 non-adequate glues (instead of using one adequate glue) works for him because he believes it works

I rarely pin stuff. Only if it's like a small joint that needs to hold a lot.. like the 3rd editing hive tyrant's waist. I have some big models (like old metal laindspeeders & dreadnoughts) that I've had superglued together with no pinning for 10+ years and never had anything break. Just be careful with your stuff.

You should use accelerants sparingly and only when really necessary. It makes the joint very weak. The best way to go is just take your time. I'll spend a couple days building big metal models. Like the carnosaur I just built. Day 1, glued on the left leg and rested the model down so the leg was sticking up so it wouldn't fall down. Next day I did the other leg. next day I did the tail and arms. next day I used greenstuff on the gaps in the joints to blend everything. I guess it helps when you have multiple projects going at once

Also when I glue stuff, I use the zap a gap glue that is thick like the consistincy of plastic glue, not the watery kind. I'll apply the glue and then let it sit for about 5 minutes before I try to join the pieces. Then I hold them together firmly for another 5 minutes or so, then stick it on the table and go work on something else

JOHIRA wrote:After basically all of my 2nd edition large nids got knocked off my shelf on a windy day and broke after my (at the time) best efforts at painting into their constituent pieces, I have pinned almost every metal model I have owned. I only skip out when it is physically impossible, and lately I'm pushing what I even thought of as impossible.

Since I have a huge supply of 1mm plastic rod lying around, I'm even thinking of trying it out as a "pin" for plastic. Though I don't think it will make much difference.

Plastic rod can be used to pin plastic bits which have broken, such as the oleos of an aircraft model, and makes a much stronger repair than just cementing the pieces back together on flat surfaces.

ShivanAngel wrote:

Howard A Treesong wrote:

Tony the guardsman wrote:Hey people,

I recently found out a way to put together metal models with multiple glue,

I put plastic,super and white glue together,and wala!

It sticks very well!

Rubbish. Plastic and white glue are of no real use on metal surfaces.

Not to mention the possibility for a dangerous chemical reaction that could take place from mixing said superglue and plastic cement.

That is also why you should do it...How else am I supposed to get super powers? Experimental lab explosions and beings from outer space are the leading causes to the creation of superheroes!


Seriously that crossed my mind as well, I am no chemist but I doubt that reaction would take place. I mean your not supposed to inhale it anyways etc. But for simplicity, I am going to pin stuff, been green stuffing with some glue as well and found it to not be as permanent as I would like. I think the green stuff just makes sure it fits surface to surface really. I am sure in the short run the OP's method works fine. Lasts longer than good fitting pieces and glue? Dunno. He just stated it dries and holds faster. But it holds!

Well I believe plastic glue doesn't do a lot here,but white glue does hold the two parts together until super glue dries and holds permanently(well at least for a long time until I drop the model)