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After seeing this -

http://www.thearmypainter.com/gallery_presentation.php?GalleryId=61&Gallery=Dragon%20Red:%20Blood%20Angel

I started wondering if this method could be a good way to speed up the first stages of painting of a blood angel army.

I want to be clear, I have pretty high standards, and I don't do tabletop, ever, even on baseline troops. If you check the link in my sig, you can see the standard I always work at and try to top. It's because I'm insane and I like to make my projects impossible to finish.

I wanted to know, if after a model was dipped, is there any difficulty in continuing painting and layering? Is the dip paint resistant? Does it leave a sheen, if so, will a matte coat take care of it? How random is the result.

Would love to hear experiences from you guys, thanks in advance!

they recommend matt coating on the tutorial.
I would say if you did paint and add a rudamentry highlight before dipping the results would be better than the standard dip.

I would be looking to do a significant amount of extra layers post dip, at least 3 on all surfaces. I'm just wondering if the dip causes problems if you want to continue on painting to display standards post dip you know?

Also wondering about the results in general with army painter products specifically too, as I have never tried anything dip related.

ahhh ok got not experience with the product specificly. I dipped my deathwing in miniwax is my limited experience. Came out great though by the way.

Hey up mate,
I swear by army painter products now. Like yourself i like to add layers and highlights, ive cut down from around 5 stages of layering and highlighting and cut it down to about 3 with the dip method. I managed to paint 10 flesh tearers and a kit bash seth fully in around 2-3hrs! They also produce a red spray. which acts as a primer and a basecoat called dragon red i think... no more need for black primer! They do a pure red if your doing the 90s bright blood angels to.
The dips come in 3 tones, light, strong and dark. I went for dark tone to make the flesh tearers look more menacing. ( you may want to try strong tone for BA ) You can literally paint your model fully then use quickshade as you would a wash. This is what i do, i dont dip but brush on, less waste and a more even coverage. It dries to a very high gloss finish, but this is easily remedied with anti shine matt varnish which army painter also produce.

You might want to base your models after dipping your models due to the wash somtimes pooling in detailed areas on the base, but you can avoid this if you brush on. I gave my bases a thin coat of strong tone anyway to define the trench bases ive made. But it could detract detail from some bases.

Army painter has great customer service to, so if you have any problems they are more than happy to help!

Anything else you need to know, drop me a line!

Hope this helps mate!

Liam

The dip leaves a glossy surface that does not take paint very well. I have tried it for the sake of knowing if it can be done, but I soon realized that it was not worth it. As a rule of thumb, I try to not paint anything after dipping as it kind of takes away the point of dipping to begin with (that is uniform and smooth overall shading).

What you see next have all been given a coat of Army Painter Strong Tone and no details except eyes have been painted afterwards:













Legion of the Damned (wip1)
Legion of the Damned (wip2)
Nurgle Daemonic Legion
Ogryns
Dryads
Orc Skeletons
Ammo Runtz

Those look pretty awesome lol, not gonna lie. I will do some experiements with degrees of painting and dip them to see where the ideal middle ground lies I think...