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After getting bored with Space Wolves I decided to move onto something alittle more different.

This is the result













and a few WIP of some Ork Boyz









and a Runtherd with his whiny grots that so far only have their skin painted.



What does Dakka think?

finish yer bases, then they will look good for tabletop

thats the one thing I hate doing, I don't have proper basing materials (just some sand I got from outside) and that suuucks >_< and does not look good at all.

Nice orks.

Flesh tone on the nobz is great. the boyz look different, but I know you gotta paint a lot more boyz!

keep up the good work, you'll have a tide in no time!

Looking good! Suggestion with that sand, mix it with one of your brown paints to get a kinda gritty sand mess of sticky stuff, then paint that on the bases, you can always do that for now and base them later. I have used the trick mainly on my tank tracks/bike wheels, but I have also used it to quick base a few of my Chaos Marines.

s.j.mccartney wrote:Nice orks.

Flesh tone on the nobz is great. the boyz look different, but I know you gotta paint a lot more boyz!

keep up the good work, you'll have a tide in no time!

The Boys I did alittle differently as I was trying to make their skin brighter...
I used an Old school green ink from an old old citadel paint line. and did alot of heavy dry brushing.

The Nobz on the other hand are just Goblin Green with a heavy wash of Thraka green and then Goblin Green and Snotgreen dry brushed over it.

AlexAwesome wrote:thats the one thing I hate doing, I don't have proper basing materials (just some sand I got from outside) and that suuucks >_< and does not look good at all.

Use the sand! then paint it scorched brown, drybrush with bubonic brown, then a light bleached bone on top, maybe add a few sprigs of staic grass, would look money imo.

@Yokoyomama: Pics or it didn't happen! I say that cause if I like the pics I have a basing solution for my CSM!

Lovely looking orks you got there.

AlexAwesome wrote:thats the one thing I hate doing, I don't have proper basing materials (just some sand I got from outside) and that suuucks >_< and does not look good at all.

It's stupid easy to get good basing. Just get some basing grit from Galeforce 9 or any really fine gravel type stuff from a hobby shop or model train store. Get PVA glue (essentially a white glue, similar to Elmer's but MUCH stronger once it dries) and glue the sand to the base. If the model has already been painted, wash the sand heavily with black wash. If the model hasn't been painted, spray paint the gravel when the model is spray primed too. Now just paint the sand brown or grey, then highlight with a lighter shade of either color. Once the wash or spraypaint is dry, it literally takes less than 5 minutes to do this. Really, your Orks look okay now, but once the models are well based they'll look fantastic. Never, ever underestimate how much a simple basing job can do.

thegrav wrote:@Yokoyomama: Pics or it didn't happen! I say that cause if I like the pics I have a basing solution for my CSM!

Do you want just a finished photo? or a WIP of how its done?

That is beautiful, do you have WIP? I like btw! I think you may be responsible for my CSM basing sir!

yokoyomama wrote:

AlexAwesome wrote:thats the one thing I hate doing, I don't have proper basing materials (just some sand I got from outside) and that suuucks >_< and does not look good at all.

Use the sand! then paint it scorched brown, drybrush with bubonic brown, then a light bleached bone on top, maybe add a few sprigs of staic grass, would look money imo.

I suck at making bases too. So bad that I'd probally screw up the model too. Very nice orks though. I do think though that you should have left off the shield on the rocket, it just looks awkward By the way, Is the kombi weapon on the first guy made of a slugga? Its brilliantly done to become a shoota.
@YokoYoMama- Are you the guy who painted to ork Looted tank in the gallery? Becuase that thing looks amazing.

Yes that is my looted tank, thanks! As far as a WIP for the bases I mean, its pretty simple.

1.Apply sand with PVA glue
2.Paint the sand generously with Scorched brown to cover all the sand
3.Drybrush Bubonic Brown
4.Drybrush some Bleached Bone, not too much to where you cover all of the bubonic brown
5.Pick out some spots you want some grass patches and PVA glue some static grass

If you need a WIP for this, it wouldn't be a problem to get you one. Lemme know if this helps

Good Stuff

@yokoyomama: I am gonna do this in a few days so I can post my WIP or step by if too! Thanks for the tip btw.

Use KITTY LITTER, it is a life saver. It is a million times cheaper than hobby sand.

Also... Um go to your local rock/gravel supply store and get free sand samples.

I just go to a craft store and buy a nice size bag of sand for $.99, and Ive done two 2,000 point armies and haven't even dented it. Thats as cheap as it gets right there. Too bad citadel charges you $9.00 for some static grass, lol.

cormz wrote:Use KITTY LITTER, it is a life saver. It is a million times cheaper than hobby sand.

Yeh but kitty litter is like huge chunks and has blue stuff in it...

Jollydevil wrote:

cormz wrote:Use KITTY LITTER, it is a life saver. It is a million times cheaper than hobby sand.

Yeh but kitty litter is like huge chunks and has blue stuff in it...

Then tell everyone they're on a strange planet where the rocks are blue....

S_P

Heres my replacement for sand, SUGAR!

Seriously, I water down some elmers glue and paint it on the base, then just pour the sugar on the base, and shake off the excess as always. Then let the glue dry for about 10 minutes, and then I pray paint the base. Its rock hard and not sticky. Works like a charm, and everyone has sugar, not to mention its the perfect size

Personally, I don't use Elmer's (white / craft) glue when basing my models. I find that it's too easy for the sand to peel off if someone handles the model a bit too roughly.

It's a more expensive option, but I use superglue. Some sand & some superglue, and that base is set!

Eric

I never thought of using sugar before, although its a bit small for my bases I can find plenty of ways to use it.

You can also use table salt. For either option, I would highly recommend coating with a matte finish before you put a wash on them, though!

Although now that I think about it, I wonder how it would look to add sugar or salt to pva glue on a base, then let it dry overnight and soak in warm water the next day.

Back on subject:

Alex, I think you're running into the same problem that I have with reds, browns, and yellows wanting to be really thin and show the black through as kinda splotchy. I would try adding another coat of those.

Your models look great though, and you'll only get better as you practice more. You obviously have some very good brush control based on some of your detail work. Your checks are VERY nicely done, I'm jealous. Mine always end up looking like white splotches. =-)

MagickalMemories wrote:Personally, I don't use Elmer's (white / craft) glue when basing my models. I find that it's too easy for the sand to peel off if someone handles the model a bit too roughly.

It's a more expensive option, but I use superglue. Some sand & some superglue, and that base is set!

Eric

That just means your doing it wrong then. All the bases Ive based, using watered down elmers glue, and never once have I had a problem with it peeling off. If it peels then its too thick, seriously water it down and it sticks like crazy

yokoyomama wrote:I never thought of using sugar before, although its a bit small for my bases I can find plenty of ways to use it.

Yup its pretty good for all kinds of things. But dont get it too saturated with glue, or itll start to dissolve and then your left with a really sticky mess, that seriously takes a week or longer to dry hard. Like stated, I just mix about 50/50 water and elmers glue, and then brush it on the base not to thick. Make sure theres some there to catch the sugar and thats it, you should still see the base showing through the glue before sugaring. Then just cover it with the sugar, and knock it off. Let it dry about 10 minutes and then spray paint the base. That makes it rock hard and nothing falls off. Pretty nice look too.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Heffling wrote:You can also use table salt. For either option, I would highly recommend coating with a matte finish before you put a wash on them, though!

Although now that I think about it, I wonder how it would look to add sugar or salt to pva glue on a base, then let it dry overnight and soak in warm water the next day.

Back on subject:

Alex, I think you're running into the same problem that I have with reds, browns, and yellows wanting to be really thin and show the black through as kinda splotchy. I would try adding another coat of those.

Your models look great though, and you'll only get better as you practice more. You obviously have some very good brush control based on some of your detail work. Your checks are VERY nicely done, I'm jealous. Mine always end up looking like white splotches. =-)

Thats a good question. Ive never let it dry that long and then soaked it. I can tell you if it gets to wet, the stuff dissolves. It takes forever to dry, BUT I have to say the base I tested that on, it looks pretty cool after it dries. Looks like snow for sure, but again who wants to wait a week for it to dry?

I've been modeling for a LONG time. I've tried countless recipies with white glue. I am not doing it wrong. I'm refusing to settle for a lesser method.
It is inferior.
Know what happens if you use white glue on a base with sand, then put a wash on it without sealing it with gloss or matte sealer first? The glue liquifies again, while you're painting it.
No, thanks. I will stick with my super glue. Once that stuff dries, it's ON THERE.

Eric

Superglue-ing your bases just sounds like a mess, lol. PVA glue FTW.

Never been a mess for me.

Apply glue carefully (like you would with Elmers).
Dip base in sand.
Shake off excess.
Wait for it to dry.*

Paint & add static grass, & you're done.

*A shot of accellerator reduces drying time, as you'd expect.

Eric