Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

jabbakahut wrote:

JOHIRA wrote:Something I was wondering about recently, as I am not the best sculptor but I recently discovered Blender, an open-source free 3D image maker.

How difficult would it be to build a 3D vehicle or robot let's say in the computer, separate out its bits like a model, send the file off to a rapid-prototyping service to make the master sprue, and then cast resin copies from that master? I'm sure each of those steps need a bit of practice, but it would seem to me there is the capability to have completely fan-based modeling out there. Open-source model kits, if you will.

No, way too expensive. Better off spending a couple hundred on misc kits and bash together what you want.

Actually, this is somewhat similar to what I did to make my Necron Pylon. I designed everything in a CAD/CAM program, in little bits, and created it on a CNC mill, and assembled it, done. That said, I had FREE access to the machines, so all I had to do was pay for (fairly cheap) material...getting a company to do it will cost you a LOT more...

The Grundel wrote:Very informative thread! Thank you everybody for contributing.

So if I am casting 150 torsos and heads for my IG army which material am I going to want to use for the mold?

A silicon rtv rubber. Go with a more flexible kind (there are a variety of these rubbers. Some are more flexible, some are less.).

Use talc for your release agent (very cheap and it works brilliantly.)

I use a 4PU poly resin for my castings, and I tend to get around 100 casts per mold (but I'm not exactly gentle with them. I've known people who can get 150+ casts out of their molds).

^ Thanks for the info!

Where do you get your 4PU poly resin from?

I use a company called 'Barnes', but they're local to Oz. Used by many of our Pro SFX people (we still have physical modelmakers - not just CGI pixelpushers).

I'm sure there are suppliers of this stuff in the US (different names, but the rubber will still be a rtv (as it's a Room Temperature Vulcanising rubber). I don't know any by name, as I don't need to ship this stuff internationally.

I think 'Smooth-on' is what some Americans I know use. Try here: http://www.smooth-on.com/pages.php?pID=104

I have friends in the local SFX crowd, and they put me onto these guys (Barnes).

Intresting, very interesting

I use Smooth-On for my resin/rtv.
For the mold, Mold Max 30 would work best.
For the resin, smooth cast 320 or 300.

Thanks for all the info!

How much should I be buying? I'm going to need to make seriously 100 torsos and heads.

Trial size should be more than enough. With any luck, the resin will run out just as you finish the project. The next step up is the gallon set & you'll never go thru all of that just casting torsos. Resin does go bad (any where from 2-6 months from when the jug is first opened, depends on how much moisture gets into the jug) so your better off under buying for a first project.

Just chucking this in here, re: the earlier forgeworld mold discussion.

Gargantuan Squiggoths are practically cast all in one piece. The body and head are separate, but the body's mold lines indicate something much more complex than a simple two-part mold at work in creating it.

jamsessionein wrote:Just chucking this in here, re: the earlier forgeworld mold discussion.

Gargantuan Squiggoths are practically cast all in one piece. The body and head are separate, but the body's mold lines indicate something much more complex than a simple two-part mold at work in creating it.

It prolly varies kit by kit, and part by part, I was putting together a vanquisher turret today, that only seems to have a mold line across the bottom on the turret block and barrel parts , so that's looking like a one piece, with a slit for removal, others will be two, and others three and more.

Also, to further the view that resin (or fw molds) are more detailed than the standard gw plastic, check out the head on the left:

No, we said that they CAN match plastics detail for detail. There will obviously be times that some won't make the same grade (and I lump FW in this group).

A lot depends on the skills of the sculptor and caster. Same as with plastics.

Interesting.