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GW’s plastic kits are pretty good. They can do some pretty thick casting, and I’ve never really noticed things like sink marks.

That said, I will indulge in a multimedia approach. I’ve built Devilfish/Hammerheads with the resin extras. The lightness of the resin is a plus when combining with plastic. Some plastic/metal combos can be rather tough, and I’d rather not use epoxy if I don’t have to.

It helped building scale aircraft for many years. I probably have a hundred “real” aircraft kits that I haven’t touched in 5 years, due to the GW bug.

ZF-

I like metals for one main reason. They are HEAVIER than plastics.

I don't know what it is, but plastic models just feel flimsy to me (it might have something to do with the fact that I have been playing sisters of battle for the better part of the last decade, but whatever).

I don't really mind the fewer poses (makes batch painting that much easier), or pinning (got a dremel for that one) that metals give. I just like how the models feel in my hands when I am playing with them.

If they could somehow make plastic minis weigh a bunch more, I don't think I would care at all which medium the models were in.

my $0.02 USD
BLARGAG!!!

I prefer plastics when I buy NEW, since they are easier to convert and put together.

I prefer metals when I buy USED on the secondary market, because they are much easier to strip and I'm less likely to deal with idiotic hack jobs from the previous owner.

halo3uber wrote:I'm going to go ahead and say plastic is better, for one, it's easier to glue plus plastics sets are cheaper.

But if its not particularly cheaper, which way do you swing? For instance the Goldswords are only pennies cheaper than the old metals, and actually more expensive than pretty much any generic Landsknechts with 2-handed swords in the same scale from other manufacturers (such as Wargames Factory). Multi-part expensive plastics at £2.50 each vs 1-piece metals at around £1 - £1.50 each? You've got maybe 40 models to do for the tabletop, 30 of which will be in rear ranks of a square-ish unit? How do you jump?

The generic assumption that "plastic is better because plastic is cheaper than metal" doesn't hold good any more with GW plastics. Not so much with recent GW price rises and recent non-GW price falls/static prices.

Soooo many conversion possibilities with plastics...easier to convert, etc....

Zad Fnark wrote:GW’s plastic kits are pretty good. They can do some pretty thick casting, and I’ve never really noticed things like sink marks...

Basically in plastic injection molding you try to keep a constant cross section on all the parts you will be making in one press. Any place where the plastic is thicker than this basic cross section will not pack out as fully during the press and you will get sink marks. I think I've seen sink marks on just about every vehicle kit GW produces, I can't remember any on infantry though.

Remember some of the old plastic kits for Warhammer which were just repeats of the same model. GW plastics have certainly evolved since then, but currently I like a mixture of the two.

Plastic, cos GW supergloo is crap as are all the others!! And you have to clip off all the little string bits on maetal models - and you never quite get all of them...

Blah all I have is super glue right now and I need to finish a new assault squad and a new tactical squad I recently aquired and trust me, it's much harder to use superl glue on plastic. I'm also making a metal model or 20 tonight and it works almost as bad on metal as on plastic. Any tips on how to make the super glue bond better or how to get it to work well on plastic?





-Orkishly

I prefer metal. The details are sharper and I think metal paints better.

If you don't include conversion... I'd go w/ Resin hands down. Crisp details make it a winner.

Love the old Ilyad games stuff.