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Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

NOOOOOOOO!!!!!!

Nail polish remover will melt your minis into slag!!!!!

use simple green or even brake fliud on plastic, nail polish remover is for metal figures only!!!!!

DONT DOOO IIIITTTTTT!!

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in gb
Thunderhawk Pilot Dropping From Orbit






London, England

Some nail polish remover WILL still melt plastic so please test it on a piece of sprue first. As for the glue I found with the stuff I used that it did weaken the bond a little so just be careful when scrubbing them.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/08/26 21:37:00



No trees were hurt in the making of this sig, however many electrons were disturbed.
 
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block






BLACKHAND wrote:NOOOOOOOO!!!!!!

Nail polish remover will melt your minis into slag!!!!!

use simple green or even brake fliud on plastic, nail polish remover is for metal figures only!!!!!

DONT DOOO IIIITTTTTT!!


This is why I bought acetone free, and I plan on testing it on some sprue prior to my actual minis


Automatically Appended Next Post:
well... the bottle DOES say its harmful to plastics, so we will see exactly what that means in a while when I check on the piece of sprue. Does anyone know where I can get this simple green stuff? Its a cleaner, so I was thinking maybe local grocery store?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/08/26 22:10:56


 
   
Made in gb
Thunderhawk Pilot Dropping From Orbit






London, England

Its a heavy degreaser, and should be available from most big supermarkets out there. Remember it takes a little longer but the fact that your mini doesn't look like you just baked him in a 200 degree oven helps to balance that fact out.


No trees were hurt in the making of this sig, however many electrons were disturbed.
 
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block






you were right, after about an hour in the tub I could make imprints in the sprue with my fingernail, and it felt like it was rubberizing. I have since poured it back into the container, and will be returning it soon
   
Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

Sorry bud , acetone free was a good plan and I recognize you did your homework

Honestly though Simple Green is pretty simple and not too harsh so is safer to use.

Good luck returning the polish remover!

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block






Its all good, my mom needs some anyway, so she gave me $2.50 and im even again! i will get some simple green at vons or somewhere, and will avoid painting those minis in the meantime. or maybe i will practice on them, since i will be stripping them anyway...
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block






I decided that I didn't like the name Storm Lords as it sounds too chaos-y and uncontrolled, so I decided to come full circle and name them the Solar Falcons.
   
Made in us
Stalwart Veteran Guard Sergeant






Hahaha Solar falcons sound like a win to me reminds of some old Si-Fi serials from the 50's

mwnciboo said 40K Tours just because the Galaxy's Burning doesn't mean you can't enjoy the heat

whalemusic360 wrote:Yeah, I got lost too. When I think tony, I literally think of that nid as you.
 
   
Made in us
Beast of Nurgle






Eagle/Hawk/Falcon Guard?

You are my Unbroken Blades. You are my Death Guard.
Nurgle Daemons: 2,000 points
Death Guard: 8,000
World Eaters: 3,500
Khorne Daemons: 2,000
If you couldn't tell, I'm a fan of Chaos.
Trollbloods: 25 Points
 
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block






After about 4 hours, which is an inordinant amount of time to spend on a single trooper, i finally finished a single space marine Unfortunately for the color scheme, I HATE IT. first of all, trying to paint on the blue while avoiding parts that should remain black is really obnoxious. Also, it looks really drab and boring in my opinion. It doesn't help that I tried to make a wash by diluting paint (I read that a 1:10 ratio of paint to water would thin it sufficiently, but I think you must need some thinning agent to get a good flow), which caused the watery paint to just sit on the model in flat places, creating a dirty worn look that I despise. In fact, it looks more like I didn't do enough coats of blue (I did 2).

sorry about the abysmal picture quality.




Instead, I think I will go for the Raven Gaurd's clean black look, which will be easier to paint and organize with proper squad/chapter markings. Also, they are much cooler. Tommorrow I am off to get a few paints, and soon I will have simple green to strip off the overprimed models and this painted one.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2010/08/29 00:06:44


 
   
Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator





North Carolina

How about Talons of the Emperor or Talons of iron faith

Imperial Crusaders: 7,500 points



“Brothers, what we do on the battlefield is not just for our chapter but, for the entire Imperium. Every Xenos that falls by our hands will be a testament to our unwavering duty to the Emperor. Every heretic that is crushed under our feet will be a testament to our undying loyalty to the citizens of Imperial Space. We will baptize ourselves in fire and emerge as the most steadfast defenders of humanity.” - qoute from my own homegrown chapter




 
   
Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

Sorry you had to change colour schemes, at least you found out you didn't like it now not after a tac squad or two!

I used to try the paint wash trick it works on gravel covered bases but not on much else, I hate to plug GW but their washes seem to do the trick.

The good thing about a black colour scheme is that they are basically primed models and are easy to repaint in a different scheme. They then have a good resale value if you want to change armies later and need to sell em for funds.

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block






mmm that reminds me I wanted to try some textured bases. everyone is saying "PVA Glue", but is that just glorified elmers glue? and i already primed and glued the model to the base, so how should I go about covering the little rectangle they are attached to on the bottom. Im worried that repriming them will erase all the detail in the legs, just to get a pretty base.

Also, if someone could point me towards a good tutorial on highlighting black minis, that would be great. Im afraid the raven guard might be quite boring withouth some highlights, as you cant really wash black...

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/08/29 16:07:52


 
   
Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

I have heard some people use ink to precolour their gravel and sand before glueing it on.

How I do it is -
1 paint the base brown.
2 brush on glue carefully, it dries clear so base colour will show through.
3 dip in sand and crushed kitty litter, let it dry
4 put a decent amount of brown wash on a medium brush and (carefully) brush it on the sand and kitty litter, capillary action will draw the wash off the brush and distribute it around the base and give it a natural shading.
5 I usually follow it up with a drybrush of calthan brown and a mix of calthan brown and lyandan darksun, followed with another wash.

Whew sorry, it looks like a lot more effort when I see it written up but if you are careful you won't wreck your paint job.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/08/29 20:31:50


 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block






Thanks, those steps sound pretty easy, just have to make sure not to glue sand to the models legs. this could actually work well, as I'm sure that enormous demi-humans wearing hulking coffins of steel just might sink into the ground a bit when they walk, and the little bits of sand making craters around marines feet could look cool.

Anyway, here is the new paint scheme (of which I now have all the paint colors I need! no excuse not to start working!):

Pretty standard Raven Guard Marine


and Termie. I like the look of the extra reds, especially under the gold shoulder emblem.

And the Termie, which I put in more red cuz I think it looks very bold and imposing, just the way I like my elites.



Anyone have success with a white sharpie on black paint? I am worried that my gakky brush control won't be capable of doing justice to the white raven emblem.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2010/08/30 01:13:37


 
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block






Alright, school started, and I've been wading through a swamp of homework. Here is the Raven Guard marine I painted before break ended. I am quite happy with it, and I think If I painted all the units to this standard (as I am sure my highlighting technique will improve) It would be acceptable without draining all my free time. Again, Sorry about the sloppy pic.





And here is a piece of terrain I am really excited about. The gas barrel will have sludge dripping down from that hole in the side (elmers glue sculpting, anyone?). I just need to save up used tea bags for those leaves to put on the ground, as that's the only way I can Do the terrain, other than ripping it up and using my texture spray (which I forgot. I am really tempted to rip it up though, the spray looks amazing).





I have a long weekend coming up, and plan to do 2 marines and some work on the pump station.
   
Made in us
Sureshot Kroot Hunter





the terrain looks nice. You should be able to make sludge from hot glue pretty well as it will drip but also hardens in about 5 seconds.
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block






Thanks! I dont actually have a hot glue gun, I was refering to dripping normal elmers glue down the side and letting that harden before priming.
   
Made in us
Sureshot Kroot Hunter





Maybe if you affixed something for the glue to hang on like a little tooth pick or strings hanging from the bottom of the pipe you could get the clue to dry into dripping strands. I think without something for the elmers glue to stick to it wont hold the drip forms, its just to liquidy.
   
Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

I have heard using nylon or thread for the glue to run down is one way to go, lets you be more precise

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/09/03 23:52:49


 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block






I dont need it hanging off the side, just running down the side. It looks like its partially dried up, but the sludge is still caked onto the side.
   
 
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