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Article Discussion: Zenithal Airbrushing, OSL and Snow and Ice Tutorial, subject - Grey Knight  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Made in ca
[DCM]
Acolyte of Goodwin






Sunny SoCal

lol tell Yakface!

   
Made in us
Annoyed Blood Angel Devastator





Minnesota, USA

I have had the Typo Fixed, SUCCESS!

3rd Edition Blood Angel player, brought back to the game...
2500 pts 
   
Made in ca
[DCM]
Acolyte of Goodwin






Sunny SoCal

Lol nice, thanks Pyro!


   
Made in us
Sack of Flesh & Bones





Woodbury, Minnesota

Very informative article; Due to various things in life getting in the way (some good, some bad) I've been away from 40k and I come back to my favorite group getting a new codex and some awesome painting to show them off.

Kudos to you!




Time flies like an arrow, fruit flies like a banana - Groucho Marx 
   
Made in ca
[DCM]
Acolyte of Goodwin






Sunny SoCal

I had a PM from MikeWars, who had a couple of good questions so I thought I would answer him here so everyone can see -

Questions from Mike -

Now I've clicked the links for the air brushes and compressor here's my questions regarding those:
The two airbrushes, is the hose interchangeable?
Specifically, they are the same AB with a different logo, so yes. In general with most ABs the answer is also yes, but, you can save yourself a lot of trouble by putting a quick-connect kit on everything, that way you know it will all play well together.

Which one is the one you used for the actually painting of your modelling? (is there a difference in the size of the spray from the nozzle)
The Master G44 is the one i use most of the time.

I can't find that same compressor on the website what is a comparable one?
Any dual pump, oil-less compressor with a tank should be comparable. I would just search those criteria and check reviews. Eggroll and Gitsplitta and Whalemusic360 seem to be looking into new compressors, so you could ask them where they are at lately. The only thing I would recommend is getting an AB compressor, not a garage one. Just for the noise alone it is worth it IMO, although technically both will do the same job in general.

Now for the painting:
The wash.. how do you do a successful wash? I have never been able to master that
Depends what you mean by wash... For acrylic washes, generally speaking, you can use thinned wash from the pot and push it into the recesses. If you are having trouble getting the results you want, I would advise you to thin the washes and do multiple layers, and be patient. The ugliest results are when it goes on too thick and makes things look chunky instead of adding subtlety.

Alternatively, you can satin seal your miniatures at the end, and then use oil paints thinned with mineral spirits. These are the ultimate form of wash IMO, but require more prep and drying time. Search for tutorials on this, there are some here on Dakka from SilverMK2 and Nucleolosaur that are worth checking out, and a google search will yield plenty of results. Number 1 recommend to check out is probably Massive Voodoo's demo.


I just bought the 000 brush as you said, is that also what you use for the highlights like on the letters?
Yes. If letters give you trouble in general, you could just write letters on with a Sakura Pigma Micron pen which makes it much easier.

So when I get back to the States I want to start working on my Flesh Tearers.
So here is my question in regards to that. The bottom half of them is red and the upper half (roughly) is black. How can you apply this method of airbrushing to that?

I would leave the helmets, backpacks and shoulderpads off (the black parts of the armour) and use the AB process on the torso and arms. you could have 1 set of head, shoulders and backpack you blue-tack on to the red bodies repeatedly re-using them, so that you have the proper objects creating shadows. Likewise do the reverse for the black, use the process on the shoulders, head and backpack, and have a generic body you stick them on over and over. Once you finish both halves, done in the same way but reversed, you can assemble the AB'd pieces together and get a smooth effect!

Thanks soooo much for answering my newbie obvious questions!
Mike

No problem dude, they were pretty good questions!

   
Made in us
Adolescent Youth with Potential






Its truly beautiful.

 
   
Made in us
Bounding Assault Marine





Minnesota

This article makes me reach for my wallet and the airbrush link everytime I see it...I love it. Great job and the finished product looks fantastic

Warhammer, one of a few games where Yahtzee is possible and not always a good thing


GENERATION 9: The first time you see this, copy and paste it into your sig and add 1 to the number after generation. Consider it a social experiment.

Armys:
-Fast'N'Slow Bikers- (5 wins, 1 draw, 2 losses)

 
   
Made in fi
Courageous Silver Helm




Amsterdam

The main reason I bought an airbrush is to do effects like this on an army scale, this tutorial is perfect for this purpose. Therefore much appreciated.

Sadly I have not managed to get a decent finish yet, but practice makes perfect.

Do you feel that a marine-type-model is a good practice model?

MakeHammer @ Twitter
My P&M Blog
Painted VC for sale
Painting for $ 
   
Made in us
Incorporating Wet-Blending





Great article.

And you don't need an airbrush to achieve zenithal effects! (:

WIth primers, you prime black normally, then spray gray primer (optional), then white primer. You can also spray white primer incompletely on a dark plastic miniature, but I wouldn't recommend this.

With drybrushing, you prime black normally, then drybrush grey, then drybrush white.

You can basecoat normally, but glazing works quite well.

And THANKS for the underside picture! Very confidence-building to this n00b!

Assume I wrote, "Yeah, good luck with that" at the end of my post.  
   
 
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